•F    TOO! 


GIFT  OF 


THE 

YOUNG  FOLKS'  LIBRARY 

FOR    SCHOOL    AND    HOME. 

EDITED   BY 

LARKIN  DUNTON,  LL.D., 

HKAD   MASTER  OF  THE   BOSTON   NORMAL  SCHOOL. 


VOLUME  IX. 


THE 

YOUNG  FOLKS  LIBRARY, 

Edited  by  LARKIN  DUNTON,  LL.D., 

HEAD  MASTER  OF  THE  BOSTON   NORMAL  SCHOOL. 

DESIGNED  to  supplement  the  ordinary  school  reading-books  with  valu- 
able practice  in  reading,  and  at  the  same  time  to  reenforce  the  instruc- 
tion in  special   lines   of  school  study  with    useful    information  and  cheicf 
selections  from  the  best  literature. 

Stories  of  Child  Life. 

Vol.  x.  -  Book  I.  — AT  HOME, 

Vol.  2.  -  Book  II.  — AT  PLAY. 

Vol.  3.  -  Book  III.  — IN  THE  COUNTRY. 

V01.  4.  -  Book  IV. —AT  SCHOOL. 

The  World  and  its  People. 

Vol.  5.  -  Book  I.  — FIRST  LESSONS. 

Vol.  6.  -  Book  II.  — GLIMPSES  OF  THE  WORLD. 

Vol.  7.  -  Book  III.  — OUR  OWN  COUNTRY. 

Vol.  8.  -  Book  IV.  — OUR  AMERICAN   NEIGHBORS. 

Vol.  9.  -  Book  V.  — MODERN  EUROPE. 

Vol.  10.  -  Book  VI.  — LIFE  IN  ASIA. 

Vol.  xi.     -        Book  VII.  — VIEWS  IN  AFRICA.    Part  One. 
Book  VII.— VIEWS  IN  AFRICA.     Part  Two. 
Book  VII.— VIEWS  IN  AFRICA.    Complete. 

Vol.   12.  Book  VIII.— AUSTRALIA    AND    THE    ISLANDS 

OF   THE    SE\. 


THE 


WORLD  AND  ITS  PEOPLE, 


BOOK  V. 
MODERN  EUROPE. 


BY 


FANNY   E.   COE. 


EDITED   BY 


LARKIN  DUNTON,  LL.D., 

HEAD   MASTER  OF  THE   BOSTON   NORMAL  SCHOOL. 


SILVER,  BURDETT   &   CO.,  PUBLISHERS, 
NEW  YORK  .  .  .  BOSTON  .  .  .  CHICAGO. 

189*. 


COPYRIGHT,  1892, 
BT  SILVER,   BURDETT  &  CO. 


Norfoooti 

].  S.  Gushing  &  Co.  —  Berwick  &  Smith. 
Boston,   Mass  ,   U.S.A. 


PUBLISHERS'  ANNOUNCEMENT. 


IT  is  now  conceded  by  all  educators  that  school  in- 
struction should  be  supplemented  by  reading  matter  suit- 
able for  use  by  the  pupil  both  in  the  school  and  in  the 
home.  Whoever  looks  for  such  reading,  however,  must 
be  struck  at  first  with  the  abundance  of  what  is  offered 
to  schools  and  parents,  and  then  with  its  lack  of  sys- 
tematic arrangement,  and  its  consequent  ill  adaptation  to 
the  needs  of  young  people. 

It  is  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  this  defect,  that 
the  publishers  have  decided  to  issue  a  series  of  volumes, 
under  the  general  title  of  the  YOUNG  FOLKS'  LIBRARY 
FOR  SCHOOL  AND  HOME. 

These  books  are  intended  to  meet  the  .  needs  of  all 
children  and  youth  of  school  age ;  from  those  who  have 
just  mastered  their  first  primer,  to  those  who  are  about 
to  finish  the  high  school  course.  Some  of  the  volumes 
will  supplement  the  ordinary  school  readers,  as  a  means 
of  teaching  reading;  some  will  reenforce  the  instruction 

in    geography,   history,   biography,   and    natural    science; 

5 

284378 


6',;  PUBLISKE?S    ANNOUNCEMENT. 

while  others  will  be  specially  designed  to  cultivate  a 
taste  for  good  literature.  All  will  serve  to  develop 
power  in  the  use  of  the  mother  tongue. 

The  matter  for  the  various  volumes  will  be  so  care- 
fully selected  and  so  judiciously  graded,,  that  the  various 
volumes  will  be  adapted  to  the  needs  and  capacities  of 
all  for  whom  they  are  designed;  while  their  literary 
merit,  it  is  hoped,  will  be  sufficient  to  make  them  de- 
serve a  place  upon  the  shelves  of  any  well  selected 
collection  of  juvenile  works. 

Each  volume  of  the  YOUNG  FOLKS'  LIBRARY  will  be 
prepared  by  some  one  of  our  ablest  writers  for  young 
people,  and  all  will  be  carefully  edited  by  Larkin  Dun- 
ton,  LL.D.,  Head  Master  of  the  Boston  Normal  School. 

The  publishers  intend  to  make  this  LIBRARY  at  once 
attractive  and  instructive ;  they  therefore  commend  these 
volumes,  with  confidence,  to  teachers,  parents,  .and  all 
others  who  are  charged  with  the  duty  of  directing  the 

education  of  the  young. 

SILVER,  BURDETT  &  CO, 


PREFACE. 


1  WROTE  to  the  author  of  this  volume  to  ask  what 
suggestions  she  had  to  offer  as  to  the  preface,  and 
received  the  following  reply :  — 

"One  of  the  most  interesting  incidents  connected 
with  my  writing  has  been  the  framing,  from  time  to 
time,  in  my  own  mind,  of  a  few  laws  or  canons  concern- 
ing geographical  writing.  One  of  the  articles  of  my 
creed  I  found  beautifully  phrased  in  the  preface  of  one 
of  F.  Hopkinson  Smith's  books.  It  was  all  the  truer  to 
me  because  I  had  recognized  its  truth  before  I  found  it 
so  aptly  expressed.  This  is  the  sentence  I  refer  to :  '  I 
will  tell  you  as  simply  as  I  can  something  of  the  groups 
who  looked  over  my  shoulder  while  I  worked,  and  who 
daily  formed  my  circle  of  acquaintance ;  merely  hinting 
to  you  as  delicately  as  possible  that  a  traveler,  even 
with  an  ordinary  pair  of  eyes  and  ears,  can  get  much 
nearer  to  the  heart  of  a  people  in  their  cafe's,  streets, 
and  markets,  than  in  their  museums,  galleries,  and 
palaces,  and  reminding  you  at  the  same  time  of  the 
old  adage  which  claims  that  a  live  gamin  is  better  than 
a  dead  king  for  all  the  practical  purposes  of  life.' 

"Now  I  believe  Modern  Europe  has  been  written 
according  to  this  principle.  We  have  dealt  more  with 

7 


8  PREFACE. 

ordinary  people  and  scenes  than  with  extraordinary. 
I  want  people  to  know  that  when  we  have  left  out 
some  great  cathedral  or  palace  it  was  not  through 
ignorance,  but  through  choice.  I  considered  the  leaning 
tower  of  Pisa  and  the  Amiens  Cathedral  not  so  worthy 
of  mention  as  an  old  shepherd  watching  his  dusty  sheep 
while  they  crop  their  scanty  meal  on  the  Campagna,  or 
a  lazy  Spanish  beggar  basking  in  the  sun." 

This  is  just  the  feature  of  the  book  that  I  wished 
the  author  to  make  prominent,  and  the  one  in  which 
I  think  she  has  been  successful.  What  the  children 
ought  to  see,  as  they  read  in  connection  with  their 
geographical  study,  is  Europe  as  it  *s,  and  the  people 
of  Europe  as  they  live.  Let  this  volume  be  read  with 
a  good  map  of  Europe  before  the  reader,  and  he  will  be 
helped  to  form  a  .vivid  picture  of  Europe  and  its  varied 
features,  including  the  inhabitants,  with  their  occupa- 
tions and  modes  of  living. 

THE  EDITOR. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I.  A  BIRD'S-EYE  VIEW  OF  EUROPE 13 

II.  PICTURES  OF  ENGLISH  LIFE 18 

III.  OVER  THE    BOKDEK 59 

IV.  WHERE  THE  SHAMROCK  GROWS 78 

V.  THE  SCANDINAVIAN  PENINSULA 92 

VI.  THE  LAND  OF  HANS  CHRISTIAN  ANDEKSKN      .     .  119 

VII.  THE  LAND  OF  THE  GLORIOUS  SUNSETS    ....  133 

VIII.  THE  LAND  OF  THE  WOODEN  SHOE 154 

IX.  THROUGH  RHINELAND 167 

X.  THREE  WEALTHY  CITIES  OF  GERMANY    ....  186 

XI.  WHAT  THE  DANUKE  SEES 197 

XII.  GERMAN  PEASANT  LIFE 213 

XIII.  AMONG  MOUNTAIN  PEAKS  AND  GLACIERS     .     .     .  225 

XIV.  A  STAY  IN  PARIS 249 

XV.  GLIMPSES  OF  PROVINCIAL  FRANCE 266 

XVI.  IN  SUNNY  SPAIN  AND  PORTUGAL 278 

XVII.  THE  TREASURE-HOUSE  OF  EUROPE 299 

XVIII.  THE  LAND  OF  THE  GLORIOUS  PAST 335 

XIX.  THE  STRANGER  IN  EUROPE 349 

XX.  FREE  FROM  THE  TURKISH  YOKE 357 

XXL  THE  LAND  OF  THE  CZAR 359 

9 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAGE 

SISTINE  MADONNA  ...         12 

WESTMINSTER  ABBEY 33 

SHAKESPEARE'S  BIRTHPLACE .     .     .     .  51 

GLENCOE .......  61 

ARMORY  AT  ABBOTSFORD .  68 

FINGAL'S  CAVE 77 

DUBLIN  UNIVERSITY .  88 

GIANT'S  CAUSEWAY ..........  90 

LAPP'S  HUT ....  112 

DUTCH  WINDMILL 136 

HEIDELBERG  CASTLE 175 

COLOGNE  CATHEDRAL 184 

STATUE  OF  FREDERICK  THE  GREAT 189 

WILLIAM  II 191 

BISMARCK 193 

KARL  AND  GRETCHEN 222 

MOUNTAIN  CLIMBING 232 

THE  MATTERHORN , 234 

LION  OF  LUZERNE 237 

MER  DE  GLACE 243 

DOME  OF  THE  HOTEL  DES  INVALIDES 260 

NOTRE  DAME 262 

WILLIAM  1 265 

GONDOLA  AND  GONDOLIER 309 

THE  COLISEUM 322 

MODERN  ATHENS 339 

DOGS  OF  CONSTANTINOPLE 352 

DERVISH 356 

THE  NEVSKOI  PROSPEKT 365 

THE  WINTER  PALACE 372 

THE  KREMLIN  ..... 379 

THE  HEIGHTS  OF  ALMA 388 

GROUP  OF  FINNS 393 

COSSACKS • .  395 

10 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


SSSTINE     MADONNA. 


MODERN  EUROPE. 


CHAPTER   I. 
A   BIRD'S-EYE   VIEW   OF   EUROPE. 

Of  the  five  continents,  Europe  is  the  smallest.  But 
it  is  the  leader  nevertheless.  It  is  the  wisest  continent ; 
for  it  is  sown  thickly  with  universities  and  colleges, 
where  learned  professors  either  direct  the  studies  of 
the  young  men  of  the  rising  generation  or  pursue  in 
solitude  their  own  studies  for  the  benefit  of  mankind. 

It  is  also  the  richest  continent.  Its  material  wealth, 
that  is,  its  wealth  in  the  products  of  the  animal,  vegeta- 
ble, and  mineral  kingdoms,  is  great.  Its  forests  of  ever- 
greens and  hard  wood  trees  cover  many  square  miles  of 
territory.  Grain  fields  stretch  in  a  belt  through  central 
Europe,  from  the  Ural  Mountains  on  the  east  to  the 
Atlantic  on  the  west.  The  olive,  mulberry,  and  chest- 
nut grow  at  the  south  with  many  tropical  fruit  trees. 
Beneath  the  soil,  each  country  finds  some  mineral  wealth 
to  be  thankful  for,  from  gold  and  silver  to  the  humbler 
but  more  useful  coal,  iron,  copper,  lead,  and  salt. 

Europe  is  rich  in  proud  arid  stately  cities,  in  hoary 
ruins,  and  in  museums  crowded  with  perfect  statues, 

13 


14  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

lovely  paintings,  and  relics  of  the  famous  men  and  t 
nations  of  the  past.  Perhaps  she  is  richest  of  all,  how- 
ever, in  her  people,  both  of  the  past  and  the  present. 
Here  have  lived  the  thinking  and  progressive  nations 
of  the  world.  It  has  been  said  that  the  history  of 
Europe  is  the  history  of  man. 

Let  us  look  carefully  at  this  continent  which  has 
been,  for  so  long,  the  home  of  the  leading  nations  of 
the  earth. 

The  continent  of  Europe  borders  on  the  Arctic  Ocean, 
the  Atlantic  Ocean,  and  those  inland  waters  separating 
it  from  Africa  and  Asia,  which  are  known  as  the  Medi- 
terranean Sea,  the  Black  Sea,  and  the  Caspian  Sea.  Of 
these  three  coasts  the  Arctic  is  the  shortest ;  while  that 
bordering  the  inland  seas  is  the  longest.  This  is  fortu- 
nate for  commerce,  as  less  of  the  seacoast  is  icebound 
during  the  winter  than  would  otherwise  be. 

The  coast  line  of  Europe  is  remarkably  irregular. 
The  Atlantic  coast  consists  of  lofty  promontories  and 
sand  hills,  against  which  the  stormy  waves  of  the 
Atlantic  are  forever  beating.  To  the  north  and  south 
are  many  large  peninsulas.  The  more  celebrated  pen- 
insulas are  the  southern  ones,  of  which  there  are  three 
extending  southward  into  the  Mediterranean.  They 
are  known  as  Spain,  Italy,  and  Greece. 

The  British  Isles  once  formed  a  part  of  the  mainland 
of  Europe,  but  ages  ago  the  separation  took  place  which 
left  England  an  island.  She  is  at  a  safe  distance  from 
her  enemies ;  but  not  too  far  away  to  prevent  her  from 
taking  part  in  European  affairs  whenever  she  is  so  dis- 
posed. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  15 

The  western  half  of  Europe  is  mountainous,  while 
the  eastern  half  is  very  low.  The  country  of  Russia 
occupies  the  whole  of  eastern  Europe,  and  consists  of  a 
great  plain  whose  chief  elevations  lie  in  the  latitude  of 
St.  Petersburg.  Here  is  the  low  divide  from  which  the 
plain  slopes  on  one  side  gently  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  on 
the  other  side,  even  more  gradually,  to  the  Black  and 
Caspian  Seas. 

The  chief  mountain  chain  of  Europe  is  the  Alps. 
All  the  other  ranges,  with  the  exception  of  the  Scandi- 
navian mountains  and  the  Pyrenees,  are  offshoots  from 
the  Alps.  The  main  chains  of  the  Alps  are  massed 
close  together  at  the  west,  but  they  separate  more  and 
more  as  they  approach  the  east.  All  the  mountain 
ranges  of  central  Europe  have  their  steepest  and  rocki- 
est sides  to  the  south. 

Europe  has  many  large  rivers.  Perhaps  the  most 
important  is  the  Danube,  which  has  recently  been 
greatly  improved.  Dangerous  passes  in  the  river's 
course  have  been  rendered  perfectly  safe,  and  the  sand 
bars  at  its  mouth  have  been  removed.  The  Danube  is 
used  for  navigation  by  Germany,  Austria,  Hungary. 
Turkey,  and  the  principalities  ;  and  forms  an  important 
link  in  the  connection  of  the  Baltic  and  the  Black  Seas. 

Other  large  rivers  of  Europe  have  been,  like  the 
Danube,  much  improved.  Their  lower  courses  have 
been  deepened,  and  sand  bars  at  their  mouths  have  been 
removed. 

The  lakes  of  Europe  occur  in  groups.  There  are 
three  principal  groups.  They  are  the  Alpine  lakes, 
the  Scandinavian  lakes,  and  the  lakes  of  Finland.  The 


16  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Alpine  lakes  are  the  best  known,  while  the  Finnish 
lakes  are  remarkable  for  their  number. 

Rivers  and  lakes  are  the  natural  means  by  which 
one  country  communicates  with  another.  There  are 
other  means  for  communication  made  by  man,  which 
are  called  artificial  means.  They  are  railroads,  canals, 
and  telegraphs.  Within  the  last  fifty  years  Europe  has 
been  covered  with  a  network  of  railroads,  the  meshes 
of  which  grow  closer  every  year  as  new  lines  are 
built. 

Germany,  Belgium,  and  France  are  as  closely  con- 
nected by  railroads  as  if  they  formed  one  country. 
Russia  has  fewer  railroads  ;  and  there  are  but  few  lines 
leading  into  Spain,  Italy,  and  Greece.  The  reason  for 
this,  in  the  case  of  Spain  and  Italy,  is  that  lofty  ranges 
of  mountains  form  their  northern  boundary.  The 
Turks  object  to  railroads ;  and,  as  all  lines  connecting 
Greece  with  the  rest  of  Europe  are  obliged  to  run 
through  Turkey,  Greece  has  very  little  land  communi- 
cation with  other  countries. 

Europe  has  fine  lines  of  telegraphs  reaching  to  the 
remotest  corners  of  the  globe.  There  are  at  least  a 
dozen  lines  across,  or  rather  beneath  the  Atlantic 
Ocean,  connecting  Europe  with  America.  England 
not  only  binds  the  Orkneys,  the  Shetlands,  and  other 
outlying  British  islands  to  herself  by  these  useful  wires, 
but  has  a  direct  line  across  two  continents  to  India. 
From  there  another  line  reaches  to  Australia.  Thanks 
to  the  telegraph  spanning  the  world,  the  great  British 
Empire,  though  widely  scattered  through  many  climes 
and  oceans,  is  really  united. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  17 

There  are  four  countries  on  our  own  continent.  They 
are  Canada,  the  United  States,  Mexico,  and  Central 
America.  It  is  very  easy  to  see  that  the  people  of 
Canada  and  the  United  States  resemble  each  other  in 
appearance,  language,  and  customs.  The  inhabitants  of 
Mexico  and  Central  America  are  very  different  from  the 
people  of  Canada  and  the  United  States ;  and,  at  the 
same  time,  they  are  very  much  like  each  other.  We 
may  say  then,  that  two  families  of  nations  live  in  North 
America,  —  one  at  the  north  and  one  at  the  south. 
The  northern  family  comprises  Canada  and  the  United 
States.  The  southern  family  consists  of  Mexico  and 
Central  America. 

In  Europe  there  are  three  main  families,  —  the  north- 
ern family,  the  southern  family,  and  the  eastern  family. 
Tlui  members  of  the  northern  family  are  England,  Nor- 
way, Sweden,  Denmark,  Holland,  Belgium,  Germany, 
Austria,  and  Switzerland,  The  people  of  this  family 
speak  languages  which  have  certain  resemblances. 
They  are  also  tall,  strong,  and  fair,  compared  with  the 
men  of  the  southern  family,  who  are  smaller  and  darker. 

The  nations  of  the  southern  family  are  France,  Spain, 
Portugal,  and  Italy. 

The  eastern  family  consists  of  Russia,  Servia,  Rou- 
mania,  and  Montenegro.  The  language  of  Russia  is  very 
different  from  that  of  western  Europe.  It  seems,  to  the 
northern  and  southern  families,  jaw-breaking ;  but  that 
is  only  because  they  were  not  brought  up  to  speak  it. 

In  addition  to  these  families  of  nations,  there  are  the 
Celts  in  Scotland  and  Ireland,  and  the  Greeks  in  the 
southeastern  corner  of  Europe. 


18  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

There  is  another  nation  in  Europe  which  we  must  cal\ 
the  stranger,  as  it  is  in  no  way  related  to  the  other  fam- 
ilies of  Europe.  All  its  kindred  nations  are  in  Asia. 
This  nation  is  Turkey.  It  has  no  right  to  stay  in 
Europe ;  its  natural  home  is  Asia ;  but,  owing  to  pecu- 
liar circumstances,  it  is  suffered  to  remain  where  it  is. 


CHAPTER  II. 

PICTURES   OF  ENGLISH  LIFE. 

Off  the  northwestern  coast  of  Europe  lies  a  group 
of  islands  which  form  the  kingdom  of  Great  Britain. 
The  two  largest  islands  are  known  as  the  islands  of 
Great  Britain  and  Ireland.  The  other  islands  are  much 
smaller.  They  are  scattered  along  the  coast  in  groups, 
and  probably  once  formed  part  of  Great  Britain  or 
Ireland. 

The  groups  to  the  north  are  the  Shetland  Islands,  the 
Orkney  Islands,  and  the  Hebrides.  To  the  south  are 
two  groups,  —  the  Scilly  Islands  off  the  Cornish  coast, 
and  the  Channel  Islands  near  the  northern  coast  of 
France.  Three  of  the  most  important  small  islands 
stand  alone.  They  are  the  Isle  of  Man,  Anglesea  Island, 
and  the  Isle  of  Wight. 

The  kingdom  of  Great  Britain,  though  separated  from 
the  mainland,  has  always  been  closely  connected  with 
European  affairs.  The  whole  area  of  the  kingdom  is  a 
little  less  than  that  of  the  states  of  Illinois,  Indiana, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  19 

and  West  Virginia ;  yet  such  is  the  natural  force  and 
enterprise  of  the  British  people  that  they  are  to-day 
the  richest  and  most  powerful  nation  on  the  face  of  the 
globe.  They  control  immense  commercial  and  manu- 
facturing interests,  and  their  voice,  when  raised  in  the 
councils  of  nations,  is  generally  listened  to  with  def- 
erence. Great  Britain  has  men,  ships,  and,  above  all, 
millions  of  money  to  support  her  position.  With  all 
this  great  power,  she  might  have  made  herself  a  despot 
or  a  tyrant  in  Europe.  It  is  but  just  to  say,  however, 
that,  though  sometimes  her  policy  is  selfish,  on  the 
whole  her  conduct  has  been  just  and  honorable  in  the 
causes  she  has  supported. 

The  Island  of  Great  Britain  includes  England,  Scot- 
land, and  Wales.  England  is  the  most  important  of 
these  divisions.  It  contains  London^  the  capital  of  the 
British  Empire,  and  the  great  city  of  Liverpool. 

Liverpool  is  one  of  the  greatest  seaports  in  the  world. 
Its  chief  trading  place  is  America.  It  has  many  lines 
of  steamers  to  New  York,  as  well  as  lines  to  Halifax, 
Boston,  Philadelphia,  and  New  Orleans.  More  ships 
enter  its  harbor  yearly  than  any  other  port  in  the 
world.  It  is  a  wonderful  sight  that  meets  the  eye  as 
one  gazes  down  the  muddy  river  Mersey,  on  whose 
eastern  shore  Liverpool  is  built,  and  sees  the  forests  of 
masts  and  funnels,  and  the  fluttering  army  of  gay  flags 
from  nearly  all  the  nations  on  the  face  of  the  globe. 

The  Mersey  is  a  tidal  river.  It  is  gradually  filling  up 
with  sand ;  and  it  is  believed  that  sometime  the  harbor 
of  Liverpool  may  become  as  choked  and  worthless  as 
the  mouth  of  the  river  Dee  to  the  south  of  it. 


20  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

But  meanwhile  Liverpool  flourishes.  It  has  miles 
and  miles  of  fine  docks  faced  with  stone.  To  walk 
around  them  would  take  a  whole  day.  They  enclose 
three  hundred  and  forty  acres  of  water,  where  many 
hundreds  of  ships  are  floating.  There  are  similar  docks 
on  the  opposite  shore  of  the  Mersey. 

What  has  Liverpool  in  her  monstrous  warehouses 
with  which  to  fill  these  ships  ?  Manufacturing  cities  to 
the  east  send  her  their  iron  and  steel  goods  ;  while  coal 
and  salt  can  always  be  obtained  from  the  counties  to 
the  south  and  southwest.  From  America,  Liverpool 
obtains  cotton,  which  is  manufactured  into  clothing  for 
the  English  people  ;  grains  and  live  stock,  which  are 
needed  for  food ;  and  tobacco,  which  is  clearly  an  arti- 
cle of  luxury. 

Liverpool  has  a  few  interesting  old  buildings ;  but  a 
spirit  of  business  and  activity  pervades  the  city,  which 
is  more  like  that  of  the  new  world  than  the  old.  So 
the  American  traveler  rarely  stays  long  in  Liverpool, 
but  hastens  on  to  London. 

The  English  cars  are  very  different  from  ours.  To 
begin  with,  they  are  not  called  cars,  but  carriages.  Each 
carriage  is  divided  into  three  sections,  —  a  first  class, 
second  class,  and  third  class  section.  The  first  class  is 
the  most  expensive  section,  and  is,  of  course,  occupied 
by  the  wealthier  class  of  people. 

A  section  consists  of  two  long  upholstered  seats 
facing  each  other  as  in  an  American  horse  car,  but  run- 
ning from  side  to  side  of  the  carriage.  Windows  at 
each  end  of  the  section  allow  the  traveler  to  look  at  the 
scenery  through  which  he  is  passing.  The  section  is 


MODERN    EUROPE.  21 

locked  between  the  stations.  At  various  stations  the 
tickets  carried  by  the  passengers  are  examined  by  rail- 
way officials,  called  guards. 

The  railroad  track  never  crosses  streets,  as  is  often  the 
case  in  America.  It  always  runs  above  or  below  them 
in  order  to  avoid  the  chance  of  accidents.  The  bridges 
and  embankments  are  of  solid  stone  and  of  excellent 
workmanship. 

The  scenery  one  beholds  in  journeying  from  Liver- 
pool to  London  is  remarkably  pretty  and  peaceful.  The 
most  striking  feature  is  the  brilliant  green  grass.  It  is 
never  a  dusty  green  or  a  brown  green,  but  always  the 
fresh  and  tender  green  of  early  spring.  It  shines,  too, 
with  a  beautiful  gloss,  and  is  often  thickset  with  daisies. 
These  daisies  are  smaller  than  the  flower  we  call  daisy 
in  America,  and  their  petals  are  usually  tinged  with 
pink.  The  English  farmer  dislikes  them,  and  is  always 
trying  to  uproot  them. 

The  trees  we  behold  are  of  fair  size,  but  not  particu- 
larly large  nor  ancient.  They  wave  their  branches  peace- 
fully beside  gentle  streams  or  over  the  low  gray  roofs 
of  village  churches. 

Small  towns  cluster  thickly  along  the  way.  They 
usually  consist  of  a  number  of  houses  with  trim  white 
walls  and  neat  roofs  tiled  with  red.  Their  coloring, 
you  see,  resembles  that  of  the  daisy.  Here  and  there 
a  quaint  old  cross  rises  over  the  market  place.  Occa- 
sionally we  obtain  a  glimpse  of  a  pretentious  dwelling, 
such  as  a  villa  or  the  country  seat  of  some  wealthy 
squire  or  small  baronet.  These  grand  houses  stand  in 
the  midst  of  finely  kept  parks  and  small  woods. 


22  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

So  we  speed  on  our  way  to  London,  into  which  we 
plunge  at  six  o'clock  of  a  dull,  rainy  evening.  Uproar, 
crowds,  gloom,  dirt  in  narrow  streets,  magnificence  in 
wider  streets,  —  such  is  the  first  confused  impression 
we  receive  in  driving  from  the  depot  to  the  hotel. 

One  might  spend  a  lifetime  studying  London  aijd, 
in  the  end,  not  know  the  city.  It  is  a  world  in  itself, 
and  no  small  world  either.  It  grows  yearly  in  all 
directions.  It  swallows  up  the  rural  suburbs  and 
changes  their  grassy  lawns  to  paved  streets.  Over  four 
million  people  live  in  London,  of  whom  far  too  large  a 
proportion  never  breathe  any  other  than  the  smoky 
city  air. 

London  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Thames.  In 
the  midland  counties  the  Thames  was  a  clear,  rippling 
stream,  but  here  it  is  a  grimy  and  black  river.  Both 
shores  are  bordered  with  wharves,  warehouses,  and 
docks  of  various  kinds.  Here  are  the  quarters  of  the 
wealthy  East  India  Company,  and  like  companies, 
which  have  made  the  fortunes  of  all  men  connected 
with  them  by  their  trade  with  the  half-civilized  people 
to  the  east  and  the  west. 

The  river  is  crowded  with  shipping.  Great  ocean 
hulks  covered  with  barnacles  are  hauled  up  for  repairs , 
active  barks  are  being  loaded  and  unloaded  at  the 
wharves ;  small  river  steamers  serving  as  ferry  boats 
dart  here  and  there  ;  and  wretched  boats  are  rowed 
about  by  rough-looking  men  seeking  employment  along 
the  shore. 

There  are  several  bridges  across  the  Thames.  Some 
are  only  used  by  railroads;  others  are  for  the  public. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  23 

The  most  famous  is  London  Bridge.  The  first  London 
Bridge  was  built  near  the  close  of  the  tenth  century,  but 
that  is  not  the  one  we  see  to-day. 

There  have  been  several  London  Bridges.  One  was 
burnt,  and  several  were  rebuilt.  The^present  one  cost 
ten  million  dollars;  The  heads  of  traitors  used  to  be 
set  up  on  the  iron  spikes  of  London  Bridge  for  the 
people  to  gaze  at  as  they  passed  by.  The  heads  of  Sir 
Thomas  More,  William  Wallace,  and  many  other  noted 
men  have  been  displayed  here.  I  should  think  that  the 
ghastly  line  of  skulls  would  have  made  the  bridge  a 
terrible  place  to  cross,  but  the  people  of  Elizabeth's  day 
did  not  seem  to  mind  it. 

There  used  to  be  stores  on  the  bridge ;  but,  as  the 
city  grew,  extra  space  was  required  and  they  were 
removed.  To-day  London  Bridge  is  the  busiest  place 
in  all  the  great  busy  city.  A  struggling  mass  of  people 
and  teams,  as  closely  packed  as  sardines,  swarm  over 
every  moment  of  the  day.  It  has  been  calculated  that 
eight  thousand  people  on  foot  and  nine  hundred  vehi- 
cles cross  every  hour.  The  roar  from  the  bridge  comes 
to  one  at  a  distance  like  the  rumble  of  remote  thunder. 

A  short  distance  above  London  Bridge,  the  northern 
side  of  the  Thames  has  been  much  improved  and  beau- 
tified. The  river  shore  has  been  edged  with  stone  and 
a  wide  driveway  has  been  laid  out.  This  improvement 
is  a  modern  one,  and  is  known  as  the  Victoria  Embank- 
ment. Another  embankment  called  by  Prince  Albert's 
name  has  been  constructed  on  the  opposite  shore. 

Following  up  the  Thames,  we  come  into  the  charming 
suburbs,  where  the  river  is  edged  by  fields  and  private 


24  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

lawns  on  which  gay  family  parties  are  laughing  and 
chatting  about  small  tea  tables  set  beneath  the  sturdy 
English  elms.  The  river  is  gay  with  boats  and  skiffs. 
Some  of  them  are  propelled  by  young  ladies.  Others 
are  pulled  by  lads  practising  for  the  races,  which  are 
yearly  held  on  the  reach  of  the  river  above  Putney 
Bridge. 

There  is  one  portion  of  London  called  "the  city." 
It  is  the  section,  in  all  this  busy  world,  where  the  most 
business  is  transacted.  The  spot  where  the  Royal  Ex- 
change and  the  Bank  of  England  stand  side  by  side 
might  be  considered  its  center.  The  business  transacted 
here  has  its  effect  on  the  wide  world.  Prices  given  for 
cotton,  wool,  and  grains,  and  the  exact  value  that 
money  is  worth  from  day  to  day  here  in  this  little 
square,  are  apt  to  affect  the  business  prosperity  of  us  in 
America.  It  is  very  hard  to  understand  how  this  can 
be  ;  but  it  is  a  fact  nevertheless. 

The  most  wonderful  sight  in  all  London  is  the 
crowds  of  people.  They  surge  through  Fleet  Street 
and  the  Strand.  They  elbow  past  one  another  in  the 
narrow  streets  by  the  water.  We  find  them  choosing 
vegetables  and  flowers  at  Covent  Garden ;  and  inspect- 
ing the  fish  at  Billingsgate,  the  largest  fish  market  in 
the  world. 

The  busy  stream  of  life  runs  as  resist! essly  and  steadily 
through  the  streets  of  London  as  the  Thames  itself  in 
its  appointed  channel.  Yet  there  are  a  few  shoals  in  it. 
There  are  some  quiet  nooks  where  a  few  spirits  have 
gathered,  near  the  crowd  and  yet  just  out  of  it. 
Among  these  places  are  the  "Inns  of  Court."  Here 


MODERN    EUROPE.  25 

lawyers  and  literary  men  find  quiet  and  retirement 
from  the  whirl  of  city  life. 

Imagine  grass-grown  courts  surrounded  by  very 
ancient  and  quaint-looking  stone  buildings,  crowded 
closely  together  so  as  to  leave  but  narrow  lanes  for 
entrance  or  exit.  Perhaps  there  may  be  a  fragment  of 
an  old  church  dating  back  to  the  time  of  the  crusaders. 
There  is  such  a  one  in  the  Temple,  which  was  once  the 
home  of  the  class  of  crusaders  known  as  the  Knights 
Templars. 

The  Temple  has  its  traditions  of  Shakespeare,  Gold- 
smith, and  Lamb.  Goldsmith  is  buried  here;  and  some 
modern  lawyer,  with  a  love  of  the  quaint  and  gentle 
essayist,  A\  ill  show  you  up  a  short,  narrow  staircase  to 
the  chamber  where  Charles  Lamb  dwelt  for  many  years 
that  he  might  not  be  far  from  his  dear  Fleet  Street. 

There  are  many  interesting  places  that  one  finds 
while  strolling  about  the  city  streets.  Not  a  few  of 
them  are  associated  with  dearly  loved  authors  or  books. 
Here  is  the  Charterhouse  School  where  Thackeray  was 
so  unhappy,  and  Christ's  Hospital  where  Coleridge  used 
to  tell  his  marvelous  stories  to  his  blue-coated  comrades. 
There  the  cold  blank  walls  of  Newgate  Prison  frown 
down,  even  as  they  did  when  set  on  fire  by  the  Gordon 
rioters  while  the  wretched  inmates  were  shrieking  for 
mercy.  And  here,  here,  is  Smithfield,  where  for  many 
decades  the  flames  were  fed  with  martyrs,  —  Papists  at 
one  time,  and  Protestants  the  next. 

Two  of  the  most  important  public  buildings  in  the 
city  are  St.  Paul's  Church  and  the  Tower  of  London. 
St.  Paul's  has  a  lofty  dome  surmounted  by  a  golden 


26  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

cross  which  makes  it  a  landmark  for  all  the  country 
round.  It  is  so  surrounded  by  lofty  buildings  that  a 
view  of  the  whole  church  is  impossible.  From  a  dis- 
tance, only  the  dome  is  visible ;  as  one  draws  near  the 
church,  the  lofty  facade  appears  towering  high  above 
one's  head  and  hiding  the  dome  from  sight. 

The  interior  is  somewhat  bare.  The  walls  of  the 
continental  churches  are  so  covered  with  paintings,  carv- 
ings, gilding,  and  mosaics,  that  a  plain,  undecorated 
space  of  wall  appears  almost  shabby.  Still  the  church 
is  massive  and  beautiful,  and  the  vast  space  is  im- 
pressive. 

The  deep-toned  bell  bears  this  curious  inscription  :  — 
"  Richard  Phelps  made  me,  1716."  It  strikes  the  hour, 
but  is  never  rung  except  on  the  death  of  some  member 
of  the  royal  family,  the  Bishop  of  London,  or  the 
Lord  Mayor  while  in  office.  This  rule  was  broken 
when  President  Garfield  died ;  for  then  the  English 
paid  us  the  courtesy  of  ringing  the  bell  of  St.  Paul's. 

It  is  a  surprise  to  find  that  England,  whose  noblest 
gift  to  her  great  men  is  a  place  in  Westminster  Abbey, 
should  have  suffered  the  bodies  of  Wellington  and 
Nelson,  her  chief  defenders  against  Bonaparte,  to  be 
buried  in  St.  Paul's.  The  same  roof  shelters  the  great 
soldier  and  the  great  sailor.  In  the  crypt  may  be  seen 
the  tombs  of  Turner,  Reynolds,  and  Dr.  Johnson. 

The  Tower  of  London  is  a  huge  jumble  of  battle- 
mented  walls,  gateways,  and  towers.  It  is  the  oldest 
building  used  by  the  government  in  England.  The 
White  Tower  was  built  in  the  time  of  William  the 
Conqueror,  and  additions  have  been  made  to  it  in  sue- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  27 

ceeding  reigns.  The  Tower  is  surrounded  by  a  moat, 
which,  however,  contains  no  water. 

The  room  in  which  are  the  royal  jewels,  is  the  most 
interesting.  The  jewels  are  in  a  huge  case  of  glass  and 
iron,  and  are  carefully  guarded.  The  crown  of  Queen 
Victoria  is  a  wonderful  exhibition  of  the  skill  of  the 
goldsmith.  Beside  being  finely  wrought,  it  is  set  with 
three  thousand  beautiful  diamonds.  The  largest  dia- 
mond belonging  to  the  British  sovereign,  the  Kohinoor, 
is  at  Windsor,  but  a  model  of  it  is  seen  in  the  case  at 
the  Tower. 

The  guide  shows  the  various  prisons  and  strong 
chambers  in  which  the  royalty  and  nobility  of  the  past 
have  pined  away  and  died.  King  James  of  Scotland, 
poor  little  Edward  V.  and  his  small  brother,  Lady  Jane 
Grey,  Queen  Elizabeth,  and  Sir  Walter  Raleigh,  were 
all  imprisoned  here  at  different  times.  King  James  and 
Queen  Elizabeth  were  released,  but  the  others  all  met 
death  in  various  ways.  Sometimes  an  execution  took 
place  in  the  Tower ;  but  the  doomed  person  to  whom 
this  privilege  was  given  was  usually  a  member  of  the 
royal  family. 

"  The  city  "  divides  London  into  two  parts.  That 
to  the  east  of  "the  city  "  is  called  the  East  End;  that  to 
west,  the  West  End.  The  contrast  between  the  two 
sections  is  as  black  is  to  white. 

The  East  End  is  the  abode  of  poverty,  misery,  and 
vice.  Here  are  narrow,  dirty  streets  with  tenement 
houses  a  dozen  stories  in  height,  casting  a  cold  gloom 
below.  The  houses,  even  to  the  stairways,  are  swarm- 
ing with  people.  From  three  to  a  dozen  persons  occupy 


28  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

each  small  room  ten  feet  long  by  eight  feet  wide.  It  is 
more  like  the  wretched  quarter  of  an  Italian  city  than 
like  what  we  should  expect  in  England. 

Crowds  of  children  play  in  the  gutters,  and  men  and 
women  sit  idly  on  the  doorsteps  and  stare  stupidly  after 
you,  if  you  have  dared  to  come  down,  here  to  White- 
chapel.  It  is  decidedly  a  question  of  daring,  for  lurk- 
ing about  the  corners  are  fierce-looking  thieves  eyeing 
you  stealthily. 

At  the  windows  of  the  houses  may  be  seen  pallid 
girls  sewing  away  for  dear  life,  pausing  for  a  moment 
occasionally  to  catch  a  mouthful  of  food.  They  stitch, 
stitch,  stitch,  from  six  in  the  morning  till  ten  and  eleven 
at  night,  day  after  day  and  year  after  year.  All  they 
work  for  is  to  preserve  life,  and  so  wretched  is  that 
life  that  the  wonder  is  they  work  at  all. 

If  their  sewing  is  poorly  done,  very  likely  they  are 
"drilled."  In  such  a  case,  they  are  told  to  wait  for 
work ;  and  then  no  work  is  given  them.  They  stand 
hour  after  hour,  and  sometimes  day  after  day,  until  it 
may  please  those  in  authority  to  release  them.  It  is 
exhausting  to  a  strong  man  to  stand  still  for  hours. 
What  must  a  delicate,  hungry  girl  endure  in  the  same 
circumstances!  If  she  refuses  to  wait,  she  loses  her 
only  means  of  livelihood. 

It  is  often  suggested  that  the  poor  would  be  healthier 
and  happier  in  the  country  just  outride  of  London. 
That  is  true,  but  it  is  impossible  for  them  to  live  there. 
They  must  be  near  their  places  of  employment.  Lon- 
don is  so  vast  that  it  would  take  too  much  time  to 
come  and  go  between  the  home  and  the  workshop.  So 


MODERN    EUROPE.  29 

the  poor  herd  together,  rent  is  consequently  higher, 
and  all  are  helplessly  miserable.  Good  people  come 
from  the  West  End,  and  try  to  relieve  their  sufferings 
and  to  give  them  some  means  of  enjoyment ;  but  such 
efforts  are  as  a  drop  in  the  bucket.  Meanwhile  the 
East  End  continues  to  be  the  abode  of  crime  and  suf- 
fering of  every  kind. 

How  different  it  is  at  the  West  End!  Here  the 
streets  are  wide  and  handsome,  and  there  are  many 
large  and  beautiful  parks  where  the  air  is  fresh  and 
free  from  the  city  smoke. 

These  parks  are  for  the  poor  as  well  as  for  the  rich. 
But  they  are  nearer  the  dwellings  of  the  rich,  and 
somehow  the  poor  people  frequent  them  very  little. 
On  Sundays,  or  on  bank  holidays,  which  occur  occa- 
sionally on  Monday,  some  of  the  more  respectable  poor 
come  over  to  the  West  End,  and  walk  in  Hyde  Park 
or  Regent's  Park. 

The  houses  of  the  West  End  consist  either  of  stately 
blocks  of  brick  or  stone,  or  single  buildings  so  elegant 
as  to  merit  the  name  of  palaces.  These  palaces  are 
inhabited  by  lords,  earls,  dukes,  and  princes.  The 
Queen's  London  house,  Buckingham  Palace,  is  also 
here. 

Certain  districts  to  the  north  of  "  the  city "  such  as 
Camden  Town,  Kentish  Town,  Islington,  and  the  like, 
are  unfashionable  localities.  Bookkeepers,  clerks,  and 
well-to-do  mechanics  have  their  homes  here ;  and  either 
walk  daily  to  their  places  of  business  or  take  an  omnibus. 

There  are  four  parks  at  the  West  End.  They  are 
Regent's  Park,  Hyde  Park,  Green  Park,  and  St.  James' 
Park. 


30  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Regent's  Park  is  smaller  than  Hyde  Park,  and  not 
so  fashionable.  It  contains  the  Zoological  Gardens; 
and,  on  that  account,  is  much  visited  by  governesses 
and  their  pupils,  and  by  nursery  maids  and  their  young 
charges.  A  trip  to  the  "  Zoo,"  as  the  English  children 
call  the  Zoological  collection,  is  a  real  treat.  It  is  one 
fit  to  be  offered  as  a  reward  for  the  conquest  of  a  Latin 
declension  or  a  French  verb. 

Jumbo  spent  many  years  of  his  life  in  Regent's  Park, 
and  many  English  children  wept  when  they  learned 
that  Mr.  Barrium  had  bought  him  for  ten  thousand 
dollars  and  intended  to  carry  him  to  America.  The 
lions  and  the  cage  of  monkeys  are  the  chief  attraction 
now  to  the  "  Zoo."  The  sea  lions  and  the  hippopotami 
are  interesting,  while  the  seals  perform  curious  tricks 
as  they  are  fed. 

Hyde  Park  is  adjoined  by  Kensington  Gardens,  and 
the  two  together  form  the  largest  breathing  space  in 
London.  The  park  contains  shady  walks  and  rides, 
green  stretches  of  turf,  and  an  ornamental  lake  called 
the  Serpentine.  Society  people  ride  horseback  in  a 
walk  called  Rotten  Row  during  the  hours  from  twelve 
to  two,  and  drive  in  another  quarter  of  the  park  be- 
tween four  and  six. 

The  English  of  the  upper  class,  both  men  and  women, 
are  superb  riders.  They  pride  themselves  upon  their 
beautiful  horses.  At  noon  the  Row  is  thronged  with 
spirited,  high-stepping  horses  with  arching  necks,  which 
are  ridden  with  exquisite  grace  by  fair-haired  young 
English  women.  Military  men  and  young  men  of 
fashion  may  also  be  seen,  curbing  their  restless  steeds 


MODERN    EUROPE.  31 

to  chat  with  the  friends  whom  they  have  chanced  to 
meet. 

On  each  side  of  the  Row  is  a  walk.  One  of  these 
walks  is  regularly  filled  with  crowds  who  come  to  look 
at  the  riding.  There  are  seats  beneath  the  trees  for 
elderly  people  who  wish  to  rest ;  while  tall  and  slender 
schoolgirls  walk  up  and  down  for  their  morning's  air- 
ing, attended  by  a  governess  or  elderly  relation. 

Later  in  the  day,  the  crowd  is  transferred  to  the 
drive.  Six  rows  of  carriages  are  moving  to  and  fro. 
The  horses  are  walking,  as  no  quicker  movement  is 
possible  in  the  dense  throng.  Three  rows  of  vehicles 
are  moving  in  one  direction,  and  three  in  the  opposite 
direction.  Policemen  are  stationed  at  intervals  to 
direct  the  coachmen,  and  to  prevent  any  plebeian  vehi- 
cle from  joining  the  lines  where  the  elite  of  London 
drive  leisurely  and  bow  languidly  to  one  another. 

Kensington  Gardens  is  a  lovely  quiet  place.  It 
is  not  fashionable  like  the  park,  and  so  is  seldom 
crowded.  Great  trees  bend  their  branches  to  the 
ground.  The  walks  are  either  shady  with  shrubbery 
or  bright  with  bordering  flower  beds  and  dashing  foun- 
tains. Kensington  Palace,  standing  in  the  Gardens, 
contains  a  picture  gallery  and  a  fine  geological  collec- 
tion, which  has  recently  been  removed  here  from  the 
National  Gallery. 

Not  far  from  St.  James'  Park,  are  St.  James  Street 
and  Piccadilly.  Many  famous  club  houses  are  here, 
where  men  of  wealth  and  fashion  and  leisure  spend 
much  of  their  time.  The  club  seems  to  serve  as  a 
home  to  them.  Some  of  the  members  have  no  other 


32  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

homes  ;  others,  who  have,  still  keep  their  membership 
because  of  the  pleasure  which  the  club  society  affords 
them. 

The  devoted  club  man  stops  in  the  morning  to  read 
the  newspaper;  he  brings  a  friend  in  to  lunch  with  him  ; 
he  lounges  and  chats  all  the  afternoon  with  chance 
comers.  In  the  evening  he  dines  there  with  a  party 
of  friends,  who  play  several  games  of  billiards.  Per- 
haps they  run  into  a  neighboring  theatre  to  see  the  last 
act  of  a  popular  play,  and  then  return  to  their  cards 
and  a  snug  little  supper  at  twelve.  The  club  man  hies 
to  his  home  at  one ;  his  valet  puts  him  to  bed ;  and  at 
ten  o'clock  the  next  morning  he  appears  at  his  club, 
ready  to  begin  the  same  round  again. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  the  parks  is  a  grand  old  build- 
ing, which  visitors  to  London  most  wish  to  see.  It  is 
Westminster  Abbey. 

This  historic  building  is  older  than  the  Norman  Con- 
quest. It  was  first  designed  for  the  burial  place  of 
English  kings  and  queens,  but  gradually  it  came  to 
pass  that  all  the  good  and  great  men  of  England  were 
honored  with  a  burial  here.  Think  what  a  rich  and 
sacred  place  this  must  be,  which  has  garnered  in  all  the 
glory  and  worth  of  the  English  nation  for  one  thousand 
years. 

One  of  the  oldest  tombs  is  that  of  Edward  the  Con- 
fessor, the  founder  of  the  Abbey.  Dean  Stanley's  is 
one  of  the  latest.  He,  more  than  any  other  man, 
labored  to  reveal  to  the  English  people  the  treasures 
of  historical  value  and  inspiration  that  their  Abbey 
contains. 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


33 


WESTMINSTER    ABBEY. 


84  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE, 

The  interior  may  seem  disappointing  at  first.  The 
architecture  is  not  especially  striking,  and  both  walls 
and  floor  have  a  dark  and  worn  look.  The  memorials 
of  the  dead  seem  too  numerous  ;  and  one  is  confused 
by  the  glowing  tributes  to  men,  great  in  their  day  but 
long  since  forgotten. 

But  wait  awhile.  As  one  wanders  up  and  down, 
reading  the  epitaphs  and  gazing  at  the  busts  or  figures 
of  the  heroes  of  the  past,  the  wonder  and  glory  of  the 
Abbey  begins  to  fill  the  mind  with  light,  and  the  whole 
place  seems  transfigured. 

Poets'  Corner  comes  to  occupy  in  one's  mind  more 
than  the  corner  allotted  to  it  in  the  Abbey.  It  easily 
rivals  the  memorials  of  the  Plantagenets,  the  Tudors, 
and  the  Stuarts.  Here  are  busts  of  Shakespeare,  Mil- 
ton, and  our  own  Longfellow.  Dickens  and  Thackeray 
are  both  buried  here.  Not  far  away  is  a  small  stone 
bearing  the  words  :  "  O  rare  Ben  Jonson."  This  cele- 
brated play  writer  asked  his  sovereign  for  a  spot  eigh- 
teen inches  square  in  Westminster  Abbey.  The  request 
was  granted,  and  he  was  buried  upright  that  he  might 
not  occupy  more  than  the  stipulated  measure  of  ground. 
"  O  rare  Ben  Jonson,"  the  remark  of  a  passer-by,  was 
chosen  as  the  epitaph  for  his  tomb. 

Monuments  that  are  especially  interesting  to  Amer- 
icans are  those  of  the  Earl  of  Chatham  and  Major 
Andre*.  After  the  Revolution,  the  Americans  returned 
the  body  of  the  unfortunate  young  soldier  to  the  Brit- 
ish. They  laid  it  in  the  Abbey,  and  erected  a  fine 
monument  to  mark  the  spot.  Britannia  is  represented 
mourning  over  his  early  death,  while  the  British  lion 


MODERN    EUROPE.  35 

stands  beside  her.  A  bas-relief  below  portrays  one  of 
the  closing  scenes  in  Andrews  life. 

Two  stained  glass  windows  have  been  recently  placed 
in  the  Abbey  by  a  rich  American.  One  is  to  honor 
George  Herbert,  and  the  other  the  poet  Cowper. 

In  the  chapel  where  Edward  the  Confessor  is  buried 
stands  the  English  coronation  chair.  Below  the  seat, 
set  in  the  open  framework,  is  the  famous  Scone  stone. 
Upon  this  rock  the  Scottish  kings  were  crowned,  and  it 
was  a  crushing  blow  to  Scotland  when  Edward  I.  car- 
ried it  away  to  England.  From  that  time  the  English 
kings  have  been  crowned  upon  the  Scone  stone. 

Henry  VII. 's  chapel  was  an  important  addition  to 
the  Abbey,  and  a  very  beautiful  one.  It  is  separated 
from  the  older  building  by  a  flight  of  stairs  and  orna- 
mental brass  gates. 

Perhaps  the  two  most  interesting  tombs  in  this  chapel 
are  those  of  Queen  Elizabeth  and  her  celebrated  rival, 
Mary  Stuart,  Queen  of  Scots.  The  tombs  of  both 
monarchs  are  similar.  A  statue  of  each  royal  princess 
rests  upon  her  tomb,  with  the  head  pillowed  on  a 
cushion  of  stone.  Mary  has  a  beautifully  shaped  head, 
while  Elizabeth  wears  the  same  lionlike  look  that  was 
hers  in  life. 

So  one  recalls  the  romances  and  realities  of  the  past, 
while  sauntering  up  and  down  the  quiet  Abbey,  as  the 
mellow  western  light  through  the  stained  glass  windows 
is  slowly  fading,  and  the  shouts  of  the  boys  of  West- 
minster School  near  by  ring  out  at  their  play. 

They  once  were  allowed  to  play  in  this  sacred  Abbey, 
and  the  hollows  for  marbles,  carved  with  their  jack- 


36  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

knives,  may  still  be  seen  in  the  worn  stone  floor.  Bless 
the  boys !  They  are  the  same  from  age  to  age.  Those 
clumsy  cuts  seem  to  bring  the  past  very  near,  and  with 
it  the  bright-faced  boys  who  grew  up  perhaps  into  grim 
and  straight-laced  covenanters  and  long-haired  and 
dashing  cavaliers,  fighting  each  other  to  the  death. 

Adjoining  the  Abbey  are  the  Houses  of  Parliament. 
The  Parliament  makes  the  laws  that  govern  the  English 
people.  Like  our  Congress,  it  has  two  legislative 
bodies.  They  are  the  House  of  Lords  and  the  House  of 
Commons.  The  members  of  the  House  of  Commons 
are  elected  by  the  people. 

The  Parliament  buildings  cover  eight  acres.  They 
are  ornamented  with  many  spires,  towers,  and  buttresses. 
The  chambers  where  the  two  houses  meet  seem  very 
much  like  the  interiors  of  old  churches.  The  lofty  ceil- 
ings, walls,  and  furniture  are  of  dark,  carved  wood. 
The  upholstery  of  the  seats  is  dark.  Gothic  windows 
of  stained  glass  let  in  a  limited  amount  of  daylight. 

The  Hall  of  the  House  of  Commons  has  rows  of  seats 
ranged  on  opposite  sides  of  the  room  and  facing  each 
other.  They  are  separated  by  an  aisle  called  the  gang- 
way. At  the  head  of  the  gangway  is  the  Speaker's 
desk.  Those  members  who  believe  in  the  polic}^  of  the 
prime  minister,  sit  on  the  right  of  the  Speaker.  Those 
members  who  oppose  him,  sit  on  the  left. 

There  are  galleries  running  round  the  four  sides  of 
the  room.  That  over  the  Speaker's  head  is  occupied  by 
newspaper  reporters.  The  opposite  gallery  is  for  gen- 
tleman visitors.  Etiquette  requires  lady  visitors  to 
climb  to  a  gallery  still  loftier,  enclosed  by  a  wire  screen 


MODERN    EUROPE.  37 

through  which  they  gaze  and  view  indistinctly  what 
goes  on  below. 

Many  famous  scenes  have  taken  place  in  this  dark 
and  stately  chamber.  Pitt  Jid  Fox  made  their  great 
speeches  here  in  the  time  of  George  III. ;  Gladstone  and 
Disraeli  opposed  each  other  in  this  place  ;  the  "  grand 
old  man  "  still  speaks,  but  his  words  fall  upon  the  ears 
of  a  later  generation,  for  now  (1892)  it  is  Balfour,  Har- 
court,  and  Labouchere  who  listen  to  his  strong  words. 

The  sessions  of  the  House,  strangely  enough,  last 
from  four  in  the  afternoon  till  early  the  next  morning. 
The  lights  of  the  Parliament  House  make  the  square  a 
brilliant  scene  by  night. 

The  House  of  Lords  is  a  more  dignified  body  than 
the  House  of  Commons.  The  bishops  and  archbishops 
of  England  are  entitled  to  seats  in  the  House  of  Lords. 
The  Queen's  throne  is  in  this  chamber,  and  here  she 
annually  opens  Parliament  and  makes  her  speech. 

A  short  distance  up  the  Thames  on  the  further  side 
of  the  river  from  the  Parliament  House  is  Lambeth 
Palace.  This  is  the  London  residence  of  the  Arch- 
bishop of  Canterbury,  who  is  the  highest 'prelate  in  the 
Church  of  England. 

The  oldest  part  of  Lambeth  Palace  is  the  chapel, 
which  was  built  in  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury. Perhaps  the  Lollards'  Tower  is  the  most  inter- 
esting part  of  the  palace.  The  Lollards  were  followers 
of  Wycliffe,  one  of  the  early  English  reformers.  Some 
of  them  are  supposed  to  have  been  imprisoned  and  tor- 
tured in  the  tower  that  bears  their  name.  To  this  day 
there  may  be  seen  in  the  walls  of  Lollards'  Tower  eight 
large  rings,  to  which  the  prisoners  were  chained. 


38  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

One  of  the  chief  squares  of  London  is  Trafalgar 
Square.  It  contains  a  lofty  monument  in  honor  of 
Lord  Nelson,  who  won  a  battle  from  the  French  at  Cape 
Trafalgar.  One  of  the^ld  London  crosses  formerly 
stood  here,  but  it  has  been  removed.  The  northern  side 
of  the  square  is  occupied  by  the  National  Gallery,  which 
contains  a  fine  collection  of  pictures. 

Nearer  "the  city"  is  the  British  Museum,  surrounded 
by  a  network  of  quiet  squares  and  streets.  The  houses 
here  were  once  fashionable  homes,  but  long  since  the 
signs  and  cards  of  the  respectable  boarding  house  keeper 
have  appeared  in  the  windows.  The  nearness  of  the 
Museum  is  the  great  attraction  of  this  locality  to 
students  and  scholars  of  all  kinds. 

Next  to  the  National  Library  of  Paris,  the  Museum 
contains  more  books  than  any  other  building  in  the 
world.  It  has  nearly  two  million  volumes,  and  a  great 
number  of  valuable  manuscripts. 

Here  are  also  famous  collections  of  Egyptian  and  Gre- 
cian works  of  art.  Perhaps  the  most  noted  object  is  the 
Rosetta  Stone  with  its  lettering  of  Greek  characters  and 
Egyptian  hieroglyphics.  It  was  by  this  stone  that  the 
clew  was  obtained  to  the  method  of  reading  the  written 
language  of  the  Egyptians.  By  this  discovery,  a  flood 
of  light  was  thrown  over  the  history  of  the  past. 

Many  charming  excursions  may  be  made  from 
London.  One  is  to  the  Crystal  Palace,  an  immense 
structure  of  plate  glass  and  iron,  where  one  can  behold 
the  products  and  industries  of  a  dozen  countries  in  as 
many  hours.  A  day  spent  in  careful  study  in  that 
building  is  worth  more  than  reading  a  stack  of  geogra- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  39 

phy  books.  The  Palace,  like  a  huge,  glittering  jewel, 
stands  in  the  midst  of  its  gardens,  forests,  and  parks. 
Beyond,  the  lovely  county  of  Surrey  with  its  heather- 
covered  hills  rolls  away  on  all  sides. 

Greenwich  and  Richmond  Hill  are  pleasant  places  to 
visit,  as  is  also  Windsor.  Greenwich  looks  out  on  the 
Thames,  while  Richmond  has  a  wide  and  beautiful  park 
and  also  commands  a  fine  view  of  distant  London. 
The  view  of  the  city  by  night  is  especially  impressive. 
"  It  is  as  if  all  the  constellations  of  the  sky  had  fallen 
into  an  ebony  ocean."  Greenwich  and  Richmond  are 
famous  for  the  good  dinners  that  can  be  obtained  at 
their  hotels. 

Windsor  is  a  small  town,  chiefly  noted  for  containing 
Windsor  Castle,  one  of  the  residences  of  the  Queen. 
The  castle  is  a  very  old  and  beautiful  one.  It  has 
towers  and  galleries  of  all  dates,  and  is  thickly  covered 
with  ivy.  When  Victoria  is  present,  the  British  flag  is 
raised. 

Windsor  Park  contains  the  memorial  chapel  built 
by  the  Queen  to  her  dead  husband,  Prince  Albert. 
A  beautifully  executed  statue  of  white '  marble  repre- 
sents the  prince  in  armor  lying  upon  his  tomb.  All 
the  decorations  of  the  chapel,  the  windows,  and  the 
carvings  in  wood  and  marble  are  most  delicate  and  per- 
fect in  their  execution. 

The  gayest  months  of  London  are  those  between 
Easter  and  the  middle  of  August.  That  time  is  called 
the  "  season."  And  it  is  indeed  a  season  of  festiv- 
ities for  the  people  of  leisure  who  dwell  at  the  West 
End, 


40  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

Here  are  Lady  Silverreed  and  her  two  daughters, 
Maud  and  Florence.  They  are  in  the  very  highest 
society,  and  their  desks  are  piled  with  cards  of  invita- 
tion. Let  us  follow  them  through  one  day. 

To  begin  with,  they  were  at  a  ball  the  preceding 
evening,  which  did  not  close  until  four  o'clock.  They 
sleep  until  eleven  o'clock,  when,  instead  of  having  a 
leisurely  breakfast  at  home,  they  are  obliged  to  hurry 
off  to  a  breakfast  party  given  by  a  friend  several  squares 
away.  They  eat  very  little,  as  they  are  aware  of  a  lunch 
which  they  must  attend  a  little  later. 

After  the  lunch,  the  daughters  mount  their  horses, 
and,  attended  by  their  groom,  pace  slowly  up  and  down 
the  Row  for  an  hour.  In  the  afternoon  Maud  attends 
a  garden  party  with  her  aunt,  while  Florence  makes  the 
round  of  several  afternoon  teas  with  her  mother. 

Maud  scarcely  enjoys  the  garden  party.  It  is  May, 
and  the  spring  is  backward.  The  lawns  and  walks  are 
prettily  decorated  with  bunting  and  tents ;  but  a  chill 
east  wind  arises,  a  suggestion  of  fog  fills  the  air,  and  not 
even  the  hot  drinks  can  prevent  the  guests  from  sharing 
the  general  depression. 

Perhaps  there  is  a  drive  in  Hyde  Park  and  a  moment 
of  leisure,  before  it  is  time  to  prepare  for  the  evening's 
festivities.  What,  more  festivities?  Yes,  indeed,  for 
now  comes  a  stately  dinner  where  noblemen,  distin- 
guished writers,  artists,  travelers,  and  politicians  are 
guests.  Then  follows  a  wearisome  round  of  receptions, 
private  concerts,  parties,  and  balls. 

They  are  not  expected  to  spend  the  evening  at  one 
place,  but  are  to  show  themselves  at  all  the  grand 


MODERN    EUROPE.  41 

houses.  So  they  are  crushed  in  small  drawing-rooms, 
as  they  try  to  speak  to  the  hostess,  and  are  pushed 
about  if  they  venture  to  dance.  They  arrive  at  a  con- 
cert in  a  private  residence  only  to  learn  that  they  are 
just  too  late  to  hear  the  great  Patti  sing.  They  almost 
catch  their  deaths  in  cold  draughts  in  halls,  while  wait- 
ing near  the  open  door  to  hear  their  carriage  announced. 

The  carriages  are  ranged  in  definite  order ;  and  pre- 
serve this  order,  as  they  slowly  move  to  the  entrance 
and  pass  on.  When  a  carriage  comes  opposite  the  door, 
the  head  footman,  a  powdered  individual  with  a  big 
wig,  calls  out :  "  Lady  So-and-So's  carriage  blocks  the 
way."  Only  a  moment  is  allowed  for  the  carriage  to 
wait.  If  Lady  So-and-So  is  not  promptly  ready,  her 
coachman  must  drive  on  and  she  herself  must  wait  her 
turn  once  more. 

At  three  o'clock  Lady  Silverreed  says,  "  Home,"  to 
her  coachman,  and  this  day  is  over.  Florence  enjoys 
the  "  season  "  exceedingly,  but  Maud  expresses  a  wish 
for  their  old  schoolroom  with  its  faded  furniture  and 
familiar  desks,  its  early  hours  and  healthful  work. 

Don't  you  think  this  is  a  hard  life  to  lead  ?  Do  you 
wonder  that  these  gay  butterflies  need  to  seek  country 
or  seaside  air  to  recruit  themselves  for  next  year?  But 
the  "  season  "  is  not  over  until  Parliament  closes,  and 
Parliament  is  sometimes  a  weary  while  in  closing. 

But  in  those  gay  months  there  are  two  events  which 
are  really  different  from  the  others  and  interesting  in 
themselves.  One  is  the  day  of  the  great  cricket  match 
between  Harrow  and  Eton.  The  other  is  the  day  of 
the  Derby  race. 


42  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Harrow  and  Eton  are  two  of  the  large  public  schools 
which  prepare  boys  for  college.  Many  of  the  lads  be- 
long to  the  highest  families  in  England,  and  their  rela- 
tives are  glad  to  go  down  to  see  the  match  between  the 
rival  schools.  Because  a  few  great  people  go,  all  the 
rest  have  to  follow.  More  than  half  the  crowd  do  not 
see  the  match.  It  is  merely  a  picnic  to  them.  They 
ride  down  in  drags,  add  their  carriages  to  the  lines 
already  five  or  six  deep,  and  lunch  and  chat  with  ac- 
quaintances they  may  meet. 

The  day  of  the  Derby  race  is  even  more  of  an  event. 
The  Prince  of  Wales  and  his  family  usually  attend  it, 
occupying  places  reserved  for  the  court  and  the  great 
men  expected  to  be  present.  Once  parties  attending 
the  races  chartered  coaches  and  drove  down,  but  nowa- 
days they  are  more  apt  to  take  the  train.  All  the 
ladies  try  to  have  some  new  and  striking  costume, 
and  the  carriages  and  stands  surrounding  the  race 
course  are  bright  with  spring  colors  and  gay  and 
laughing  faces. 

The  race  is  run  by  horses  the  fleetest  and  most  beau- 
tiful of  their  kind.  They  are  ridden  by  jockeys,  and 
are  known  by  colors  which  the  jockey  and  the  horse 
alike  wear.  The  jockeys  thoroughly  understand  horses, 
and  each  knows  well  the  strong  points  of  the  animal 
he  is  to  ride.  He  knows  when  a  word,  a  pat,  a  slight 
movement  of  the  rein,  is  needed  to  spur  the  horse  to  his 
utmost. 

The  horses  used  in  these  races  are  beauties.  They 
all  have  striking  names,  and  their  photographs  have 
made  people,  far  and  wide,  acquainted  with  them. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  43 

They  stand  in  line  and,  at  a  signal,  speed  away  from 
us.  Having  run  a  given  distance,  they  turn,  and  come 
back  toward  their  starting  point.  Each  horse  seems  a 
bird,  so  rapidly  does  he  skim  the  ground.  The  bright 
sashes  of  the  jockey  coats  gleam  above  the  horse's  shin- 
ing flanks. 

Several  horses  advance  before  the  others,  a  half 
length,  —  a  full  length.  The  thin,  sharp  faces  of  the 
leaders  seem  straining  to  their  utmost.  Two  are  to  the 
front,  a  bay  horse  and  a  gray  ;  and,  just  at  the  last,  the 
bay,  by  a  mighty  effort,  heaves  ahead.  Bend  Ox ! 
Bend  Ox  has  won  the  Derby !  His  jockey  is  on  the 
ground,  patting  and  caressing  the  foaming  creature, 
praising  him,  loving  him,  almost  adoring  him.  People 
are  flocking  around  the  victor.  His  name  is  on  every 
lip  and  has  already  been  telegraphed  to  all  corners  of 
England.  A  fine  sight  it  is,  to  see  almost  perfectly 
matched  horses  run  such  a  magnificent  race. 

But  there  is  another  and  a  darker  side  to  the  Derby 
that  must  not  be  overlooked.  'It  is  a  sad  and  terrible 
fact  that  among  high  and  low,  rich  and.  poor,  the  races 
are  made  the  occasion  of  betting.  Men  stake  their  all 
upon  a  certain  horse.  If  he  is  outrun,  they  lose  every- 
thing they  possess ;  if  he  wins,  they  are  wealthy  for  life. 

The  moment  or  two  of  the  actual  race  finds  such  a 
man  watching  the  horses  with  bloodless  lips  and  strain- 
ing eyes.  His  heart  is  on  his  lips,  his  life  is  in  his 
hands.  Is  that,  oh,  is  that,  the  green,  his  color,  in  the 
lead?  No  !  So  while  the  victor's  name  is  being  hailed 
with  shouts  of  joy  by  many,  for  many  more  it  is  a  knell 
of  despair. 


44  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Parliament  has  at  last  closed.  Society  people  are 
glad  to  leave  London,  which  in  the  fall  and  winter  is 
more  disagreeable  than  usual.  The  London  fog,  which 
'begins  as  a  yellow  haze  and  deepens  into  a  thick,  black 
cloud,  is  frequent  at  this  season  of  the  year.  People 
sometimes  lose  their  way  in  these  fogs,  and  grope 
around  until  morning.  Lanterns  fail  to  pierce  the 
gloom,  and  cabs  wander  helplessly  about  with  fright- 
ened tourists. 

Under  such  cheerless  circumstances  those  who  can 
gladly  take  a  run  on  the  continent,  or  a  trip  to 
Brighton  or  the  Isle  of  Wight.  Some  hire  shooting 
boxes  in  Scotland,  while  others  seek  their  country 
seats  in  Surrey,  Devonshire,  Berkshire,  or  Hamp- 
shire. 

These  homes  are  delightful.  The  house  is  usually  a 
large  and  well-built  one,  standing  perhaps  on  terraces. 
It  has  a  fine  driveway  bordered  with  stately  oaks  and 
elms,  leading  through  the  spacious  park  to  the  house. 
The  gardens  are  well  stocked  with  choice  varieties  of 
flowers,  and  are  laid  out  with  a  certain  trim  regularity. 
The  beds  are  circles  or  hearts,  bordered  with  box.  The 
market  garden  is  an  interesting  place,  with  peach  trees 
trained  against  the  sunny  brick  wall.  There  are  con- 
servatories, and  graperies,  and  furthermore,  well-kept 
stables  and  kennels  which  are  the  pride  of  the  owner's 
heart. 

The  house  is  usually  filled  with  guests,  but  perfect 
freedom  is  allowed  to  everybody.  Life  moves  on  in  a 
pleasant,  leisurely  way,  and  the  guests  amuse  them- 
selves as  thev  choose. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  45 

Breakfast  is  a  desultory  meal,  at  which  the  house- 
hold discusses  the  plans  for  the  day.  The  gentlemen 
then  go  out  hunting  in  the  extensive  preserves  of  their 
host.  The  ladies  join  them  at  twelve  with  the  lunch. 
The  shots  are  described,  and  the  contents  of  the  game 
bags  admired. 

In  the  afternoon  tea  is  served  in  the  drawing-room  at 
five,  and  another  informal  gathering  takes  place  then. 
Dinner  at  eight  is  always,  in  England,  a  solemn  affair. 
The  gentlemen  have  changed  their  royal  tweed  suits 
for  evening  dress,  and  the  ladies,  also,  are  elaborately 
arrayed. 

The  great  event  in  the  country  is  a  fox  hunt. 
The  gentlemen  of  the  county  usually  own  a  pack  of 
hounds,  which  is  kept  at  the  house  of  some  great 
nobleman.  He  is  consequently  known  as  the  master  of 
the  hounds. 

Before  the  hunt  takes  place,  men  go  around  stopping 
up  the  fox's  burrows,  or  holes.  He  then  has  no  place  of 
retreat,  and  so  is  obliged  to  run  for  his  life  over  the 
open  country. 

On  the  chosen  day  the  riders  gather  at  the  appointed 
place.  It  may  be  either  a  quaint  old  inn,  such  as  "  The 
Red  Boar,"  or  "  The  White  Hart,"  or  the  meeting  of 
four  crossroads.  The  men  wear  pink  coats,  and  perhaps 
white  trousers  and  yellow  gaiters.  A  few  ladies  in 
their  dark  habits  may  be  there,  intending  to  follow  as 
far  as  they  can.  The  rule  is  to  pursue  the  fox  in  a 
straight  line,  leaping  ditches,  Avails,  and  hedges,  and 
even  swimming  rivers. 

The  fox  is  raised,  and  the  deep  bay  of  the  hounds 


46  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

shows  the  direction  of  the  chase.  The  pink  coats  follow 
closely,  recklessly, 

"  Over  hill,  over  dale, 
Through  bush,  through  brier." 

The  words  describing  Puck's  winged  flight  may  serve 
for  the  wild  way  in  which  the  hunters  ride.  After  the 
hunt  is  over,  as  they  return  quietly  along  the  route, 
they  shudder  at  the  frightful  leaps  they  made  in  their 
wild  excitement.  Many  men  are  thrown  and  killed 
yearly. 

The  game  preserves  are  carefully  guarded  by  game- 
keepers, for  the  village  youths,  like  men  of  higher  birth, 
enjoy  shooting.  Robins  and  blue  jays  are  but  small 
prey,  compared  to  partridges,  grouse,  and  the  like.  It 
seems  to  the  country  lad  a  pity  that  all  game  should 
belong  to  the  nobleman,  and  that  it  should  be  thieving 
to  try  a  hand  at  knocking  down  a  bird  at  dusk.  So  he 
yields  to  temptation,  and  goes  hunting  in  the  nobie- 
man's  grounds ;  is  arrested  by  the  gamekeeper ;  and  is 
accused  of  poaching  before  the  chief  magistrate  of  the 
county.  The  penalty  is  imprisonment  for  any  time 
from  three  months  to  two  years.  One  of  these  youths, 
when  asked  if  he  had  anything  to  say  in  his  self-de- 
fence, said  awkwardly,  "  Ah  well !  I  sees  ?un  a  flyin' !  " 

But  it  is  not  all  play  here  in  the  country.  The 
gentleman  has  cottage  repairs  to  make  for  his  tenants, 
and  business  connected  with  his  estates  to  discuss  with 
his  agent. 

The  ladies  employ  themselves  in  works  of  charity. 
They  teach  in  the  Sunday  school,  or  help  the  curate 


MODERN    EUROPE.  47 

in  his  visiting  among  the  ivy-covered  cottages  that 
cluster  so  prettily  along  the  road.  They  also  plan 
entertainments  and  penny  readings  to  delight  the  simple 
rustic  lads  in  corduroys  and  velveteens,  and  the  beauti- 
ful, clear-eyed  girls  with  their  truly  rosy  cheeks.  These 
readings  are  usually  given  in  the  schoolhouse,  and  a 
penny  is  the  small  admission  fee. 

We  have  visited  the  honored  places  in  London,  the 
center  arid  heart  of  England,  and  have  seen  somewhat 
of  city  and  country  life.  Now  let  us  go  to  the  far  north 
of  England;  and,  zigzagging  southward,  let  us  pause 
on  our  way  wherever  there  is  a  place  of  especial  beauty 
or  note. 

The  three  northern  counties  are  Northumberland, 
Cumberland,  and  Westmoreland.  They  are  so  near 
Scotland  that  it  is  not  strange  that  they  should  resemble 
it  somewhat.  They  are  rugged  and  wild,  and  have  low 
hills  carpeted  with  masses  of  purple  heather. 

Cumberland  and  Westmoreland  together  form  what  has 
been  called  the  lake  country.  The  scenery  here  is  ro- 
mantic, and  resembles  somewhat  the  region  about  Lake 
Katrine  in  Scotland.  Here  are  the  small,  picturesque 
lakes  of  Ulleswater,  Durwentwater,  and  Windermere, 
bordered  with  grasses  and  sedges  on  one  side,  while  on 
the  opposite  shore  a  lofty  peak  like  Skiddaw  or  Hel- 
vellyn  rises  upward,  seeming  to  cut  off  half  the  sky. 

One  great  charm  of  this  region  is  that  its  aspect  is 
constantly  changing.  The  misty  clouds  roll  in  from 
the  Atlantic,  and  shadow  the  lakes.  For  ten  minutes 
all  is  dark  and  gloomy  ;  then  comes  a  fresh  breeze ;  the 
clouds  are  driven  away,  and  sunshine  reigns  again. 


48  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

Showers  are  frequent  in  the  lake  region,  but  they 
rarely  last  more  than  a  few  minutes  at  a  time,  and 
serve  to  intensify  the  April-like  character  of  the  region. 

The  roads  of  the  lake  country  are  hilly  and  stony. 
The  way  is  bordered  with  hedges  which  are  tangled 
with  climbing  blossoms.  The  purple  of  the  heather  is 
on  the  hills ;  the  first  breath  of  the  sea  is  in  the  air ; 
and,  growing  by  the  roadside,  is  a  harebell  raising  its 
blue  cup  upon  a  slender  stalk.  It  is  the  true  bluebell 
of  Scotland,  reminding  us  that  not  far  away  is  the 
border  line  of  the  "  dear  north  countrie." 

In  this  delightful  English  Scotland,  several  poets 
lived  at  one  time.  Coleridge  and  Southey  lived  here 
only  part  of  their  lives,  but  Wordsworth,  the  great  poet 
of  nature,  dwelt  here  nearly  all  his  eighty  peaceful 
years. 

Here  he  took  his  evening  strolls  to  watch  the  fading 
sunsets ;  here  he  observed  the  habits  of  the  timid  birds 
and  learned  their  notes.  Coo-coo,  coo-coo  came  to  him 
from  the  cuckoo,  reminding  him  of  his  childhood.  He 
saw  the  lark  rise  high  in  the  air  to  salute  the  ris- 
ing sun,  and  brooded  with  loving  thoughts  over  the 
thrushes,  the  wrens,  and  all  the  humblest  birds.  Un- 
doubtedly this  home  of  his,  surrounded  by  the  loveliest 
scenery  of  England,  fostered  in  him  the  true  spirit  of 
poetry. 

Moving  southward,  we  come  upon  a  dark  belt  of 
manufacturing  towns  girding  England  from  west  to 
east.  Bradford,  Leeds,  Manchester,  and  Sheffield  are 
all  in  this  black  belt.  Tall  chimneys  fill  the  air  with 
smoke.  A  dense  black  cloud  hangs  over  these  cities  by 


MODERN    EUROPE.  49 

day,  and  by  night  fiery  lights  and  flames  come  from 
their  hundreds  of  furnaces.  The  rumble  of  machinery 
adds  to  the  daily  uproar  of  the  streets. 

The  plants  are  sickly  and  covered  with  dust ;  the  dew 
that  falls  is  grimy ;  the  people  are  pale  and  grow  old 
before  their  time.  A  large  proportion  of  them  work  in 
the  factories  and  the  mills. 

What  a  delightful  change  it  is  for  them  to  visit  the 
seaside  during  their  precious  vacation  of  two  weeks ! 

They  generally  seek  the  coast  of  Yorkshire.  This 
coast  is  a  bold  one.  The  cliffs  are  of  chalk,  which  has 
been  carved  by  the  waves  into  the  most  fantastic  forms 
imaginable.  Deep  caves  have  been  hollowed  out, 
where  the  ocean  roars  at  high  tide.  Many  stories  are 
told  of  the  old  days  when  smugglers  hid  their  booty  in 
the  caves  along  the  coast. 

We  must  not  leave  Yorkshire  without  seeing  York 
Cathedral.  There  are  only  two  archbishoprics  in  Eng- 
land, —  Canterbury  and  York.  All  the  other  cathedrals 
belong  to  bishoprics,  and  are  therefore  smaller  and  less 
imposing  than  these  two. 

Many  persons  claim  that  York  Cathedral  is  the  finest 
in  England.  It  is  a  noble-looking  building,  with  its 
grand  front  and  its  stately  western  towers.  The  stained 
glass  of  its  windows  is  unusually  rich  and  glowing. 

The  coast  of  the  country  just  south  of  Yorkshire  is  a* 
complete  contrast.  The  land  is  as  flat,  though  not  quite 
so  low,  as  the  opposite  coast  of  Holland.  The  dark 
brown  streams  wind  through  the  marshes,  sometimes 
forming  a  dark,  sluggish  pool  and  then  again  pushing 
on  their  way  with  a  sullen  persistence.  This  strange, 
uncanny  region  is  the  feu  country  of  England. 


50  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

We  now  enter  Warwickshire,  the  garden  of  England, 
a  region  rich  enough  in  associations  to  claim  us  for  some 
time. 

The  great  play  writer,  William  Shakespeare,  was  born 
in  the  town  of  Stratford-upon-Avon  in  the  county  of 
Warwick.  The  Avon  River  is  a  small,  somewhat  slug- 
gish stream  flowing  through  the  meadows,  and  past  the 
beautiful  little  village  church  where  the  great  poet  is 
buried.  The  water  ripples  over  the  dam,  and  swans 
swim  slowly  about,  just  as  they  did  three  hundred 
years  ago. 

The  river  has  not  changed,  but  the  town  has.  Strat- 
ford was,  until  very  recently,  a  stupid,  quiet  little  place 
with  two  or  three  roads  bordered  by  cottages.  These 
cottages  had  old-fashioned  casements  set  with  diamond 
panes  of  glass  and  porches  covered  by  climbing  roses. 
Now  a  spirit  of  enterprise  has  taken  possession  of  the 
place.  It  has  become  a  small  railroad  center,  and  some 
breweries  have  been  built. 

Shakespeare's  birthplace  is  a  low  wooden  cottage  in 
the  center  of  the  town.  It  has  a  porch  covered  with  a 
curiously  sloping  roof,  above  which  is  a  window  of 
greater  breadth  than  height.  The  roof  has  several  dor- 
mer windows.  On  the  ground  floor  are  the  kitchen 
and  two  bedrooms.  The  kitchen  is  a  good-sized  room 
with  massive  oak  beams  and  a  fine  old  fireplace  the  size 
of  a  small  room.  A  short,  narrow  staircase  leads  to  the 
room  upstairs  where  Shakespeare  is  supposed  to  have 
been  born. 

This  apartment  has  become  a  Mecca  to  all  lovers  of 
literature.  It  is  unfortunate  that  the  earlier  pilgrims 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


51 


found  no  better  vent  to  their  enthusiasm  than  writing 
their  names  upon  the  walls.  The  walls  are  literally 
covered  with  autographs.  No  fresh  one  could  be  added 
without  erasing  one  previously  written.  Dickens  and 
Walter  Scott  have  cut  their  names  on  the  windowpanes, 
and  the  book  in  which  visitors  register  their  names  con- 
tains those  of  Byron,  Keats,  Thackeray,  and  Tennyson. 


SHAKESPEARE'S    BIRTHPLACE. 

There  is  a  silence  that  is  very  impressive  about  the 
house.  This  hush  is  especially  profound  in  the  chamber 
upstairs.  It  is  said  that  some  visitors  have  been  moved 
to  tears,  and  that  others  have  knelt  and  kissed  the  floor. 
One  enthusiastic  stranger  is  reported  to  have  rolled 
over  and  over  on  the  oak  planks,  his  emotions  were  so 
strong.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  he  was  a  Frenchman ;  no 
Englishman  would  have  been  so  absurd. 


52  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  other  rooms  on  the  second  floor  have  been  used 
as  a  museum,  where  are  exhibited  the  very  few  relics  of 
Shakespeare.  We  see  his  chair,  his  desk,  the  box  in 
which  his  will  was  found,  one  of  his  old  letters,  and  a 
portrait,  said  to  be  the  only  true  likeness  in  existence. 
These  relics  are  carefully  guarded;  and  no  one  is 
allowed  to  smoke  or  strike  a  light  in  the  cottage,  lest  it 
should  take  fire. 

Trinity  Church  is  a  beautiful  building.  Its  spire  is  a 
very  graceful  one ;  a  fine  avenue  of  lime  trees  leads  to 
the  door ;  and  there  is  heard  the  rippling  sound  of  the 
Avon  running  past  the  churchyard.  Here  is  a  peaceful 
spot  to  lie  buried  in.  So  Shakespeare  thought.  He  was 
carried  through  the  stately  avenue,  and  laid  to  rest  in 
the  church  chancel.  This  epitaph,  written  by  himself, 
was  carved  upon  the  stone  marking  his  tomb :  — 

"  Dear  friend,  for  Jesus'  sake  forbears 
To  dig  the  dust  enclosed  here ; 
Blessed  be  he  that  spares  these  stones 
And  cursed  be  he  that  moves  my  bones." 

It  is  these  words  which  have  prevented  people  from 
ever  disturbing  the  grave  of  Shakespeare.  It  has  been 
often  discussed.  Many  have  wanted  him  removed  to 
Westminster  Abbey ;  others  have  thought  that  an  exam- 
ination might  settle  perplexing  questions  of  his  identity 
and  establish  the  rightful  likeness  among  his  many  dif- 
ferent pictures.  But  these  few  lines  have  kept  him 
secure. 

It  seems  as  if  the  poet  who  knew  human  nature 
most  profoundly,  had  done  his  utmost  to  make  his  last 


MODERN    EUROPE.  53 

words  effective  by  appealing  to  the  superstitious  awe 
and  dread  of  the  unknown  that  still  lies  deep  in  most 
souls. 

A  short  distance  from  Trinity  Church,  on  the  Avon 
River,  a  memorial  building  has  been  raised  in  the  last 
few  years.  It  contains  a  theatre  modeled  on  those  of 
Shakespeare's  time,  a  library  in  which  it  is  proposed  to 
collect  the  books  written  concerning  the  great  dramatist 
and  his  plays,  and  a  museum.  It  is  hoped  that  any 
objects  of  interest  concerning  Shakespeare  or  his  town 
and  times,  to  be  found  in  the  possession  of  private 
individuals,  may  be  eventually  contributed  to  this 
museum.  The  future  value  and  importance  of  the 
memorial  building  promises  to  be  great. 

Twelve  miles  across  the  fields  from  Stratford  is  Ken- 
ilworth.  This  is  the  first  ruined  castle  that  we  have 
seen.  You  must  not  imagine  it  like  a  large  church 
or  schoolhouse  with  the  walls  partially  falling  down. 
That  is  far  smaller  than  a  true  castle.  Think  of  sev- 
eral acres,  a  space  covering  a  few  squares  and  streets 
of  your  city,  enclosed  by  lofty  walls  and  towers,  sixteen 
feet  in  thickness. 

•  These  towers  and  buildings  of  Kenil worth  Castle  are 
very  ancient,  some  more  so  than  others.  That  square 
tower  was  built  by  the  early  Normans ;  that  banquet- 
ing hall  with  the  fine  pointed  windows  belongs  to  the 
time  of  the  Plantagenets  ;  and  this  range  of  rooms  was 
added  in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth.  The  floors  of  the 
towers  are  gone.  Only  the  sockets  in  the  thick  wall, 
where  the  beams  rested,  and  the  fireplaces  high  in  air, 
show  where  once  there  was  a  room  with  light  and 
warmth  and  cheer. 


54  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  crumbling  walls  owe  their  beauty  to  the  ivy 
climbing  everywhere.  It  fills  the  gaping  windows, 
empty  of  pane  and  sash,  and  waves  its  sprays  along 
the  jagged  walls  like  battle  flags.  The  ivy  of  Ken- 
il worth  Castle  is  of  unusual  luxuriance.  The  trunk 
of  the  ivy  on  the  old  square  tower  is  fully  two  feet 
thick. 

This  castle  was  a  favorite  resort  of  Henry  VIII.,, 
Elizabeth,  and  Charles  I.  Elizabeth  presented  it  to  the 
Earl  of  Leicester,  who  afterwards  entertained  her  here 
most  magnificently.  It  is  said  that  the  decorations 
alone  cost  sixty  thousand  pounds.  You  will  read  all 
about  this  some  day  in  Scott's  novel,  Kenil worth,  where 
much  is  told  concerning  Leicester's  young  and  beauti- 
ful wife,  Amy  Robsart.  It  is  she  whom  tourists  visit- 
ing Kenilworth  most  vividly  recall. 

The  two  universities  of  England  are  Oxford  and 
Cambridge.  Oxford  is  the  older.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Thames,  and  through  the  warm  months  slim  boats  may 
constantly  be  seen  on  the  river,  pulled  by  undergradu- 
ates developing  muscle  for  the  college  races  of  the 
year. 

The  view  of  Oxford  is  impressive.  Multitudes  of 
towers  and  spires  rise  majestically  from  stately  stone 
buildings  enclosing  quadrangular  courts.  No  brick 
chimneys  lessen  the  impressiveness  of  the  hoary  build- 
ings and  their  surroundings  of  gardens,  ponds,  and 
avenues  of  trees.  The  horizon  is  bounded  by  low  hills 
rising  from  the  peaceful  river  valley. 

Each  one  of  these  buildings  is  a  college,  having  its 
own  officers,  teachers,  and  students.  The  colleges  to- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  55 

gether  make  up  the  university.  Some  of  the  colleges 
are  old,  some  new.  Some  are  rich,  others  poor.  Some 
are  famous  for  having  educated  England's  wisest  sons. 
Others  are  the  narrow  but  noted  stage  on  which  great 
revolutions  in  religious  and  political  thought  were 
worked  out. 

Perhaps  the  most  perfect  of  all  the  colleges  is  Mag- 
dalen. It  has  beautiful  meadows  stretching  down  to 
the  river,  a  deer  park,  and  many  fine  old  trees.  One  of 
the  largest  elms  in  England  grows  here.  The  college 
building  itself  is  stately  ;  noble  cloisters  draped  with 
ivy  surround  the  quadrangle;  and  a  lofty  tower  rises 
above  the  whole. 

One  breathes  in  Oxford  an  atmosphere  of  traditionary 
greatness.  Many  customs  are  continued  to  the  present 
day,  just  because  they  were  observed  in  the  past. 
Every  May-day  morning  at  five  o'clock,  the  chapel 
choir  of  Magdalen  mount  to  the  top  of  the  tower  and 
sing  several  hymns.  This  custom  comes  down  from  the 
time  of  Henry  VII. 

The  students  wear  long  dark  robes  and  quaint,  square- 
crowned  caps.  This  has  been  the  college  dress  for 
generations.  In  this  garb  appeared  Dr.  Johnson,  Keble, 
Shelley,  and  Newman. 

Cambridge  University  is  very  much  like  Oxford  in 
its  buildings  and  beautiful  surroundings.  Its  policy  is, 
however,  somewhat  more  liberal.  It  admits  women  to 
its  courses  of  study. 

It  would  be  charming  to  spend  some  time  at  Salisbury, 
beneath  the  shadow  of  its  perfect  spire.  Should  you 
not  like  to  stay  in  one  of  the  few  private  houses  in  the 


56  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

cathedral  enclosure,  and  hear  the  rooks  cawing,  and  see 
the  old  dean  and  his  chapter  passing  through  the  pleas- 
ant courtyard  to  attend  morning  and  evening  service  in 
their  beloved  church? 

It  would  also  be  pleasant  to  visit  Stonehenge  and  its 
broken  circle  of  stones,  relics  of  ages  so  remote  that 
people  differ  as  to  just  how  many  hundreds  of  years  we 
are  to  count  back  toward  the  early  morning  of  the  world's 
history,  to  reach  the  time  when  the  rude  boulders  were 
set  in  place  and  the  ancient  temple  of  worship  was 
formed. 

The  Isle  of  Wight,  off  the  southern  coast  of  England, 
is  a  small  world  of  beauty.  The  climate  is  warm  and 
mild  ;  the  vegetation  is  unusually  luxuriant ;  the  walks 
along  the  downs,  or  high  cliffs  by  the  sea,  are  breezy 
and  delightful ;  and  the  ruined  castle  at  Carrisbrook 
and  the  associations  of  Tennyson  with  the  island  make 
a  residence  at  Ryde  or  Ventnor  exceedingly  attractive. 

But  we  cannot  leave  England  without  seeing  Devon- 
shire, which  has  been  called  the  pearl  of  the  English 
counties.  It  lies  to  the  west,  and  beyond  it  is  Cornwall, 
where  the  usual  hedgerows  of  England  give  way  to 
stone  walls. 

The  Devon  lanes  are  well  known.  They  are  very 
narrow  and  winding.  They  seem  deep  as  well  as  nar- 
row, for  high  banks  rise  on  each  side,  upon  which  grow 
lofty  hedges,  broken  here  and  there  by  an  ancient  oak 
or  elm.  The  trunk  of  the  tree  is  overgrown  with  climb- 
ing plants,  and  the  hedges  are  spangled  with  flowers. 

From  the  mossy  banks  beneath  the  hedges  grow  cow- 
slips, primroses,  and  daffodils,  in  the  springtime.  Later 


MODERN    EUROPE.  57 

in  the  year  wild  flowers  of  more  decided  hues  appear ; 
green,  red,  and  black  berries  are  found;  and  the  old 
stumps  of  trees  are  beautiful  with  mantling  ivy. 

In  the  fall  the  rosy  children  come  trooping  through 
the  lanes  to  gather  blackberries.  Those  are  happy  and 
mild  autumn  days.  The  wild  honeysuckle  sweetens  the 
air  with  its  fragrance ;  the  leaves  burn  and  shine  in  red 
and  yellow  splendor  overhead ;  and  the  busy  bees  hum 
about,  gathering  the  last  honey  of  the  year. 

The  lanes  are  shut  in  on  both  sides,  and  sometimes 
overhead  when  the  lofty  hedges  bend  across  the  narrow 
way  and  hide  the  sky.  But  now  and  then  a  break  in  the 
hedgerow  will  occur  that  affords  a  wide  and  beautiful 
view.  The  hill  perhaps  slopes  abruptly  down  to  a  brown 
trout  stream ;  red  Devon  cattle  stand  up  to  their  shoul- 
ders in  the  grass  and  buttercups,  gazing  tranquilly  at 
the  stranger ;  and  far  away  stretch  plains  bathed  in  a 
purple  light,  due  to  the  abundance  of  heather,  which 
grows  as  profusely  here  as  in  Scotland. 

Further  on,  another  sudden  outlook  is  obtained.  This 
time  it  is  of  the  wide  blue  sea  and  its  few  gleaming  sails. 
That  tall  lighthouse  to  the  south  is  the  Eddy  stone  Light. 
The  sunken  rocks  on  which  it  was  built  had  often 
wrecked  many  a  stout  English  ship,  before  they  .sent 
several  belonging  to  the  rich  merchant  Winstanley  to 
the  bottom  of  the  sea. 

Winstanley  vowed  that,  though  many  unsuccessful 
attempts  had  been  made  to  erect  a  lighthouse  on  those 
rocks,  he  would  begin  and  accomplish  his  task.  So, 
rebuffed  by  the  ocean  many  times,  he  at  last  laid  his 
foundations  and  built  his  light. 


58  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Then  the  people  in  the  southern  seaports  were  glad 
and  proud.  Winstanley  was  also  proud  and  happy. 
"  Now,"  he  said,  "  no  more  shall  those  cruel  rocks  send 
poor  sailors  to  their  death,  for  my  light  is  a  strong  one 
and  will  outlast  any  storm." 

To  show  his  belief  in  its  power  to  weather  any  gale 
that  might  blow,  he  went  out  to  spend  the  night  in  his 
lighthouse  tower  when  a  fearful  storm  was  threatening. 
How  the  wind  howled  and  beat  about  the  houses  on  the 
shore  that  night !  It  was  remembered  for  many  a  long 
year  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  southern  coast.  For  in 
the  morning,  when  they  looked  out,  they  were  horrified 
to  see  that  the  Eddystone  light  was  down  !  Another 
lighthouse  has  since  been  erected  on  the  same  site. 

Winter  on  the  southern  coast  of  Devonshire  is  as 
mild  as  in  Italy.  Invalids  come  here  in  great  numbers, 
and  on  the  beaches  at  Torquay  are  scattered  groups  of 
people,  either  sitting  on  benches  in  the  sunshine  or 
being  pushed  over  the  sands  in  invalid  chairs. 

On  the  northern  coast  of  Devonshire  are  the  quaint 
old  towns  of  Bideford,  Barnstaple,  and  Clovelly.  They 
were  the  birthplaces  of  the  navigators  of  the  reign  of 
Queen  Elizabeth.  These  men  explored  the  New  World, 
and  maintained  the  power  of  England  against  that  of 
Spain,  and  when  the  time  came,  overthrew  the  Armada, 
the  great  fleet  that  Spain  had  despatched  against  Eng- 
land. 

Over  Bideford  bridge  and  through  the  main  street  of 
Clovelly,  Drake,  Hawkins,  Raleigh,  Gilbert,  and  Sir 
Richard  Grenville  once  walked  with  the  proud  step  and 
the  free  glance  that  spoke  of  the  soldier  and  the  sailoi 


MODERN    EUROPE.  59 

of  the  great  Elizabeth.  The  fishermen  of  Devon  seem, 
to  the  traveler  of  to-day,  actually  glorified  by  the  light 
of  other  days. 


CHAPTER  III. 
OVER  THE   BORDER. 

The  Cheviot  Hills  are  the  dividing  line  between 
Scotland  and  England.  Scotland  is  a  small  country, 
smaller  even  than  England.  It  is  mostly  made  up  of 
rugged  hills,  lonely  moors,  and  solitary  little  mountain 
lakes. 

Scotland  might  seem  to  you  a  dull  and  uninteresting 
place.  It  certainly  appeared  so  to  the  English  people 
of  the  seventeenth  century.  The  great  Dr.  Johnson 
made  a  pilgrimage  through  the  country,  and  brought 
home  such  an  adverse  report  of  the  place  and  the  people 
that  the  English  looked  with  contempt  on  Scotland. 
It  contained  nothing  to  interest  the  cultivated,  they 
thought. 

But  times  have  changed.  Sir  Walter  Scott,  the  great 
wizard  of  the  north,  has  come  and  laid  the  spell  of  his 
genius  upon  us.  He  has  opened  up  the  Highlands,  and 
glorified  the  lakes  and  hills  with  his  true  and  lovely 
romances.  The  moors  are  no  longer  lonely,  for  he  has 
peopled  them  with  mailed  warriors  or  curled  cavaliers. 
These  glens  and  passes,  he  tells  us,  were  once  the 
battlefields  of  the  English  forces  and  the  Scotch  High- 
landers who  supported  Prince  Charlie  and  all  the  ex- 


60  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

iled  Stuarts.  So  even  now  you  seem  to  hear  the  clash 
of  swords,  the  twang  of  bowstrings,  and  the  snort  of 
frightened  horses.  No,  Scotland  is  nevermore  a  lonely 
country ;  for  those  regions  which  show  no  signs  of 
present  life,  are  most  peopled  with  men  and  women  of 
the  past. 

The  eastern  and  western  coasts  of  Scotland  are  very 
different.  The  eastern  coast  is  much  the  more  regular. 
It  has  only  a  few  large  bays,  or  friths,  and  the  land 
slopes  gently  from  the  interior  to  the  shore.  The  rivers 
are  broad  and  quiet,  and  have  wide  valleys  suitable  for 
agriculture.  The  region  is  fertile,  and  the  land  can  be 
cultivated  almost  down  to  the  water's  edge. 

The  western  coast  is  mountainous.  Lofty  peaks 
raise  their  heads  into  an  almost  continual  atmosphere  of 
rain  clouds.  The  shore  line  is  much  broken  by  deep, 
narrow  friths  running  into  the  land.  Brawling  streams 
rush  from  the  mountain  side  to  the  sea,  washing  out  the 
earth  and  making  valleys  as  they  go.  Many  groups  of 
islands,  both  large  and  small,  skirt  the  coast.  These 
islands  are  as  rocky  and  barren  as  the  shores  which  they 
border. 

The  northern  half  of  Scotland  is  mountainous,  while 
the  southern  half  consists  of  lower  and  more  level  land. 
The  name  Highlands  has  been  given  to  the  northern 
half  of  Scotland;  that  of  Lowlands  to  the  southern 
half. 

The  line  dividing  the  Highlands  from  the  Lowlands 
must  be  considered  as  drawn  from  Glasgow  on  the  west- 
ern coast,  to  Stonehaven  on  the  eastern  coast.  It  is  a 
very  interesting  fact  that  the  mountain  ranges  and  priu- 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


62  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

cipal  valleys  run  parallel  to  that  dividing  line.  Even 
the  friths  pierce  the  coast  in  lines  parallel  to  it. 

Edinburgh,  the  capital  of  Scotland,  is  situated  in  the 
Lowlands  near  the  Frith  of  Forth.  From  the  midst  of 
the  plain  rises  a  lofty  ridge  of  rock.  The  outlook  over 
the  surrounding  plains  and  hills  is  a  fine  one.  The 
early  Scots,  recognizing  how  easily  this  spot  could  be 
defended  against  an  enemy,  built  a  castle  here ;  a  colony 
of  peasants  settled  at  the  foot  of  the  crag;  and  thus 
Edinburgh  was  founded. 

It  reminds  the  traveler  strongly  of  Quebec.  In  both 
cities  there  is  the  same  lofty  fortress,  the  same  old  town 
with  tall,  quaint  houses  clustering  thickly  up  the  slopes 
of  the  hill,  and  the  same  new  town  with  its  orderly  ar- 
rangement of  broad  streets  and  its  well-built  houses  of 
modern  date.  Quebec  has  its  St.  Lawrence  ;  Edinburgh 
has  its  Forth  and  glimpse  of  the  breezy  sea.  Quebec 
has  a  wide  outlook  over  the  Canadian  farms  and  hills ; 
Edinburgh  commands  an  equally  interesting  view  of  the 
Pentland  Hills  to  the  south  and  of  the  Salisbury  Crags 
nearer  at  hand. 

Edinburgh  has  also  been  likened  to  Athens.  The 
citizens  were  much  pleased  by  this  comparison.  Per- 
haps they  thought  that  the  resemblance  went  deeper 
than  the  mere  physical  features  of  the  town,  and  included 
the  people  as  well.  At  all  events,  they  thought  it  an 
excellent  plan  to  try  to  increase  the  likeness  between 
Athens  and  Edinburgh. 

One  of  the  landmarks  of  Athens  is  a  building  called 
the  Parthenon,  which  stands  on  a  hill.  The  Scotch 
started  to  erect  an  exact  copy  of  it  upon  the  summit  of 


MODERN    EUROPE.  63 

a  hill  within  their  town.  They  intended  it  as  a  monu- 
ment to  the  Scotch  soldiers  who  fell  at  Waterloo.  The 
building  has  never  been  finished.  Thus,  all  uncon- 
sciously, its  resemblance  to  the  ruined  Parthenon  has 
been  increased. 

Of  course  the  most  interesting  object  in  Edinburgh  is 
the  castle.  It  consists  of  a  large  number  of  massive 
buildings  surrounding  a  huge  court.  The  most  ancient 
of  these  buildings  is  over  nine  hundred  years  old.  On 
three  sides  the  hill  descends  abruptly  to  the  valley  be- 
low. The  fourth  side  slopes  more  gradually;  and,  in 
time  of  war,  it  was  this  face  which  needed  to  be  most 
carefully  guarded  and  defended. 

Within  the  castle  is  a  confusing  array  of  chambers, 
twisted  corridors,  and  low  vaulted  passages.  But  for 
the  guide,  we  should  be  hopelessly  lost  in  the  winding 
maze.  The  rooms  occupied  by  the  sovereigns  of  Scot- 
land at  different  times  are  here  shown. 

On  the  south  side  of  the  castle  is  the  chamber  in 
which  James  VI.  of  Scotland,  son  of  Mary  Stuart,  was 
born.  This  happened  in  stormy  times.  His  mother 
had  many  political  enemies.  When  James  was  only  a 
few  days  old,  it  was  necessary  to  lower  him  in  a  basket 
from  the  castle.  In  this  way  he  escaped  from  falling 
into  the  hands  of  his  mother's  enemies. 

Think  of  the  little  creature  descending  a  hundred 
feet  in  a  swaying  basket.  If  the  cord  had  given  way, 
the  Stuarts  would  never  have  come  to  the  English 
throne,  and  history  would  have  been  very  different. 

The  Scottish  crown  jewels  are  kept  in  the  castle,  be- 
neath plate  glass  protected  by  an  iron  cage.  Their 


64  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS.  PEOPLE. 

number  is  small,  although,  when  the  last  of  the  Stuarts 
died,  the  family  jewels  were  returned  to  Scotland.  Per- 
haps the  most  reverenced  article  is  the  crown  of  Robert 
Bruce,  the  defender  of  the  liberties  of  Scotland  against 
the  powerful  Edwards  of  England. 

Holyrood  Palace  to  the  east  of  the  castle  is  a  solid, 
quadrangular  structure  of  stone.  Its  front  is  flanked 
by  double  towers  of  great  strength.  The  building  is  a 
plain  but  substantial  one,  and  it  is  rendered  exceedingly 
interesting  from  its  associations  with  Mary  Stuart,  who 
is  perhaps  the  most  well-known  character  in  Scottish 
history. 

She  is  remembered  for  her  fascinating  beauty,  her 
varied  life,  and  her  mournful  end  on  the  scaffold.  The 
world  has  always  differed  in  its  judgment  of  Mary. 
Many  have  thought  her  as  good  as  she  was  beautiful ; 
others  have  believed  that  her  lovely  face  was  the  fair 
mask  that  hid  a  deceitful  and  unscrupulous  character. 

Mary  was  married  to  her  second  husband,  Lord 
Darnley,  in  Holyrood  Chapel,  which  forms  part  of  the 
palace.  The  chapel  is  a  lovely  ruin.  There  is  no  roof 
to  the  chancel,  but  the  walls  still  stand,  holding  beauti- 
fully shaped  windows,  adorned  with  elegant  tracery. 
Grass  is  growing  on  the  stones  over  which  the  bridal 
procession  passed  to  the  altar,  now  marked  by  broken 
slabs. 

Within  the  palace,  Mary's  reception  room  and  bed- 
room may  be  seen.  The  reception  room  is  a  fine  large 
hall,  with  paneled  ceiling  and  carved  walls.  Coats  of 
arms  and  initials  appear  on  all  sides.  A  large  bedstead 
hung  with  embossed  velvet  occupies  a  prominent  place 


MODERN    EUROPE.  65 

in  the  room.  Upon  the  embroidered  pillow  two  of  the 
most  unfortunate  Stuarts  have  laid  their  heads.  One 
\vas  Charles  I.,  and  the  other  was  the  young  'Pretender, 
.vho  slept  here  before  the  battle  of  Culloden. 

Mary's  bedroom  is  only  a  small  apartment,  but  its 
walls  are  hung  with  French  tapestry.  The  curtains 
and  the  crimson  counterpane  of  the  bed  are  faded,  tat- 
tered, and  threadbare.  An  unfinished  piece  of  her 
needlework  is  kept  here.  While  you  are  examining  the 
work  of  the  fair  queen  with  interest,  and  are  imagining 
the  happy  and  peaceful  hours  she  spent  over  it,  the 
attendant  opens  a  door  and  reveals  a  narrow  flight  of 
•stairs  with  dark  stains  upon  them.  Instantly  a  dark 
scene  of  Mary's  life  is  recalled. 

She  is  taking  tea  in  her  room  with  her  ladies  and 
Rizzio,  her  secretary.  Rizzio  has  so  much  power  over 
Mary  that  the  Scottish  nobles  are  jealous  of  him,  the 
more  so  as  he  is  a  foreigner.  In  the  midst  of  the  gay 
little  tea,  a  few  nobles  led  by  Darnley  come  up  the 
private  staircase.  Their  looks  are  dark  and  threaten- 
ing. Rizzio  knows  they  have  come  for  him.  He  im- 
plores Mary  to  protect  him.  She  commands  the  nobles 
to  do  him  no  harm;  but,  not  heeding  her  words,  they 
drug  the  helpless  Rizzio  through  the  doorway  and  kill 
him  on  the  stairs.  Those  dark  murks  that  we  see  to- 
day are  his  blood  stains. 

Let  us  turn  to  a  monument  that  awakens  only  glad 
and  happy  thoughts.  It  is  that  of  Sir  Walter  Scott, 
who,  though  born  in  Edinburgh,  is  held  in  grateful  re- 
membrance by  every  town  and  village  throughout  Scot- 
land. 


66  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  architect,  Mr.  Kemp,  had  studied  Roslyn  Chapel 
and  Melrose  Abbey  with  enthusiastic  love.  They  are 
considered  to  be  the  finest  styles  in  Scotland  of  the 
florid  Gothic  architecture.  With  his  mind  full  of  the 
lines  of  these  beautiful  buildings,  he  designed  the  mon- 
ument to  Scott  which  he  longed  to  make  of  equal 
beauty. 

He  succeeded.  It  is  acknowledged  to  be  one  of  the 
finest  monuments  in  the  world.  It  occupies  a  pleasing 
and  conspicuous  site,  and  encloses  a  noble  marble  statue 
of  the  author. 

A  pleasant  excursion  southward  from  Edinburgh  is  to 
Melrose.  This  town  is  famous  for  its  beautiful  abbey, 
which  Scott  has  described,  in  one  of  his  poems,  with  the 
silver  moonlight  flooding  it.  Melrose  Abbey  is  five 
hundred  years  old.  It  is  now  a  ruin  from  which,  till 
recently,  people  felt  at  perfect  liberty  to  take  stone  to 
use  for  building  material.  One  valued  relic  of  the  abbey 
is  the  heart  of  Robert  Bruce. 

Not  far  from  Melrose  are  Abbotsford,  the  home  of  Sir 
Walter,  and  Dry  burgh  Abbey,  his  burial  place.  Abbots- 
ford  was  once  a  mere  shooting  lodge  ;  but  Scott  improved 
and  added  to  it,  until  it  became  a  lordly  mansion,  a 
p'alace  fit  for  the  abiding  place  of  his  princely  spirit. 

The  study  is  the  room  which  seems  to  bring  visitors 
most  nearly  into  the  presence  of  the  dead  writer.  Here 
one  sees  the  chair  in  which  he  sat,  the  desk  at  which  he 
wrote,  the  reference  books  he  used  while  writing  such 
novels  as  "  Ivanhoe,"  "  Kenilworth,"  and  "  The  Abbot." 

Both  the  hall,  with  its  lofty  ceiling  and  its  armorial 
shields,  and  the  library,  with  its  valuable  store  of  twenty 


MODERN    EUROPE.  67 

thousand  books,  are  fine  rooms.  But  what  boys  would 
like  the  best  is  the  armory.  Sir  Walter  made  a  collec- 
tion of  arms  of  different  periods.  They  range  from  bows 
and  arrows  and  Roman  spears  to  muskets  and  rifles  of 
the  present  century.  Here  you  may  see  several  queer 
instruments  of  torture,  as  well  as  Rob  Roy's  gun,  marked 
with  his  initials,  and  Napoleon  Bonaparte's  pistol. 

The  last  suit  of  clothes  that  Scott  wore  is  exhibited 
at  Abbotsford.  It  is  very  plain  in  style  and  material. 
Scott  was  almost  rustic  in  his  dress,  and  his  manners 
were  exceedingly  simple. 

Although  lame,  he  delighted  in  long  tramps  across  the 
pleasant  country  surrounding  his  home.  It  was  quite 
usual  for  him,  of  a  bright  morning,  to  call  his  many  fine 
dogs  and  set  off  on  a  three  hours'  tramp  through  the 
charming  valley  of  the  Tweed.  He  always  had  a  kind 
word  for  the  peasants  he  met.  Often  he  entered  into 
conversation  with  them,  and  at  such  times,  he  was 
doubtless  making  studies  of  character  that  would  prove 
valuable  to  him  afterwards. 

Scotland  is  full  of  old  castles.  The  one,  however, 
most  noted,  after  Edinburgh,  is  Stirling  Castle.  This 
castle  was  an  important  one,  as  it  is  situated  at  the  head 
of  the  Forth.  Like  Edinburgh,  it  is  built  on  a  bluff 
rising  abruptly  from  a  plain,  through  which  the  rfvrr 
Forth  winds  its  way  in  many  silver  links. 

Stories  of  sieges  and  bombardments,  of  secret  assassi- 
nations, of  plots  and  counterplots,  might  be  told  concern- 
ing this  weather-beaten  old  fortress.  There  are  relics" 
within  the  stout  walls  associated  with  the  Earls  of 
Douglas,  and  with  John  Knox,  the  famous  Scotch 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  69 

preacher.  But  we  cannot  pause  now,  as  we  are  just 
entering  the  Highlands. 

The  most  famous  region  in  all  the  Highlands  is  that 
immediately  surrounding  Loch  Katrine.  The  country 
here  consists  of  many  lofty  mountains  and  ranges  of 
hills.  In  the  valleys  between  the  hills  lie  beautiful 
lakes.  They  are  none  of  them  large.  Loch  Lomond, 
the  largest,  is  about  twenty-five  miles  long  and  ten  miles 
wide. 

The  lakes  are  studded  with  small  islands.  Some  are 
mere  rocks  bearing  aloft  a  solitary  cluster  of  pines. 
Others  cover  an  acre,  and  are  suitable  for  cultivation. 

In  the  center  of  Loch  Katrine  is  Ellen's  Isle.  Ellen 
was  the  daughter  of  a  banished  Earl  of  Douglas,  who 
made  his  home  here  in  secret.  Scott  has  made  her  the 
heroine  of  one  of  his  poems,  called  "  The  Lady  of  the 
Lake." 

Ellen  is  the  fair  and  gentle  lady  who  used  to  row  on 
Loch  Katrine,  and  watch  for  hours  the  play  of  light  and 
shade  on  the  rugged  sides  of  Ben  An  and  Ben  Venue. 
She  hardly  knew  whether  she  most  preferred  the  morn- 
ing glow  on  the  green  hills  and  the  blue  peaks,  or  the 
evening  light  on  the  lake,  which  changed  its  waters  and 
shores  to  rich  purple  tints. 

How  varieijrnd  picturesque  the  shores  seemed  to  the 
Highland  gmfas  she  let  her  eye  move  from  the  edge  of 
the  lake  up,  up,  to  the  bold  summit  of  Ben  An !  The 
lake  was  bordered  with  weeping  willows,  whose  droop- 
ing branches  swept  its  surface.  Here  and  there  the 
willows  gave  place  to  sandy  beaches  sprinkled  with 
gleaming  white  pebbles. 


70  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  lower  spurs  of  the  hills  were  covered  with  gray 
aspens  and  birch  trees.  Above,  sturdy  ashes  and  oaks 
anchored  themselves  against  the  mountain  winds,  by 
sending  strong  supporting  roots  downward  into  the 
crevices  between  the  rocks.  Above  these  waved  grace- 
ful pines,  while  the  higher  mountain  slopes  were  cov- 
ered with  heather. 

Still  higher,  vegetation  ceased,  and  the  bald  gray 
crown  of  the  mountain  appeared  in  all  its  stern  impres- 
siveness.  Here  was  the  home  of  the  fierce-eyed  eagle. 

The  woods  on  the  lower  slopes  were  bright  with 
flowers,  which  flourished  notwithstanding  the  shade 
and  the  constant  showers.  Hawthorn  shrubs  put  forth 
pink  and  white  blossoms,  and  violets,  foxgloves,  prim- 
roses, and  harebells  were  plentiful.  The  deadly  night- 
shade grew  here,  while  the  brier  rose  covered  many  a 
rocky  slope  with  its  green  streamers.  Larks  sang  high 
in  the  sky,  and  the  note  of  the  blackbird  and  the 
speckled  thrush  sounded  in  the  wood.  Amid  such  sur- 
roundings dwelt  the  Lady  of  the  Lake. 

Every  year  coaches  and  the  small  lake  steamers  carry 
tourists  through  this  charming  region.  They  all  hold 
copies  of  Scott's  "Lady  of  the  Lake,"  to  which  they 
refer  at  every  turn.  It  has  been  agreed  that  no  better 
guidebook  of  the  locality  has  been  published  than  this 
celebrated  poem. 

But  as  yet  we  have  seen  only  a  small  part  of  the 
Highlands.  On  the  northern  side  of  the  Grampian 
Hills  is  Balmoral  Castle,  the  summer  residence  of 
Queen  Victoria,  and  still  farther  north  is  the  interest- 
ing Caledonian  Canal. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  71 

There  was  a  deep  natural  valley  in  the  place  where 
the  canal  was  cut.  This  valley  was  partially  filled  by 
Loch  Ness  and  several  smaller  lakes.  In  order  to  save 
time  for  vessels  passing  between  the  east  and  west 
coasts  of  Scotland,  the  Caledonian  Canal  was  made. 
Only  twenty-three  miles  of  cutting  were  necessary,  as 
lakes  occupied  the  rest  of  the  channel.  One  end  of  the 
canal  is  at  Fort  William ;  the  other  is  at  Inverness. 

Scotland,  north  of  the  Grampians,  consists  chiefly  of 
lofty  mountains  and  lonely  and  endless  wastes  of  moor- 
land. The  moors  are  covered  with  the  heather  and  the 
broom.  The  heather  is  a  small  prickly  shrub  that  bears 
a  cluster  of  purplish  pink  flowers.  The  broom  is  a 
stronger,  taller  plant,  which  becomes  a  mass  of  yellow 
glory  in  the  fall. 

The  Scotchmen  love  their  moors  passionately.  The 
bare  sweep  of  ground,  the  gray  sky  overhead,  the  stream 
flowing  through  its  rocky  valley  with  no  overhanging 
tree  on  its  shores,  all  seem  dearer  and  lovelier  to  him 
than  the  sleekest  English  landscape  or  most  fertile 
Italian  plain.  The  green  heather,  the  golden  broom, 
the  purple  thistle,  satisfy  Scotch  hearts. .  Scott  used  to 
say,  "  If  I  could  not  see  the  heather  once  a  year,  1 
should  die"  And  that  is  the  unvoiced  feeling  of  many 
of  the  peasant  farmers  and  rough  shepherds  who  tend 
their  flocks  of  sheep  on  the  uplands. 

The  deer  hunting  and  salmon  fishing  attract  English- 
men and  sometimes  Americans.  The  poor  Scotch  fcrds 
find  it  exceedingly  profitable  to  let  their  preserves  of 
game  and  their  Highland  moors  to  these  young  men 
with  full  purses.  The  young  hunter  from  the  south 


72  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

lives  in  the  shooting  box  through  the  late  summer  and 
fall,  and  perhaps  induces  a  friend  or  two  to  share  his 
solitude  with  a  promise  of  a  fine  pair  of  deer  horns. 

They  go  out  in  charge  of  the  old  gamekeeper  and 
tramp  over  miles  and  miles  of  moorland,  wade  streams, 
climb  up  hillsides,  and  lie  hours  in  the  wet  bracken,  for 
the  chance  of  a  shot  at  the  red  deer.  A  pelting  storm 
comes  on ;  but  they  must  only  turn  up  their  coat  col- 
lars, and  draw  down  their  hat  brims,  and  plod  on  more 
sturdily  after  old  Roderick  or  Donald.  If  the  shower 
turns  into  a  severe  storm,  the  keeper  may  perhaps  con- 
sent to  let  the  party  shelter  itself  beneath  an  overhang- 
ing bank  until  the  rain  clouds  blow  away. 

Salmon  fishing  is  only  less  exciting.  To  handle  a 
long  line,  to  trail  it  to  and  fro  over  a  dark  foamy  pool 
lying  just  below  a  roaring  miniature  waterfall,  to  see 
the  speckled  darling  lying  in  the  shade,  and  to  tempt 
him  continually  with  a  brilliant  London  fly, —  this  is 
indeed  delightful.  But  oh,  the  joy,  the  fierce  glow  of 
the  contest,  when  a  salmon  is  fairly  hooked  and  is  fight- 
ing for  life  at  the  far  end  of  the  line,  bending  and 
swaying  the  rod  in  the  trembling  hands  of  the  eager 
fisherman.  At  last  the  line  is  wound  in ;  the  salmon 
exhausted ;  and  old  Donald,  with  one  dip  of  the  gaff, 
lands  the  silvery  fish  upon  the  bank.  Here  he  lies  amid 
the  crushed  ferns.  A  beauty !  a  monster  of  his  kind  !  a 
twenty-pounder  !  Another  fly,  good  Donald,  and  we 
vvilftry  it  again. 

Such  are  the  delights  of  the  Highlands. 

On  the  western  coast,  at  the  mouth  of  the  River 
Clyde,  stands  Glasgow,  the  largest  and  most  prosperous 


MODERN    EUROPE.  73 

city  in  Scotland.  This  is  the  city  of  James  Watt,  the 
inventor  of  the  steam  engine.  It  is  through  his  inven- 
tion that  Glasgow  is  the  rich  city  she  is  to-day.  Her 
great  industry  is  the  building  of  steamboats  and  fitting 
them  with  engines.  Frequently  steamboats  built  else- 
where are  sent  here  to  be  supplied  with  engines.  Two- 
thirds  of  all  the  steamships  owned  by  Great  Britain 
were  made  at  Glasgow.  Besides  these,  there  are  hun- 
dreds and  thousands  of  steamships  manufactured  for 
other  countries. 

The  docks  on  both  sides  of  the  Clyde,  the  immense 
shipyards  covering  many  acres  and  employing  thousands 
of  men,  the  forests  of  lofty  smoking  chimneys  shooting 
up  all  over  the  city,  impress  the  traveler  immediately 
with  the  industry  of  Glasgow.  The  manufacture  of 
cast  iron  and  wrought  iron  is  a  profitable  business. 
Glasgow  has  also  chemical  works,  cotton  and  woolen 
mills,  and  establishments  for  the  extensive  production 
of  pottery  and  glass. 

Ayr  is  a  county  to  the  south  of  Glasgow,  which  is 
celebrated  for  having  been  the  home  of  the  poet,  Robert 
Burns.  He  wrote  little  songs  about  the  hills,  the 
streams,  and  the  flowers  of  his  native  land.  English- 
speaking  people  know  them  so  well  that  the  mere  men- 
tion of  a  familiar  place  in  Ayrshire,  such  as  the  Yar- 
row, or  Doon  River,  seems  music  in  their  ears,  as  it  in- 
stantly recalls  some  sweet  little  song  of  Burns. 

The  Scotch  people  love  Robbie  Burns  dearly.  His 
poems  are  known  by  heart  both  by  young  and  old,  and 
his  memory  is  green  throughout  Scotland.  The  money 
for  the  monument  to  Burns  in  Glasgow  was  chiefly 


74  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS    PEOPLE. 

obtained  through  sixpenny  and  shilling  contributions 
of  the  poor. 

Burns  was  born  in  a  village  a  few  miles  from  Ayr. 
His  home,  a  low  cottage  with  a  thatched  roof  and  quaint 
windows,  standing  close  to  the  village  street,  may  still 
be  seen.  The  interior  of  the  cottage  is  a  picture  of 
neatness  with  its  whitewashed  walls  and  pipe-clayed 
stone  floor.  An  old  dresser  set  with  gleaming  dishes 
stands  at  one  end  of  the  room. 

One  of  the  most  amusing  poems  of  Burns  is  "  Tarn 
O'Shanter."  The  scene  of  the  story  was  laid  in  this 
very  neighborhood. 

Tarn  O'Shanter  had  been  drinking  with  companions 
at  a  well-known  inn  in  Glasgow.  It  grew  late ;  and, 
the  company  breaking  up,  Tam  mounted  his  horse,  and 
rode  towards  home.  It  was  a  dark  night,  but  Tam  was 
bold  as  a  lion.  Passing  by  Alloway  Kirk,  the  village 
church,  he  saw  a  bright  light,  and  heard  unusual  sounds 
of  festivity.  It  seemed  strange  to  him  that  the  church 
should  be  the  place  selected  for  merrymaking  at  that 
time  of  the  night.  He  peeked  in  stealthily,  and  beheld 
a  company  of  witches  dancing  in  the  holy  place. 

He  watched  them  for  awhile,  and  then  started  home. 
But  the  witches  had  discovered  him,  and  they  started 
after  him  on  their  broomstick  steeds.  Tarn's  horse  was 
mad  with  terror,  and  went  like  the  wind;  but  the 
witches  were  fleeter.  They  were  gaining  on  him,  and 
no  one  knows  what  fearful  punishment  he  might  have 
received,  when  his  horse  with  one  last  desperate  effort 
clattered  over  the  Brig  of  Doon.  With  a  cry  of  baffled 
rage  the  witches  turned  and  fled ;  for  you  know  that, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  75 

as  witches  cannot  cross  running  water,  Tarn  was  safe  as 
soon  as  he  passed  the  middle  of  the  bridge. 

Don't  you  think  that  is  a  good  story  ?  In  Ayr  they 
show  the  very  inn  from  which  Tarn  started  that  night. 
It  is  now  called  in  his  honor,  The  Tarn  O'Shanter  Inn. 
Here  may  be  seen  his  chair  and  the  cup  from  which  he 
drank  on  that  eventful  night. 

Not  far  from  the  birthplace  of  Burns  is  Alloway 
Kirk,  and  the  Brig  of  Doon  still  crosses  the  lovely 
stream,  whose  flowing  waters  saved  Tarn's  life  and  also 
inspired  Burns  to  write  one  of  his  best  known  and  most 
beautiful  songs.  It  begins,  "  Ye  banks  and  braes  o' 
bonny  Doon."  Other  well-known  poems  of  his  are 
"  Scots,  wha  hae  wi'  Wallace  bled,"  "  A  Man's  a  Man 
for  a'  that,"  and  "  Auld  Lang  Syne." 

Any  account  of  Scotland  would  seem  incomplete 
without  mention  of  the  Hebrides  that  fringe  its  western 
shores.  At  Oban  the  tourist  takes  the  little  steamer 
which  cruises  among  the  islands  far  out  on  the  surging 
Atlantic  billows.  It  is  said  that 'there  are,  in  all,  four 
hundred  and  ninety  islands  of  the  Hebrides,  but  only 
one-fourth  of  them  are  inhabited.  Fully  one-half  of 
them  are  barren  rocks,  with  perhaps  pasturage  for  half 
a  dozen  sheep. 

The  landscape  is  strange  out  here.  It  seems  as  if  the 
sea  were  all  islands,  so  thickly  are  they  scattered  about. 
Most  of  them  are  black  mountains  rising  most  forbid- 
dingly above  the  white  breakers,  which  gnaw  and  chafe 
at  their  feet.  The  Atlantic  booms  in  their  caves,  and 
seabirds  rise  and  wing  away  over  the  waves.  They 
may  scream,  but  no  one  hears  them,  as  the  thunder  of 
the  sea  drowns  all  lesser  sounds. 


76  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

At  sunset  these  islands  and  the  surface  of  the  ocean 
are  flooded  with  purple,  green,  blue,  and  crimson  light. 
Perhaps  a  distant  peak  rises  dark  against  the  western 
sky. 

The  largest  islands  are  Mull,  Skye,  and  the  Lewis. 
Like  all  the  Hebrides,  they  consist  of  desolate  moorland, 
lofty  mountains,  and  lonely  lakes.  The  lakes  are  occa« 
sionally  surrounded  by  bogs  or  swamps.  Rain  falls  much 
of  the  time.  The  people  live  in  small  stone  or  earthen 
cottages,  and  burn  peat,  which  they  cut  on  the  moors. 

Stornaway  on  the  Lewis  is  the  principal  town  of  the 
Hebrides  Islands.  It  is  a  growing  fishing-port;  boats 
are  drawn  up  on  the  beach,  and  nets  and  tackle  lie  around 
in  picturesque  confusion. 

Of  the  small  islands,  the  most  interesting  are  lona 
and  Staffa.  lona  has  a  ruined  chapel  five  hundred  years 
old.  In  the  sixth  century,  a  monastery  was  founded 
here  by  a  good  old  monk  called  St.  Colomba,  who  came 
from  Ireland  on  a  missionary  tour.  The  chapel  is  named 
for  him,  the  Church  of  St.  Colomba. 

It  is  quite  an  interesting  little  building.  The  carv- 
ing is  excellent ;  and  the  gray  stone  walls  and  pave- 
ments are  beautified  by  a  small  yellow  flower,  which 
grows  in  the  crevices  of  the  stones. 

Staffa,  a  smaller  and  bolder  island  than  lona,  contains 
the  celebrated  Fingal's  Cave.  This  cave  is  two  hundred 
feet  deep,  sixty  feet  high,  and  thirty  feet  broad  at  its 
entrance.  The  excursion  steamers  send  off  parties  in 
small  boats  to  visit  it.  The  floor  of  the  strange  cavern 
is  the  sea,  while  its  walls  are  columns  curiously  wrought 
by  the  action  of  the  waves  into  strong  resemblances  to 


MODERN    EUROPfc. 


77 


FIN  GAL'S   CAVE. 


78  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

the  pillars  of  a  cathedral.  Within,  the  water  appears 
of  an  intense  blue,  brightened  by  the  reflection  of  the 
light  from  without. 

From  the  farthest  depths  of  the  cave  comes  a  hollow 
roaring.  It  is  the  sound  of  the  sea,  echoing  and  reecho- 
ing in  the  far  interior.  When  great  storms  arise,  the 
sound  of  the  sea  in  Fingal's  Cave  is  like  the  crash  of 
cannon.  The  little  boats  are  rocked  gently  by  the  At- 
lantic swell  to-day.  But  in  bad  weather  the  fisherman's 
boat  is  lost,  that  drifts  into  the  mighty  tide  setting 
towards  Staffa.  • 


CHAPTER  IV. 
WHEKE    THE    SHAMROCK    GROWS. 

Ireland  is  west  of  the  island  of  Great  Britain.  It  is, 
of  all  the  continent  of  Europe,  the  land  that  lies  near- 
est to  the  New  World  on  the  farther  side  of  the  tossing 
Atlantic. 

Ireland  is  a  picturesque  and  interesting  country.  It 
consists  of  a  great  central  plain  bordered  on  the  north 
and  south  by  ranges  of  mountains.  These  mountains, 
when  softened  by  distance,  are  a  misty  blue  or  gray; 
but  near  at  hand,  they  are  seen  to  be  black  and  threat- 
ening. 

Down  their  sides  dash  torrents,  whose  white  foam 
contrasts  strongly  with  the  dark  rocks  on  either  hand. 
When  the  torrents  reach  the  valleys,  they  either  expand 
into  broad  streams  bordered  by  trees,  bushes,  and  vines 


MODERN    EUROPE.  79 

of  an  almost  tropical  wildness  and  richness  of  growth, 
or  else  they  glide  sullenly  and  almost  imperceptibly 
through  a  bog  or  swamp. 

Bogs  are  abundant  in  Ireland.  There  is  a  broad  belt 
of  bog  land  extending  across  the  island,  from  Limerick 
on  the  west  coast  to  Dublin  on  the  east.  Long  ago  this 
region  was  covered  by  a  forest  of  grand  oaks.  Gradu- 
ally moss  and  other  plants  gathered  on  the  trunks  and 
branches  of  the  oaks.  They  sent  their  roots  down  into 
the  wood,  and  took  for  themselves  the  sap  that  the  faith- 
ful roots  of  the  oaks  had  gathered.  The  trees  grew 
feebler ;  then  they  died,  and  fell  to  the  ground. 

They  were  succeeded  by  a  forest  of  firs.  But  they,  in 
their  turn,  were  killed  by  the  moss,  and  added  them- 
selves to  the  pile  of  decaying  wood  on  the  ground. 

Other  plants  sprang  up  and  died.  Ages  passed,  and 
to-day  we  find,  in  the  place  of  the  ancient  forests,  a 
peat  bog  many  square  miles  in  extent. 

The  depth  of  the  bog  is  from  twenty-five  to  forty 
feet.  The  vegetable  matter  composing  it  varies  in 
color,  according  to  the  depth.  Near  the  surface  it  is 
light  brown.  At  a  depth  of  thirty  feet  it  is  dark 
brown,  almost  black.  It  resembles  coal,  and  would  un- 
doubtedly have  become  coal  in  the  course  of  a  few  more 
centuries. 

The  turf  forming  the  bog,  which  is  known  as  peat,  is 
cut  up  into  squares,  and  dried  in  the  open  air  and 
scanty  sunshine.  It  is  then  stored  in  the  cottages,  and 
used  for  fuel.  Peat  burns  with  a  pale  blue  smoke, 
which  may  be  seen  rising  from  the  rude  thatch-covered 
chimneys  of  the  humble  cottages  throughout  Ireland. 


80  THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

It  also  gives  out  a  peculiar  odor,  which  is  delightful  to 
those  who  are  used  to  it. 

The  deep  holes  made  by  the  cutting  of  peat  often  fill 
with  water.  As  all  the  water  passing  through  a  bog  is 
changed  to  a  gloomy  black,  these  holes  are  not  easily 
seen.  They  are,  therefore,  dangerous  to  any  one  who 
has  lost  his  way. 

Like  Scotland,  Ireland  has  many  castles,  but  they  are 
not  as  well  known  to  the  world  as  those  of  her  sister 
countries  of  England  and  Scotland.  Lofty  promon- 
tories running  out  into  the  sea,  solitary  islands  in 
secluded  little  lakes,  or  barren  hillsides  commanding 
the  surrounding  plains  are  the  sites  that  have  been 
chosen  for  castles.  Many  of  them  are  in  ruins,  and  add 
to  the  beauty  of  the  scenery. 

The  floors  m^y  have  fallen  in,  the  windows  may  be 
sashless,  and  the  ornaments  defaced.  An  oak  may  be 
growing  in  the  centre  of  the  old  dining-hall,  and  pigs 
and  chickens  from  the  neighboring  village  may  be  wan- 
dering through  the  echoing  courtyards. 

But  notwithstanding  all  this,  the  ruin  is  beautiful.  It 
is  so,  because  it  is  covered  "  from  turret  to  foundation 
stone  "  with  ivy.  The  ivy  mats  itself  on  every  side  of 
the  ancient  fortress,  and  covers  with  its  deep  green 
leaves  every  scar  the  old  castle  has  received  in  its  five 
hundred  years  of  contest  with  the  elements  and  with 
man. 

The  stories  that  are  told  about  the  castles  are  legion. 
Some  of  them,  I  fear,  are  made  up  by  the  Irish  peasants 
for  the  express  purpose  of  interesting  the  traveler.  But, 
true  or  untrue,  they  are  nearly  always  excellent  stories. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  81 

The  chief  actors  are  witches,  fairies,  and  ghosts. 
Nearly  every  fine  old  Irish  family  like  the  O'Neals,  the 
Mahoneys,  and  the  O'Donahues  has  a  banshee.  That 
is  a  spirit  who  comes  to  warn  the  family  of  the  ap- 
proaching death  of  one  of  its  members.  The  banshee 
is  always  a  woman,  generally  young  and  beautiful.  She 
utters  her  warning  by  crying,  sobbing,  and  at  times 
shrieking,  either  in  the  deserted  rooms  of  the  castle,  or 
around  the  towers  and  walls  outside. 

There  are  hosts  of  stories  proving  the  truth  of  the 
banshee's  warnings.  The  noble  families  in  Ireland 
believe  in  them,  and  as  for  the  tenants,  they  consider 
them  infallible. 

The  Irish  peasantry,  as  a  rule,  appear  to  be  most 
poor  and  miserable.  Their  homes  are  small  cottages  of 
stone,  brick,  or  mud.  The  roof  is  usually  thatched; 
and,  as  the  thatch  holds  the  smoke  from  the  peat  fire, 
the  atmosphere  of  the  cottage  is  nearly  always  smoky 
and  disagreeable. 

The  father  is  a  stroitg,  able-bodied  man.  He  raises 
potatoes  in  his  garden ;  but,  as  they  require  very  little 
attention,  he  could  earn  considerable  as  a  laborer  if 
work  was  forthcoming.  The  mother  wears  a  cotton 
waist,  a  coarse  petticoat,  and  a  large  apron.  Her  out- 
side garment  is  invariably  the  long  Irish  cloak.  She 
usually  has  her  sleeves  rolled  up,  and  is  barefooted. 

The  poor  little  ragged  children  patter  about  on  their 
small  bare  feet,  seeking  for  tourists,  who  serve  as  minis- 
tering angels  to  the  Irish  peasants. 

Many  Irish  families  live  upon  what  they  can  beg 
from  the  traveler.  Sometimes  they  offer  for  sale  cheap 


82  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

jewelry,  photographs,  shillalahs,  bouquets,  bits  of  bog 
oak,  and  shamrock  flowers.  More  often  they  declare 
themselves  starving  and  entreat  the  stranger's  pity.  If 
you  give  one  old  woman  a  shilling,  instantly  a  dozen 
will  gather  around  imploring  the  same.  Experienced 
travelers  sometimes  shake  off  the  unfortunate  creatures 
by  talking  French,  or  by  pretending  deafness. 

The  children  readily  follow  the  example  of  their 
elders.  They  lie  in  wait  for  the  coach  or  carriage,  and 
then  swarm  all  over  it.  What  is  to  be  done  when  on 
all  sides  of  you  are  ducking  heads,  and  smiling  mouths, 
uttering  in  the  sweetest  brogue  imaginable,  "  Give  us  a 
pinney,  if  yez  plase  ?  "  A  few  pence  are  tossed  into 
the  road.  Every  chick  and  child  leaps  from  the  coach 
to  scramble  for  them,  and  the  traveler  enjoys  the  sight 
for  a  while. 

Beggars  haunt  the  fairest  scenes  in  Ireland,  and  in- 
trude their  claims  upon  the  traveler  when  he  is  most 
engrossed  in  the  prospect.  The  Irish  wit  is  remarkably 
ingenious  in  devising  reasons  for  securing  money. 

A  beggar  following  a  tourist  fell  by  accident  into  a 
running  stream.  The  traveler  laughed.  Instantly  the 
man  was  on  his  feet,  requesting  a  sixpence  because  he 
had  amused  the  stranger. 

These  instances  illustrate  the  grinding  state  of  pov- 
erty to  which  the  Irish  peasantry  have  been  reduced. 
Certainly  something  must  be  decidedly  amiss  in  the 
English  rule,  under  which  such  a  state  of  society  exists. 
Again  and  again  the  heart  of  the  sympathetic  traveler 
aches,  at  glimpses  he  obtains  of  utterly  forlorn  homes 
and  listless,  hopeless  tenants. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  83 

In  southern  Ireland  the  scenery  is  most  beautiful. 
The  inward  bound  and  the  outward  bound  steamers 
between  Liverpool  and  the  Atlantic  seaports  of  the 
United  States  stop  at  Queenstown  to  land  and  receive 
passengers  and  mails.  Most  of  the  Irish  emigrating  to 
the  United  States  embark  here.  As  the  steamer  stops 
several  hours,  passengers  from  America  are  able  to 
land  and  see  a  little  of  Cork  and  the  surrounding 
country. 

Queenstown  has  a  fine  large  harbor,  well  sheltered 
from  ocean  storms.  The  shores  are  lofty  green  hill- 
sides, with  here  and  there  a  cluster  of  white  cottages 
and  a  lighthouse. 

The  city  appears  very  attractive  to  passengers  who 
have  been  gazing  at  the  sea  for  the  past  ten  days.  It  is 
built  upon  terraces.  Aristocracy,  here  as  elsewhere,  is 
at  the  top.  The  loftiest  houses  belong  to  the  wealthiest 
people.  The  street  at  the  foot  of  the  hill  consists 
chiefly  of  hotels  and  shops  for  the  accommodation  of 
sailors  and  tourists. 

In  the  streets  of  Queenstown  may  be  seen  bronzed 
old  captains  with  rolling  gait,  slim  young  yachtsmen, 
important  officials,  wondering  visitors,  and  a  few  inva- 
lids staying  here  on  account  of  the  mildness  of  the 
weather.  About  the  wharves  are  gathered  the  usual 
motley  crowd  of  beggars. 

Eleven  miles  up  the  river  Lee,  which  empties  into 
Queenstown  harbor,  is  Cork,  the  second  city  in  Ireland. 
Cork  is  a  bustling,  somewhat  dirty  town.  It  is  cele- 
brated for  containing  the  famous  Shandon  Bells.  An 
old  ballad  sings  of  them : 


84  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

*'  The  bells  of  Shandon 
They  sound  so  grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters 
Of  the  river  Lee." 

Not  far  from  Cork  is  the  thriving  town  of  Blarney. 
Blarney  is  prospering,  because  some  capitalists  have 
recently  established  cloth  factories  in  the  place.  Leav- 
ing the  town  with  its  mills  and  its  tenement  houses,  we 
come  to  a  relic  of  Old  Ireland.  It  is  no  other  than 
Blarney  Castle. 

You  must  have  heard  of  the  Blarney  Stone,  which  is 
said  to  confer  the  gift  of  eloquent  and  palavering  speech 
upon  the  lips  that  kiss  it.  Of  course  every  visitor  is 
eager  to  salute  the  magic  stone,  and  is  disappointed  at 
learning  that  it  is  a  difficult  undertaking.  The  stone  is 
at  the  top  of  the  tower  on  the  outside,  but  so  far  down 
the  side  of  the  wall  that  the  ambitious  tourist  must 
hang  by  his  heels  from  the  battlements  in  order  to 
reach  it. 

Some  people  allow  themselves  to  be  let  down  in  this 
way.  They  are  generally  very  young  and  giddy  per- 
sons, who  have  thought  little  upon  the  advantages  a 
sound  neck  has  over  a  broken  one.  An  amusing  inci- 
dent is  related  of  a  college  graduate  who  was  let  down 
by  two  fellow  students.  He  forgot  to  take  the  money 
from  his  pockets,  and  a  heavy  rain  of  sixpences,  shil- 
lings, and  sovereigns  fell  upon  the  grass  at  the  foot  of 
the  castle. 

This  is  as  much  of  Ireland  as  the  delay  of  the  steamer 
will  permit  the  traveler  to  see,  who  is  on  the  way  to 
Liverpool.  He  is  fortunate  who  has  more  time  to  spend 


MODERN    EUROPE.  85 

in  the  Emerald  Isle.  In  that  case  he  will  be  well  re- 
warded by  a  visit  to  the  Lakes  of  Killarney. 

Much  of  the  trip  to  Killarney  will  be  made  upon  a 
jaunting  car.  This  is  a  four-wheeled,  open  carriage, 
where  the  seats  are  placed  back  to  back.  There  is  a  seat 
facing  the  span  of  horses  for  the  driver.  Such  a  jaunt- 
ing car  will  hold  from  six  to  eight  persons.  There  are 
smaller  ones  which  have  but  a  single  pair  of  wheels, 
and  carry  only  four  passengers. 

There  are  three  lakes  of  Killarney.  *They  are  all  very 
small,  the  largest  one  being  no  more  than  five  miles 
long  and  three  miles  wide.  They  are  situated  deep 
down  in  a  glen,  which  from  the  hilltops  appears  gloomy 
and  barren,  but  which  really  is  filled  with  a  lovely 
tangle  of  trees,  shrubs,  hedgerows,  and  flowers. 

The  lakes  have  small  rocky  islands  dotting  their  sur- 
faces, and  are  bordered  by  most  beautiful  shores.  A 
portion  of  the  lake  side  is  included  in  the  park  of  a 
wealthy  member  of  Parliament.  His  grounds  contain 
Muckross  Abbey,  an  interesting  old  ruin.  He  charges 
a  shilling  to  travelers  who  wish  to  visit  it.  This  money 
is  used  for  repairs  upon  his  place. 

Ross  Castle  stands  upon  the  shore  of  one  of  the  lakes. 
It  was  once  the  home  of  the  O'Donahue.  The  man  who 
rows  you  over  the  lake  rests  on  his  oars  beneath  the 
castle  ;  and,  fixing  his  eyes  upon  the  yawning  casements, 
tells  you.  with  many  expressive  gestures  the  ghost  story 
of  the  place. 

It  is  said  that,  on  a  certain  night  every  year,  O'Dona- 
hue  comes  from  his  grave  in  the  churchyard,  mounts 
upon  his  snow-white  steed  which  stands  waiting  for  him, 


86  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

and  rides  over  the  lake  to  his  old  home,  "the  white 
hoofs  of  the  horse  skimming  over  the  waves  and  never 
sinking."  When  he  comes  opposite  the  castle,  "he 
fitches  a  blast  of  his  horn,"  and  lo  I  the  castle  is  rebuilt, 
as  whole  and  fine  as  in  the  "  Auld  Lang  Syne."  O'Dona- 
hue  enters  his  ancient  home  and  has  a  fine  feast.  But, 
as  the  morning  light  touches  the  eastern  hilltops,  the 
castle  falls  into  a  ruin  once  more,  and  O'Donahue  re- 
turns to  his  grave. 

Ask  your  narrator  if  he  believes  this  story,  and  he 
will  affirm  it  with  true  Celtic  fire.  He  would  almost 
peril  his  hope  of  heaven  on  the  certainty  of  this  exploit 
of  the  great  O'Donahue. 

The  lakes  are  charming  because  of  the  faithful  way 
in  which  they  mirror  the  sudden  changes  of  the  sky 
above  them.  In  bursts  of  sunshine,  they  sparkle  and 
gleam  like  liquid  sapphires  and  emeralds.  When  rain 
clouds  darken  the  heavens,  the  lakes  also  deepen  to  jet. 

There  are  very  many  interesting  places  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  lakes.  There  is  the  Gap  of  Dunloe, 
a  wild  narrow  pass  between  two  ranges  of  hills.  Down 
the  descent  of  one  side  of  the  pass  flows  the  Blackwater 
River.  It  is  so  named,  because  its  pools  and  currents 
are  changed  to  deep  brown  by  the  peaty  country  it 
drains. 

The  Colleen  Bawn  Cavern  is  romantic  in  the  extreme. 
It  is  a  deep,  cool  grotto,  with  rocks  above  and  around, 
and  water  below.  It  is  entered  by  several  archways  in 
the  rock,  beneath  which  the  rowboats  glide. 

The  chief  cities  on  the  western  coast  are  Limerick 
and  Galway.  Limerick  is  celebrated  for  its  manufact- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  87 

tires  of  fishhooks  and  lace.  The  lace  is  of  two  kinds, — 
pillow  lace  and  loom  lace.  The  former  is  the  more 
expensive.  It  is  made  by  hand,  the  Irish  women  work- 
ing out  their  exceedingly  fine  patterns  on  small  pillows. 
The  loom  lace  is  made  by  machinery,  and  is  far  cheaper. 

Galway  is  a  sleepy  old  place  that  lias  lost  hope  and 
energy  and  is  plainly  falling  behind  the  more  enter- 
prising cities  of  to-day.  One  quarter  of  the  town  is 
'inhabited  by  a  class  of  Irish  men  and  women  who  cling 
obstinatety  to  their  old  customs.  They  wear  the  ancient 
Irish  dress,  and  speak  the  ancient  Irish  language.  They 
live  apart  from  the  other  inhabitants  of  the  town,  and 
have  their  own  form  of  government. 

The  capital  of  Ireland  is  Dublin,  situated  on  the  east- 
ern coast.  Although  the  largest  city  in  Ireland,  it  is 
not  the  largest  Irish  city  in  the  world.  New  York  is 
said  to  contain  more  Irish  than  Dublin  itself. 

Dublin  is  a  well-built  city  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Liffey  River.  It  is  the  seat  of  several  important 
industries,  chief  among  which  are  the  manufacture  of 
Irish  poplin  and  porter.  Distilleries  are  found  in  all  the 
large  cities  of  Ireland,  and  large  quantities  of  whiskey 
and  porter  are  consumed  at  home  and  sent  abroad. 

St.  Patrick's  Cathedral  and  Dublin  University  are  two 
of  the  most  important  public  buildings.  St.  Patrick  is 
the  patron  saint  of  Ireland.  It  is  said  that  the  island 
was  once  infested  with  snakes.  The  saint  drove  them 
out,  and  thereby  earned  the  eternal  gratitude  of  the 
Irish  people.  The  cathedral  is  rather  poorly  situated. 
It  stands  on  low  and  marshy  land.  It  has  recently  been 
repaired  and  re-decorated  through  the  generosity  of  a 


88 


THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 


wealthy  Dublin  brewer,  who  gave  the  church  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  pounds. 

The  university  is  a  famous  old  building,  very  proud 
of  its  illustrious  sons,  among  whom  are  numbered  Gold- 
smith, Burke,  Moore,  and  O'Connell. 

The  birthplace  of  Moore  may  be  seen  in  Dublin.  It 
is  a  tall,  narrow,  unpretentious-looking  building.  The 
lower  floor  is  occupied  by  a  grocery,  while  above  the 


DUBLIN     UNIVERSITY. 


windows  of  the  second  story  is  a  niche  in  which  stands 
a  bust  of  the  poet.  Tom  Moore  is  the  song  writer  of 
Ireland,  as  Burns  is  of  Scotland. 

A  memorial  to  Daniel  O'Connell,  the  great  Irish  leader, 
stands  in  the  cemetery.  It  is  shaped  like  the  round 
towers  which  are  plentifully  scattered  throughout  Ire- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  89 

land.  The  original  towers  are  relics  of  antiquity ;  the 
tower  to  O'Connell  is  of  recent  date,  but  an  exact  copy 
of  the  older  buildings. 

It  is  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  height,  and  is 
shaped  like  a  post  with  a  conical  top.  It  contains  sev- 
eral floors,  and  each  of  these  is  lighted  by  one  window, 
with  the  exception  of  the  top  story,  which  has  four  win- 
dows facing  due  north,  east,  south,  and  west.  The  door 
of  the  tower  is  about  nine  feet  from  the  ground. 

Authorities  are  divided  in  their  opinion  as  to  the  use 
of  the  rude  towers.  It  has  been  thought  they  were  used 
as  watchtowers,  because  of  their  lofty  height  and  their 
four  upper  windows. 

The  Duke  of  Wellington  was  born  in  Dublin,  and  the 
city  has  honored  his  memory  by  raising  a  lofty  obelisk 
to  commemorate  his  name. 

Dublin  has  the  largest  park  in  all  the  British  Isles. 
Phoenix  Park,  as  it  is  called,  extends  over  seventeen 
hundred  acres.  Much  of  it  is  covered  with  grand  old 
oaks,  elms,  and  ash  trees.  In  the  northeast  section  of 
the  park  are  the  Zoological  Gardens,  which  contain  many 
valuable  birds  and  other  animals. 

The  poverty  of  Dublin  is  most  distressing.  The 
poorer  class  of  people  live  in  one  quarter  of  the  city, 
and  are  so  crowded  that  one  hundred  persons  occupy 
one  floor  of  a  house.  Poor  women  may  be  seen  stand- 
ing upon  the  corners  of  the  wider,  richer  streets,  offer- 
ing two  or  three  onions  for  sale.  They  have  old  cloaks 
drawn  about  them,  and  wear  a  hopeless,  pitiful  expres- 
sion on  their  pale,  pinched  faces. 

The  most  interesting  bit  of  natural  scenery  on  the 


90 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


northern  coast  of  Ireland  is  the  Giant's  Causeway.  To 
reach  it  the  traveler  passes  through  Belfast,  a  bright 
and  enterprising  place,  which  is  growing  rapidly.  It  is 
the  seat  of  the  linen  trade,  for  which  Ireland  has  always 


GIANT'S    CAUSEWAY. 


been  noted,  and  also  a  center  for  the  building  of  iron 
steamships.  All  the  steamers  of  the  White  Star  line  are 
made  in  Belfast. 

This  is  the  only  city  in  Ireland  where  the  Protestants 
at  all  approach  the  Catholics  in  number  and  power.     All 


MODERN    EUROPE.  91 

the  rest  of  Ireland  is  strongly  Catholic  in  its  religion. 
There  have  been  many  wars  in  the  past  between  the 
adherents  to  these  two  forms  of  religious  faith ;  and  the 
politics  of  this  century  has  not  tended  to  lessen  the  bitter 
feelings  of  either  party. 

Causeway  means  a  paved  street.  The  Giant's  Cause- 
way, which  we  have  come  to  see,  is  made  up  of  innu- 
merable rock  pillars,  rising  from  the  ocean  and  fitting  so 
closely  together  that  the  tops  of  the  columns,  which  are 
hexagonal  in  shape,  form  what  appears  a  paved  pathway. 
It  slopes  downward  into  the  sea,  and  there  the  way 
seems  to  stop.  But  it  really  does  not,  the  people  say. 
It  crosses  the  sea  to  the  island  of  Staffa,  off  the  opposite 
coast  of  Scotland,  where  these  same  peculiar  columns 
appear. 

The  Irish  have  a  tradition  to  account  for  the  cause- 
way. They  say  that  there  was  once  an  Irish  giant  who 
wished  to  fight  a  giant  living  across  the  sea  in  Scotland. 
He  invited  him  over,  but  the  Scottish  giant  could  not 
swim.  The  Irish  giant  then  built  a  stone  road  between 
Ireland  and  Scotland.  Some  time  after,  it  was  broken 
by  the  sea ;  but  the  two  ends  of  the  bridge  are  visible 
to-day.  Such  is  the  history  of  the  Giant's  Causeway. 

Tradition  does  not  say  which  giant  beat  in  the  battle. 
You  may  be  very  sure  to  which  the  Irish  award  the  vic- 
tory ;  and,  as  we  are  visiting  Ireland,  I  think  it  is  only 
polite  to  accept  their  side  of  the  story.  Don't  you  ? 


92  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLh. 

CHAPTER  V. 

THE    SCANDINAVIAN   PENINSULA. 

The  northwestern  corner  of  Europe  consists  of  a  large 
peninsula,  known  as  Scandinavia.  Two  countries  oc- 
cupy this  peninsula.  They  are  Norway  and  Sweden. 

Norway  and  Sweden  might  almost  be  called  twin 
sisters  among  the  nations  of  Europe,  for  they  resemble 
each  other  closely.  Their  people  belong  to  the  same 
race,  speak  languages  very  nearly  alike,  wear  similar 
clothing,  and  live  in  similar  houses. 

For  many  years  the  two  countries  have  been  united 
under  one  king,  Norway  was  once  a  province  of  Den- 
mark -,  but  when,  in  the  beginning  of  the  nineteenth 
century,  she  separated  from  Denmark,  she  was  united 
to  Sweden,  and  the  king  of  the  Swedes  became  her  king 
also.  Some  months  of  the  year  he  spends  in  Norway, 
and  the  remaining  time  he  lives  in  Sweden. 

He  rules  over  a  very  mild  and  beautiful  country,  as 
travelers  are  just  discovering.  For  many  years  tourists 
have  been  flocking  to  gaze  at  the  wonderful  mountains, 
glaciers,  and  lakes  of  Switzerland.  Englishmen  have 
thronged  across  France  and  Germany  to  Switzerland 
every  summer,  entirely  ignorant  of  the  fact  that,  just 
across  the  North  Sea,  in  almost  unknown  Scandinavia, 
are  mountains  and  lakes  nearly,  if  not  quite,  as  grand 
as  those  of  Switzerland.  To-day  Norway  and  Sweden 
are  becoming  better  known. 

Nearly  the  whole  of  Norway  is  rocky  and  mountain- 
ous. The  western  coast  is  unusually  wild  and  barren, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  93 

There  are  hundreds,  if  not  thousands,  of  bays,  or  fiords, 
running  into  the  land.  A  number  of  the  larger  fiords 
extend  one  hundred  miles  into  the  mainland.  They 
are  surrounded  by  dark  mountains,  which  tower  four 
or  five  thousand  feet  into  the  gray  sky. 

Some  of  the  mountains  are  bare,  with  not  a  bit  of 
moss  or  lichen  covering  their  dark  walls.  Others  have 
forests  of  pine  and  fir  upon  their  sides.  Snow  is  often 
seen  upon  the  summits  of  the  higher  mountains.  Some- 
times beautiful  foamy  cascades  come  leaping  hundreds 
of  feet  down  the  mountains  to  fall  into  the  clear  green 
water  of  the  fiord. 

The  surface  of  the  fiord  is  usually  tranquil  because 
of  the  protecting  chain  of  islands  which  skirt  the 
coast.  These  islands  break  the  mighty  swell  of  the 
Atlantic,  so  that  waves  are  seldom  aroused  in  the  fiords 
beyond.  The  majesty  and  beauty  of  the  surrounding 
shore  are  therefore  perfectly  reflected  in  the  mirror-like 
fiord. 

At  the  head  of  each  fiord  are  situated  one  or  more 
small  fishing  stations.  Each  station  consists  of  a  few  cot- 
tages and  perhaps  one  small  inn ;  near  by  are  the  quaint 
fishing  boats  moored  by  the  shore.  A  narrow  valley, 
dotted  with  a  few  farmhouses,  follows  the  river  up 
among  the  hills. 

Occasionally  one  sees,  a  mile  above  the  fiord,  a  tiny 
hut  perched  upon  a  mountain  side.  There,  in  that  per- 
ilous spot,  miles  and  miles  from  neighbors,  a  Norwegian 
family  is  living.  The  farmer  has  found  a  bit  of  land 
easy  to  cultivate,  which  is  very  rare  in  many  regions  of 
Norway. 


94  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

He  has  here  made  his  home,  quite  unconcerned 
by  the  fact  that  his  toddling  sons  and  daughters  have 
to  be  tethered  by  lines  to  the  house  or  the  trees  to 
prevent  their  falling  down  from  their  airy  home  and 
being  killed. 

The  only  level  region  of  Norway  is  in  the  extreme 
south ;  while  the  only  fertile  districts  lie  around  the 
cities  of  Christiania  and  Trondhjem.  Notwithstanding 
this  fact,  most  of  the  Norwegians  are  farmers.  They 
are  very  industrious,  and  fairly  wrest  their  living  from 
the  hard  hand  of  Nature. 

With  infinite  toil,  they  slowly  cut  down  the  forests 
which  cover  the  hillsides  and  fill  the  river  valleys, 
These  valleys,  heaped  with  giant  bowlders  which  have 
choked  up  the  rivers  for  generations,  are  cleared  and 
planted  with  crops.  All  over  Norway  is  seen  the  farm- 
house, now  in  the  river  valley,  now  on  the  hillside,  and 
now  among  the  mountains.  Sometimes  several  are  near 
together,  making  a  small  settlement;  but  oftener  the 
farmhouse  is  a  solitary  building,  situated  miles  from 
any  other  dwelling. 

The  farmer,  his  family,  and  his  servants  form  a  small 
kingdom  of  themselves.  They  are  forced  to  supply  all 
their  simple  needs  for  themselves ;  and  in  their  lonely, 
monotonous  life  together,  they  develop  a  strong,  silent 
trust  and  dependence  one  upon  the  other. 

The  Norwegian  peasant  is  tall  and  muscular,  and 
usually  has  blue  or  gray  eyes  and  a  light  beard.  He  is 
an  intelligent  man,  if  somewhat  slow  and  deliberate  in 
the  expression  of  his  thoughts.  He  is  much  better  ed- 
ucated than  the  small  English  farmer  of  corresponding 


MODERN    EUROPE.  95 

station.  His  wife  and  children,  though  not  especially 
pretty,  have  an  intelligent  and  pleasant  appearance. 

The  ordinary  dress  of  the  Norwegian  peasants  is  of 
homespun ;  but  on  festive  occasions  their  costume  ap- 
pears gorgeous  by  contrast  with  their  usual  apparel. 
The  men  wear  short  coats  and  trousers  and  very  gay 
vests.  The  women  are  dressed  in  cloth  jackets,  dark 
skirts,  long  white  aprons,  and  much  silver  jewelry.  In 
some  regions  they  wear  close-fitting  dark  caps  ;  in  other 
places,  large  white  caps  with  butterfly  frills  at  the  top. 
Little  girls  have  kerchiefs  folded  about  their  heads  and 
knotted  under  their  chins. 

As  the  farmer  rarely  builds  more  than  three  rooms 
beneath  one  roof,  he  needs  many  little  houses  to  take 
the  place  of  the  large,  commodious  farmhouse  that  we 
are  used  to  see  in  New  England.  One  house  contains 
the  kitchen,  another  serves  as  the  bedroom  of  the  men 
servants,  and  so  on.  These  separate  buildings  are  ar- 
ranged so  as  to  form  a  quadrangle,  and  near  by  stand 
the  barn  and  various  sheds. 

The  farmhouse  proper  consists  of  two  large  rooms. 
One  is  called  the  guest's  room ;  but  when  no  one  is  vis- 
iting, it  is  used  as  a  storeroom.  The  other  room  is  the 
living  room.  Here  the  family  eat,  work,  and  perhaps 
sleep. 

The  room  is  large  and  lofty.  The  dark  beams  are 
unpainted,  and  the  floors  uncarpeted.  Rough  wooden 
shelves  hang  from  the  ceiling,  and  solid  wooden  settees 
and  chairs  stand  about. 

In  one  corner  of  the  room  is  a  bed  reached  by  a  couple 
of  steps.  Its  top  and  sides  are  of  wood.  Like  all 


96  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

Swedish  beds,  it  is  somewhat  short  and  narrow.  A 
grown  person  has  to  double  himself  like  the  letter  S; 
and  the  short  beds  are  one  of  the  chief  causes  of  com- 
plaint among  travelers  passing  through  Sweden  and 
Norway'.  The  bed  clothing  is  sheep  and  goat  skins 
which  have  been  very  nicely  dressed. 

One  corner  of  the  room  is  filled  by  the  lofty  fireplace. 
Here  cooking  goes  on  continually.  When  there  is 
nothing  else  to  cook,  the  housewife  makes  a  peculiar 
kind  of  bread  from  rye,  barley,  or  oats,  called  "  flat 
bread." 

The  dough  is  rolled  out  into  a  flat  cake  about  a  foot 
and  a  half  in  diameter.  The  cake  might  almost  be 
called  a  wafer,  because  it  is  nearly  as  thin  as  paper. 
The  next  step  is  to  bake  the  cake  upon  a  large  griddle 
or  a  flat  stone.  The  woman  sits  before  the  fire,  and 
bakes  so  rapidly  that  she  soon  has  a  large  pile  of  "  flat 
bread  "  beside  her  on  the  hearth.  It  is  crisp,  and  re- 
minds one  of  brown  wrapping  paper,  but  it  gives  very 
little  nourishment.  The  Norwegian  table  is  always 
piled  high  with  the  national  bread ;  but,  though  one 
should  eat  twenty  cakes,  he  would  still  go  away  hungry. 

There  is  frequently  an  outer  kitchen  in  a  small  shed, 
where  the  rough  cooking,  the  brewing,  and  the  boiling 
>f  lye,  are  carried  on. 

Among  the  numerous  barns,  sheds,  and  pens  stands 
the  large  storehouse.  It  is  particularly  well  built,  and 
is  mounted  upon  four  wooden  piles  to  keep  it  from  the 
damp  ground.  In  the  different  compartments  are  stored 
the  family  stock  of  food  for  the  year.  Here  stand 
the  flour  barrels ;  there  hang  the  smoked  meats  and  the 


MODERN    EUROPE.  97 

dried  beef  and  pork.  Along  the  floor  is  stacked  the 
"  flat  bread." 

If  the  farm  is  a  large  one,  there  are  usually  several 
cottages  belonging  to  the  farmer.  He  lets  them  to 
tenants,  who  help  in  the  work.  The  cottages  are 
clustered  together  at  a  little  distance  from  the  farm- 
house. 

There  is  often,  far  up  on  the  hillside  among  the  past- 
ures, another  small  building  known  as  the  mountain 
dairy.  During  the  summer  months  the  cows  are  driven 
to  the  uplands,  where  they  crop  the  sweet,  short,  sparse 
grass  growing  among  rocks  and  bowlders.  They  are 
tended  by  a  herdboy,  who,  in  the  late  twilight,  drives 
them  to  the  dairy,  where  they  are  milked  by  the  fann- 
er's daughter  and  the  dairymaid  that  she  has  with  her. 

These  girls  live  through  the  summer  at  the  dairy 
farm,  and  they  grow  to  love  the  life  they  lead. 
During  the  day  they  are  occupied  in  caring  for 
the  milk  and  making  butter  and  cheese.  But  their 
time  is  passed  outdoors  ;  and,  at  any  moment,  they 
have  only  to  raise  their  heads  to  behold,  spread  out 
before  them,  most  beautiful  views  of  mountain,  lake, 
and  quiet  valley.  The  air  is  most  invigorating,  and 
the  life  is  simply  delightful. 

Any  one  who  has  ever  spent  a  summer  on  a  moun- 
tain dairy  farm  has  a  strong  desire,  at  the  opening  of 
every  succeeding  summer,  to  return  to  the  simple, 
happy,  outdoor  life.  Even  the  cows  share  the  love  for 
the  mountains  ;  and,  in  spring,  they  have  to  be  watched, 
lest,  at  the  first  warm  day,  they  start  off  for  their  old 
lofty  haunts. 


98  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  cheese  made  in  Norway. 
One  kind  looks  and  smells  like  a  cake  of  dark  soap; 
other  kinds  are  more  attractive.  Oftentimes  at  the 
hotels  or  on  shipboard,  they  set  out  as  many  as  a  dozen 
different  varieties  of  cheese,  causing  the  table  to  appear 
like  a  table  at  an  agricultural  fair. 

The  farmer's  food  is  very  simple.  It  consists  of  por- 
ridge and  milk,  fish,  dried  and  salted  meats,  potatoes, 
cheese,  and  bread. 

The  whole  family,  including  the  servants,  gather 
about  the  rough  board  table.  Here  their  manners  are 
far  from  elegant.  If  they  desire  some  distant  article  of 
food  at  the  farther  end  of  the  table,  they  will  rise  and 
walk  to  it  and  help  themselves.  Every  one  seems 
thinking  of  his  own  wants,  rather  than  of  the  wants  of 
others. 

The  summers  of  Norway  are  very  short.  Crops  are, 
in  some  regions,  planted,  tended,  and  harvested  within 
six  weeks. 

A  Norwegian  farmer  has  many  difficulties  to  contend 
with.  Violent  rainstorms  wash  away  the  growing  grain, 
and  early  frosts  blight  the  corn.  He  generally  calcu- 
lates upon  one,  if  not  two,  unsuccessful  years  in  every 
five. 

The  growth  of  grass  is  scanty.  To  secure  hay  for 
the  cattle,  every  tuft  of  grass  growing  among  the  rocks 
must  be  carefully  cut.  Even  flowers  and  brakes  find 
their  way  into  the  fodder. 

Barns,  in  which  hay  is  stored,  are  built  on  the  moun- 
tain pastures.  As  winter  approaches,  the  hay  is  removed 
to  the  home  barn.  When  there  is  no  road  from  the  past- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  99 

ure  to  the  farm,  a  pulley  is  rigged  and  bundles  of  hay 
are  shot  down  the  mountain  side  on  ropes.  A  stranger 
is  often  greatly  startled  at  seeing  such  a  bundle  flying 
through  the  air  like  some  great  unknown  bird. 

If  the  crops  on  the  farm  fail,  the  farmer  joins  either 
the  fishermen  or  the  lumbermen  in  their  work.  In 
the  depths  of  winter  the  farmer's  wife  packs  her  hus- 
band's little  knapsack  of  birch  bark  with  flour,  dried 
meats,  herring,  butter,  cheese,  coffee,  and  sugar.  Shoul- 
dering this,  he  tramps  away  on  snowshoes  into  the  lonely 
forest. 

He  joins  two  lumbermen,  and  together  they  build  a 
small  log  hut,  twelve  feet  long  and  eight  feet  wide. 
The  crevices  between  the  logs  are  stuffed  with  moss. 
One  man  can  scarcely  crawl  through  the  doorway,  which 
is  made  as  small  as  possible  to  keep  out  the  cold.  The 
hut  contains  merely  a  flat  stone  for  a  fireplace,  on  which 
rude  cooking  is  done,  and  a  bed. 

You  would  not  think  their  rough  couch  worthy  the 
name  of  bed,  for  it  is  made  of  logs  rolled  close  to  one 
another,  and  spread  with  hay  and  dried  moss.  The  men 
do  not  remove  their  clothing  at  night,  and  sleep  as  near 
the  fire  as  possible.  They  need  all  the  warmth  they 
can  get ;  for  while  on  the  side  towards  the  blazing  fire 
their  clothes  are  steaming  with  heat,  on  the  other  side 
they  freeze  to  the  wall,  so  piercing  are  the  keen  winter 
nights. 

The  logs  reach  the  manufacturing  villages  and  towns 
by  the  mountain  stream,  which  broadens  and  deepens, 
on  its  way,  into  a  river.  When  the  spring  freshets  come, 
the  logs  are  rapidly  carried  down  to  the  sawmills. 


100  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

But  it  is  often  difficult  to  transport  the  logs  from  the 
forest  high  in  the  mountain  to  the  stream  deep  in  the  val- 
ley. Sometimes  they  are  allowed  to  slide  down  the 
mountain  side  ;  then  again,  they  are  loaded  upon  wagons 
drawn  by  horses.  The  roads  are  often  so  steep  that  the 
horses  are  forced  to  sit  down  and  slide  rapidly  along 
the  descending  slopes. 

When  the  logs  are  once  launched  upon  the  stream, 
the  lumberman's  labor  is  not  yet  over.  He  has  now  to 
guide,  or  "  float,"  them  down  to  the  town. 

On  the  large  rivers  there  is  very  little  peril  to  the 
"floater,"  as  the  lumberman  is  now  called.  But  on 
the  abrupt  mountain  streams  where  the  logs  are  contin- 
ually running  aground,  or  blocking  each  other's  way,  it 
is  very  different. 

The  "  floater  "  spends  much  of  his  time  in  water  above 
his  knees.  As  the  water  is  icy  cold,  and  he  has  no 
chance  to  change  or  dry  his  clothes  before  night,  his 
feet  frequently  become  frozen,  or  he  catches  a  serious 
cold. 

Again,  while  running  out  upon  the  logs,  he  may  fall 
into  the  river  between  them  and  be  jammed  to  death. 
In  removing  one  log  which  may  be  blocking  the  rest,  he 
may  remain  a  little  too  late  and  be  overwhelmed  by  the 
descending  avalanche. 

There  are  many  sawmills  throughout  Norway,  and 
lumber  is  one  of  the  chief  articles  of  export.  Some 
enterprising  Norwegian  capitalists  have  even  bought 
forests  in  Sweden. 

The  capital  of  this  land  of  woods  and  mountains  is 
Christiania,  situated  in  the  fertile,  level  district  at  the 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


southeast.  It  stands  at  the  head  of  a  fiord  twenty  miles 
in  length,  which  forms  an  excellent  harbor  and  is  always 
thronged  with  ships  and  steamers,  many  of  which  be;u 
the  flags  of  England,  Holland,  France,  and  Germany. 

The  appearance  of  Christiania  is  very  attractive.  The 
streets  are  wide  and  well  paved,  and  many  of  them  are 
shaded  by  large  trees.  The  square  and  substantial 
buildings  are  nearly  all  of  stone.  There  have  been  so 
many  destructive  fires  that  a  law  has  been  passed  for- 
bidding the  erection  of  wooden  buildings. 

The  fronts  of  the  dwelling  houses  are  bright  with 
large  windows  filled  with  most  flourishing  and  brilliant 
roses,  geraniums,  and  fuchsias. 

The  stores  are  large  and  well  stocked.  The  salesmen 
are  very  courteous.  They  almost  overwhelm  the  cus- 
tomer with  bows.  In  an  interview  of  five  minutes  fully 
twenty  bows  will  be  exchanged.  The  customer  must 
be  careful  to  return  the  number  exactly,  or  the  over- 
whelming politeness  of  the  clerk  will  be  changed  to 
positive  rudeness. 

Christiania  seems  somewhat  like  a  small  Paris,  except 
that  the  streets  are  silent  and  deserted.  The  one  noisy 
spot  is  the  fishmarket  in  the  early  morning.  The  fisher- 
men and  women  have  brought  their  boats  as  near  to  the 
stone  pavement  as  possible.  Some  have  landed  and 
stand  beside  their  boats;  others  remain  in  them.  But 
one  and  all  are  talking  at  the  top  of  their  voices,  and 
urging  their  fish  upon  the  old  and  young  housewives  of 
Christiania,  who  have  come  to  purchase  the  day's  dinner. 
They  have  ample  opportunity  to  satisfy  their  goodman's 
taste,  as  cod,  mackerel,  eels,  and  herring  are  offered  for 
sale. 


102  TKE   WOAvD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 


See  this  sturdy  fishwoman.  She  is  dressed  in  dark 
homespun,  and  a  quaint  white  cap  contrasts  strongly 
with  her  red,  sunburned  face.  She  is  seated  in  the 
stern  of  her  boat,  where  a  leafy  bough  is  fixed  to  make 
a  shade.  She  is  flourishing  a  large  green  lobster,  and 
addressing  herself  to  a  slender,  fair-faced  matron,  who 
shakes  her  head  at  the  high  price  demanded. 

The  fishwoman  calls  attention  to  the  fineness  of  the 
lobster.  But  the  city  woman  turns  away  and  makes  a 
feint  of  departing.  Then  the  other  raises  her  voice  and 
calls  loudly  for  her  to  return.  An  animated  consultation 
ensues  ;  and  at  last  the  bargain  is  concluded,  the  lady 
buying  some  fish,  also,  which  the  other  woman  draws 
up  in  a  small  net  from  the  dark  cool  hold  of  the  boat. 

Next  to  Chris  tiania,  the  two  largest  cities  of  Norway 
are  Bergen  and  Trondhjem.  Both  of  them  are  situ- 
ated on  the  western  coast.  They  can  be  reached  by 
steamers  from  Christiariia  ;  but  there  are  overland 
routes  to  both  cities  which  travelers  are  fond  of  taking, 
because  they  thus  obtain  most  interesting  glimpses  of 
rural  life  and  scenery  in  central  Norway. 

The  vehicle  in  which  the  journey  is  made  is  some- 
thing like  a  gig.  A  pair  of  large  wheels  is  fastened  to 
two  long  shafts,  across  which  is  built  a  seat  for  one 
person.  The  traveler  takes  this  seat  ;  the  rude  reins  of 
rope  are  handed  to  him  ;  his  luggage  is  placed  on  the 
shafts  behind  him  ;  and  the  postboy  takes  his  seat  upon 
the  luggage. 

The  roads  of  Norway  are  good.  At  intervals  along 
the  way  are  stations  established  by  the  government. 
The  law  requires  that  these  stations,  which  are  usually 


MODERN    EUROPE.  103 

farmhouses,  should  be  ready  to  offer  simple  entertain- 
ment to  the  traveler  in  the  way  of  food  and  lodging, 
and  have  ready  a  supply  of  fresh  horses  and  postboys  to 
send  him  on  his  way. 

At  each  station  the  traveler  is  accustomed  to  change 
horse  and  postboy.  The  boy  and  horse  then  return  to 
the  station  from  which  they  came. 

Stations  are  of  two  kinds,  —  fast  and  slow.  At  a 
fast  station  a  certain  number  of  horses  are  on  hand  all 
the  time.  At^i  slow  station  the  traveler  may  be  obliged 
to  wait  until  they  are  brought  from  a  distant  farm.  The 
post  horses  belong  to  the  farmers  living  along  the  way, 
who  pay  taxes  in  this  fashion. 

There  are  advantages  and  disadvantages  in  such  trav- 
eling. Often  the  inn  where  one  passes  the  night  is 
rough  in  the  extreme.  The  bed  is  hard,  short,  and  un- 
comfortable ;  the  food  is  coarse  and  unpalatable ;  the 
innkeeper  is  rough  and  unaccommodating.  One  often 
has  difficulty  in  making  himself  understood.  Even  the 
liveliest  gestures  fail  to  fulfill  the  office  of  the  tongue. 

The  Norwegian  horses  are  very  provoking.  They 
rarely  accomplish  more  than  four  miles  an  hour.  If 
the  traveler  attempts  to  make  them  go  faster,  the  post- 
boy interferes.  The  Norwegians  love  their  horses 
dearly,  and  are  very  careful  that  they  do  not  wear  them- 
selves out  on  the  hilly  roads.  Whips  are  almost  never 
used.  The  driver  urges  on  the  horse  by  means  of  hiss- 
ing and  clucking  sounds. 

When  a  party  of  travelers  is  passing  through  Norway, 
the  little  gigs  follow  one  another  so  closely  that  the 
noses  of  all  the  horses  but  the  leader  almost  touch  the 


104  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

faces  of  the  postboys  in  the  preceding  carriages.  While 
the  horses  behind  appear  to  gallop,  the  leader  seems  to 
walk ;  and  not  for  all  the  impatient  shouts  from  behind 
will  he  mend  his  pace. 

The  traveler  in  the  first  gig  has  a  hard  time.  The 
others  urge  him  to  drive  faster ;  but,  try  as  he  may,  his 
horse  jogs  along  at  its  own  sweet  will. 

Perhaps  some  impatient  tourist  in  the  rear  passes  by 
the  other  carriages,  and  essays  to  lead.  Immediately 
his  horse,  which  appeared  so  eager  to  Advance,  sinks 
into  a  slow  jog.  The  unfortunate  man  hears  the  jeers 
and  impatient  exclamations  of  those  behind,  formerly 
addressed  to  his  comrade,  now  hurled  at  him.  No 
voice  appears  so  loud  in  his  ears  as  that  of  the  recent 
leader.  It  is  funny,  but  provoking. 

These  are  the  disadvantages  of  the  trip.  But  the  op- 
portunities of  living  and  moving  daily  among  the  dark, 
lonely  mountains,  the  breezy  moors,  and  the  lofty  forests ; 
of  seeing  the  patient,  industrious  people  at  their  toil ;  of 
breathing  the  wonderfully  invigorating  air, — these  are 
advantages  far  outweighing  the  trifling  discomforts  of 
the  way. 

Bergen,  a  former  capital  of  Norway,  is  situated  at  the 
head  of  a  fine,  deep  harbor.  The  principal  street  of  the 
city  runs  by  the  water's  edge. 

Branching  off  from  this  are  numerous  steep,  side 
streets  that  climb  the  hills  on  which  much  of  the  city  is 
built. 

The  situation  of  Bergen  is  quite  picturesque,  but  it  is 
considered  by  some  travelers  as  somewhat  unhealthful. 
The  mountains  near  the  city  condense  the  rain  clouds, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  105 

and  fully  two  hundred  days  in  the  year  it  rains  in 
Bergen.  The  annual  rainfall  amounts  to  seventy  inches. 
One  writer  says  that  a  waterproof  and  umbrella  are  the 
first  presents  given  to  each  baby  born  in  this  "  weeping 
city." 

Notwithstanding  this  fact,  Bergen  appears  to  be  a 
thoroughly  live  city.  The  harbor,  wharves,  and  ware- 
houses are  the  center  of  activity.  The  chief  articles  of 
export  are  dried  codfish,  herring,  and  cod-liver  oil. 

The  fish  are  Brought  from  the  fishing  grounds  at  the 
north  in  curious  boats,  which  resemble  the  ancient  vessels 
of  the  Northmen.  They  are  quite  broad,  and  have  very 
high,  curving  bows,  so  that  when  the  fish  are  packed 
high  up  about  the  mast,  the  helmsman  can  still  see  the 
bows  to  aid  him  in  his  steering.  The  single  mast,  placed 
at  the  center  of  the  boat,  is  rigged  with  one  huge,  square 
sail. 

The  warehouses  in  which  the  cod  are  placed  stand 
very  close  together.  They  are  of  wood,  and  a  slight  fire 
would  easily  destroy  the  whole  line  of  buildings  with 
their  very  dry  and  combustible  contents. 

Most  of  the  houses  are  built  of  wood,  with  sharply 
peaked  roofs.  They  turn  their  gable  ends  to  the  street, 
and  contribute  much  toward  giving  the  city  the  German 
look  which  it  undoubtedly  wears. 

Like  Bergen,  Trondhjem  was  an  ancient  capital  of 
Norway.  The  name  means  Throne's  Home,  and  it  was 
there  that  the  king  lived.  There  were  situated  the  pal- 
aces, the  government  buildings,  and  the  cathedral. 

To-day,  the  royal  presence  is  a  rare  sight  in  Trond- 
hjem, and  the  royal  buildings  are  at  Christiania.  The 


106  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

cathedral  alone  remains,  and  its  beauty  and  stateliness 
still  cast  a  glory  about  the  ancient  town.  The  custom 
of  crowning  the  kings  in  this  cathedral  is  still  maintained. 

Two  principal  streets  of  Trondhjem  cross  each  other 
at  right  angles.  Standing  in  the  central  space  and 
looking  up  the  streets  in  the  four  directions,  one  sees 
the  vistas  closed  on  three  sides  by  mountains,  and  on 
the  fourth  side  by  the  green  sea. 

This  central  space  is  used  as  a  market  place.  Every 
week  the  peasants  come  in  from  the  suburbs,  and  cheese, 
butter,  homespun  cloth,  and  linen  are  offered  here  for 
sale. 

Trondhjem  has  been  burned  four  times,  and  now  a 
law  has  been  passed  that  all  the  buildings  erected  in  the 
city  shall  be  of  brick  or  stone.  The  cathedral  has  suf- 
fered much  from  fire.  It  was  built  in  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury of  a  bluish-gray  stone  found  in  the  neighborhood. 
It  is  the  only  building  of  architectural  value  that  the 
united  kingdoms  possess. 

An  effort  has  been  made  to  raise  money  to  repair  it, 
but  contributions  come  in  slowly.  Work  is  going  on 
now,  but  the  renovations  are  being  made  in  a  lighter 
style  of  architecture,  that  scarcely  harmonizes  with  the 
strength  and  simple  grandeur  of  the  old  building. 

Trondhjem  is  situated  in  one  of  the  few  fertile  spots 
of  Norway.  Grassy  fields  and  flowery  hillsides  are 
close  by  the  city.  A  beautiful  graveyard  lies  about  the 
cathedral,  and  upon  most  of  the  graves  are  set  small 
urns  or  vases  filled  with  flowers. 

One  expedition  which  is  made  by  most  visitors  to 
Norway  is  that  to  the  North  Cape.  An  accommodation 


MODERN    EUROPE.  107 

steamer  from  Trondhjem  makes  the  round  trip  in 
eleven  days;  a  fast-sailing  steamer  takes  but  eight. 

The  voyage  is  enjoyed  by  every  one,  because  the  way 
lies  between  the  shore  and  the  chain  of  rocky  islands 
which  break  the  swell  of  the  Atlantic  waves.  The 
water  is  calm,  so  that  travelers  are  rarely  seasick. 

The  scenery  is  remarkably  beautiful.  The  mountains 
on  each  side  tower  into  the  sky,  and  are  perfectly  re- 
flected in  the  water.  Although  only  one-half  the  height 
of  the  Alps,  they  appear  quite  as  tall,  because  they  rise 
directly  from  the  level  surface  of  the  sea.  Snow  crowns 
the  tops  of  the  mountains,  while  glaciers  creep  down 
their  sides.  Forests  and  waterfalls  give  variety  and 
softening  beauty  to  the  stern  country.  We  pass  many 
rivers  famous  for  the  large  salmon  found  in  their  waters. 
Some  of  the  streams  have  been  let  to  Englishmen  for 
the  summer  sport. 

Now  and  then  the  steamer  runs  into  a  school  of  por- 
poises, or  the  spout  of  a  whale  is  seen  against  the  sky. 
Gulls  and  eider  ducks  fly  screaming  from  the  islands  on 
the  left. 

These  ducks  are  protected  by  law,  as  they  form  a 
means  of  livelihood  to  people  in  this  district.  They 
make  their  nests  of  sedge,  and  line  them  with  feathers 
plucked  from  their  breasts.  The  feathers  are  gathered 
and  exported.  The  birds  will  line  the  nest  three  times. 
Jf  its  third  lining  is  stolen,  they  will  then  desert  it. 

The  down  is  remarkably  soft,  warm,  and  elastic.  It 
is  used  in  lining  quilts  and  in  trimming  cloaks,  dresses, 
and  wraps. 

The  steamer  is  now  approaching  the  Lofoden  Islands, 


108  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

where  the  scenery  is  finest.  Tourists  say  that  here 
Norway  fully  equals  Switzerland  in  grand  beauty. 
The  maelstrom,  about  which  such  marvelous  stories 
have  been  told,  is  situated  between  two  of  the  south- 
most  islands.  It  was  once  believed  to  be  a  wonderful 
whirlpool,  which  had  sucked  into  its  awful  depths 
mighty  ships  and  even  whole  fleets.  But  the  facts  have 
been  greatly  exaggerated.  The  maelstrom  is  merely  a 
swift  current  running  between  the  two  islands ;  it  would 
only  be  dangerous  to  navigate  if  a  storm  should  arise 
from  the  northwest.  Whales  may  have  been  caught 
there  and  drowned,  but  that  is  all. 

The  Lofoden  Islands  are  the  center  of  the  cod  fishing, 
which  takes  place  in  the  spring  of  the  year.  At  other 
seasons  the  islands  and  fiords  are  deserted ;  but  in  Feb- 
ruary and  March  fishing  boats  and  their  crews  are 
everywhere. 

Fish  throng  about  the  northwestern  coast  of  Norway, 
because  of  the  abundance  of  sea  creatures  which  are 
brought  down  by  the  Arctic  current  flowing  past  the 
east  coast  of  Greenland.  The  warm  Gulf  Stream  also 
bathes  this  western  coast;  and  that  is  why  Norway, 
though  in  the  latitude  of  Iceland  and  Greenland,  is  not 
much  colder  than  the  northern  United  States. 

East  of  the  Lofoden  Islands  are  three  banks  beneath 
the  sea.  Here,  in  this  shallow  water,  cod  gather  in  the 
spring.  They  are  taken  by  nets  and  by  trawls. 

The  nets  are  left  in  the  same  place  for  several  days. 
The  fish  are  always  caught  at  night,  and  every  morning 
the  nets  are  examined  and  the  fish  removed.  One  thou- 
sand fish  are  sometimes  taken  in  a  single  night. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  109 

The  cod  are  spread  either  upon  the  rocks  or  upon 
rough  wooden  frames.  In  the  latter  case,  they  are  dried 
bv  the  action  of  both  sun  and  air ;  in  the  former  case, 
by  the  sun  alone.  They  are  then  salted  and  exported 
to  France,  Spain,  and  Italy.  The  heads  of  the  cod  are 
used  in  enriching  the  soil ;  and  the  oil  is  manufactured 
into  cod-liver  oil,  so  prized  by  doctors,  so  hated  by 
patients. 

The  cod  is  the  central  fishery  of  Norway.  The  her- 
ring fishery  lies  to  the  south,  and  the  seal  and  whale 
fisheries  to  the  far  north,  near  the  island  of  Spitzbergen. 

Leaving  the  Lofoden  Islands,  we  set  sail  for  Trom- 
soe,  Hammerfest,  and  the  remote  North  Cape.  Ever 
since  the  vessel  le.^  Trondhjem,  we  have  been  witness- 
ing the  strange  phenomenon  of  the  "midnight  sun." 
No  candles  are  needed  during  the  entire  voyage,  for  the 
nights  are  nearly  as  light  as  the  days.  One  can  read 
the  finest  print  at  midnight,  and  sleepless  passengers 
often  amuse  themselves  by  writing  letters  or  reading. 

It  is  difficult  to  tell  when  it  is  time  to  go  to  bed,  and 
when  to  get  up.  Watches  are  very  little  help  unless 
they  are  set  every  day.  The  time  changes  continually, 
as  the  vessel  is  moving  east  all  the  way  to  the  cape. 

The  reason  why  there  is  this  constant  light  is  that 
during  the  summer  months,  the  only  time  when  the 
trips  to  the  cape  can  be  taken,  the  sun  never  goes  far 
below  the  horizon.  It  always  throws  some  light  over 
the  sky. 

Every  place  within  the  Arctic  circle  has  one  or  more 
summer  days,  when  the  sun  never  sets.  It  can  be 
watched  all  day  circling  about  the  heavens,  now  high  in 


110  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

the  sky,  now  low  near  the  horizon  line,  but  visible 
throughout  the  twenty-four  hours.  Each  place  has  just 
as  many  days  of  midday  darkness  as  it  has  days  of  mid- 
night light. 

As  we  sail  northward,  the  sunrises  and  sunsets  become 
wonderfully  beautiful.  They  also  approach  one  another. 

The  sun  sinks  below  the  horizon  leaving  a  flood  of 
sunset  gold  behind.  While  those  on  deck  are  still 
watching  the  sky,  a  singular  change  appears.  A  pink 
glow  arises  near  the  golden  sunset,  and  lo !  the  sun  ap- 
pears again.  But  this  time  he  is  a  rising,  not  a  setting, 
sun. 

The  combined  colors  are  thrown  upon  the  snowy 
mountain  peaks,  and  reflected  in  the  smooth  sea.  The 
whole  trip  abounds  in  strikingly  beautiful  sights. 

The  steamer  stops  V;  Tromsoe,  where  eider  quilts  and 
wraps  can  be  purchased,  and  then  goes  on  to  Hammer- 
fest.  This,  the  most  northern  town  in  Europe,  is  a 
fishing  station.  All  along  the  shore  may  be  seen  fish 
drying  on  wooden  frames.  There  are  also  numerous 
cod-liver  oil  factories. 

After  a  few  hours'  sail  from  Hammerfest,  we  come  in 
sight  of  the  North  Cape.  It  is  a  bare  rock  about  one 
thousand  feet  high,  with  the  dark  gray  Arctic  Ocean 
rolling  round  it  on  all  sides.  There  is  a  sheltered  cove 
on  the  southern  side,  where  the  steamer  anchors  and  the 
passengers  are  taken  ashore  in  boats. 

The  sides  of  the  cape  are  most  abrupt.  A  zigzag 
path  runs  directly  up  the  face  of  the  cliff,  with  a  rope 
balustrade  in  the  most  dangerous  places.  After  a  hard 
climb  of  twenty  minutes,  the  summit  is  reached. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  Ill 

It  is  a  bleak  tableland,  with  nothing  growing  upon  it 
but  moss  and  lichens.  A  pathway,  indicated  by  a  wire 
line  supported  by  low  posts,  leads  to  the  northern  side 
of  the  cape.  It  is  necessary  to  have  a  guide  of  some 
sort,  lest,  in  cloudy  weather,  tourists  should  lose  their 
way  and  fall  into  the  sea. 

When  we  arrive  on  the  northern  side,  we  look  across 
a  gray  ocean  rolling  beneath  a  gray  sky.  To  the  east 
and  west  stretches  the  cold  coast  line  of  Europe.  Aside 
from  our  small  party,  there  is  no  sign  of  life  except  the 
little  steamer  which  has  circled  the  cape  and  is  now 
rocking  below. 

Presently  there  is  a  deep  echoing  boom  from  the 
ship's  cannon.  The  captain  is  saluting  his  passengers 
on  the  cape.  At  the  sound,  thousands  of  screaming  sea- 
gulls rise  from  the  water  and  the  sides  of  the  cape.  For 
several  moments  the  air  seems  full  of  whirring  wings, 
and  then  all  is  as  silent  as  before. 

Sometimes  travelers  camp  on  the  North  Cape  for  a 
day  or  two  in  order  to  see  the  "  midnight  sun."  Oftener 
than  not,  parties  who  have  journeyed  across  the  ocean 
to  stand  on  North  Cape  and  watch  that  sight  see  nothing 
but  storm  and  clouds,  and  are  obliged  to  return  to  Ham- 
merfest  and  wait  for  better  weather. 

That  portion  of  Norway  and  Sweden  which  lies 
within  the  Arctic  circle  is  known  as  Lapland.  The  sec- 
tion of  Arctic  Russia  lying  west  of  the  White  Sea  is 
also  included  in  Lapland. 

The  Lapps  are  a  most  peculiar-looking  people.  They 
are  quite  short,  not  being  more  than  four  feet  high,  and 
stout.  They  have  a  dark  yellowish  complexion,  straight 


112 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


black  hair,  small  blue  eyes,  high  cheek  bones,  turned-up 
noses,  and  wide  mouths.  They  dress  chiefly  in  reindeer 
skins. 

Their  huts  are  dome-shaped,  and  are  made  of  stones 
covered  with  turf.  In  the  center  of  the  floor  is  a  stone 
fireplace,  over  which  an  iron  pot  or  kettle  is  suspended 


LAPP'S    HUT. 


from  a  tripod.  The  place  is  very  smoky  and  dirty. 
Babies  and  dogs  tumble  about  the  floor,  while  the  grown 
people  sit  before  the  fire  on  mounds  of  hay  covered  with 
skins. 

Reindeer  form  the  chief  wealth  of  the  Laplanders. 
A  single  encampment  of  Lapps  may  possess  as  many  as 
five  thousand.  The  skin  forms  their  dress,  and  the 


MODERN    EUROPE.  113 

flesh  and  milk  their  food.  All  the  articles  which  they 
offer  the  tourist  are  made  from  the  skin  and  horns  of 
the  reindeer. 

Of  the  skin  they  make  beautiful  soft  rugs  and  curious 
slippers,  turned  up  at  the  toes  and  bound  with  red. 
Horn  knives,  spoons,  and  needlecases  are  very  in- 
geniously carved  by  them,  and  pairs  of  antlers  are 
always  in  demand. 

The  encampment  of  Lapps  near  Tromsb'e  are  very  ac- 
commodating, and  often  drive  reindeer  down  the  moun- 
tain to  satisfy  the  curiosity  of  the  traveler.  The  deer 
seem  very  wild,  and  their  knees  crack  loudly  as  they 
run  around  the  fenced  pasture. 

Now  let  us  leave  Norway,  and  turn  to  its  sister  coun- 
try of  Sweden.  Sweden  is  larger  than  Norway,  and  is 
much  more  level.  Forests  of  pine,  fir,  and  birch  cover 
one  half  of  its  surface,  while  most  of  the  remaining  half 
is  made  up  of  lakes  and  rivers. 

The  Swedes,  like  the  Norwegians,  are  farmers.  The 
farm  life  in  the  two  countries  is  very  much  alike,  except 
that  lonely  farms  are  less  common  in  Sweden.  Both 
Norwegians  and  Swedes  are  intelligent,  industrious 
people. 

Sweden  is  more  like  the  other  nations  of  Europe  in 
the  prompt  way  in  which  her  steamers  and  trains  run. 
In  Norway,  a  boat  is  considered  on  time  if  it  arrives 
one  hour  either  before  or  after  the  time  set.  Often  the 
unfortunate  traveler  is  called  at  three  in  the  morning  to 
take  a  boat  which  does  not  arrive  till  five ;  or,  to  his 
dismay,  he  awakes  to  hear  at  one  o'clock  the  departing 
whistle  of  the  boat  he  was  to  be  aroused  to  take  at 


114  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

three.  It  would  be  very  provoking,  if  it  were  not  so 
funny. 

To  form  a  good  idea  of  Sweden  the  traveler  should 
visit  the  copper  and  iron  regions  and  make  a  tour  of  the 
Gotha  Canal,  staying  a  short  time  in  the  cities  of  Stock- 
holm and  Gothenburg,  which  it  connects. 

The  copper  mines  are  at  Falun,  a  town  a  little  over  a 
hundred  miles  northwest  of  Stockholm.  The  mass  of 
copper  is  in  the  shape  of  an  immense  cone,  with  the 
apex  pointed  downward.  The  shaft  of  the  mine  is  three 
hundred  feet  deep,  and  is  descended  by  steep,  winding 
stairs. 

At  the  base  of  the  shaft  is  a  chamber  one  thousand 
feet  square,  with  smaller  chambers  leading  from  it.  In 
one  of  these  chambers  a  banquet  was  once  served  to  the 
king  and  queen  of  Sweden,  and  at  the  same  time  the 
mine  was  illuminated.  Royal  and  noted  names  may  be 
seen  carved  upon  the  wall.  Many  of  them  have,  been 
enclosed  in  glass  cases. 

If  any  one  cares,  he  may  descend  seven  hundred  feet 
farther,  to  the  lowest  depth  that  the  mine  has  yet  been 
worked.  Throughout,  the  ventilation  is  perfect. 

Leaving  Falun  and  its  great  copper  mountain,  we  will 
proceed  southeasterly  to  the  marshy  plain  of  Denemora, 
where  are  situated  the  celebrated  iron  mines.  The  shaft 
is  five  hundred  feet  deep,  and  can  be  descended  either 
by  ladders  or  by  baskets  worked  by  pulleys.  The  iron 
is  of  good  quality,  and  is  further  improved  by  being 
smelted  with  charcoal.  The  steel  made  from  this  iron 
is  very  fine. 

There  are  other  valuable  iron  mines  in  Sweden,  but 


MODERN    EUROPE.  115 

they  are  situated  in  such  inaccessible  regions  that  they 
are  not  worked.  Both  iron  and  steel  are  exported  from 
Sweden. 

The  train  from  Denemora  to  Stockholm  takes  us  by 
Upsala.  In  the  streets  of  Upsala  are  seen  many  a  fair- 
faced  Swedish  boy,  upon  whose  bright  head  rests  a  black 
and  white  college  cap  with  a  rosette  of  the  Swedish  na- 
tional colors  conspicuously  fastened  in  front. 

Upsala  is  a  university  town.  It  contains,  besides  a 
cathedral,  the  college  buildings  and  the  house  of  the 
great  botanist  Linnaeus.  The  house  has  been  turned 
into  a  kind  of  memorial  museum  of  Linnaeus,  though  his 
collections  were  purchased  by  England  and  removed  to 
that  country. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Upsala  are  various  relics  of 
antiquity,  such  as  great  mounds  which  are  said  to  be  the 
burial  places  of  the  old  Scandinavian  gods,  Thor,  Odin, 
and  Frey,  and  rocks  where  the  early  kings  were  elected 
and  on  which  they  stood  to  make  their  addresses  and  to 
receive  the  allegiance  of  their  people. 

As  one  approaches  Stockholm,  the  capital  of  Sweden, 
it  appears  as  if  a  dense  cloud  were  overhanging  it.  But 
a  nearer  view  shows  the  cloud  to  be  but  a  close  network 
of  telephone  wires.  There  are  more  telephones  in  Stock- 
holm, in  proportion  to  its  inhabitants,  than  in  any  other 
city  in  Europe.  It  costs  but  two  and  a  half  cents  to 
send  a  message. 

Stockholm  was  built  six  hundred  years  ago  on  three 
little  islands  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maelar  Lake.  This  lake, 
though  really  an  arm  of  the  sea,  contains  fresh  water, 
owing  to  the  numerous  rivers  flowing  into  it.  Stockholm 


116  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

has  grown  so  that  it  now  occupies  nine  islands  and  both 
shores  of  the  mainland.  The  different  fractions  of  the 
city  are  connected  by  small  bridges,  and  little  steam 
launches  ply  back  and  forth  through  the  place  continually. 
The  name  of  "the  Venice  of  the  North"  has  been  very 
aptly  applied  to  Stockholm. 

Perhaps  the  most  noticeable  feature  of  the  city  is  the 
great  number  of  small  parks  and  gardens  that  it  contains. 
In  the  summer  Stockholm,  is  as  light  as  day  till  mid- 
night, and  the  people  enjoy  themselves  after  their  work. 
At  nine  o'clock  many  of  them  walk  to  the  nearest  hill 
to  see  the  sunset.  Then  they  resort  to  one  of  the  parks 
or  gardens. 

Near  every  park  are  several  cafe*  and  concert  gardens, 
which  present  a  very  attractive  appearance.  The  trees 
are  hung  with  lanterns,  not  because  their  light  is  needed, 
but  merely  that  their  glow  may  give  an  added  brilliancy 
to  the  scene.  Beneath  the  trees  are  tables,  where  family 
parties  or  opera  parties  are  served  with  black  coffee,  ices, 
or  Swedish  punch,  by  the  busy  waiters  in  dress  suits. 

In  every  garden  is  a  brass  band  which  plays  continu- 
ally, to  the  great  delight  of  the  Swedes,  who  are  a  music- 
loving  people.  It  is  not  until  midnight  that  the  festive 
sounds  of  music  cease,  or  the  streets  become  deserted. 

In  a  suburb  of  Stockholm  is  the  house  of  Emanuel 
Swedenborg,  the  founder  of  the  Church  of  the  New 
Jerusalem.  His  faith  has  more  followers  in  the  United 
States  than  in  his  own  country.  The  stronghold  of  the 
Swedenborgians  is  in  Boston. 

Stockholm  is  connected  with  Gothenburg,  the  second 
city  of  Sweden,  by  the  Gotha  Canal.  It  was  thought 


MODERN    EUROPE.  117 

that  if  such  a  canal  were  built,  it  would  be  of  great  ad- 
vantage in  case  of  war.  If  you  glance  at  the  map,  you 
will  see  how  the  peninsula  of  Jutland  commands  the 
Cattegat.  If  she  wished,  Denmark  might  easily  pre- 
vent any  vessels  from  passing  through  the  strait. 
Suppose  the  Swedish  war  ships  were  at  Stockholm,  and 
were  seriously  needed  at  Gothenburg.  Before  the 
building  of  the  canal  their  way  could  be  blocked  by 
Denmark;  but  now  that  the  canal  is  built,  there  is 
nothing  to  prevent  free  passage  between  the  east  and 
west  coasts. 

The  canal  was  opened  in  1855.  It  was  an  exceed- 
ingly difficult  piece  of  work  to  accomplish,  and  the  gov- 
ernment had  been  working  on  it  fitfully  ever  since  the 
beginning  of  the  nineteenth  century.  Much  of  the 
route  could  be  accomplished  by  lakes  and  rivers,  but  in 
several  places  deep  cuttings  had  to  be  made. 

The  most  difficult  bit  of  work  in  the  whole  canal  was 
the  cutting  about  the  Trollhattan  Falls,  in  the  Gotha 
River,  some  little  distance  above  Gothenburg.  A  chan- 
nel, one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  long,  ten  feet  deep, 
ninety  feet  wide  at  the  surface,  and  fifty  feet  at  the  bot- 
tom, was  cut  through  the  solid  rock. 

The  whole  canal  is  three  hundred  and  seventy  miles 
in  length.  For  the  first  hundred  miles  from  Stockholm 
it  closely  follows  the  coast  line  of  the  Baltic  Sea  south- 
ward,  before  turning  toward  the  west.  Small  steamers 
run  four  times  a  week,  accommodating  about  twenty 
passengers.  The  trip  occupies  two  days  and  a  half; 
but  as  the  steamers  run  during  the  night,  the  traveler 
loses  much  of  the  scenery. 


118  THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  Swedish  landscape,  though  not  wildly  beautiful 
like  that  of  Norway,  is  quiet  and  peaceful.  There  is 
much  sameness  in  the  succession  of  level  fields  and  dark 
forests.  Sometimes  the  branches  meet  over  the  canal 
in  perfect  arches,  and  the  shady  sail  through  the  thick 
woods  seems  strange  and  beautiful.  Again,  the  steamer 
bumps  its  way  through  a  long  line  of  locks.  As  most 
of  the  way  the  canal  is  either  ascending  or  descending, 
there  are,  in  all,  seventy-four  locks  by  means  of  which 
the  steamer  is  raised  or  lowered  to  the  different  levels 
of  the  channel. 

The  highest  point  the  canal  reaches  is  between  Lakes 
Wetter  and  Wener.  These  are  the  two  largest  lakes 
in  Sweden,  and  indeed  Lake  Wener  is  the  third  in  size 
in  Europe.  Only  Lakes  Ladoga  and  Onega  in  Russia 
exceed  it  in  size. 

The  scenery  on  the  shores  of  Lake  Wener  is  very 
beautiful.  The  lake  is  one  hundred  miles  long  and 
fifty  wide.  In  crossing  it,  we  lose  sight  of  land. 

Perhaps  the  most  picturesque  spot  on  the  way  is  the 
Trollhattan  Falls.  While  the  steamer  is  slowly  circling 
through  the  wonderful  cut,  the  passenger  strolls  up 
to  look  at  the  falls.  There  are  seven  cataracts.  They 
do  not  seem  high  to  one  fresh  from  the  falls  of  Norway, 
but  they  are  remarkable  for  the  immense  volume  of 
water  passing  over  them. 

The  shores  and  the  few  islands  among  the  falls  are 
clothed  with  dark  fir  trees.  The  white,  foamy  water 
stuns  every  one  with  its  roar.  No  voice  but  its  own  can 
be  heard  on  its  banks.  The  falls  are  well  named ;  for 
Trollhattan  means  the  "  home  of  the  water  witches." 


MODERN    EUROPE.  119 

Gothenburg,  the  terminus  of  the  Gotha  Canal,  is  the 
chief  city  on  the  western  coast.  It  was  once  the  center 
of  the  fisheries  on  the  Skager  Rack.  It  is  a  very  im- 
portant commercial  city,  having  close  connection  by 
steamer  with  nearly  every  country  in  western  and 
southwestern  Europe. 

The  influence  of  the  English  is  felt  everywhere.  The 
traveler  who  lands  at  Gothenburg,  is  very  much  sur- 
prised to  find  in  this,  his  first  Swedish  town,  English 
spoken  on  the  street  and  at  the  wharves  and  warehouses. 
This  is  owing  to  the  fact  that  many  English  merchants 
have  come  here  to  live. 

Gothenburg  is  like  a  Dutch  city  in  having  canals 
running  through  its  long,  straight  streets.  Square  brick 
houses  line  the  ways,  and  a  statue  of  Gustavus  Adol- 
phus  adorns  the  principal  square.  The  inhabitants 
seem  fully  to  appreciate  their  fine  parks,  for  on  all  occa- 
sions they  are  thronged.  The  Swedes  have  a  great 
fondness  for  outdoor  life. 

It  is  at  Gothenburg  that  we  take  the  steamer  for 
Copenhagen,  the  capital  of  Denmark. 


CHAPTER  VI. 

THE   LAND   OF   HANS   CHRISTIAN  ANDERSEN. 

Every  child  is  familiar  with  the  name  of  Hans  Ander- 
sen, the  Danish  story  teller.  The  beeches  and  birches 
whispered  their  secrets  to  him,  and  the  great  waves  of 
the  sea,  the  long  lines  of  sand  hills,  and  even  the  birds 


120  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

and  beasts  told  him  their  stories.  The  great  man  lis- 
tened like  a  child  to  the  voice  of  nature,  and  then  turned 
and  told,  in  the  words  of  a  child,  what  had  been  imparted 
to  him.  He  spoke  directly  to  the  children ;  but  their 
elders  are  often  glad  to  gather  about  him  too,  and  listen 
to  his  kind,  wise  words. 

Hans  Andersen  has  been  dead  a  number  of  years,  but 
his  stories  of  "  The  Little  Match  Girl,"  "The  Ugly 
Duckling,"  "  The  Marsh  King's  Daughter,"  and  "  The 
Tin  Soldier"  are  known  and  loved  in  many  English  and 
American  homes. 

Denmark  consists  of  the  northern  half  of  the  penin- 
sula of  Jutland,  and  a  group  of  several  islands  lying  to 
the  east  and  nearly  filling  the  entrance  to  the  Baltic 
Sea.  The  largest  of  these  islands  is  Zealand.  The 
second  in  size  is  Fiinen,  on  the  northeastern  corner  of 
which  is  the  town  of  Odense.  Here,  in  1805,  Hans 
Andersen  was  born. 

His  family  was  poor,  but  the  boy  was  exceedingly 
ambitious.  From  a  mere  child  he  had  longed  to  be  an 
actor  and  to  make  plays.  Having  saved  about  eight 
dollars,  he  begged  his  mother  to  let  him  go  to  Copen- 
hagen, the  capital,  and  seek  his  fortune.  His  mother 
consulted  a  wise  woman,  or,  as  we  should  say  to-day,  a 
fortune  teller.  The  woman  studied  a  pack  of  cards 
intently,  and  then  said,  "  Your  son  will  be  a  great  man, 
and,  in  honor  of  him,  one  day  Odense  will  be  illumi- 
nated." 

For  once  a  fortune  teller  was  right.  The  ignorant 
mother  gave  Andersen  his  wish,  and  the  poor,  inexpe- 
rienced, talented  boy  crossed  the  Great  Belt,  the  rough 


MODERN    EUROPE.  121 

channel  between  his  home  and  the  island  of  Zealand, 
and,  on  landing,  knelt  in  prayer  before  journeying  on  to 
the  city  of  Copenhagen.  What  it  looked  like  then  I 
cannot  tell  you  exactly.  Many  of  the  buildings  and 
towers  are  the  same  on  which  the  boy  Hans  fixed  his 
trusting  gray  eyes,  but  there  have  been  many  changes 
of  course  in  three-quarters  of  a  century.  It  is  the  Copen- 
hagen of  to-day  that  I  shall  try  to  show  you. 

Copenhagen  resembles  Stockholm  in  being  a  city 
made  up  of  bits  of  land  and  water.  It  is  almost  a  mo- 
saic of  blue  lake  and  sea,  and  of  island  and  peninsula, 
either  green  with  park  or  garden,  or  gray,  red,  and 
brown  with  buildings.  The  city  has  two  main  divisions, 
one  lying  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  island  of  Zealand, 
the  other  on  the  western  side  of  the  island  of  Amager. 
The  two  divisions  face  each  other,  while  between  them 
rolls  an  arm  of  the  Sound  which  forms  their  fine,  well- 
protected  harbor. 

The  word  Copenhagen  means  merchant's  haven,  and 
the  throngs  of  ships  and  steamers  lying  along  both 
shores  seem  to  testify  to  the  fact  that  the  merchants  are 
indeed  growing  rich  in  this  flourishing  city.  Merchan- 
dise is  piled  everywhere  on  the  long  piers.  Ships  are 
being  laden  with  corn  and  dairy  products.  Only  Eng- 
land and  Belgium  raise  more  corn  than  does  Denmark. 
This  is  the  more  remarkable,  as  much  of  the  peninsula 
of  Jutland,  the  largest  section  of  Denmark,  consists  of 
bogs,  sandy  flats,  and  heather-covered  plains.  Danish 
butter  is  famous  for  its  sweetness  and  freshness.  The 
exporters  have  a  method  of  packing  it  so  as  to  exclude 
the  air,  which  other  dealers  have  vainly  tried  to  dis- 
cover. 


122  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

The  barren  fields  of  Denmark  afford  excellent  pastur- 
age, and  cattle  and  horses  form  one  of  the  chief  exports 
of  the  country.  Many  beautiful,  spirited  horses  are  sent 
to  Germany  to  serve  as  war  horses  in  the  Emperor's 
army. 

Shipbuilding  is  a  profitable  industry  of  Copenhagen, 
and  the  skeleton  frames  of  mighty  ships  are  seen  rising 
from  day  to  day  in  the  many  shipyards  bordering  the 
harbor. 

The  streets  are  winding  and  narrow,  but  exquisitely 
clean.  Omnibuses  and  carts  go  rattling  through  them, 
past  the  tall,  straight  lines  of  houses  with  brown  chim- 
neys, red-tiled  roofs,  and  tiny  dormer  windows.  The 
shops  are  built  over  very  high  basements,  so  that  their 
show  windows  are  on  a  level  with  the  eyes  of  pass- 
ers-by. Book  and  photograph  stores  are  numerous.  In 
the  windows  of  the  latter  are  displayed  pictures  of  An- 
dersen and  Thorwaldsen,  the  two  heroes  of  Denmark. 

Many  of  the  streets  on  the  east  have  canals  running 
through  them ;  there  the  city  has  a  Dutch  appearance, 
especially  when  sailboats  are  moored  far  up  the  canal, 
so  that  their  masts  rise  amid  the  dark  chimneys  of  the 
houses. 

Another  section  of  this  same  city  resembles  Paris. 
This  is  because  its  high  surrounding  walls  have  been 
removed  and  the  space  thus  obtained  has  been  laid  out 
in  ornamental  walks  and  boulevards.  Copenhagen  is 
healthier,  now  that  the  close,  shading  walls  have  given 
place  to  sunlight  and  fresh  air. 

A  most  interesting  view  of  Copenhagen  can  be  ob- 
tained by  climbing  any  one  of  the  lofty  towers  that  dot 


MODERN    EUROPE.  .128 

the  city  here  and  there.  To  the  west  are  forests  of  dark 
green  beech,  the  native  tree  of  Denmark.  To  the  north 
and  south  are  emerald  green  pastures,  with  here  and 
there  an  old  windmill  lazily  swinging  its  sails  in  the 
gentle  morning  wind.  A  train  is  creeping  over  the  level 
plain  toward  the  city,  which  lies  about  the  tower  and  to 
the  eastward.  The  east  is  a  confused  jumble  of  ware- 
houses, canals,  masts,  smokestacks,  lake,  and  sea.  As 
the  eye  moves  still  further  in  the  same  direction,  it  be- 
holds great  blue,  foam-crested  waves  rolling  into  the 
Sound,  and,  most  distant  of  all,  the  faint  line  of  the 
Swedish  coast. 

The  country  spread  out  before  us  is  remarkably  flat. 
It  is  the  same  with  the  whole  of  Denmark.  It  is,  per- 
haps, next  to  Holland,  the  flattest  country  in  Europe. 
A  hill  one  hundred  feet  high  seems  to  the  Danes  like  a 
mountain.  The  consequence  of  this  general  flatness  is 
that  the  drainage  of  Copenhagen  is  so  poor  that  fevers 
and  cholera  are  frequent. 

Looking  more  directly  at  the  city  itself,  we  can  but 
notice,  among  hosts  of  other  less  conspicuous  buildings, 
tw6  great  palaces  standing  in  courts  or  gardens  of  their 
own,  one  spire,  and  one  huge  tower.  The  palaces, 
Chris tiansborg  and  Rosenborg,  we  shall  visit  presently  ; 
but  the  others  we  can  study  from  our  airy  perch. 

The  spire  rises  from  a  fine  brick  building  which  is 
used  as  the  Exchange.  It  is  formed  of  four  bronze 
dragons  with  their  tails  twisted  together  high  in  the  air. 
It  has  a  foreign,  almost  eastern  effect,  as  the  cold  north- 
ern sunlight  glints  and  gleams  from  the  bronze.  How- 
ever, it  was  not  brought  from  Persia,  Turkey,  or  India, 


124  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

but  from  Sweden  yonder.  When  the  two  countries 
were  at  war,  this  spire  was  taken  as  booty,  carried 
bodily  over  the  Sound,  and  set  up  in  Copenhagen. 

The  tower  we  have  noted  is  remarkable  for  being 
ascended  by  a  covered  road.  This  road  is  carried  up- 
ward in  a  spiral  to  the  summit,  which  is  a  great  bronze 
dome  commanding  a  beautiful  prospect.  Two  Russian 
sovereigns  have  visited  the  tower, — Peter  the  Great  and, 
years  later,  Queen  Catherine.  The  ascent  is  so  smooth 
and  easy  that  there  is  little  doubt  as  to  the  truth  of  the 
stories  that  Peter  cantered  up  on  his  horse,  and  that 
Catherine  rode  up  in  a  coach  and  four. 

While  we  are  proceeding  to  the  square  on  which 
Christiansborg  Palace  fronts,  let  me  tell  you  something 
of  Bertel  Thorwaldsen,  the  man  of  whom  we  are  re- 
minded at  every  turn.  Pie  was  born  in  1770  in  Copen- 
hagen. He  was  a  poor  man's  son ;  but  he  came  into  the 
world  endowed  with  a  wonderful  power  both  of  imagin- 
ing strong  and  beautiful  faces  and  figures,  and  of  carv- 
ing out  his  visions. 

His  father  made  the  figureheads  for  many  strong 
Danish  ships.  Bertel  helped  him  in  his  work,  and  dis- 
played such  talent  that  at  the  age  of  eleven  he  was 
sent  to  the  Academy  of  Arts.  From  that  time,  by  his 
own  industry,  he  made  his  way  upward,  till  he  gained 
the  gold  medal  which  gave  him  the  opportunity  and 
means  for  traveling  and  studying. 

He  went  to  Rome,  and  there  toiled  ceaselessly.  At 
the  end  of  six  years,  poor,  discouraged,  and  friendless, 
he  was  about  to  return  in  despair  to  his  native  land. 
In  this  crisis  he  was  found  by  a  wealthy  Englishman, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  125 

who,  seeing  the  plaster  model  of  the  afterwards  cele- 
brated "  Jason,"  ordered  it  to  be  executed  in  marble. 

From  that  time  Thorwaldsen  went  on  from  honor  to 
glory.  On  each  of  his  few  visits  to  Denmark,  he  was 
received  like  a  prince  and  entertained  at  the  royal 
palace.  At  the  age  of  sixty-eight  he  packed  up  his 
works  of  art  and  the  treasures  he  had  collected  at  Rome, 
and  returned  to  end  his  days  in  his  native  city.  He 
died  six  years  afterward.  As  a  sculptor  he  ranks  next 
to  Michael  Angelo. 

He  and  Andersen  were  great  friends.  Thorwaldsen 
used  to  enjoy  hearing  Andersen  narrate  his  own  stories. 
Once  he  clapped  his  old  friend  on  the  shoulder  and 
asked  eagerly,  "Shall  we  little  ones  have  any  fairy 
stories  to-night?  "  Perhaps  he  asked  for  "  The  Top  and 
the  Ball,"  or  "  The  Ugly  Duckling,"  for  those  were  his 
favorites. 

The  Christiansborg  Palace,  which  faces  on  a  large 
square,  is  but  an  immense,  white,  uninteresting  object 
when  compared  with  a  low  building  of  brick  and  stucco 
that  occupies  another  side  of  the  square.  This  is  the 
Thorwaldsen  Museum,  a  great  monument  to  a  great 
man. 

The  building  is  constructed  with  an  interior  court,  in 
the  center  of  which  is  buried  the  sculptor.  His  tomb 
is  marked  by  a  low  mound  covered  with  ivy. 

In  the  forty-two  rooms  of  the  surrounding  museum 
are  collected  all  Thorwaldsen's  works.  When  the  orig- 
inal marble  is  not  present,  it  is  represented  by  a  plaster 
cast.  There  are  one  hundred  and  nine  works  in  marble, 
and  several  hundred  plaster  casts  of  statues,  busts,  re- 


126  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

liefs,  and  monuments.  One  very  interesting  room  con- 
tains the  gems,  coins,  vases,  and  paintings  collected  by 
him  while  in  Rome.  Another  room  contains  his  furni- 
ture and  personal  belongings. 

Thorwaldsen  had  his  wish.  He  lies  amid  the  works 
of  his  hand  which  he  had  bequeathed  to  the  city  of  his 
birth.  This  is  considered  by  many  the  most  interesting 
spot  in  all  Denmark.  It  has  been  called  the  "Mecca  of 
the  North." 

Over  the  doorway  of  the  museum  is  placed  a  bronze 
statue  of  Victory,  while  around  three  sides  of  the  build- 
ing is  a  bas-relief,  representing  the  arrival  and  unload- 
ing of  the  ships  bringing  Thorwaldsen  and  his  works 
from  Rome  to  Copenhagen. 

Perhaps  the  most  perfect  statue  that  Thorwaldsen 
ever  executed  is  of  the  Saviour.  It  is  placed  in  the 
Church  of  Our  Lady,  which  is  chiefly  remarkable  for 
containing  many  of  the  works  of  the  great  sculptor. 
Several  friezes  decorate  the  vestibule  and  the  entrances 
to  the  chapels.  There  is  a  most  exquisite  marble  angel 
kneeling  by  the  baptismal  font.  But  undoubtedly  the 
most  noticeable  figures  are  those  of  Christ  and  his  dis- 
ciples. 

The  disciples  stand  in  line  on  each  side  of  the  nave, 
and  lead  the  way  to  the  central  figure  above  the  altar. 
Christ  is  represented  with  open  arms,  saying  to  the 
world,  "  Come  unto  me  and  I  will  give  you  rest."  It  is 
considered  the  most  perfect  statue  of  Christ  in  the 
world.  Thorwaldsen  did  the  whole  work  himself,  not 
entrusting  any  portion  of  it  to  his  pupils,  as  was  his 
custom.  When  it  was  finished,  he  was  seized  with 


MODERN    EUROPE.  127 

despondency.  "My  genius  is  decaying,"  he  said  to 
his  friends,  "my  statue  of  Christ  is  the  first  of  my 
works  that  I  have  ever  felt  satisfied  with.  Till  now 
my  idea  has  always  been  far  beyond  what  I  could  exe- 
cute ;  but  it  is  so  no  longer.  I  shall  never  have  a  great 
idea  again." 

One  could  study  the  history  of  the  Danes  from  the 
earliest  period  down  to  the  present  time  from  two  great 
collections.  One  is  contained  in  the  Museum  of  North- 
ern Antiquities,  and  the  other  in  Rosenborg  Palace. 
The  Scandinavian  and  German  nations  are  much  in- 
terested in  the  collection  and  study  of  antiquities,  while 
their  lands  are  rich  in  buried  curiosities  of  all  sorts. 

In  the  museum  weapons  of  war,  domestic  utensils, 
articles  of  the  chase,  pottery,  and  many  other  kinds  of 
articles  are  arranged  and  classified  into  those  belonging 
to  the  five  different  periods  of  antiquity,  —  the  flint,  the 
bronze,  the  iron,  the  mediaeval,  and  the  modern.  Stu- 
dents may  often  be  seen  in  the  building  studying  and 
drawing  the  various  valuable  objects. 

Rosenborg  Castle  forms  a  similar  museum  for  a  simi- 
lar collection  belonging  to  modern  times.  For  nearly 
three  hundred  years  a  suite  of  rooms  has  been  given  to 
each  king  of  Denmark.  Each  sovereign  has  furnished 
his  rooms  according  to  the  style  of  his  times.  In  them 
he  has  also  collected  every  rare  and  precious  coin,  gem, 
vase,  or  ornament  which  was  valued  and  sought  after 
in  his  reign.  His  coronation  robes,  weapons,  and  suits 
of  armor  are  here. 

One  room  contains  the  royal  jewels.  In  the  center  of 
the  floor  stands  a  pyramid  of  solid  plate  glass,  beneath 


128  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

which,  on  a  purple  velvet  background,  are  displayed 
countless  precious  stones  worth  millions  of  dollars. 
They  glisten  and  gleam  in  the  sunshine  with  a  blinding 
light. 

Another  room  contains  a  priceless  collection  of  glass. 
Many  of  the  vases  are  equal  to  precious  stones  in  value. 
In  the  collection  are  some  vases  of  thread  glass.  The 
secret  of  making  them  is  lost.  One  man  invented  the 
process,  and  made  his  fortune.  But  he  refused  to  tell 
his  precious  secret;  and  when  he  died,  the  art  was 
lost. 

The  mirror  room  would  interest  and  amuse  you.  Its 
ceiling,  walls,  floors,  doors,  and  windows  are  all  mir- 
rors. It  is  curious,  even  startling,  to  see  so  many 
images  of  one's  self  at  the  same  time. 

It  is  impossible  to  mention  all  the  striking,  interest- 
ing, and  magnificent  objects  one  sees  on  every  hand. 
Here  is  an  exquisitely  carved  silver  and  ivory  horn  that 
a  fairy  from  the  mountain  is  said  to  have  given  Count 
Otto,  a  prince  of  Denmark.  Near  by  is  a  saddle  and 
bridle  studded  with  pearls,  emeralds,  and  diamonds,  to 
the  value  of  half  a  million.  Still  farther  on  lie  the 
blood-stained  clothes  that  Christian  IV.  wore  at  the 
battle  of  Fiinen.  It  was  a  terrible  battle  for  him,  for 
he  received  twenty-three  wounds  and  lost  an  eye. 

The  two  coronation  chairs  for  the  king  and  queen  of 
Denmark  always  attract  attention.  They  are  made  of 
the  ivory  of  the  Arctic  narwhal  and  decorated  with  the 
teeth  of  the  tropical  unicorn,  which  are  more  precious 
than  gold.  Here  are  also  three  enormous  silver  lions, 
known  as  the  "Great  Belt,"  the  "Little  Belt,"  and 


MODERN    EUROPE.  129 

the  "Sound."  Although  of  great  weight,  they  are 
always  borne  through  the  city  in  the  coronation  and 
funeral  processions  of  the  sovereigns.  I  suppose  they 
represent  the  three  principal  Danish  channels  as  pay- 
ing allegiance  to  Denmark. 

The  Rosenborg  Palace  is  of  brick  and  has  several 
towers.  It  is  surrounded  by  pretty  gardens  which  con- 
tain a  statue  of  Hans  Andersen.  The  author  is  repre- 
sented as  telling  a  story  to  several  children,  who  are 
grouped  about  him  in  very  affectionate  and  intent  atti- 
tudes. 

The  Danes,  like  the  Norwegians  and  Swedes,  are  a 
well-educated,  enterprising  people.  They  are  also  ex- 
cessively polite.  The  bowing  and,  at  times,  the  kissing 
that  the  men  perform  on  the  streets  is  remarkable. 
The  peddlers  and  the  expressmen  salute  one  another 
like  eastern  princes. 

The  custom  of  wearing  gloves  is  universal.  Fortu- 
nately gloves  are  not  expensive,  being  made  of  lamb- 
skin and  costing  very  little  more  than  forty  cents  a  pair. 
The  market  women  wear  gloves  with  the  fingers  cut  off. 
They  appear  to  handle  their  fruits  and'  vegetables  in 
the  daintiest  manner  imaginable,  owing  to  their  gloved 
hands. 

The  Danes  differ  from  their  brothers  of  the  North  in 
having  a  more  vivacious  temperament.  They  are  like 
the  Parisians  in  their  fondness  for  dancing,  cards,  arid 
the  theater.  One  of  their  chief  places  of  amusement 
is  the  Tivoli,  a  pleasure  park  which  is  crowded  every 
evening.  Here  one  may  see  the  Dane  enjoying  himself 
after  his  day's  work.  From  six  to  eleven  o'clock  there 


130  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

is  a  mixed  entertainment,  the  character  of  which  changes 
every  half  hour. 

In  order  to  examine  the  gardens  themselves  before 
the  crowd  gathers,  we  will  go  at  five.  We  pay  the 
entrance  fee  of  thirteen  cents,  and  find  ourselves  within 
an  immense  garden  laid  out  with  shady  avenues,  little 
walks  lined  with  copies  of  Thorwaldsen's  works,  bowers, 
and  grottoes.  Here  and  there  are  band  stands,  booths, 
and  cafe's.  In  the  center  is  a  lake,  over  which  a  small 
steamer  is  bravely  puffing  its  way  with  a  deck-load  of 
delighted  passengers. 

If  you  have  spare  change,  you  may  add  to  your  enjoy- 
ment by  taking  a  ride  in  this  dizzy  merry-go-round,  or 
rush  up  and  down  hill  at  a  crazy  rate  arid  fancy  you 
are  tobogganing.  Here  in  this  tent  are  people  satis- 
fying their  curiosity  as  to  how  a  fat  man  or  a  living 
skeleton  may  appear.  Others  are  peeping  at  a  pano- 
rama, and  still  others  are  occupied  in  testing  the  power 
of  their  lungs  by  blowing. 

At  six  the  entertainment  begins  with  a  band  concert; 
then  comes  a  short  dramatic  performance  in  one  of  the 
small  theaters ;  then  sixty  different  instruments  play 
works  of  Wagner  or  Beethoven. 

When  that  is  over,  there  is  a  rush  to  another  part  of 
the  grounds  to  see  "  The  Cannon  King."  This  celeb- 
rity tosses  cannon  balls  in  the  air  and  catches  them 
upon  his  head,  his  arms,  and  his  toes.  As  a  final  proof 
of  his  regency  over  the  cannon,  he  stands  before  the 
gun  and  is  shot.  He  catches  the  ball  in  his  arms  and 
thus  saves  his  valuable  life. 

This  attraction  is  followed  by  another  band  concert,  an 


MODERN    EUROPE.  131 

operetta,  a  trapeze  movement,  and  circus  dancing  on  a 
wire.  Before  this  time  darkness  has  come  on,  and  all 
the  small  restaurants,  having  been  illuminated  with 
colored  lights,  present  a  most  attractive  appearance. 
Outside,  lanterns  are  hung  on  the  trees,  beneath  which 
small  tables  are  spread.  The  crowds  of  people  seat 
themselves,  and  eat  cold  sausage  and  drink  beer  to  the 
sound  of  sweet  music. 

One  more  place  you  must  visit  before  leaving  Den- 
mark, and  that  is  Elsinore,  on  the  northern  point  of  the 
island  of  Zealand.  Just  a  little  way  out  of  the  small  un- 
interesting town,  on  the  point  of  land  nearest  the  Swedish 
coast,  stands  the  Castle  of  Kronberg.  Here  was  the  home 
of  Hamlet,  Prince  of  Denmark,  the  hero  of  one  of  Shake- 
speare's greatest  plays.  It  is  a  square,  gray  old  castle 
with  broad  walls,  deep  moats,  and  many  towers.  One 
broad  platform,  over  which  the  red  Danish  colors  float 
to-day,  is  pointed  out  as  the  place  where  Hamlet  first 
met  the  ghost  of  his  murdered  father. 

Whatever  ghastly  scene  may  have  taken  place  then, 
the  platform  is  a  cheerful  place  to-day,  commanding  a 
fine  view  of  the  bright  waters  of  the  sound,  white  with 
many  sails.  With  the  crystal  sunlight  all  about  one,  it 
is  as  hard  to  bring  back  the  gloomy  Hamlet  as  it  is  to 
revive  those  nearer  days  when  Kronberg  planted  its  can- 
non on  the  battlements  and  exacted  toll  of  every  pass- 
ing foreign  vessel. 

There  are  many  quaint  legends,  aside  from  that  of 
Hamlet,  clustering  around  old  Kronberg.  It  was  for- 
merly said  that  the  dungeons  were  haunted.  Men  volun- 
teered to  explore  them,  but  those  who  went  never  were 


132  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

heard  of  again.  Once  a  brave  youth  entered  the  crypt. 
He  was  gone  only  a  few  moments,  but  returned  with  a 
white  head  and  a  crazed  brain. 

For  a  long  time  the  dungeons  were  let  alone.  At  last 
a  slave  who  had  been  condemned  to  death  was  told  that, 
if  he  would  explore  the  dungeons  and  return  to  tell  the 
fearful  sights  that  met  his  eye,  he  should  have  his  liberty. 

He  went  bravely  down,  lower  and  lower,  while  smoke, 
and  hot  air,  and  fearful  shrieks  and  groans  met  him  at 
every  step.  At  last  he  paused  at  the  door  of  the  lowest 
dungeon,  within  which  he  saw  a  table  surrounded  by  a 
circle  of  knights  in  armor,  all  with  their  faces  bowed  on 
their  hands.  At  the  head  of  the  table  was  seated  a  noble 
warrior,  whom  the  trembling  slave  recognized  as  Ogier, 
the  Dane,  an  ancient  hero  of  Denmark,  who  had  fought 
in  Charlemagne's  wars. 

On  seeing  the  intruder  Ogier  rose  to  his  feet.  The 
table  into  which  his  long  beard  had  grown  was  overturned 
by  his  action.  All  the  knights  raised  their  heads  and 
turned  their  eyes  toward  the  door. 

Ogier  asked  several  questions  as  to  the  welfare  of 
Denmark.  Pleased  with  the  answers  he  received,  he 
held  out  his  hand.  The  slave  was  afraid  to  place  his 
hand  in  the  mailed  clasp  of  Ogier ;  so  he  held  out  an 
iron  bar,  which  the  Dane  took  with  such  a  grip  that  the 
marks  of  his  fingers  were  seen  upon  it.  This  bar  the 
slave  took  to  the  upper  world  and  showed  to  his  mas- 
ters. "His  story  of  the  dungeons  must  be  true,"  they 
said,  "  for  there  was  the  iron  bar." 


MODERN    EUROPE.  133 

CHAPTER  VII. 
THE   LAND   OF   THE    GLORIOUS   SUNSETS. 

You  have  read  of  walled  cities,  —  cities  that  have 
been  fortified  against  the  attacks  of  the  enemy  by  strong 
walls.  But  I  doubt  if  'ever  before  you  have  heard  of  a 
walled  country.  Holland  is  such  a  country.  Its  eternal 
enemy  is  the  sea,  which,  day  after  day  and  year  after 
year,  dashes  itself  against  the  land,  and  retreats  with  a 
deep  roar  of  discomfiture. 

These  walls  are  of  three  kinds.  First,  there  are  the 
natural  high  hills ;  second,  there  are  the  long  low  hills 
of  crowded  sand,  called  dunes,  which  the  wind  has 
heaped  up  along  the  coast ;  and  thirdly,  there  are  the 
dikes,  the  great  walls  of  earth  and  stone  which  the 
patient  Dutchman  has  raised  to  defend  his  home  from 
the  pitiless  North  Sea. 

Another  name  for  Holland  is  "The  Netherlands," 
which  means  the  low  lands.  Holland  is  the  lowest 
country  in  Europe,  for  much  of  it  is  below  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Over  some  of  the  greenest,  most  productive 
fields  the  waves  once  rolled.  How  did  the  Dutch  ever 
get  possession  of  this  land? 

The  ocean  bed  sloped  very  gradually  indeed,  and  per- 
haps fifty  feet  from  the  shore  the  water  would  be  only 
six  feet  deep.  Watching  their  chances,  the  men  of  the 
neighboring  villages  would,  at  low  tide  and  at  favorable 
seasons  of  the  year,  build  dikes.  When  a  bit  of  sea  was 
thus  enclosed,  the  water  would  be  pumped  out  and  a 
great  piece  of  valuable  land  would  have  been  added  to 
the  country. 


134  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

In  this  way  most  of  the  province  of  Zealand,  in  the 
southwestern  part  of  Holland,  has  been  made.  A  piece 
of  land  gained  in  this  way  is  called  a  polder. 

As  it  is  always  probable  that  the  sea  may  sometime 
recover  its  own,  the  dikes  must  be  built  high  and  strong. 
The  Westkappel  dike,  for  example,  is  over  twelve 
thousand  feet  long,  twenty-three  feet  high,  and  thirty- 
nine  feet  thick. 

Dikes  are  made  of  compact  earth,  with  here  and 
there  heavy  stone  buttresses  built  out  into  the  sea. 
Those  portions  of  a  dike  which  are  subjected  to  a 
strain  are  strengthened  by  plankings  of  oak  and  great 
rocks  that  are  imported  from  abroad,  since  there  are  no 
rocks  in  Holland.  Sometimes  huge  mats  of  straw  and 
reeds  are  fastened  against  the  side  of  the  dike ;  then, 
again,  it  is  faced  with  concrete. 

A  common  grass  is  planted  and  encouraged  to  grow 
over  the  sand  dunes  and  the  dikes.  It  has  numerous 
roots  which  grow  in  a  tangle,  and  which,  by  knotting  in 
and  out  through  the  sand  where  they  grow,  effectually 
prevent  the  wind  from  blowing  it  away. 

Every  child  knows  that  he  must  not  pluck  this  grass ; 
and  even  the  little  toddlers  in  these  districts  wear  a  care- 
worn, apprehensive  look,  doubtless  caught  from  their 
elders.  The  grown  people  are  never  free  from  the  fear 
that,  in  some  great  storm,  the  sea  may  sweep  over  the 
dikes  and  destroy  their  villages,  and  drown  them  and 
their  dear  ones.  Whenever  the  alarm  bell  rings,  all 
flock  to  the  dikes,  and  men,  women,  and  children  labor 
to  repair  the  old  dike  or  to  build  a  new  one  just  within 
the  old.  If  the  first  dike  should  go,  they  would  then 
be  protected  by  the  second. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  135 

Their  great  fear  and  tireless  labor  at  such  moments  is 
justified  by  the  terrible  tales  of  the  past.  Look  at  the 
map  of  Holland,  and  you  will  see  in  the  southwest  sev- 
eral large  islands.  They  are  North  Beveland,  South 
Beveland,  and  Walcheren.  These  are  all  polders.  Some 
time  ago  communication  between  them  was  frequent,  and 
the  cities  and  towns  on  each  island  carried  on  an  active 
trade  with  those  on  the  neighboring  islands. 

One  night  there  came  a  terrible  westerly  storm,  and 
the  people  of  Walcheren,  looking  out  the  next  morning, 
found  to  their  terror  that  North  Beveland  had  vanished. 
The  dikes  had  fallen,  and  the  ocean  had  overwhelmed 
the  whole  populous  island.  They  knew  they  should 
never  see  the  faces  of  their  friends  and  neighbors  again. 
And  then  their  thoughts  returned  to  themselves  and 
their  own  danger.  Walcheren  was  also  below  the  level 
of  the  sea,  and  only  that  strong  brown  rim  kept  death 
from  them. 

Afterward  Walcheren  was  destroyed  and  also  South 
Beveland.  But  they  have  been  since  regained. 

And  so  the  battle  goes.  The  sea  gnaws  at  the  coast 
and  the  dikes,  and  the  Hollanders  build  their  dikes 
higher  and  stronger.  Sometimes  the  sea  swallows  a 
whole  province ;  then  the  people  make  another  some- 
where else.  But  it  is  said  that  the  whole  country  of 
Holland  is  gradually  sinking  below  the  level  of  the 
ocean.  The  sea  will  probably  win  in  the  end,  but  mean- 
while the  Dutch  hold  their  own  valiantly. 

Besides  being  low,  Holland  is  remarkably  flat.  The 
whole  country  is  so  level  that  from  a  certain  tower  in 
Utrecht,  a  city  in  central  Holland,  a  view  can  be  ob- 


136 


THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


tained  of  the  whole  kingdom.  Holland  is  four-fifths 
the  size  of  Scotland ;  but  imagine  any  one  being  able  to 
see  the  whole  of  hilly,  mountainous  Scotland  at  once  ! 

Looking  from  this  tower  of  Utrecht,  all  the  country 
is  spread  out  before  us  like  a  brightly  tinted  map.  Land 
is  gained  and  held  with  so  much  effort  here,  that  it  is 
considered  very  precious.  Therefore  every  inch  receives 


DUTCH    WINDMILL. 


the  utmost  care,  and  the  result  is  that  the  grass  is  an 
emerald  green  and  soft  as  plush.  Straight  canals  run 
like  silver  ribbons  across  the  country;  tall  willows, 
elms,  and  poplars  grow  at  intervals  along  the  canals  ; 
while  here  and  there  quaint  windmills  flap  their  huge 
sails  in  the  air.  Occasionally  a  small  village  of  white, 
blue,  and  green  cottages  with  lofty,  red-tiled  roofs  is 


MODERN    EUROPE.  137 

dotted  down,  with  its  church  spire  rising  among  the 
trees. 

The  windmills  are  the  characteristic  feature  of  Dutch 
scenery.  They  are  painted  bright  red,  blue,  and  green ; 
and  have  sails  either  white  and  new  or  gray  and  time- 
worn.  They  are  used  to  grind  corn,  to  pound  rocks 
into  sand,  and  to  saw  wood ;  but  their  chief  use  is  to 
pump  water  from  the  canals.  They  are  so  picturesque 
that  it  is  sad  to  think  that  their  days  are  numbered. 

Their  work  is  now  to  be  done  by  steam,  and  brick 
buildings  with  tall  chimneys  are  taking  the  place  of  the 
windmills.  In  fifty  years  there  will  probably  be  no  sign 
of  them  remaining,  but  meanwhile  they  flap  their  great 
arms  with  a  motion  so  giddy  that  it  gives  one  a  head- 
ache to  look  at  their  reeling  sails.  A  few  years  ago 
there  were  ninety-nine  hundred  large  windmills  in  Hol- 
land, costing  annually  ten  million  dollars  to  keep  them 
running. 

Now  I  should  like  to  have  you  visit  a  Dutch  town 
with  me.  As  we  enter  the  first  street,  the  people  we 
meet  stare  very  curiously  at  us.  In  some  places  the 
next  glance  will  be  at  our  feet,  to  see  that  our  shoes  are 
free  of  dust  and  dirt. 

Holland  is  the  cleanest  place  in  the  world.  If  we  had 
entered  this  town  early  in  the  morning,  we  should  have 
found  sturdy  maidservants  in  wooden  shoes  shaped  like 
boats,  shortened  petticoats,  and  with  all  varieties  of 
mops  and  pails,  cleaning  the  fronts  of  the  houses,  the 
window-panes,  the  steps,  and  even  the  sidewalks  and 
streets.  Their  zeal  is  commendable,  but  the  unwary 
traveler  is  likely  to  receive  an  unexpected  drenching. 


188  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  houses  are  so  brightly  painted  that  they  appear 
radiant  after  their  morning  bath.  Red,  blue,  green,  and 
yellow  are  favorite  colors,  and  the  sashes  of  the  windows 
are  a  dazzling  white. 

The  houses  are  frequently  six  stories  in  height.  The 
first  three  stories  will  be  alike ;  while  the  three  upper 
stories  will  each  be  narrower  than  the  one  below. 
Thus  the  house  rises  into  a  peak.  The  lofty  roof  is 
covered  with  velvety  red  tiles,  and  surmounted  with 
gilded  weathervanes  that  stand  out  sharply  against  the 
blue-gray  sky.  Windows  with  tiny  leaded  panes  are 
scattered  over  the  front  of  the  house,  which  is  further 
decorated  by  a  scroll  or  date  in  iron  work. 

The  polished  door  bears  a  huge  brass  knocker,  in 
which  the  visitor  may  see  his  face.  Another  curious 
feature  is  that  a  small  mirror  is  placed  at  the  side  of 
several  of  the  windows,  so  that  those  within  doors  may 
see  who  knocks  without  being  seen  themselves.  This 
must  be  very  convenient  in  case  the  unwelcome  peddler 
calls. 

Entering  the  house,  we  should  probably  first  be  re- 
lieved of  our  shoes  and  presented  with  felt  slippers,  suit- 
able for  walking  over  the  dainty  polished  floors.  We 
should  then  enter  a  large  room  having  red-tiled  floors, 
and  many  windows  shaded  with  curtains  of  blue  and 
white  chintz. 

There  is  a  great  fireplace  with  a  lofty  mantel.  The 
fireplace  is  surrounded  by  deep  blue  and  creamy  white 
Dutch  tiles,  picturing  early  Bible  stories.  When  little 
Hans  and  Gretchen  are  told  about  the  ark  and  Abra- 
ham and  Isaac,  their  parents  can  point  to  the  pictures  in 


MODERN    EUROPE.  139 

the  tiles,  as  they  are  lit  up  by  the  flickering  firelight. 
Brass  candlesticks  and  pipes  rest  upon  the  mantel. 
The  pipes  vary  in  color  from  a  cream  white  to  a  rich 
brown. 

The  Hollander  is  rarely  seen  without  his  pipe,  which 
keeps  him  warm  in  his  damp  climate.  One  of  his  great 
objects  in  life  seems  to  be  to  smoke  a  new  white  pipe 
until  it  turns  to  a  dark  brown.  The  more  brown  pipes, 
the  finer  the  smoker.  It  is  said  that  some  Dutchmen 
sleep  with  their  pipes  in  their  mouths,  and  light  them 
if  they  waken  in  the  night.  "  Smoke,"  the  Dutchmen 
say,  "  is  our  second  breath." 

Brass-bound  chests,  heavy  carved  chairs,  and  carved 
buffets  trimmed  with  brass  and  laden  with  old  blue 
and  white  china,  fine  porcelain,  and  solid  silver  tank- 
ards, constitute  the  rest  of  the  furniture.  Perhaps  a 
warming-pan  hangs  upon  the  wall,  serving  as  a  useful 
mirror. 

If  the  family  had  any  seafaring  members,  there  might 
be  Chinese  or  Japanese  curiosities  in  the  antique  cabi- 
nets. Once  the  Dutch  had  the  monopoly  of  the  trade 
in  the  East  Indian  seas,  and  quantities  of  beautiful  and 
curious  china  were  carried  to  Holland.  Now  it  is  taken 
to  other  countries  as  well. 

Half  the  village  streets  are  water  streets,  or  canals. 
The  houses  stand  close  beside  the  canals,  and  are  mir- 
rored in  the  calm,  stagnant  water.  Many  of  them  are 
built  upon  piles  driven  into  the  marshy  ground  near  the 
canals,  i  Sometimes  they  lean  forward  as  if  to  see  their 
reflections  better ;  again,  they  tilt  backward ;  and  then 
again,  to  one  side. 


140  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Boats  are  moored  in  the  canal,  and  occasionally  a 
barge,  either  drawn  by  a  horse  or  propelled  by  a  sail, 
comes  slowly  along.  They  carry  hay,  vegetables,  or 
fruit.  Sometimes  a  cow  is  tethered  by  her  horns  or 
tail  to  the  cabin. 

The  streets  cross  the  canals  by  drawbridges,  which 
are  of  course  raised  when  any  vessel  is  passing  by.  It 
is  very  provoking  to  a  hurrying  pedestrian  to  arrive  at 
the  bridge  just  in  time  to  see  it  swing  slowly  into  the 
air.  It  will  be  some  time  before  the  way  will  be  open 
again  ;  for  everything  in  Holland  moves  slowly,  like  the 
inhabitants  themselves. 

In  winter  the  canals  are  frozen,  and  hosts  of  rosy- 
faced  skaters  flash  to  and  fro  over  the  ice.  Every  one 
skates,  from  the  aged  grandfather  to  the  toddling  child. 
Marketwomen  carrying  baskets  upon  their  heads,  doc- 
tors, lawyers,  and  business  men  skate  to  the  scene  of 
their  daily  labor. 

Two  kinds  of  conveyances  are  seen  upon  the  ice. 
One  is  the  huge,  unwieldy  ice  boat,  and  the  other,  the 
push  chair. 

The  ice  boats  have  large  sails  and  are  propelled  by  the 
wind,  very  much  as  are  the  ice  boats  of  Canada.  Some 
of  them  are  used  for  pleasure  boats,  while  others  trans- 
port hay  and  vegetables. 

The  push  chairs  are  easy-chairs  mounted  upon  run- 
ners and  pushed  over  the  ice  by  men.  Every  wealthy 
lady  has  her  chair  piled  high  with  cushions  and  buffalo 
robes,  and  pushed  by  a  stalwart,  sleepy-faced  servant  in 
livery.  He  skates  of  course ;  and  the  chair  often  comes 
silently  up  behind  some  skater,  startling  him  by  its  sud- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  141 

den  approach.  The  feet  of  the  grand  lady  are  kept 
warm  by  a  foot  stove.  This  is  a  box  shaped  very  much 
like  a  hassock,  and  filled  with  hot  coals.  With  her  feet 
resting  upon  it,  she  is  as  warm  as  toast,  although  the 
thermometer  may  stand  at  zero. 

These  foot  stoves  are  used  throughout  Holland  in  the 
houses  and  churches.  It  is  part  of  a  sexton's  duties  to 
fill  each  stove,  and  to  distribute  them  through  the  pews. 
He  is  paid  a  penny  apiece.  He  regulates  the  stoves 
according  to  the  length  of  the  sermon. 

A  little  way  out  into  the  country,  summerhouses 
are  built  beside  the  canals  or  partly  overhanging  them. 
They  are  frail  little  wooden  affairs,  and  are  gaily  painted 
with  all  the  colors  of  the  rainbow.  In  winter  they  look 
quite  forlorn,  but  in  summer  they  are  the  center  of 
much  life  and  enjoyment.  Gay  flower  beds,  bright  with 
crocuses,  hyacinths,  and  tulips,  are  planted  in  the  heart- 
shaped  or  circular  beds.  The  ornamental  trees  and 
shrubs  are  clipped  in  various  fantastic  ways,  and  the 
trunks  of  the  trees  are  painted  white.  The  hedges  of 
box  are  cut  to  resemble  wolves  or  peacocks.  The  sur- 
face of  the  glassy  canal  is  covered  with 'floating  white 
and  yellow  pond  lilies  and  green  fan-like  leaves.  Ducks 
and  swans  swim  about  with  their  broods,  and  make  the 
air  noisy  with  their  cries. 

The  owner  and  his  family  often  run  down  to  spend 
the  day.  He  sits  and  smokes,  and  watches  the  passing 
barges.  His  wife,  with  her  feet  resting  even  in  mid- 
summer upon  her  foot  stove,  knits  incessantly  with  her 
eyes  fixed  upon  her  work.  The  girls  fish  in  the  canal 
from  the  windows  and  laugh  with  glee  every  time  the 


142  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

summerhouse  is  splashed  with  water  by  a  barge  sailing 
past.  There  are  flowers  and  cakes  upon  the  table,  a 
quaint  Dutch  or  Latin  motto  over  the  door,  and  every- 
thing in  the  surroundings  is  odd  and  peaceful.  The 
only  drawback  is  that  the  summerhouse  is  apt  to  be 
damp,  and  at  times  the  bouquet  of  odors  is  more  varied 
than  agreeable. 

One  would  think  that,  in  their  "  misty,  moisty  "  cli- 
mate, the  Dutch  would  be  afflicted  with  rheumatism. 
But  it  is  not  so.  They  are  a  most  healthy  people.  The 
rosy  cheeks  and  bright  eyes  of  the  women  and  children 
are  very  noticeable. 

In  the  cities  the  people  wear  the  usual  European  suit. 
The  cut  of  a  coat  or  a  dress  often  plainly  bears  the  stamp 
of  Paris.  To  find  rare  or  national  costumes,  we  must 
go  into  the  country. 

The  women  in  northern  Holland  wear  a  bright-colored 
jacket  studded  with  silver  buttons,  a  short  dark  petti- 
coat, and  wooden  shoes  that  would  make  the  smallest 
feet  look  large  and  clumsy.  Their  headdress  consists  of 
a  helmet  of  pure  gold,  fitting  closely  to  the  head  and 
concealing  the  hair.  There  are  gold  rosettes  at  the 
temples,  and  gold  curls,  like  corkscrews,  dangling  from 
them  beside  the  face. 

These  helmets  and  accessories  are  worth  hundreds  of 
dollars,  and  their  wearers  are  very  proud  of  them.  They 
often  carry  all  their  wealth  in  this  way. 

The  helmet  is  sometimes  covered  by  a  cap  of  price- 
less lace,  or  by  a  Parisian  bonnet  with  fluttering  ribbons 
and  plumes.  Occasionally  all  three  are  worn  at  once, 
and  then  the  effect  is  very  amusing. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  148 

The  men  wear  velvet  trousers  or  knickerbockers. 
They  have  four  great  silver  waist  buttons,  which  are 
oblong  and  look  more  like  pieces  of  a  broken  silver  belt 
than  like  buttons.  Their  knee  and  shoe  buckles  are 
also  of  silver.  The  Dutch  fisherman  shows  his  profes- 
sion by  wearing  a  fur  cap  in  all  weathers.  The  children 
are  dressed  like  the  grown  people,  except  that  the  girls 
do  not  wear  elaborate  headdresses. 

The  important  cities  of  Holland  are  all  situated  in  the 
western  third  of  the  country.  We  have  only  time  to 
hurry  through  them,  stopping  to  look  at  a  street  or 
building,  or  to  hear  some  famous  story  that  is  always  re- 
called when  the  city's  name  is  mentioned,  and  which 
therefore  has  become  as  much  a  part  of  the  city  as  its 
walls  and  paving  stones. 

Amsterdam,  the  great  business  center  of  Holland,  is 
situated  on  the  southern  side  of  the  branch  of  the  Zuy- 
der  Zee,  called  the  Y.  The  city  is  crescent-shaped  or 
bow-shaped,  the  line  of  the  whipcord  lying  along  the  Y. 
Canals  run  through  Amsterdam  in  curves  parallel  with 
the  bow  side  of  the  city.  Lesser  canals  intersect  them, 
making  the  whole  place  appear  like  a  very  orderly  and 
very  geometrical  spider's  web. 

The  land  upon  which  Amsterdam  is  built  is  low,  -and 
many  of  the  houses  are  built  on  piles.  Occasionally  the 
land  into  which  the  piles  have  been  driven  has  sunk,  and 
the  houses  are  tipped  at  various  angles, — forward,  back- 
ward, and  to  the  side.  Some  of  the  streets  are  so  narrow 
that  people  in  opposite  houses  can  shake  hands,  high 
above  the  small  canal  or  the  rough  cobble  pavement 
below. 


144  THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

A  stroll  through  Amsterdam  on  a  moonlight  evening 
is  delightful.  The  shapes  and  positions  of  the  curious 
houses,  their  perfect  reflections  in  the  canals,  the  clear 
chiming  of  bells  every  quarter  of  an  hour,  give  a  quaint, 
foreign  effect  to  the  place. 

The  bells  in  Amsterdam  are  all  in  tune  with  one  an- 
other. They  all  ring  the  quarter;  while  the  old  cathe* 
dral  chimes  play  a  different  tune  every  quarter,  making 
ninety-six  different  tunes  a  day. 

Amsterdam  is  one  of  the  first  places  in  the  world  for 
diamond  cutting.  That  is  not  a  particularly  interesting 
process,  however.  During  the  progress  of  the  cutting, 
one  does  not  see  the  bright  stone  or  the  telling  strokes 
upon  it.  The  diamond  is  hidden  in  a  lump  of  clay,  and 
all  the  work  is  done  through  that.  Queen  Victoria's 
finest  diamond,  the  famous  Kohinoor,  was  cut  in  Am- 
sterdam. 

Several  pleasant  little  trips  may  be  made  from  Am- 
sterdam. There  are  sails  out  upon  the  Zuyder  Zee  to 
the  various  fishing  stations  upon  the  islands,  and  there 
is  the  excursion  northward  to  Broek.  The  way  to  Broek 
passes  through  Zaandam,  and  here  the  traveler  is  always 
met  at  the  entrance  of  the  town  by  a  crowd  of  men 
hailing  him  with  the  words:  "Want  see  house  Peter 
the  Great?"  They  are  guides,  and  wish  to  earn  a  penny 
by  showing  the  way  to  the  one  object  of  general  interest 
in  their  monotonous  little  town. 

Many  years  ago  Peter  the  Great,  the  Czar  of  Russia, 
came  to  western  Europe  in  disguise.  His  great  object 
was  to  learn  the  arts  of  the  civilized  nations,  and  he 
came  to  Holland  to  study  shipbuilding.  He  spent  a 


MODERN    EUROPE,  145 

week  in  Zaandam,  during  which  time  he  occupied  a 
small  frame  hut  by  one  of  the  wharves.  Its  single  room 
contains  a  small  bed,  a  table,  and  a  few  rough  chairs. 
The  walls  are  covered  with  the  names  of  travelers  from 
all  parts  of  the  world.  I  suppose  they  hoped  to  unite 
their  names  to  that  of  the  illustrious  Peter.  The  house 
is  covered  with  a  larger  one  of  zinc,  in  order  to  protect 
it  from  the  weather. 

Broek  has  long  been  called  the  cleanest  town  in 
Holland.  It  is  spotless  from  pavement  to  chimney  top, 
but  not  more  so  than  many  other  towns  in  Holland. 
Here  it  is  said  that  the  floors  of  the  stables  are  polished 
every  day,  and  even  the  cows  have  their  tails  tied  up 
with  ribbons. 

Haarlem,  a  city  ten  miles  west  of  Amsterdam,  shines 
with  the  light  of  other  days.  It  has  a  fine,  brave 
history,  and  there  is  one  siege  which  makes  it  famous. 

Spain  was  a  strong  nation  in  the  sixteenth  century,  and 
Holland  was  a  dependency  of  her  king,  Philip  II.  He 
wished  to  force  the  Hollanders  to  obey  certain  unjust 
laws  which  he  had  imposed  upon  them.  After  suffer- 
ing for  some  time,  they  rose  in  revolt. 

The  Duke  of  Alva,  a  most  cruel  general,  was  sent  to 
conquer  them.  He  laid  siege  to  Haarlem.  It  was  sur- 
rounded by  a  poor,  weak  wall,  and  he  expected  to  capt- 
ure it  in  a  few  days.  But  whenever  the  Spaniards 
advanced  to  storm  the  city,  they  were  fiercely  met  and 
driven  back  by  the  besieged.  Women  and  children 
fought  beside  the  men  on  the  battlements.  When  they 
could  not  use  guns,  they  would  throw  down  stones  and 
pour  over  boiling  water.  By  night,  every  one  labored  to 


146  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

build  new  and  stronger  entrenchments,  just  within  the 
old  walls.  Month  after  month  passed;  and  when  the 
enemy  at  last  succeeded  in  carrying  the  walls  in  one 
place,  it  was  only  to  dash  against  an  unexpected  barrier 
within. 

A  year  and  a  half  dragged  by,  and  the  city  was  starv- 
ing. Hundreds  were  dying  in  the  streets.  Spears  of 
grass,  growing  between  the  paving  stones  and  houses, 
were  all  the  food  left.  In  this  terrible  strait,  the  Dutch 
resolved  to  form  themselves  into  a  square  with  the 
strongest  on  the  outside,  and  then,  at  a  given  signal,  to 
rush  into  the  ranks  of  the  enemy  and  try  to  fight  their 
way  through. 

The  Spaniards  heard  of  this ;  and,  knowing  there  was 
nothing  the  Dutch  would  not  do,  resolved  to  make 
terms.  They  promised  to  pardon  and  spare  the  lives  of 
the  citizens,  if  the  town  were  surrendered  to  them. 
The  Dutch  surrendered  in  all  good  faith ;  but  the 
wicked  Spaniards  failed  to  keep  their  word,  and  massa- 
cred the  whole  city,  sparing  neither  the  old  nor  the 
young,  the  women  nor  the  children.  This  is  one  of 
the  most  terrible  deeds  in  history. 

There  is  an  old  gateway  belonging  to  the  historic 
wall,  still  standing;  but  all  the  rest  of  the  famous  forti- 
fications have  been  pulled  down,  and  broad  roads  have 
been  made  in  their  places.  Haarlem  is  rapidly  becom- 
ing a  city  with  modern  improvements  after  the  French 
type. 

The  church  of  St.  Bavon's,  the  most  celebrated  build- 
ing in  Haarlem,  occupies  one  side  of  the  central  square. 
At  one  time  in  their  religious  history,  the  Dutch 


MODERN    EUROPE.  147 

thought  it  wrong  to  have  gloriously  colored  pictures 
and  rich  decorations  upon  their  church  walls.  So  they 
covered  the  interiors  of  all  their  churches  with  white- 
wash. This  most  unfortunate  step  destroyed  the  chief 
beauty  of  the  buildings. 

The  organ  of  St.  Bavon's  was,  at  one  time,  the  finest 
in  the  world.  It  has  five  thousand  pipes,  some  of  which 
are  good-sized  tunnels  through  which  a  man  might 
crawl,  while  others  are  the  size  of  a  lead  pencil.  There 
are  also  three  keyboards.  When  the  great  organ  is 
played,  it  is  like  the  deep  roar  of  the  sea  or  of  a  thun- 
der storm.  It  is  said  that  "  God  save  the  Queen  " 
played  upon  it  is  enough  to  loosen  all  one's  teeth. 

Both  Mozart  and  Handel  have  played  this  organ. 
Handel  entered  the  church  alone,  and  began  to  play. 
The  church  organist  heard  the  thunder  of  the  organ, 
and  paused  affrighted  in  the  church  porch.  He  thought 
at  first  it  might  be  Satan,  but  came  to  the  conclusion 
that  it  could  be  none  but  the  great  Handel.  "  But,  sir, 
no  two  hands  could  strike  all  the  notes  which  you  struck 
during  that  piece,"  declared  the  wondering  and  awe- 
struck organist.  "  No,"  Handel  admitted  ;  "  and  for 
that  reason  I  was  obliged  to  strike  some  with  my  nose." 

In  the  square  outside  the  church  stands  a  bronze 
statue  of  Laurenze  Janson,  the  coster,  or  sexton,  of  the 
cathedral.  The  Dutch  claim  that  he  invented  the  art 
of  printing,  and  that,  just  as  he  was  about  to  reveal 
his  secret  to  the  world,  his  blocks  were  stolen  by  his 
servant.  This  servant  was  the  brother  of  Gutenberg, 
the  man  whom  the  Germans  claim  discovered  the  art  of 
printing.  There  has  been  an  examination  into  the  two 


148  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

claims,  and  the  world  has  accepted  Gutenberg  as  the 
inventor ;  but  the  Dutch  still  remain  unconvinced. 

Sandy  soil  mixed  with  marsh  mould  is  best  fitted  for 
the  growing  of  bulbs.  The  soil  about  Haarlem  is  of 
this  character.  During  the  spring  and  summer,  bright 
yellow  and  purple  crocuses  and  gorgeous  red  and  white 
tulips  raise  their  heads,  and  dainty  pink  and  blue 
hyacinths  swing  their  bells  in  every  neat  little  garden 
plot. 

In  the  latter  half  of  the  sixteenth  century  there  was 
a  perfect  craze  over  tulips.  The  demand  for  rare  and 
curious  varieties  became  so  great  that  fabulous  prices 
were  paid  for  them.  Carriages  and  horses  and  even 
furnished  houses  and  grounds  were  given  in  exchange 
for  a  single  bulb. 

A  cook,  mistaking  a  tulip  for  an  onion,  was  thrown 
into  prison.  A  botanist,  who  was  visiting  Holland  at 
this  time,  began  to  cut  up  and  study  a  bulb  which  he 
had  found  in  a  friend's  conservatory.  When  his  host 
entered,  he  heaped  reproaches  upon  the  unfortunate 
man,  who  found  he  had  destroyed  what  was  worth  six- 
teen hundred  dollars. 

The  craze  grew  wilder  and  wilder.  Fortunes  were 
made  and  lost  in  a  day  by  speculating  in  tulips.  Even 
women  joined  in  the  insane  speculation.  At  length  the 
government  interfered  ;  and,  in  the  restored  tranquillity, 
the  people  awoke  to  the  knowledge  of  the  absurdity  of 
their  actions. 

Leaving  Haarlem,  we  move  south  to  Leyden.  On  our 
right  are  the  sand  dunes,  overgrown  with  straggling 
grass,  and,  in  some  places,  burrowed  with  rabbit  holes. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  149 

On  the  left  is  a  low,  flat,  green  meadow,  where  was 
once  the  Haarlem  Lake. 

This  lake  used  to  be  agitated  by  storms,  and  there 
was  often  danger  that  it  might  unite  with  the  ocean  in 
flooding  the  land.  Therefore,  with  a  view  of  securing 
greater  safety  to  the  country,  and  also  because  they 
coveted  the  ground  under  water,  the  Dutch  decided  that 
Haarlem  Lake  should  be  pumped  dry.  It  was  a  work 
of  twelve  years,  but  at  length  was  accomplished. 

Many  characteristic  pictures  catch  our  eyes  on  every 
side.  Here  is  a  low  cottage,  whose  thatched  roof  is  sur- 
mounted by  an  enormous  stork's  nest.  One  stork, 
perched  upon  the  edge  of  the  nest,  is  feeding  the  eager, 
wide-mouthed  little  ones. 

The  Dutch  and  other  nations  of  northern  Europe 
believe  that  the  stork  brings  good  luck.  The  great 
birds  consider  cart  wheels  excellent  foundations  for  their 
nests,  and  so,  on  many  of  the  cottage  roofs,  wheels  have 
been  placed  to  induce  them  to  settle  there. 

Before  us  now  is  a  low  moor,  with  a  most  exquisite 
purple  haze  resting  over  it.  A  lone  heron  is  flying 
slowly  across  with  his  long  legs  hanging  in  perfectly 
straight  lines. 

Leyden  is  situated  on  fifty  small  islands  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  Rhine.  There  the  Rhine  is  not  the.  wide 
beautiful  stream,  rushing  through  romantic  scenery, 
that  it  is  in  Germany.  Unlike  most  rivers,  it  contracts 
near  its  mouth,  and  straggles  slowly  and  monotonously 
along  through  fens  and  marshes. 

Leyden  is  a  sleepy  city  with  quiet,  grass-grown  streets. 
If,  three  hundred  years  ago,  it  was  like  what  it  is  to- 


150  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

day  it  must  have  been  a  perfect  haven  of  rest  to  the 
storm-tossed  Pilgrim  fathers.  It  was  here  that  they 
lived  under  the  kindly  pastoral  care  of  John  Robinson, 
and  it  was  this  safe  and  sheltered  home  that  they  finally 
quitted  for  the  woods  and  shores  of  New  England. 

Leyden  also  had  its  siege,  which  happily  did  not  end 
as  disastrously  as  did  that  of  Haarlem.  Soon  after  the 
fall  of  the  latter  city,  the  Spaniards  surrounded  Leyden. 
The  citizens  had  learned  what  to  expect  from  the  mercy 
of  their  enemies,  and  resolved  never  to  surrender. 

Carrier  pigeons  flew  over  the  heads  of  the  enemy,  bear- 
ing messages  back  and  forth  between  the  besieged  and 
the  Dutch  army,  commanded  by  the  Prince  of  Orange. 
After  weary  months,  word  was  brought  that  their  Prince 
had  cut  the  dikes  and  that  the  Dutch  fleet,  bringing 
provisions,  would  sail  up  to  the  gates  of  the  city. 

But  the  water  let  loose  upon  the  land  did  not  rise  as 
high  as  was  expected.  A  long  period  of  suspense  fol- 
lowed, which  was  hard  for  the  starving  people  in  the 
city.  Only  a  northwesterly  storm  could,  by  driving  the 
water  upon  the  land,  bring  help  to  Leyden.  Day  by 
day  men  and  women  climbed  the  dunes  to  look  for  signs 
of  rain.  The  weaker  ones  at  the  foot  called  upward, 
"  Do  you  see  a  cloud  ?  "  And  a  despairing,  "  Not  yet, 
not  yet,"  was  the  constant  answer. 

Once  a  crowd  of  citizens  sought  Van  der  Werf,  the 
burgomaster  and  defender  of  the  city.  They  attempted 
to  force  him  to  surrender.  He  answered :  "  I  have  sworn 
to  defend  this  city,  and  with  God's  help  I  mean  to  do 
it !  If  my  body  can  satisfy  your  hunger,  take  it,  and 
divide  it  among  you ;  but  expect  no  surrender  while  I 
am  alive." 


MODERN    EUROPE.  151 

At  last  the  prayers  of  the  people  of  Leyden  were 
answered,  and  a  northwesterly  storm  broke  upon  them. 
One  dark  night  the  gale  whipped  the  waters  of  the 
North  Sea  upon  the  land,  and  the  Spaniards  were  obliged 
to  flee  from  their  flooded  camp.  That  same  night,  the 
city  wall  fell  down.  If  the  besiegers  had  but  known  it, 
Leyden  was  at  their  mercy.  But  they  hastened  away 
in  utter  ignorance  of  its  defenceless  condition. 

The  dawn  brought  relief  boats  with  provisions ;  it  also 
brought  William  the  Silent,  their  beloved  prince,  who 
had  suffered  with  his  people  through  all  their  trials. 

Before  they  would  touch  a  morsel  of  food,  they  sought 
the  church  to  sing  a  thanksgiving  hymn.  Imagine  the 
cathedral  filled  with  gaunt,  hollow-eyed  men  and  women, 
their  clothes  hanging  on  their  skeleton  frames.  The 
hymn  rose  clear  and  sweet ;  higher  and  higher  it  soared ; 
then,  suddenly  it  changed  to  sobbing.  No  one  there 
could  sing  another  note. 

As  a  reward  for  their  brave  defense,  the  Prince  of- 
fered to  release  them  forever  from  taxes.  They  answered 
that  they  should  prefer  to  have  a  university.  And  that 
was  how  Leyden  University  came  to  be  established. 

The  Hague  is  a  most  charming  little  capital.  It  is 
very  much  like  a  French  city  in  the  prettiness  and 
brightness  of  its  streets,  and  in  the  gaiety  of  its  people. 
This  is  the  social  center  of  Holland,  as  Amsterdam  is 
the  commercial  center. 

Perhaps  the  most  attractive  feature  in  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Hague  is  the  Bosch.  This  is  a  magnificent 
forest  of  oaks  several  miles  square,  with  a  palace  in  the 
center  which  is  sometimes  used  as  a  royal  residence.  The 


152  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

forest  is  hundreds  of  years  old,  and  is  treated  as  rever- 
ently as  if  it  were  one  of  the  sacred  groves  of  the 
Druids  or  of  the  ancient  Greeks. 

The  Greeks  believed  that  a  nymph  inhabited  every 
tree,  and  that  the  breaking  of  a  bough  or  twig  inflicted 
an  injury  upon  her.  This  forest  is  just  as  carefully 
cherished.  Children  never  break  its  branches;  axes  are 
never  heard  within  its  limits  ;  foreign  armies,  ruthlessly 
destroying  cities  and  slaughtering  men,  have  never  in- 
jured the  sacred  wood.  Even  the  Duke  of  Alva  spared 
it. 

So  year  by  year  the  oaks  grow  taller  and  grander; 
their  shadows  stretch  farther  and  farther  over  the  vel- 
vety lawn ;  their  boughs  are  mirrored  peacefully  in  the 
unruffled  waters  of  the  tiny  lakes. 

There  is  a  museum  at  the  Hague,  rich  in  Japanese 
collections.  Here  may  be  seen  articles  of  dress  and 
jewelry,  armor,  and  weapons  both  of  war  and  of  peace. 
The  weapons  of  peace  are  doctor's  instruments.  There 
is,  besides,  a  Japanese  village,  with  dolls  to  represent 
the  people  engaged  in  their  daily  tasks. 

A  most  perfectly  furnished  doll's  house  illustrates 
the  way  in  which  the  Dutch  live.  It  is  diminutive,  but 
so  perfect  that  it  would  set  the  hearts  of  all  little  girls 
in  the  world  to  beating.  Dutch  dolls,  representing  the 
ladies  and  gentlemen,  occupy  the  drawing-room  chairs 
and  sofas,  while  a  Dutch  housemaid,  as  natural  as  life, 
stands  by  the  kitchen  stove. 

The  emblem  on  the  coat  of  arms  of  the  capital  is  a 
stork.  There  are  several  of  these  great  birds  kept  at 
the  city's  expense.  They  are  boarded  in  the  large 


MODERN    EUROPE.  158 

market;  and,  though  chained  by  the  leg,  are  allowed 
to  walk  about  and  select  their  food.  They  are  admired 
and  petted  by  everybody ;  but  there  is  a  dull,  sunken 
look  to  their  eyes,  showing  that,  notwithstanding  the 
honors,  they  miss  their  freedom. 

Rotterdam,  southeast  of  the  Hague,  is  the  second 
commercial  city  of  Holland  and  the  rival  of  Amster- 
dam. The  visitor  to  the  city  must  not  fail  to  stroll 
down  to  the  Boompjes  Pier,  a  fine  quay  planted  with 
noble  elms.  On  one  side  of  the  pier  is  drawn  up  along 
line  of  brightly  painted  river  steamers,  which  traverse 
the  Moselle  and  the  Rhine ;  on  the  other  side,  lie  the 
great  Indiamen  and  other  ocean  ships  and  steamers  that 
ply  between  this  almost  submarine  country  and  its  for- 
eign possessions.  Borneo,  Java,  and  Sumatra, — these 
are  the  names  painted  upon  the  sterns,  carrying  sugges- 
tions of  tropical  wealth  in  fruits  and  spices.  Eighty 
vessels  run  from  Rotterdam  to  India  in  the  course  of  a 
year.  The  city  also  exports  timber,  which  is  brought 
upon  rafts  down  the  Rhine  and  the  Moselle  from  the 
forests  of  Bavaria  and  southern  Germany. 

Rotterdam  has  not  the  culture  of  Amsterdam,  it  has 
not  its  museums  and  art  galleries ;  but  it  has  a  great 
future  before  it,  and  it  will  eventually  surpass  Amster- 
dam. For  Dutchmen,  the  citizens  are  wonderfully  en- 
terprising and  daring  financially.  "  At  Rotterdam 
fortunes  are  made ;  at  Amsterdam  they  are  consoli- 
dated ;  at  the  Hague  they  are  spent." 

There  is  a  general  impression  that  the  Hollanders  are 
a  heavy,  dull,  uninteresting  set  of  people.  Nothing  is 
more,  untrue.  Their  minds  are  accurate  and  sensible. 


154  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

They  have  also  a  certain  self-respect  that  is  quite 
fine. 

They  are  unpretentious  in  their  manner  of  living,  no 
matter  how  wealthy  they  may  be.  Through  economy, 
even  the  poor  in  Holland  are  rich,  and  put  guilder  after 
guilder  into  the  old  stocking  that  serves  as  their  bank. 
Here  there  are  no  desperately  poor  people,  as  there  are 
in  nearly  every  other  country  of  Europe. 

The  Dutch  also  have  a  curious  air  of  being  sufficient 
unto  themselves.  The  salesmen  show  their  goods  indif- 
ferently. They  will  accommodate  you,  but  there  is 
really  no  need  of  their  urging  you  to  buy.  The  inn- 
keepers are  equally  cool ;  at  times  they  have  even  been 
known  to  refuse  to  receive  tourists  because  "  they  were 
strangers." 

It  would  be  interesting  to  see  much  more  of  Holland. 
Delightful  hours  might  be  spent  in  Delft,  where  the 
Dutch  blue  and  white  ware  is  made,  in  Gonda,  where 
cheeses  are  made  and  weighed,  and  in  Friesland,  where 
quaint  customs  and  costumes  prevail ;  but  we  must  now 
leave  Holland  and  enter  Belgium. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THE  LAND  OF  THE  WOODEN  SHOE. 

Belgium,  though  one  of  the  smallest  countries  of 
Europe,  is  the  most  thickly  settled.  The  land  is  fertile, 
and  crops  are  raised  sufficient  to  support  all  the 
people  of  the  country.  Very  few  nations  of  modern 


MODERN    EUROPE.  155 

times  are,  like  Belgium,  able  to  supply  bread  enough  to 
feed  all  their  people ;  most  nations  have  to  import  some 
of  it  from  abroad.  But  little  Belgium,  like  ancient 
Egypt,  is,  in  this  respect,  independent  of  the  whole 
world. 

The  land  consists  of  three  regions,  —  the  eastern, 
western,  and  central.  The  eastern  region  contains  the 
few  low  ranges  of  hills  that  enter  Belgium  from  France. 
These  rolling  hills  are  clothed  with  thick  forests.  The 
rest  of  the  region  is  made  up  of  marshes  and  rough 
pastures.  Here  coal  is  found  in  abundance. 

Toward  the  center  of  Belgium  the  forests  give  place 
to  farms,  which  yield  rich  crops  of  wheat,  corn,  oats, 
and  rye.  Each  farm  is  very  small,  often  only  as  large 
as  one  of  our  New  England  pastures ;  but  every  foot  is 
made  to  produce  the  utmost  possible.  Rye  is  the  prin- 
cipal food  of  the  common  people.  The  Belgian  farmers 
are  not  ready  to  accept  improved  methods  of  farming, 
but  cling  tenaciously  to  old-fashioned  tools  and  old- 
fashioned  ways. 

The  west  and  northwest  region  might  be  called  the 
garden  of  Belgium.  The  country  is  here  as  flat  as  Hol- 
land ;  and  is  protected  from  the  rivers  by  dikes,  and 
from  the  sea  by  long  lines  of  sand  hills,  or  dunes,  on 
which  slender  pines  wave  their  branches  in  the  keen 
ocean  breezes. 

The  land  enclosed  by  the  dikes  and  the  dunes  is  re- 
markably green  and  fertile.  This  is  partly  owing  to 
the  many  silvery  canals  that  cross  it  in  all  directions. 
The  crops  raised  are  unusually  large.  This  whole  tract 
is  the  admiration  of  foreigners  and  the  pride  of  the  Bel- 


156  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

gians.  Bruges,  Ghent,  and  Antwerp,  three  towns  that 
we  shall  visit  shortly,  are  all  situated  in  this  green  belt 
of  Belgium. 

The  route  of  the  English  tourist  through  Belgium  is 
apt  to  be  this :  he  lands  at  Ostend,  visits  Bruges, 
Ghent,  and  Antwerp,  and  then  turns  southward  to 
spend  the  remainder  of  his  time  in  Brussels,  the  modern 
capital.  This  plan  of  seeing  Belgium  is  a  good  one,  as 
it  takes  us  through  the  most  famous  cities.  So  if  you 
have  no  objection,  little  fellow  traveler,  we  will  fol- 
low it. 

Ostend  is  a  noted  resort.  Every  summer  Russians, 
Germans,  French,  and  English  come  here  to  spend  the 
months  of  July  and  August.  The  most  d'elightful 
promenade  is  along  the  sea  wall,  an  immense  structure 
of  brick  and  stone.  The  dance  hall  is  situated  close  by 
the  wall.  There,  every  evening,  crowds  of  people 
gather  and  dance  in  a  heated  atmosphere  to  the  sound 
of  the  flute  and  violin. 

The  wiser  folks  stay  outside  in  the  fresh  breeze  from 
the  sea,  and  listen  to  the  grand  roar  of  the  ocean.  The 
view  is  wide  and  beautiful.  Before  us  stretch  the  toss- 
ing white-capped  waves  of  the  Strait  of  Dover ;  over 
them  bends  the  dark  blue  sky,  set  here  and  there 
with  a  glittering  star.  Two  mighty  breakwaters  reach 
ghostly  fingers  out  from  the  land ;  while  at  the  quaint 
little  pier,  an  English  steamer  is  landing  a  number  of 
seasick,  disheartened  tourists.  The  merciless  English 
Channel  has  been  unusually  rough  to-night.  Below  the 
wall  on  which  we  stand  is  a  stretch  of  sand ;  and,  in  a 
dark  huddle  at  one  end  of  the  beach,  are  the  bathing 


MODERN    EUROPE.  157 

hpuses,  or,  as  they  are  called  abroad,  the  bathing 
machines. 

By  eleven  o'clock  the  next  morning  the  shore  is  at 
its  liveliest.  Every  one  in  Ostend  seems  to  be  on  the 
beach.  If  he  is  not  bathing  himself,  he  is  watching 
the  bathers  with  great  interest. 

Men  and  women  in  the  queerest  toilets  swim,  float, 
dive,  or  wade  in  the  little  bay.  One  and  all  forget 
their  years,  their  dignity,  their  titles  perhaps,  and  be- 
come children  again.  Very  noisy  children  they  are  too  ! 
The  shrieks  of  the  ladies,  as  a  great  roller  takes  them  off 
their  feet  and  lands  them  far  up  the  beach,  would  be 
alarming  and  terrifying  if  they  were  not  so  constantly 
repeated.  It  is  the  story  of  the  farmer's  boy  and  the 
wolf  over  again.  As  the  alarms  are  all  false,  the  cries 
cease  to  be  heartrending,  and  merely  deafen  the  ears 
with  their  noise. 

The  children  alone,  their  faces  bronzed  notwith- 
standing their  protecting  straw  hats,  are  indifferent  to 
the  bathing  of  their  relatives  and  friends.  Like  the 
warlike  little  Germans  and  Frenchmen  that  they  are, 
they  build  castles  and  forts  in  the  sand.  Each  group  of 
children  is  guarded  by  several  nurses  in  white  caps  and 
aprons. 

The  oysters  of  Ostend  are  famous  throughout  Europe, 
and  form  no  small  attraction  to  the  place.  They  are 
small  and  have  a  most  delicious  flavor.  Colonies  of 
them  were  originally  brought  from  England,  and  estab- 
lished on  this  coast. 

Ostend  forms  one  of  a  line  of  fortresses  by  which  the 
border  of  Belgium  is  defended  from  France.  When 


158  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

every  nation  in  Europe  is  armed  to  the  teeth,  and  when 
Germany  has  her  daily  drills,  Belgium  cannot  leave  her- 
self entirely  undefended. 

You  might  suppose  that  such  a  little  country  as  Bel- 
gium would  be  gobbled  up  at  any  moment  by  the. ambi- 
tious nations,  greedy  for  more  territory,  which  means  to 
them  more  power.  But  no  !  Belgium's  size  is  her  best 
safeguard,  as  the  shrewd  little  nation  is  well  aware. 
She  is  too  small  to  be  divided  among  four  or  five  coun- 
tries ;  and  she  knows  that  the  jealousy  existing  between 
all  the  nations  will  prevent  any  one  of  them  from  being 
allowed  to  seize  her.  She  is  so  safe  that  her  people 
enjoy  much  more  freedom  than  do  the  French  or  Ger- 
mans, so  constantly  drawn  up  in  line  of  battle. 

Bruges  and  Ghent  can  be  reached  from  Ostend  by 
canals.  The  land  intervening  is  very  much  like  Holland. 
There  are  the  flat  green  meadows,  cut  into  huge,  wedge- 
shaped  bits  of  green  by  the  many  canals.  Lines  of  pop- 
lars and  willows  border  the  canals,  and  red  and  yellow 
windmills  flap  their  dark  sails  upon  the  horizon  in  a  way 
that  seems  strangely  familiar.  We  notice  that  the  thatch 
on  these  nearer  windmills  is  smooth  and  fine  as  fur. 

Yes,  the  landscape  is  Dutch;  and  so  are  many  of  the 
people  that  we  meet,  so  far  as  we  can  judge  by  dress 
and  conversation.  Their  words  have  a  harshness  of 
sound,  which  is  noticed  in  no  language  besides  the  Dutch 
and  the  Russian. 

Bruges  and  Ghent,  in  the  thirteenth  and  fourteenth 
centuries,  belonged  to  the  Count  of  Flanders.  Ghent 
was  the  capital,  but  Bruges  was  the  chief  commercial 
city,  not  only  of  Flanders  but  of  the  world. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  159 

Six  hundred  years  ago  the  tradesmen  had  no  rights 
as  citizens.  They  were  at  the  mercy  of  their  lord  or 
duke,  and  all  the  wealth  that  they  gained  through  their 
own  exertions  they  held  merely  at  his  good  pleasure. 
He  could  demand  either  the  whole  or  a  large  part  of  it, 
whenever  he  wished. 

As  the  tradesmen  grew  richer,  they  felt  their  power. 
They  determined  to  secure  legal  rights  for  themselves, 
and  thus  protect  the  trade  of  their  cities.  In  Germany, 
Italy,  and  Flanders  leagues  of  cities  were  formed ;  and, 
after  sharp  struggles  with  the  lords,  the  cities  gained 
charters. 

Ghent  and  Bruges  took  the  lead  among  the  Flemish 
cities.  At  one  time  Ghent  alone  stood  opposed  to  the 
Count  of  Flanders.  Her  people  were  starving ;  and  at 
last  five  thousand  men  of  Ghent  set  off  against  the 
Count's  army,  that  was  feasting  in  Bruges.  There  were 
forty  thousand  against  them,  but  the  courage  of  despair 
turned  these  starving,  tottering  men  into  an  army  of 
heroes.  They  won  the  day,  and  entered  Bruges  with 
their  gallant  leader,  Philip  van  Artevelde,  at  their  head. 
To  celebrate  their  victory,  they  carried- in  triumph  from 
Bruges  to  Ghent  a  gilt  dragon,  which  they  set  up  on 
their  belfry  tower. 

From  that  day  the  cities  of  Belgium  were  compara- 
tively free,  and  unusual  prosperity  blessed  them. 

Bruges,  though  now  an  inland  city,  was  at  that  time 
on  the  sea.  One  hundred  and  fifty  vessels  rode  at 
anchor  in  her  harbors.  Merchants  from  Asia  Minor 
and  northern  Italy  came  bringing  the  silks  and  pearls 
of  India  and  the  tapestries  of  Arabia,  in  exchange  for 
her  linen  and  woolen  goods. 


160  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

The  citizens  of  Bruges  were  the  best  spinners  and 
weavers  in  the  world.  It  always  pays  to  be  the  best  or 
the  first  in  any  industry.  They  showed  that  it  paid  by 
wearing  clothes  of  velvet  and  fine  cloth  trimmed  with 
dark  fur.  Over  their  broad  chests  gleamed  many  a 
chain  of  gold. 

Some  of  these  wealthy  tradesmen,  or  burghers,  whose 
quaint  old  warehouses  were  stuffed  with  oriental  goods, 
were,  moreover,  knights  of  the  Golden  Fleece.  You 
would  scarcely  believe  it,  but  this  society  was  established 
by  a  Duke  of  Flanders.  His  name  was  Philip  the  Good  ; 
and  he  honored  industry,  and  especially  the  industry  of 
weaving  wool,  when  he  gave  the  name  of  Golden  Fleece 
to  his  order.  Kings  were  proud  to  belong  to  the  same 
order  as  the  burghers  of  Bruges, 

Those  golden  days  are  fled.  The  broad  paved  streets 
of  Bruges  are  silent  now.  Grass  grows  thickly  between 
the  paving  stones.  Empty  are  the  old  warehouses,  and 
so  are  many  of  the  dwelling  houses  with  their  high  roofs, 
dormer  windows,  ornamental  iron  balconies,  and  scrolled 
and  dated  gables.  In  the  shadow  of  the  old  mansions 
sit  pretty  maidens,  whose  nimble  fingers  make  the  bob- 
bins fly  as  they  weave  the  fine  Valenciennes  lace. 

The  population  of  Bruges  in  the  fifteenth  century  was 
two  hundred  thousand ;  it  is  now  less  than  fifty  thou- 
sand. The  life  and  industry  of  the  city  have  visibly 
shrunk. 

The  most  famous  object  in  the  town  is  the  old  belfry, 
or  watchtower.  It  stands  in  the  market  place,  where 
old  women  with  dark  brown  faces  sit  at  its  foot  selling 
fish.  There  is  a  wide  view  of  the  surrounding  country 


MODERN    EUROPE.  161 

from  its  top.  In  time  of  danger  the  bells  in  the  tower 
were  rung  to  give  the  alarm.  How  often  those  solemn 
bells  pealed  forth  in  the  days  of  the  old  city  league ! 

"The  Belgians  are  as  fond  of  chimes  as  the  Dutch 
are  of  stagnant  water."  So  the  belfry  of  Bruges  is 
provided  with  a  set  of  forty-eight  bells,  which  weigh 
all  the  way  from  two  pounds  to  eleven  thousand. 
The  tones  vary  from  the  highest,  sweetest  little  treble 
to  the  deepest,  most  sonorous  bass.  Every  fifteen 
minutes  the  chimes  ring ;  and  on  the  hour  they  play 
a  tune.  They  are  said  to  be  the  finest  chimes  in 
Europe. 

One  seems  to  walk  the  streets  to  music,  so  often  do 
the  bells  fling  their  sweet  sounds  down  upon  the  un- 
heeding city  below. 

Next  to  chimes,  which  in  some  cities  peal  every  seven 
and  a  half  minutes,  the  most  frequent  sound  is  that  of 
wooden  shoes.  These  are  usually  too  large  and  too 
loose  for  the  feet,  which  they  scarcely  can  be  said  to 
adorn.  The  consequence  is  two  clicks  as  they  are  set 
down,  —  the  click  of  the  toe,  and  the  clank  of  the  heel. 
When  a  crowd  of  people  are  together,  the  sound  is 
astonishingly  loud. 

Ghent,  like  Bruges,  has  seen  its  best  days.  It  has  the 
same  silent  canals,  on  which  float  many  chunky  canal 
boats.  It  has  fully  two  hundred  and  seventy  bridges, 
crossing  these  canals  and  connecting  the  wide,  quiet 
streets.  Ghent  has  lost  less  of  its  population  than 
Bruges,  and  is  consequently  a  little  more  lively  and 
thrifty.  One  marked  difference  between  the  two  towns 
is  that  grass  does  not  grow  in  the  streets  of  Ghent. 


162  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Here  is  also  a  belfry ;  and,  gleaming  from  its  top,  is 
the  gilt  dragon  brought  from  Bruges  so  long  ago.  In 
this  belfry  hangs  the  old  bell,  Roland,  that  was  rung  by 
the  citizens  on  the  approach  of  an  enemy  or  after  a  vic- 
tory. Our  independence  bell  was  rung  but  once,  and  is 
honored  highly.  This  bell  has  been  tolled  and  pealed 
through  all  the  hundreds  of  years  that  mark  the  history 
of  Ghent. 

Roland  has  become  almost  a  person  to  the  people  of 
Belgium.  He  is  a  patriot,  a  hero,  a  leader  in  all  rebel- 
lion against  unrighteous  authority. 

Charles  V.  came  so  to  hate  this  bell,  as  a  mouthpiece 
of  the  rebels,  that  when  he  had  conquered  Ghent  in  a 
struggle  many  years  after  those  of  which  I  have  just 
been  speaking,  he  ordered  that  Roland  should  be  con- 
demned and  sentenced  to  a  speedy  removal  from  the 
belfry. 

It  is  this  glorious  old  bell  that  Longfellow  speaks  of 
in  his  poem,  "  The  Belfry  of  Bruges  :  " 

"  Till  the  bell  of  Ghent  responded  o'er  lagoon  and  dike  of  sand, 
I  am  Roland  !     I  am  Roland !  there  is  victory  in  the  land  !  " 

St.  Bavon's  is  the  chief  church  of  Ghent.  It  is  a 
vast  building  with  the  interior  beautifully  finished  in 
black  and  white  marble.  There  are  many  finely  carved 
tombs  of  bishops  and  nobles  throughout  the  church; 
marble  statues  adorn  the  many  niches  of  the  walls ;  the 
elegant  pulpit  is  of  carved  wood. 

Before  the  altar  stand  four  tall  copper  candlesticks 
that  once  belonged  to  Charles  I.  They  have  the  English 
coat  of  arms  upon  them,  and  formerly  stood  either  in 


MODERN    EUROPE.  163 

Whitehall  Chapel  or  St.  Paul's  Church.  The  story 
goes  that  they  were  sold  in  the  time  of  Cromwell. 

The  choir  is  beautified  by  the  arms  of  the  knights  of 
the  Golden  Fleece,  which  form  a  bright  frieze  high  up 
on  the  marble  wall.  There  are  twenty-four  chapels 
leading  from  the  main  cathedral.  Nearly  all  of  them 
contain  remarkably  fine  pictures,  which  we  may  see  by 
passing  through  the  brass  gates  that  separate  each 
chapel  from  the  main  church. 

"  The  Adoration  of  tfce  Spotless  Lamb,"  by  the  broth- 
ers Van  Eyck,  is  considered  the  finest  picture  of  the 
early  Belgian  painters.  There  are  three  hundred  heads 
in  the  painting,  each  of  which  is  finished  with  most  con- 
scientious care.  The  Madonna  has  a  beautiful  coun- 
tenance. 

Rubens's  "  St.  Bavon  Renouncing  his  Profession  of  a 
Soldier  "  is  in  another  chapel.  St.  Bavon,  after  whom 
the  cathedral  is  named,  gave  up  a  soldier's  life  to  be- 
come a  monk.  This  painting  is  considered  one  of 
Rubens's  greatest  works. 

Antwerp  in  the  sixteenth  century  was  a  more  im- 
portant commercial  city  than  London.  It  was  even 
more ;  it  was  the  richest  city  in  all  Europe.  Like 
Ghent  and  Bruges,  its  power  afterwards  declined,  but 
within  this  century  prosperity  has  returned  to  it.  It  is 
still  the  first  port  in  Belgium. 

Antwerp  may  thank  Napoleon  the  First  for  restored 
wealth  and  prosperity.  He  deepened  the  river  Scheldt, 
so  that  vessels  of  larger  tonnage  could  approach  the 
town.  By  enlarging  the  harbor,  he  made  it  one  of  the 
best  in  Europe.  His  object  was  to  establish  here  a 


164  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

military  depot,  whence  he  could  menace  the  power  of 
England.  He  hoped  that  Antwerp  might  become  a  for- 
midable commercial  rival  to  London.  But  the  battle 
of  Waterloo  checkmated  his  plans. 

On  entering  the  harbor,  the  most  noticeable  landmark 
is  the  cathedral  spire.  It  impresses  the  traveler  as  a 
most  beautiful  object ;  and  all  the  while  he  remains  in 
Antwerp  this  spire  casts  over  him  the  spell  of  its  grace- 
ful and  delicate  beauty. 

Antwerp  cathedral  is  five  huftdred  feet  long  and  two 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide.  The  spire  is  four  hundred 
and  six  feet  in  height,  and  like  the  cathedral  is  of  stone 
and  iron.  The  spire  begins  with  most  solid  and  rich 
Gothic  architecture ;  but,  as  it  rises,  it  grows  lighter  and 
more  airy,  and  the  carving  becomes  marvelously  fine 
and  delicate.  Charles  the  Fifth,  emperor  of  Germany, 
said  that  the  spire  ought  to  be  kept  under  a  glass  case. 
Three  hundred  years  later,  Napoleon  First,  emperor  of 
France,  compared  it  to  Mechlin  lace. 

It  was  Napoleon's  custom  on  conquering  a  city,  to 
send  off  all  its  most  famous  and  striking  works  of  art 
to  Paris,  to  adorn  his  capital.  If  he  had  been  able,  no 
doubt  he  would  have  transported  the  spire  of  the  Ant- 
werp cathedral  to  Paris,  and  set  it  up  in  the  gardens  of 
the  Tuileries.  As  he  could  not  do  so,  he  did  the  next 
best  thing.  He  carried  away  "  The  Raising  of  the 
Cross  "  and  "  The  Descent  from  the  Cross,"  two  famous 
pictures  by  Rubens,  which,  after  the  spire,  were  the 
chief  attractions  of  the  cathedral.  "  The  Descent  from 
the  Cross "  is  Rubens's  masterpiece.  Both  paintings 
have  recently  been  returned  to  their  first  home, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  165 

In  the  spire  is  a  chime  of  ninety-nine  bells.  The 
largest  bell  is  so  bulky  that  it  requires  sixteen  men  to 
ring  it.  Charles  V.  stood  godfather  to  it  when  the 
bells  were  first  hung  in  place. 

The  beauty  of  the  cathedral  is  a  little  marred  by  its 
poor,  not  to  say  squalid,  surroundings.  Second-rate 
shops  and  booths  cluster  at  its  base.  The  cathedral 
itself  is  falling  into  decay. 

Germany  is  poor,  Belgium  is  rich.  Yet  Germany  can 
give  vast  sums  of  money  to  repair  and  finish  Cologne 
cathedral,  while  Belgium  allows  this  beautiful  monu- 
ment of  her  national  faith  gradually  to  wear  away. 

If  you  should  go  to  the  museum  of  Antwerp,  I  fear 
you  would  be  more  interested  in  a  certain  painter  named 
Mr.  Charles  Felu  than  in  the  fine  pictures.  Mr.  Felu 
has  no  arms,  but  he  has  so  trained  his  toes  that  they  are 
able  to  serve  as  fingers.  Besides  holding  his  brush  with 
his  toes,  he  can  mix  his  colors,  and  unscrew  and  screw 
the  covers  to  those  trying  little  tubes  in  which  the  paint 
comes  packed.  He  is  a  very  skillful  copyist,  and  his 
paintings  bring  a  good  price  in  the  city. 

Rubens's  house  and  pretty  garden  may  be  seen  at 
Antwerp.  The  summerhouse,  where  he  was  fond  of 
working,  and  his  stone  bench  and  table,  remain  as  he 
left  them  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty  years  ago. 

Twenty-five  miles  south  of  Antwerp  is  Brussels,  the 
capital  of  Belgium.  Brussels  consists  of  two  towns,  an 
upper  and  a  lower. 

The  upper  town  is  the  newer.  It  contains  many 
pleasant  promenades  and  a  park,  which,  though  small, 
is  prettier  than  the  famous  park,  the  Bois  de  Boulogne 


166  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

in  Paris.  It  is  the  resemblance  of  this  section  of  the 
town  to  Paris  that  causes  people  to  give  to  Brussels  the 
name  of  Little  Paris. 

The  lower  town  is  more  interesting  to  the  student  of 
history.  There  are  many  quaint  old  houses  along  the 
narrow  streets.  The  only  building  of  note  is  the  Hotel 
de  Ville,  or  the  townhall.  The  spire,  a  lofty  one, 
is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  St.  Michael.  From  the 
square,  St.  Michael  appears  very  small,  but  he  is  really 
seventeen  feet  tall.  He  is  swung  to  and  fro  by  the 
wind,  and  serves  as  a  weathervane  to  the  city. 

In  the  square  before  the  H6tel  de  Ville,  two  leaders 
of  the  people  against  the  Spaniards  were  executed, — 
Count  Egmont  and  Admiral  Horn.  From  the  square 
may  be  seen  the  house  where  they  spent  their  last  night 
alive,  and  also  the  window  where  Alva  watched  their 
execution.  It  is  said  that  tears  poured  down  his  cheeks 
at  the  time.  Do  you  believe  it?  I  do  not.  A  man 
who  could  boast  that  he  had  executed  eighteen  thousand 
six  hundred  Netherlanders,  during  the  time  that  he  was 
governor,  would  scarcely  mourn  at  the  death  of  any  one. 

In  the  streets  of  Brussels  may  be  seen  the  quaint 
figures  of  the  working  people.  The  milk  seller  is  per- 
haps as  interesting  as  any.  She  wears  a  huge  white  cap 
and  large  gold  earrings,  and  walks  sedately  by  her  cart 
with  a  careful  eye  upon  the  two  rough,  good-natured 
dogs  who  draw  it.  The  cart  is  filled  with  straw,  in 
which  are  set  curiously  shaped  pitchers  of  brass,  con- 
taining the  milk.  Sometimes  she  carries  one  pitcher 
in  her  hand,  as  an  advertisement  of  what  her  cart  con- 
tains. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  167 

Belgium  has  been  the  spot  where,  for  hundreds  of 
years,  the  nations  of  Europe  have  fought  out  their 
quarrels.  This  has  been  hard  for  Belgium,  as  she  has 
never  waged  war  of  her  own  accord.  Whenever  she 
has  fought,  it  has  been  because  she  has  been  dragged 
into  the  conflict. 

About  twelve  miles  south  of  Brussels  is  one  of  the 
world's  great  battlefields,  —  the  plain  of  Waterloo. 
Here  it  was  that  the  English  and  Germans,  under  Well- 
ington and  Bliicher,  finally  defeated  the  French  under 
Napoleon  I.  The  field  includes  a  beautiful  stretch  of 
orchards,  villages,  and  meadows.  Everything  is  green 
and  rural,  and  it  seems  as  if  peace  had  always  smiled 
on  the  plain. 

In  one  place  rises  a  huge  mound  with  a  lion,  the  em- 
blem of  Belgium,  upon  the  summit.  In  obtaining  the 
earth  for  this  mound,  the  workmen  were  so  unfortunate 
as  to  alter  important  slopes  in  the  field.  When  Well- 
ington visited  it,  he  was  thoroughly  disgusted  with  the 
change.  Referring  to  the  cost  of  the  monument,  he 
said :  "  A  million  francs  to  spoil  the  field !  I  will 
never  visit  it  again." 


CHAPTER  IX. 

THROUGH   RHINELAND. 

The  word  Rhine  awakens  no  particular  emotions  in 
your  mind,  my  American  boy,  beyond  perhaps  a  slight 
feeling  of  interest.  But  it  arouses  most  intense  emo- 


168  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

tions  in  the  heart  of  the  German  boy.  These  emotions 
are  a  high  pride  and  an  enthusiastic  love. 

He  is  proud  of  the  Rhine,  first,  for  its  beautiful  natu- 
ral scenery,  and  secondly,  for  its  associations  with  the 
past. 

The  scenery  is  indeed  most  beautiful,  —  with  its 
beetling  crags,  rocky  hillsides,  shady  islands,  and  long 
stretches  of  sunny  vineyards  softening  and  brightening 
with  tender  green  the  dark  walls  of  the  river. 

The  Rhine  is  also  historic  ground.  To  write  the 
history  of  the  Rhine  would  be  to  write  the  history  of 
Europe.  Csesar  and  his  legions  have  thundered  by 
the  Rhine ;  Goths  and  Huns  have  fought  by  its  shore, 
with  each  other  and  with  the  more  civilized  nations  of 
their  times,  so  often  that  we  seem  to  fail  to  pierce  the 
darkness  of  the  Middle  Ages,  by  reason  of  the  clouds  of 
arrows  and  of  spears.  Everywhere  the  voice  of  war  is 
heard;  and  the  martial  sounds  are  echoed  down  the 
centuries,  from  the  contests  of  the  robber  chieftains  and 
the  tradesmen  to  the  terrible  wars  of  Napoleon  and  the 
Franco-Prussian  war. 

You  know  how  objects  receive  an  impress  from  the 
life  about  them.  Your  mother's  room  looks  unlike  any 
other  room  to  you.  It  contains  the  articles  that  she 
needs,  and  that  she  has  slowly  gathered  around  her  dur- 
ing many  years.  Some  old  houses  are  individualized  in 
this  way  by  the  lives  of  their  owners. 

Whenever  life  has  been  very  intense,  it  must  of  neces- 
sity leave  a  deep  imprint  upon  its  surroundings,  or  the 
stage  on  which  it  worked  out  its  emotions.  So  the 
Rhine  has  become  crowded  with  suggestions  of  the  past. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  169 

The  ruined  castles  and  towers  are  so  many  cast-off  shells, 
which  the  rough  tides  of  time  have  left  high  and  dry 
upon  the  Rhin  eland  shore,  to  speak  to  us  to-day  of  the 
stormy  past. 

.As  in  putting  a  seashell  to  your  ear  you  hear  the  dis- 
tant murmur  of  the  sea,  so  walking  within  the  ruined 
walls  of  these  castles  you  hear,  in  the  silence  and  in  the 
low  moaning  of  the  wind  through  the  casements,  the 
echoes  of  the  past. 

All  the  course  of  the  blue  Rhine  is  embossed  with 
quaint  legends  and  fantastic  stories,  as  a  golden  girdle 
is  set  with  gems.  It  seems  as  if  the  well-known  tales 
of  every  nation  had  some  equivalent  here.  We  hear  of 
imprisoned  princesses,  and  princesses  turned  to  stone; 
of  fights  with  dragons  and  other  uncanny  foes  ;  and  of 
whirlpools  and  sirens.  Later,  mixed  with  these  heathen 
stories,  come  curious  miracles  of  the  early  Church. 
Hosts  of  songs  and  tiny  poems,  by  known  and  unknown 
poets,  cluster  round  the  river  and  sing  along  its  waves. 

You  can  easily  see  how  proud  the  Germans  might  be 
of  such  a  river,  renowned  for  its  beauty,  its  history,  and 
its  poetry.  But  their  love  is  aroused  a  little  differ- 
ently. 

Will  you  think  of  the  feeling  of  the  Egyptians  for 
the  Nile,  and  the  Romans  for  the  Tiber?  Each  nation 
owed  much  of  its  prosperity  to  its  river,  and  each  nation 
worshiped  it  as  a  kindly  god.  It  was,  "  O  Tiber,  Father 
Tiber,  to  whom  the  Romans  pray." 

The  Germans,  centuries  ago,  worshiped  the  Rhine ; 
and  some  of  this  strong,  reverent  emotion  has  come  down 
to  the  Christian  nation  of  to-day.  The  Rhine  is  still  to 


170  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

the  German  a  precious  river,  like  no  other  of  his  beauti- 
ful streams.  But  it  stands  to  him  now  more  as  a  na- 
tional monument,  in  short  as  the  embodiment  of  his 
nation,  in  its  strong  and  gracious  beauty,  its  grand  his- 
toric worth,  and  its  sweet  poetry. 

We  have  nothing  in  America  that  we  regard  in  this 
way,  unless  it  may  be  the  stars  and  stripes  of  our  own 
glorious  flag.  But  in  the  heart  of  every  true  German 
is  this  stanch,  deep  pride  and  love,  born  perhaps  of 
superstition,  for  "  Father  Rhine." 

Some  of  the  stories  that  we  shall  hear  of  special  places 
by  the  river  will  illustrate  this  devotion. 

In  southeastern  Switzerland  stands  the  lofty  moun- 
tain of  St.  Gothard.  Its  huge  bulk,  rising  sharply 
nine  thousand  feet  into  the  cold  air,  separates  the  val- 
ley of  the  Rhine  on  the  north  from  the  valley  of  the 
Rhone  on  the  south.  One  clear  stream  goes  to  the 
sunny  Mediterranean ;  the  other,  to  the  dull  blue  waters 
of  the  North  Sea. 

Amid  the  glaciers  on  the  northern  mountain  slope  is 
the  cold  white  cradle  of  the  Rhine.  Bright,  swift,  and 
joyous,  it  dashes  on  its  way,  carrying  along  in  its  young 
might  earth  and  stones  from  the  hillside.  It  is  a  dark 
brown  color  when  it  enters  Lake  Constance,  but  when 
it  leaves  the  lake  it  is  again  a  beautiful  rich  blue.  The 
dark  earth  has  been  left  in  the  lake. 

For  some  distance  now  the  Rhine  forms  the  boundary 
between  Germany  and  Switzerland.  There  are  many 
falls  in  its  course,  some  of  which  are  both  beautiful  and 
noted.  When  at  length  the  river  turns  northward  and 
enters  Germany,  it  flows  between  Alsace  and  Baden. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  171 

Strasburg,  the  capital  of  Alsace,  is  situated  a  few  miles 
from  the  Rhine  on  a  little  river  of  its  own.  But  as  this 
river  is  also  a  tributary  of  the  Rhine,  Strasburg,  with 
many  other  German  towns  similarly  situated,  may  be 
said  to  form  a  part  of  Rhineland. 

The  most  noted  object  in  Strasburg  is  the  cathedral. 
Compared  with  other  cathedrals,  it  is  chiefly  remarkable 
for  its  clock  and  its  spire. 

You  may  have  seen  a  cuckoo  clock.  When  the  hour 
strikes,  a  dear  little  bird  pops  out  from  within  the  case, 
flaps  its  wings,  and  sings  its  pretty  note.  Of  course 
there  is  much  complicated  machinery  within  the  clock, 
to  make  the  little  bird  come  out  just  at  the  right  time. 

The  Strasburg  clock  is  even  more  wonderful  than  the 
cuckoo  clock.  It  is  almost  like  a  small  theater,  there 
are  so  many  people  and  animals  that  have  their  little 
part  to  play  as  the  hours  of  the  day  go  by.  The  hours 
are  struck  by  angels,  and  at  midday  and  midnight  life- 
size  figures  of  Christ  and  his  twelve  disciples  come  from 
a  door  and  walk  about  on  a  platform.  Then  a  gilded 
cock  upon  the  upper  turret  of  the  clock  flaps  its  wings 
and  crows. 

The  spire  of  Strasburg  Cathedral  is  four  hundred  and 
sixty -eight  feet  in  height,  it  being  one  of  the  tallest 
spires  upon  the  continent  of  Europe.  At  the  time  of 
the  French  Revolution,  the  Republicans  were  destroying 
cathedrals,  churches,  and  public  buildings  of  all  kinds,  in 
order  to  show  their  hatred  for  everything  established  by 
government.  Strasburg  Cathedral  was  threatened  ;  but 
some  quick-witted  ecclesiastic  hung  upon  the  steeple  a 
metal  republican  cap  of  the  kind  the  insurgents  were 


172  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

wearing.  This  pleased  them,  and  they  spared  the  church. 
The  metal  cross  on  the  steeple  was  bent  during  the  siege 
of  Strasburg  in  the  late  Franco-Prussian  war. 

The  Germans  and  the  French  have  for  centuries  been 
struggling  over  the  possession  of  Alsace  and  Lorraine. 
The  French  cry :  "  Give  us  natural  frontiers.  Let  us 
have  the  Rhine  for  the  boundary  line  between  our  two 
nations.  It  was  so  in  Caesar's  time,  why  not  in  ours  ?  " 
But  the  Germans  answer:  "  Not  so.  Why  should  Caesar 
be  an 'authority  to-day?  The  Rhine  should  and  shall 
be  4  Germany's  river,  not  Germany's  frontier.' ' 

And  so,  during  the  centuries,  whenever  treaties  were 
signed  in  Europe,  closing  wars  in  which  Germany  and 
France  were  opposed  to  each  other,  Alsace  and  Lorraine 
were  handed  over  to  the  winning  nation.  They  were 
bandied  to  and  fro  in  a  most  bewildering  fashion.  France 
had  held  them  for  nearly  four  hundred  years  with  a  firm 
grip;  but  in  1870  the  Germans  invaded  France,  besieged 
Strasburg  and  other  frontier  towns,  and  recaptured  the 
two  long-coveted  provinces. 

These  stanzas  from  a  song  composed  by  a  German 
soldier,  which  was  to  be  sung  when  they  marched  in 
triumph  into  Strasburg,  may  show  you  the  spirit  of  the 
times :  — 

"  In  Alsace,  over  the  Rhine, 
There  lives  a  brother  of  mine ; 

It  grieves  my  soul  to  say 

He  hath  forgot  the  day 
We  were  one  land  and  line. 

"  Dear  brother,  torn  apart, 
Is't  true  that  changed  thou  art? 


MODERN    EUROPE.  173 

The  French  have  clasped  on  thee 
Their  fetters,  as  we  see  ; 
Have  they  Frenchified  thy  heart  ? 

"  Hark !  that's  the  Prussian  drum, 

And  it  tells  the  time  has  come ; 
We  have  made  one  Germany, 
One  '  Deutschland  '  firm  and  free ; 

And  our  civil  strifes  are  dumb. 

"  Thee  also,  fighting  sore, 
Ankle-deep  in  German  gore, 

We  have  won.     Ah,  brother  dear ! 

Thou  art  German  —  dost  thou  hear  ? 
They  shall  never  part  us  more." 

So  the  Germans  sing  ;  but  it  is  said  that  France  will 
never  be  content  till  she  has  wiped  out  the  stain  of  de- 
feat in  the  late  war,  and  recaptured  the  two  provinces. 

Some  seventy  miles  north  of  Strasburg  another  tribu- 
tary joins  the  Rhine.  This  is  the  Neckar,  by  following 
which  we  come  to  Heidelberg.  Perhaps  it  would  be 
safer  not  to  go  there  if  we  wish  to  see  what  further 
wonders  this  Rhine  voyage  will  unfold.  Travelers 
have  said  that  any  one  who  goes  to  Heidelberg  never 
wants  to  leave  it. 

The  town  is  certainly  charming.  The  houses  are  of  all 
degrees  of  the  picturesque,  from  the  low  cottages  with 
tiny  casements  and  heavily  barred  shutters  to  the  tall 
brick  mansions  with  pointed  roofs.  These  border  steep 
streets,  paved  with  rough  cobblestones  running  up  to 
the  castle  and  down  to  the  Neckar.  The  castle  crowns 
the  summit  of  the  hill,  on  the  slopes  and  at  the  foot  of 
which  the  town  is  built. 


174  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Heidelberg  Castle  is,  next  to  the  Alhambra  in  Spain, 
the  finest  ruin  in  Europe.  This  castle  is  what  gives  Hei- 
delberg its  abiding  charm.  It  holds  the  traveler  like  a 
magnet,  and  well  repays  the  study  of  weeks  and  months. 

Its  position  is  a  fine  one.  Hills  covered  with  waving 
trees  rise  above  it  at  the  back.  From  the  terrace  on  the 
front  one  may  see  the  valleys  of  the  Neckar  and  the 
Rhine,  and,  far  away  on  the  horizon  line,  the  blue  bil- 
lowy outlines  of  the  Alsatian  hills. 

The  castle  is  an  immense  pile,  somewhat  oblong  in 
shape.  It  consists  of  twelve  different  buildings  sur- 
rounding a  court  yard.  These  buildings,  which  are 
palaces,  towers,  and  strongholds,  have  been  erected 
from  time  to  time  in  the  course  of  the  centuries.  They 
illustrate  all  the  varying  styles  of  architecture  from  the 
thirteenth  to  the  seventeenth  century.  There  are  build- 
ings with  straight,  severe  lines,  and  there  are  others 
most  elaborately  ornamented  with  carvings,  and  with 
niches  holding  each  its  own  beautiful  statue. 

In  the  old  days  Heidelberg  Castle  was  both  a  palace, 
where  the  elector  palatine  lived,  and  also  a  fort.  It 
has  been  besieged  many  times,  and  has  twice  been  sur- 
rendered to  the  French. 

It  bears  many  interesting  marks  of  these  sieges. 
There  is  one  tower  called  the  Blown-up  Tower.  Half 
of  this  tower  fell  into  the  moat  during  one  siege. 
Lindens  grow  from  the  remaining  half,  and  make  a  de- 
lightful, shady  nook  of  the  place. 

On  one  side  of  the  castle  is  the  garden  which  one  of 
the  electors  palatine  had  made  for  his  English  bride, 
Elizabeth,  the  daughter  of  James  the  First.  There  seems 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


175 


to  be  a  tragic  air  still  hanging  about  the  English  garden, 
as  it  is  called.  The  story  of  this  English  woman  and 
her  husband  resembles  that  of  Macbeth  and  his  wife. 

Elizabeth  was  a  very  ambitious  woman.  When  the 
German  princes  offered  a  crown  to  her  husband,  he  hes- 
itated. Elizabeth  then  said,  "  If  you  do  not  desire  to 
be  king,  you  do  not  deserve  to  have  the  daughter  of  a 


HEIDELBERG     CASTLE 


king  for  your  wife."  This  stimulated  the  weak  man 
into  undertaking  more  than  he  could  possibly  carry 
through.  War  broke  out,  and  the  elector  palatine  lost 
not  only  his  new  kingdom  but  also  his  palatinate. 

There  are  many  old  stories  connected  with  the  castle. 
There  is  a  ghost  story  about  one  dusty  old  turret  cham- 
ber that  I  dare  not  tell  you,  it  is  so  frightful. 


176  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

One  may  wander  for  days  through  the  grounds, 
climbing  moss-grown  stairs  and  discovering  old  foun- 
tains, shady  grottoes,  and  hidden  statues  of  marble  some- 
what darkened  by  time.  Within  the  castle,  the  stranger 
might  easily  lose  himself  in  the  winding  corridors,  the 
vaults,  and  the  dungeons  beneath  the  walls.  There  are 
many  arched  doorways,  now  bricked  up,  that  perhaps 
once  opened  into  underground  passages  that  ran  beneath 
the  moat  and  led  out  into  the  country  beyond.  Through 
these  the  besieged  could  escape  in  case  the  castle  were 
captured. 

In  one  of  the  vaults  may  be  seen  the  great  Heidel- 
berg tun.  It  is  a  tremendous  wine  barrel  resting  on  its 
side,  and  is  capable  of  holding  eight  hundred  hogsheads 
of  wine.  The  French  thought  it  was  full  of  wine  ;  and 
after  the  capture  of  the  castle,  they  made  frantic  but 
ineffectual  efforts  to  open  the  cask.  The  marks  of 
their  hatchets  may  still  be  seen  in  its  tough  sides. 

Heidelberg  is  a  university  town,  and  at  all  hours  of 
the  day  students  may  be  seen  upon  the  streets.  They 
have  quite  a  jaunty  air,  chiefly  owing  to  their  hats  and 
canes.  Their  hats  of  red,  green,  white,  blue,  or  gold 
are  very  small,  and  are  worn  tilted  over  the  forehead  on 
one  side.  They  are  held  in  place  by  an  elastic  passing 
beneath  the  hair.  Their  canes  are  very  small  and  slen- 
der and  have  a  button  on  the  end. 

One  very  remarkable  fact  is  that  the  handsome  blonde 
faces  of  the  students  are  seamed  and  crossed  either  by 
scars  or  by  strips  of  court  plaster.  Some  look  like  the 
grotesquely  painted  faces  of  the  circus  clown.  A  stu- 
dent considers  each  scar  upon  his  "human  face  divine  "  an 


MODERN    EUROPE.  177 

honor.  Duelling  among  the  students  is  the  custom  at 
Heidelberg.  They  never  try  to  wound  the  body,  but 
always  the  face.  There  is  an  inn  on  the  outskirts  of 
the  town,  where  both  the  drinking  and  the  sword  duels 
take  place. 

Every  August,  when  the  university  closes,  there  is  a 
gala  night.  The  castle  and  the  bridge  across  the 
Neckar  are  illuminated,  and  the  students  float  on  the 
river  in  lighted  boats.  The  stars  shine  bright  in  the 
sky,  the  nightingales  sing  in  the  castle  gardens,  and 
all  is  enchanting. 

Hurrying  by  Mainz,  in  the  shadow  of  whose  beautiful 
cathedral  stands  the  statue  of  Gutenberg,  the  inventor 
of  printing,  we  come  to  Bingen.  Here  begins  the  most 
beautiful  part  of  the  whole  course  of  the  Rhine. 
Throughout  the  next  seventy  miles,  the  river  vallev  is 
very  narrow  indeed.  The  steep  cliffs  draw  close  to  the 
river,  leaving  room  only  for  the  railroad  and  carriage 
road. 

Bingen  is  a  sunny  little  town,  opposite  which  stands 
the  celebrated  "  Mouse  Tower."  That  is  a  funny  name 
for  a  castle,  but  it  came  to  be  called  so  in  this  way. 

There  was  once  a  terrible  famine  on  the  Rhine. 
People  were  starving  everywhere.  Bishop  Hatto  of 
Bingen,  whose  barns  were  filled  with  corn,  refused  to 
open  them  to  the  people.  They  cried  out  against  him, 
and  at  last  he  appeared  to  relent.  He  told  them  all  to 
come  to  his  barn.  When  they  entered  it  hoping  for 
food,  he  locked  the  door  behind  them  and  set  the  barn 
on  fire.  He  only  laughed  when  he  heard  their  shrieks, 
and  said,  "  Hear  the  rats  cry."  Soon  an  army  of  mice 


178  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

appeared  and  devoured  his  corn.  He  fled  before  them 
to  his  tower  on  the  Rhine  ;  but  they  swam  the  river, 
gnawed  through  the  walls,  and  ended  by  eating  the 
cruel  bishop. 

We  come  next  to  Bacharach,  a  village  which  is  famous 
for  its  wines.  There  is  a  rock  in  the  river  which  is  used 
as  a  gauge  of  the  grape  crop.  If  it  is  seen  in  a  certain 
month,  the  peasants  count  on  a  plentiful  harvest. 

The  vineyards  lie  mainly  between  Mainz  and  Bonn. 
They  cover  the  steep  hillsides  thickly.  The  least  scrap 
of  earth  in  the  crevices  of  the  cliffs  is  utilized.  Low 
stone  walls  are  built  about  it,  in  order  to  prevent 
the  rains  from  washing  the  soil  away.  Poles  from  four 
to  six  feet  high  are  planted  there,  and  grape  vines 
trained  upon  them. 

The  cliffs  have  been  terraced  with  infinite  care.  In 
many  cases,  all  the  soil  and  the  enrichment  of  it  have 
been  carried  by  men  and  women  up  the  cliffs  in  baskets. 
They  sometimes  are  obliged  to  crawl  up  the  narrow 
mountain  paths  on  their  knees.  With  the  long,  pannier- 
like  baskets  upon  their  backs,  they  then  look  like  beasts 
of  burden. 

At  the  end  of  October  or  the  -beginning  of  November 
the  vintage  begins  on  the  Rhine.  The  heavy  clusters 
of  white  or  purple  grapes  have  a  beautiful  bloom  by  this 
time  and  a  most  cool,  delicious  flavor.  They  are  gathered 
and  brought  down  to  the  village  by  young  men  and 
maidens.  They  are  then  poured  into  huge  vats,  in 
which  small  boys  stamp  out  the  juice  with  their  heavy 
wooden  shoes  or  thick  leather  boots.  They  do  not 
laugh  or  shout  at  their  tasks.  A  solemn  look  of  re- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  179 

sponsibility  rests  upon  each  square,  boyish  face.  When 
the  grapes  are  all  plucked  in  a  vineyard,  the  owners  set 
off  fireworks  to  announce  the  joyful  news. 

The  white  wines  coming  from  this  section  of  Ge:- 
many  are  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  pope  once  gave 
orders  that  a  cask  of  this  wine  should  be  sent  to  him 
each  year. 

It  was  in  this  vicinity  that  the  Prussians  under 
Bliicher  crossed  the  Rhine  in  1814.  When  the  first 
regiments  saw  the  noble  river,  they  rushed  forward  and 
knelt,  shouting :  "  The  Rhine  !  the  Rhine  !  "  Those  in 
the  rear  hastened  forward,  supposing,  from  the  excite- 
ment, that  their  comrades  had  come  upon  the  enemy. 

Some  distance  below  Bacharach  a  dark  and  lofty  crag 
rises  above  the  right  bank  of  the  river.  This  is  the 
Lorelei.  Just  below  the  rock  is  a  dangerous  whirlpool, 
and,  as  a  further  addition  to  the  terrors  of  the  place, 
there  is  an  echo  which  reverberates  fifteen  times.  It  is 
a  dangerous  spot  for  boatmen  to  pass  on  a  dark  night. 

So  many  lost  their  lives  in  the  whirlpool  that  there 
came  to  be  a  general  belief  that  some  uncanny  and 
wicked  genius  haunted  the  place.  The  Germans  pict- 
ured this  genius  as  a  lovely  siren  with  the  most  beautiful 
golden  locks  and  the  sweetest  voice  in  the  world.  She 
combed  her  locks  to  bewitching  music.  The  listening 
fishermen  forgot  their  perils,  until  they  found  them- 
selves in  the  clutch  of  the  whirlpool. 

Castles  cluster  thickly  along  this  part  of  the  river. 
Here  is  Rhinefels,  six  hundred  years  old  and  the 
finest  ruin  on  the  Rhine.  Like  many  of  the  other  cas- 
tles, it  was  built  and  held  by  a  robber  baron,  who  would 


180  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

allow  no  vessel  to  pass  his  castle  until  it  had  paid  a 
heavy  toll.  These  barons  made  themselves  so  hated 
that  at  length  a  confederation  of  sixty  cities  was  formed 
against  them.  Armies  were  raised,  and  many  castles, 
Rhinefels  among  the  number,  were  besieged  and  capt- 
ured. 

Here  are  the  grim  castles  of  Liebenstein  and  Sternen- 
fels,  and  here  the  lovely  old  ruin  of  Stolzenfels,  with  its 
shattered  casements  and  ruined  arches.  A  bishop  once 
lived  here,  who  longed  to  find  the  Philosopher's  Stone. 
It  was  believed  that  everything  that  stone  touched  would 
change  to  pure  gold.  Day  after  day,  year  after  year,  the 
man,  growing  grayer  daily,  bent  over  his  crucible.  It 
was  a  hopeless  task.  He  never  discovered  what  he 
sought,  and  he  lost  what  was  more  precious  than  any 
stone,  —  the  best  opportunities  of  his  life. 

The  Moselle  River  joins  the  Rhine  on  the  left-hand 
side.  At  its  mouth  is  the  city  of  Coblenz,  opposite 
which,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Rhine,  rises  the  strong 
fortress  of  Ehrenbreitstein,  the  "  Broad  Stone  of  Honor." 
This  fortress  occupies  a  commanding  position  on  a  hill 
nearly  five  hundred  feet  high.  It  is,  next  to  the  for- 
tresses of  Gibraltar  and  Malta,  the  strongest  fort  in 
Europe.  It  has  been  called  the  Gibraltar  of  the  Rhine. 
It  is  well  that  it  should  be  strong,  for  whoever  holds  it 
holds  the  Rhine. 

It  is  now  thinly  o-arrisoned ;  but,  taking  in  the  town 
of  Coblenz,  a  garrison  of  one  hundred  thousand  men 
can  be  accommodated  here  at  any  time. 

There  is  a  fountain  in  Coblenz  which  has  two  amus- 
ing inscriptions  upon  it.  When  a  French  general  was 


MODERN    EUROPE.  181 

passing  through  Coblenz  on  his  way  to  Russia  in  1814, 
he  caused  this  fountain  to  be  erected,  as  the  inscription 
declares,  "  In  memory  of  the  campaign  against  Russia." 
He  was  sure  of  victory  ;  but,  as  it  happened,  the  French 
were  disastrously  defeated. 

Soon  after,  the  Russian  general  passed  through  Cob- 
lenz. He  saw  this  fountain,  and  with  grim  humor 
caused  these  words  to  be  added,  "Seen  and  approved 
by  the  Russian  general." 

Perhaps  the  most  beautiful  bit  of  the  Rhine  is  at 
Rolandseck.  Two  crags  crowned  by  ruined  towers  rise 
on  each  side  of  the  river.  That  on  the  left  hand  is 
Rolandseck ;  that  on  the  right,  the  Drachenfels,  one  of 
a  long  range  of  seven  mountains,  which  stretches  nearly 
down  to  Cologne.  Between  the  two  mountains  is  the 
green  island  of  Nonnenwerth.  Beneath  dark  linden 
trees  shine  the  white  walls  of  the  convent  of  Nonnen- 
werth. 

Once  there  was  a  brave  knight  called  Roland,  who 
loved  a  gentle  lady  named  Hildegard.  He  was  obliged 
to  go  to  war  against  the  Spaniards  with  his  king, 
Charlemagne.  On  his  return  they  were  to  be  married. 
He  was  gone  a  long  time,  so  long  that  Hildegard  finally 
gave  up  all  hope  of  seeing  him  again.  Then  she  heard 
of  his  death,  and  in  her  despair  she  became  a  nun  in  the 
convent  of  Nonnenwerth. 

But  the  brave  and  good  Roland  was  not  dead.  He 
returned  soon  after,  and  was  overcome  with  sorrow  at 
the  loss  of  his  beautiful  Hildegard.  He  built  this 
tower  commanding  a  view  of  the  island,  and  spent  the 
rest  of  his  life  in  gazing  at  Nonnenwerth  and  listening 


182  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

to  the  chiming  convent  bells.  It  seems  a  pity  for  a 
brave  young  knight  thus  to  throw  away  his  life,  but  the 
Germans  assure  you  that  the  story  is  a  true  one. 

Drachenfels  means  Dragon's  Height.  Once  a  fiery 
dragon  lived  in  a  cave  half  way  up  the  mountain  side. 
Siegfried,  a  brave  German  hero,  came  to  fight  the 
dragon,  and  after  a  hard  battle  succeeded  in  killing  it. 
He  then  bathed  himself  from  head  to  foot  in  the  blood 
of  the  dragon,  which  made  his  flesh  become  as  hard  as 
horn  and  as  capable  of  resisting  blows  as  armor.  One 
little  place  between  his  shoulders  he  could  not  reach, 
and  only  there  might  an  arrow  or  sword  kill  him. 

Does  n't  this  remind  you  of  another  brave  chieftain  ? 
Yes,  it  was  the  Grecian  Achilles.  His  mother  dipped 
him,  when  a  child,  in  the  river  Styx.  After  that  he 
could  only  be  wounded  in  the  heel  by  which  she  was 
obliged  to  hold  him. 

The  blood  of  the  dragon  soaked  into  the  soil,  and  to 
this  day  all  the  grapes  that  grow  on  the  hill  are  blood- 
red.  The  wine  made  from  them  is  called  "Dragon's 
Blood." 

Hurrying  by  Bonn,  the  birthplace  of  Beethoven,  one 
of  the  many  great  German  musicians,  we  reach  Cologne, 
where  our  journey  down  the  Rhine  ends. 

Cologne  is  the  third  city  where  we  have  seen  a  bridge 
of  boats,  the  other  cities  being  Strasburg  and  Coblenz. 
These  curious  bridges  are  made  in  this  way.  Boats  are 
moored  in  a  line  across  the  stream,  and  then  planking 
is  laid  from  one  boat  to  the  next.  Of  course  no  vessels 
can  pass  under  such  a  bridge,  and  so  it  is  arranged  to 
open  and  shut  while  they  pass  through.  It  is  quite 


MODERN    EUROPE.  183 

entertaining  to  see  the  bridge  slowly  open  for  one  oi 
those  great  timber  rafts  which  we  have  occasionally 
noticed  on  our  journey.  They  remind  us  of  the 
Canadian  rafts  on  the  Ottawa  and  St.  Lawrence  Rivers, 
that  we  read  of  in  "  Our  American  Neighbors." 

Single  logs  or  small  rafts  come  floating  down  the 
tributaries  of  the  Rhine.  At  the  upper  towns  they  are 
bound  into  large  rafts  from  three  to  five  hundred  feet 
long,  and  perhaps  two  hundred  feet  wide.  From  two 
to  four  hundred  men  guide  them  down  the  river.  Their 
families  live  in  small  cottages  upon  the  raft.  So  they 
sail  slowly  down  between  the  beautiful  and  romantic 
shores  of  the  German  Rhine  into  Holland,  and  so  on  to 
Dort.  There  the  rafts  are  broken  up ;  and  the  timber 
goes  to  Rotterdam,  either  to  be  exported  or  to  be  used 
in  ship  building. 

The  cathedral  of  Cologne  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
buildings  in  Europe.  It  was  begun  in  the  thirteenth  cen- 
tury, and  has  only  been  finished  within  the  last  decade. 

All  the  arches  of  the  cathedral  are  narrow  and  pointed. 
This  shows  that  it  belongs  to  the  Gothic  style  of  archi- 
tecture. It  would  take  you  a  long  time  to  count  the 
points  on  the  cathedral  front.  Every  line  forms  a 
pointed  arch  with  some  other  line,  and  they  all  combine 
to  give  the  cathedral  the  appearance  of  rising  far  toward 
heaven. 

The  interior,  with  its  marble  floors  and  carved  pillars. 
is  equally  magnificent.  Back  of  the  altar  is  a  chape  i 
containing  the  most  precious  relics  in  the  cathedral. 
They  are  the  bones  of  the  three  wise  men  who  came  to 
worship  the  child  Christ.  They  are  inclosed  in  a  golden 


COLOGNE    CATHEDRAL. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  185 

casket  with  the  names  of  the  wise  men  written  upon  it 
in  gleaming  jewels. 

What  reverence  these  poor  bones  and  skulls  have 
awakened  in  the  past !  The  old  robber  barons  would 
swear  by  everything  sacred  in  heaven,  and  break  their 
vows  as  soon  as  made.  But  once  get  them  to  swear  by 
these  three  kings  of  Cologne,  and  they  never  broke 
their  word. 

The  church  of  St.  Ursula,  though  not  so  beautiful,  is 
nearly  as  interesting  as  the  cathedral.  St.  Ursula,  —  so 
the  story  goes,  —  before  her  marriage  made  a  pilgrimage 
to  Rome.  She  was  accompanied  on  her  pious  journey 
by  eleven  thousand  maidens.  On  their  return  they 
encountered  an  army  of  Huns,  and  were  slain  near 
Cologne. 

The  bones  of  these  maidens,  or  virgins,  can  be  seen 
in  the  church  of  St.  Ursula.  The  sight  is  a  ghastly  one, 
for  the  walls  are  lined  with  bones,  bones  are  intertwined 
in  lattices  overhead,  and  the  white  teeth  of  skulls  gleam 
on  every  side.  If  one  of  those  virgins  should  come  back 
to  life  as  young  and  fair  as  of  old,  she  would  immediately 
die  of  fright  at  finding  herself  amid  such  hideous  sur- 
roundings. 

From  this  point,  the  course  of  the  river  Rhine  is  so 
uninteresting  that  travelers  rarely  sail  below  Cologne. 
The  river  makes  its  way  over  flat,  level  plains ;  and 
after  it  enters  Holland  it  is  walled  in  by  dikes,  so  high 
that  no  view  of  the  surrounding  prospect  is  obtained. 

The  Rhine  itself  seems  to  lose  its  individuality  in  Hol- 
land. It  sends  off  so  many  arms  to  other  streams  that 
it  becomes  but  a  sluggish  river,  inclined  to  lose  itself  in 


186  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

the  sand,  and  having  to  be  guided  and  helped  on  its  way 
by  dikes  and  canals.  It  saunters  past  quaint  old  Ley- 
den,  and  on  to  the  North  Sea.  And  so,  "  Fare  thee  well, 
Father  Rhine !  " 


CHAPTER  X. 
THREE   WEALTHY  CITIES   OF   GERMANY. 

Travelers  say  that  when  one  has  seen  Paris,  he  has 
seen  France.  This  is  because  Paris  has  gathered  to 
herself  all  the  valuable  or  interesting  works  of  art  and 
all  the  historical  relics  that  are  contained  in  the  repub- 
lic. Here  we  find  numerous  picture  galleries,  museums, 
and  collections ;  and  we  find  them  almost  nowhere  else 
in  France.  Havre,  Lyons,  Marseilles,  and  Bordeaux  are 
nearly  as  bare  of  such  possessions  as  if  a  conqueror  had 
swept  through  their  streets,  carrying  off  all  desirable 
objects  of  beauty  to  his  own  country.  Paris  is,  indeed, 
the  center  of  beauty  in  France. 

It  is  very  different  in  Germany.  There  we  find  many 
such  centers.  The  reason  for  it  is  this.  Up  to  the  year 
1870,  Germany  consisted  of  many  kingdoms  or  duke- 
doms, each  ruled  by  its  own  particular  king  or  duke. 
Each  small  state  had  its  own  capital,  which  its  rulers 
beautified,  from  time  to  time,  by  laying  out  parks  and 
pleasure  grounds,  and  by  building  palaces  and  museums. 
So  when  all  these  states  united  to  form  the  empire,  it 
came  to  pass  that  Germany  had  many  rich  and  inter- 
esting cities.  There  were  Berlin,  Dresden,  Munich, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  187 

Stuttgart,  Hanover,  and  many  others, —  all  of  which 
had  been  capitals  of  states. 

Nearly  every  small  town  in  Germany  is  noted  for 
something.  Perhaps  it  contains  a  ruined  castle,  or  is 
the  birthplace  of  some  poet  or  painter.  Perhaps  some 
great  battle  or  siege  once  caused  its  quiet  streets  to 
resound  with  the  din  of  war.  It  takes  a  Paris  to  hold 
the  treasures  of  France;  it  would  take  half  a  dozen 
Parises  to  contain  the  treasures  of  Germany. 

I  wish  we  might  visit  all  the  large  cities,  but  there  is 
time  for  but  three.  Those  are  Berlin,  Dresden,  and 
Hamburg.  First  of  all,  we  must  pay  our  respects  to  the 
German  capital. 

Berlin  is  undoubtedly  a  beautiful  city,  but  it  appears 
very  new  indeed  to  one  who  has  just  turned  away  from 
the  hoary  castles  of  the  Rhine. 

One  of  the  best  views  of  the  city  is  obtained  from  the 
Tower  of  Victory,  which  stands  in  a  beautiful  park  at 
the  southern  side  of  the  city.  From  there,  we  see  the 
fine  wide  streets  stretching  away  for  the  distance  of 
two  miles  or  two  miles  and  a  half.  They  are  paved 
with  asphalt,  and  are  so  smooth  that  horses  continually 
slip  on  them  and  painfully  regain  their  balance.  There 
are  many  public  buildings,  most  of  which,  however, 
have  been  built  since  the  capture  of  Berlin  by  Napoleon 
early  in  the  century. 

The  dwelling  houses  are  of  many  stories.  Each  story 
is  occupied  by  a  family.  The  rich  live  in  the  central 
stories,  while  the  attics  and  the  cellars  are  often  occu- 
pied by  the  poor.  They  suffer  much  in  the  cold  weather, 
as  the  German  houses  are  not  so  well  heated  as  ours. 


188  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

Descending  the  Tower  of  Victory,  we  approach  the 
Brandenburg  gate.  This  gatewa}^  is  built  in  the  Greek 
style.  It  consists  of  five  archways  ornamented  by  a 
beautiful  bronze  statue,  representing  the  Goddess  of 
Victory  riding  in  her  car.  When  Napoleon  Bonaparte 
captured  Berlin,  he  carried  this  away  to  Paris;  but 
eight  years  later,  the  Germans  proudly  brought  it  home 
again  and  set  it  up  in  its  old  place. 

If  you  should  attempt  to  pass  through  the  central 
arch,  a  soldier  would  spring  forward  to  stop  you.  Only 
the  royal  family  can  pass  under  that  arch.  The  other 
four  are  for  the  public. 

The  Brandenburg  gate  stands  at  one  end  of  the  finest 
street  in  Germany,  Unter  den  Linden,  which  means 
under  the  linden  trees.  A  footpath  runs  down  the  mid- 
dle of  the  street,  on  each  side  of  which  are  planted  two 
rows  of  lindens.  Beyond  the  lindens  again  are  carriage 
roads.  The  street  is  lined  with  shops  and  houses. 

This  is  the  most  fashionable  drive  in  the  city,  and  at 
certain  Jiours  of  the  day,  elegant  equipages  carrying 
princes,  generals,  statesmen,  and  their  families,  dash 
through  Unter  den  Linden  in  the  direction  either  of  the 
Brandenburg  gate  or  of  the  old  Schloss,  or  castle,  which 
forms  the  northern  termination  of  the  walk  under  the 
lindens.  The  half  of  the  street  toward  the  castle  is 
crowded  with  state  buildings.  There  are  the  palace  of 
the  emperor,  the  university,  the  royal  library,  the  thea- 
ter, and  one  or  two  embassies. 

Opposite  the  palace  of  the  emperor  stands  the  statue 
of  Frederick  the  Great.  For  over  one  hundred  years  he 
has  been  the  idol  of  the  German  people.  Old  Fritz,  as 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


189 


STATUE    OF    FREDERICK    THE    GREAT. 


190  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE 

they  call  him,  was  one  of  the  greatest  generals  of 
modern  times.  He  fought  and  won  the  Silesian  War 
and  the  Seven  Years'  War,  although  the  odds  against 
him  were  enormous. 

The  coffin  of  Frederick  is  at  Potsdam,  a  town  about 
sixteen  miles  from  Berlin.  Napoleon  visited  it  after  he 
had  taken  Berlin,  and  exclaimed,  as  he  gazed  down 
upon  the  small  plain  casket,  "I  should  never  have 
been  here,  if  thou  hadst  lived."  Frederick  made  Prussia 
one  of  the  foremost  powers  of  the  German  states,  and  so 
may  be  said  to  have  prepared  the  way  for  the  empire. 

To-day,  his  statue  stands  opposite  the  emperor's 
home,  as  if,  by  showing  what  a  man  Germany  has  had 
in  her  hour  of  need,  to  quicken  her  present  rulers 
to  a  like  consciousness  of  their  glorious  powers. 

The  statue  of  bronze  is  mounted  upon  a  stone  pedes- 
tal, decorated  with  many  bas-reliefs  and  small  figures 
of  the  generals  and  statesmen  of  the  age  of  Frederick. 
He  himself  is  seated  on  horseback.  He  wears  his  coro- 
nation robes,  and  carries  a  cane.  Beneath  his  cocked 
hat  his  keen,  sharp,  thoroughly  French  face  looks  out 
over  his  free  and  united  Fatherland.  This  is  said 
to  be  the  finest  and  most  costly  bronze  statue  in  the 
world. 

The  Schloss,  at  the  end  of  Unter  den  Linden,  is  the 
one  thoroughly  old  castle  in  Berlin.  It  was  built  in  the 
fifteenth  century  and  contains  six  hundred  rooms,  many 
of  which  are  open  to  the  visitor. 

We,  in  America,  can  have  no  idea  of  the  elegance  of 
these  apartments  or  of  the  vast  sums  of  money  spent 
upon  them.  The  furnishing  of  the  "White  Room" 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


191 


alone  cost  six  hundred  thousand  dollars,  twice  as  much 
as  the  whole  cost  of  building  and  furnishing  the  White 
House.  And  this  is  only  one  room  in  six  hundred ;  and 
this  is  only  one  castle  in  hundreds.  Think  of  it !  Our 
Executive  Mansion  must  appear  very  cheap  in  the  eyes 
of  foreigners  used  to  such 
splendor. 

The  Schloss  has  hundreds 
of  halls  with  elegant  carved 
ceilings,  walls  either  painted 
or  hung  with  silk  tapestry, 
and  mirror-like  floors  of  mar- 
ble or  polished  wood.  Most 
beautifully  carved  chairs  and 
tables  stand  about.  The  pic- 
tures, armor,  china,  and  bric- 
a-brac  are  of  corresponding 
elegance.  We  visit  the  room 
in  which  Frederick  the  Great 
was  born,  arid  at  last,  thoroughly  wearied  with  the  mag- 
nificence, we  cross  to  the  museum  through  the  pretty 
park  on  which  the  castle  faces. 

The  museum  consists  of  two  buildings  connected  by 
a  corridor.  One  is  the  old  museum,  and  the  other,  the 
new.  Both  are  long,  low  buildings  with  pillared  fronts 
and  many  shallow  steps,  leading  up  to  the  vestibule. 
There  are  two  bronze  statues,  one  on  each  side  of  the 
steps,  while  the  inner  walls  of  the  vestibule  are  deco- 
rated with  a  series  of  beautiful  and  interesting  paint- 
ings. 

There  are  three  floors  in  each  building,  and  on  each 


WILLIAM     II. 


192  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

the  arrangement  of  the  exhibit  is  the  same.  The  lower 
floor  of  both  museums  is  devoted  to  antiquities ;  the 
middle  floor,  to  statues;  and  the  upper,  to  paintings. 
The  collection  of  paintings  is  good,  but  not  so  fine  as 
that  of  Dresden  or  Munich. 

The  third  side  of  this  square  upon  which  the  Schloss 
arid  the  museum  face,  is  occupied  by  the  cathedral.  It  is 
not  a  remarkable  building.  Indeed,  Berlin  is  somewhat 
poor,  so  far  as  churches  go.  It  has  very  few,  consider- 
ing its  great  size ;  and  these  are  neither  very  old  nor  very 
famous.  Only  about  one  tenth  of  the  population  of 
Berlin  attend  church  on  Sundays. 

The  rear  of  the  Schloss  looks  out  on  the  Spree,  a 
tributary  of  the  Elbe,  which  flows  through  Berlin. 
Across  the  river  at  this  point  is  a  fine  bridge,  whose 
parapet  is  decorated  at  intervals  by  statues  that  fornua 
series  representing  eight  different  stages  in  the  ideal 
warrior's  life.  The  first  statue  represents  the  boy 
listening  to  the  stories  of  the  old  heroes  told  him  by 
Victory.  This  is  exceedingly  lovely.  The  other  statues 
show  him  learning  to  fight,  receiving  his  arms,  being 
crowned  after  battle,  being  aided  by  the  gods  in  danger, 
receiving  his  mortal  wound,  and  being  led  away  to 
Olympus. 

The  Germans  are  a  nation  of  soldiers,  and  the  traveler 
is  most  conscious  of  the  fact  in  Berlin.  At  all  hours  of 
the  day  the  officers  may  be  seen  upon  the  streets,  with 
their  long  swords  jingling  beside  them  and  striking 
against  the  pavement  as  they  walk.  The  regiments  are 
drilled  daily,  and  sham  battles  take  place  almost  as 
frequently. 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


193 


A  stranger  in  the  city,  entering  one  of  the  squares 
where  such  a  battle  is  going  on,  would  believe  that  the 
engagement  was  a  serious  one.  The  men  go  through  the 
movements  with  the  accuracy  and  precision  of  machinery. 
It  seems  as  if  nothing  could  stand  against  them. 

Every  German,  even  the  crown  prince,  has  to  serve 
a  certain  length  of  time  in  the  army.  Many  afterwards 
remain  all  their  lives.  The  pay  is  exceedingly  small, 
but  so  poor  are  the  German 
people  that  every  vacant 
place  in  the  ranks  is  easily 
filled. 

The  whole  city  looks  as  if 
it  were  drilled.  The  houses 
wheel  into  line,  and  even 
the  infants,  placed  in  their 
little  carriages  so  as  to  face 
the  nurse,  fix  their  eyes  upon 
her  as  if  waiting  the  com- 
mand :  "  Attention,  Battal- 
ion !  Forward, — march ! ' ' 

One  hundred  miles  south 
of  Berlin  is  the  old  city  of 
Dresden,  the  capital  of  Saxony.  Dresden  is  built  on 
both  sides  of  the  Elbe,  the  old  town  lying  on  the  south- 
ern side  and  the  new  on  the  northern. 

Dresden  is  famed  far  and  wide  for  its  art  galleries, 
which  many  people  declare  are  the  finest  in  Europe,  - 
finer  than  those  of  Italy,  finer  even  than  those  in  Paris 
and   Madrid.     The   collection  is  in   a   museum  which 
forms  the  northern  side  of  the  Zwinger. 


BISMARK. 


194  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  Zwinger  is  a  curious  group  of  buildings  which 
was  originally  designed  as  an  entrance  hall  to  a  palace ; 
but  this  palace  was  planned  on  so  magnificent  a  scale 
that  it  has  never  been  completed.  The  buildings  of  the 
Zwinger  inclose  three  sides  of  an  open  court,  which  is 
laid  out  very  prettily  as  a  park  with  walks,  gravel  paths, 
and  trees. 

There  are  many  picture  galleries  in  the  museum,  all 
of  which  are  lighted  from  above.  One  is  not  imme- 
diately dazzled  with  a  display  of  fine  pictures.  It  is 
only  as  he  goes  from  room  to  room  that  the  numbers, 
the  value,  and  the  great  beauty  of  the  art  collection 
dawn  upon  him.  It  is  not  so  much  a  blinding  dazzle 
as  a  beautiful  vista. 

The  glory  of  the  collection  is  the  Sistine  Madonna  (see 
Frontispiece),  painted  by  Raphael.  Turn  and  look  at  the 
picture  of  it  at  the  beginning  of  this  book.  You  see 
there  are  six  people  in  the  picture,  who  arrange  them- 
selves in  groups  of  two.  In  the  center  stands  the  Ma- 
donna holding  the  infant  Christ  in  her  arms.  The  faces 
of  both  mother  and  child  are  very  thoughtful  and  lovely. 
On  either  side,  a  little  below  the  mother  and  child,  are 
St.  Sextus  and  St.  Barbara.  St.  Sextus  was  once  a 
pope,  and  his  miter,  or  papal  crown,  is  by  his  feet.  At 
the  lower  edge  of  the  painting  are  two  little  dimpled 
cherubs,  looking  upward  at  the  baby  Christ.  Their 
beautiful  little  faces  have  been  copied  in  sketch  and 
photograph  as  often  as  the  central  group  itself. 

This  picture  forms  one  of  the  world's  priceless  pos- 
sessions. Saxony  has  refused  a  million  dollars  for  it. 
It  is  not  so  large  a  picture  as  you  might  suppose,  being 


MODERN    EUROPE,  195 

about  eight  feet  long  by  six  wide.  It  has  a  room  to 
itself  in  the  Dresden  gallery,  and  there  are  always 
crowds  before  it,  gazing  at  its  wonderful  coloring  and 
majestic  beauty. 

There  is  another  picture  here  that  perhaps  you  may 
have  seen.  Three  royal  children  are  standing  together. 
They  are  dressed  in  elaborately  embroidered  silk  dresses 
with  broad  lace  collars,  while  quaint  lace  caps  encircle 
their  demure,  pretty  little  faces.  They  are  the  children 
of  Charles  the  First,  painted  by  Vandyke.  The  original 
portrait  of  their  illustrious  father,  by  the  same  artist,  is 
here  also. 

The  gallery  contains  masterpieces  of  Paul  Veronese 
and  Titian,  and  has  next  to  the  largest  number  of  Cor- 
reggio's  works  in  Europe. 

Another  famous  collection  of  Dresden  is  that  of  the 
Green  Vault.  There  the  kings  of  Saxony  have  gathered 
together  a  mass  of  riches,  worth  millions  of  dollars. 
We  see  elegantly  wrought  bronzes,  exquisite  carvings 
in  ivory,  lovely  mosaics  and  enamels,  pictures,  watches, 
goblets,  statues,  plates  of  solid  silver  and  gold,  and 
hosts  of  precious  articles  too  numerous  to  mention. 
There  are  emeralds,  rubies,  pearls,  and  diamonds,  either 
free  or  adorning  the  crowns,  collars,  and  sword  hilts  of 
the  dead  and  buried  kings.  Rings  belonging  to  Luther 
and  Melancthon  are  exhibited,  and  there  is  an  interest- 
ing set  of  articles  of  coral  and  amber.  Probably  there 
is  nowhere  else  in  Europe  so  valuable  a  collection  of 
treasures. 

Hamburg,  in  the  northeastern  part  of  Germany,  is 
the  greatest  commercial  city  on  the  continent  of  Europe. 


196  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

It  exports  and  imports  more  than  the  countries  of  Hol- 
land, Belgium,  or  Spain. 

Somehow,  commercial  cities  do  not  usually  prove  so 
interesting  to  visit  as  other  cities.  You  remember  what 
a  stupid  place  the  great  commercial  city  of  Rotterdam 
proved  to  be.  It  was  so  busy  getting  rich  that  it  had 
no  money  to  spare  for  museums  or  picture  galleries. 
This  is  very  nearly  true  of  Hamburg.  It  has,  however, 
some  fine  churches.  The  church  of  St.  Nicholas  has 
one  of  the  highest  spires  in  Europe. 

You  will  be  interested  to  know  that  Hamburg  is  cele- 
brated for  its  fine  candies  and  its  cut  flowers.  Every- 
where else  in  Germany  flowers  can  only  be  bought 
made  up  into  set  bouquets,  in  which  the  flowers  are 
sorted  into  rings  according  to  variety  and  color.  In 
Hamburg  alone  can  flowers  be  bought  in  loose  hand- 
fuls. 

One  feature  of  the  city  interested  me  exceedingly, 
and  that  was  the  canals,  or  "  fleets,"  as  they  are  called. 
Hamburg,  you  see,  is  in  the  neighborhood  of  Denmark 
and  Holland,  where  most  of  the  streets  are  waterways. 
Its  canals,  however,  form  merely  the  back  streets  of  the 
city,  and  are  lined  with  warehouses,  cellars,  and  the 
houses  of  the  very  poor. 

The  Elbe  is  a  tidal  river.  So  it  happens  that  some- 
times the  canals  are  perfectly  dry,  and  then  again  the 
water  in  them  is  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  deep.  When 
the  canals  are  nearly  dry,  ragpickers  and  ashmen  wan- 
der through  them,  hoping  to  find  some  article  of  value 
that  may  have  fallen  or  been  washed  into  the  canal.  If 
the  tide  should  turn  suddenly,  these  miserable  people, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  197 

if  not  warned,  would  be  drowned,  like  rats  in  a 
trap. 

To  avoid  this  possibility,  daily,  when  the  tide  turns, 
word  is  flashed  by  telegraph  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Elbe  to  Hamburg  some  sixty  miles  away.  Then  three 
guns  are  fired,  and  those  in  the  fleets  hasten  out. 

When  it  seems  as  if  there  is  to  be  an  unusually  high 
tide,  as  is  frequently  the  case  at  the  time  of  the  equi- 
noxes, three  more  shots  are  fired.  Then  the  dwellers 
beside  the  canals  move  out  their  goods,  and  leave  their 
homes  for  some  days.  When  the  floods  are  over,  they 
return  to  their  water-soaked,  oozy  houses,  thankful  that 
their  goods  and  lives  have  been  preserved. 

I  suppose  you  have  hardly  thought  a  safe  home  on 
firm  dry  land  something  to  be  thankful  for.  If  read- 
ing about  Holland  and  Hamburg  has  made  you  grate- 
ful, you  will  be  still  more  so  when  you  enter  Italy,  and 
see  cities  against  which  fire  and  earth  rise  up,  as  well 
as  water. 


CHAPTER  XL 
WHAT  THE   DANUBE   SEES. 

The  Rhine  is  not  the  only  famous  river  in  Germany. 
It  has  a  formidable  rival  in  the  Danube.  This  river  is 
one  thousand  miles  longer  than  the  Rhine,  and  is  the 
fourth  river  in  size  in  Europe.  It  flows  through  country 
nearly  as  picturesque  as  that  of  the  Rhine.  The  heights 
along  its  shores  are  crowned  with  the  ruins  of  castles 


198  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

and  fortresses  ;  while  its  vineyards  are  much  more  lux- 
uriant and  beautiful. 

If  you  look  at  the  course  of  the  Danube  River  on  the 
map,  you  cannot  fail  to  notice  the  long  bee  line  which 
it  makes  across  the  continent  of  Europe  to  the  Black 
Sea.  Southern  Germany,  Austria,  Hungary,  and  the 
provinces  of  Servia,  Bulgaria,  and  Roumania,  all  form  a 
part  of  its  valley.  It  bathes  the  feet  of  four  capital 
cities.  The  rude  villages  of  many  different  races  clus- 
ter along  its  brink,  and  curious  customs  belong  to  the 
people  that  live  in  its  valley. 

Would  it  not  be  an  interesting  journey  to  follow  this 
river  from  its  source  in  quiet  Baden  down  to  the  rough 
Black  Sea  ?  Then  we  shall  see  with  our  own  eyes  what 
the  Danube  has  looked  upon  for  years  and  years. 

The  mighty  Danube  River  is  formed  by  two  small 
streams  rising  in  the  Black  Forest  region.  The  young 
river,  growing  stronger  and  steadier  as  it  measures  off 
every  additional  mile  in  its  course,  crosses  Baden,  Wur- 
temberg,  and  level  Bavaria. 

Much  of  Bavaria,  the  large  southeastern  province  of 
Germany,  is  flat  as  a  floor.  It  is  a  beautiful  though 
monotonous  country.  Immense  fields  of  yellow  grain 
stretch  away  to  the  horizon.  The  blue  flax  flower  and 
the  scarlet  poppy  nod  here  and  there  beneath  waving 
tufts  of  Indian  corn.  Straight  white  roads  bisect  the 
fields  occasionally,  yet  there  is  almost  no  life  whatever 
seen  upon  them. 

Just  before  crossing  the  boundary  line  between 
Bavaria  and  Austria,  the  Danube  is  joined  by  two  rivers 
coming  from  the  southwest.  They  are  the  Isar  and  the 


MODERN    EUROPE.  199 

Inn,  swift  streams  that  rise  in  the  mountains  of  the 
Austrian  province  called  the  Tyrol.  They  cut  their 
way  through  the  mountains,  and  bring  down  much 
earth  to  enrich  the  valley. 

Did  you  ever  read  the  famous  poem  of  "Hohenlin- 
den  "  ?  It  begins, 

"  On  Linden  when  the  sun  was  low, 
All  bloodless  lay  the  untrodden  snow ; 
And  dark  as  Egypt  was  the  flow 
Of  Isar  rolling  rapidly.' 

I  used  to  think  that  Isar  was  a  volcano,  but  you  see 
it  is  this  dark,  swift  tributary  of  the  Danube  to  which 
we  have  just  been  introduced.  The  poem  goes  on  to 
describe  the  famous  battle,  fought  at  Hohenlinden  on 
the  Isar  River,  between  the  French  and  the  Austrians. 
The  French  were  victorious,  and  eighteen  thousand  of 
the  enemy  were  left  killed  and  wounded  on  the  battle- 
field, to  be  covered  by  the  pure,  swiftly  falling  snow. 

The  Isar  also  passes  through  the  city  of  Munich,  the 
capital  of  Bavaria.  Munich  is  one  of  the  most  remark- 
able of  the  German  cities. 

Imagine  a  traveler  who  had  been  all  through  Europe, 
but  who  had  remained  longest  in  Italy  and  Greece. 
Suppose  this  traveler,  with  his  mind  full  of  vivid  im- 
pressions of  the  many  famous  cities  and  buildings  he 
had  seen,  to  become  weary  and  to  fall  asleep.  He  has 
a  nightmare  in  which  the  ghosts  of  all  these  buildings 
appear  to  dance  before  him.  He  sees  St.  Mark's  in 
Venice,  the  Pitti  Palace  in  Florence,  and  the  Arch  of 
Constantine,  all  planted  upon  one  street. 


200  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Now  this  strange  freak  of  a  dream  will  be  found  to 
be  a  reality  in  Munich.  The  doubles  of  those  famous 
buildings  are  really  here.  How  did  it  come  to  pass  ? 

You  must  know  that  in  the  early  quarter  of  this 
century,  Ludwig,  king  of  Bavaria,  determined  to  beau- 
tify his  capital  city  of  Munich.  He  had  traveled  much, 
and  decided  to  erect  here  public  buildings,  some  to  be 
exact  copies  of  what  he  had  admired  abroad,  and  others 
to  resemble  them  in  a  degree.  He  laid  out  a  wide 
boulevard  called  Ludwig  Strasse,  and  proceeded  to  erect 
Grecian  and  Italian  palaces,  museums,  libraries,  and 
colleges  along  this  street. 

He  employed  so  many  architects,  artists,  and  frescoers 
that  the  craze  spread  over  the  city.  The  whole  popula- 
tion seconded  the  king  in  all  his  efforts.  Classic-looking 
buildings  sprang  up  on  all  sides;  also  gateways  and 
pillars,  built  in  ancient  style.  Maximilian  Strasse,  at 
right  angles  with  Ludwig  Strasse,  is  nearly  as  richly 
ornamented  with  imported  monstrosities. 

The  city  is  interesting,  but  is  not  altogether  an  artistic 
success.  The  buildings,  painted  a  cold  gray  or  a  dull 
yellow,  need  a  blue  sky  and  sunshine  to  bring  out  their 
lights  and  shadows.  This  they  rarely  get  in  rainy  Mu- 
nich. The  climate  is  so  damp  that  the  frescoes  look 
washed  out,  and  the  stucco-work  is  peeling. 

The  most  delightful  section  of  the  city  is  the  homely, 
old-fashioned  quarter  that  King  Ludwig  did  not  deign 
to  notice,  and  which,  therefore,  has  no  borrowed  plumage 
in  the  shape  of  Italian  palaces  and  Grecian  temples. 

Munich  is  celebrated  for  one  thing  more,  besides  its 
art  buildings  and  its  really  fine  picture  galleries.  This 


MODERN    EUROPE.  201 

is  its  beer.  Bavarian  beer  is  the  best  in  Germany,  and 
Munich  beer  is  the  best  in  Bavaria. 

Every  man,  woman,  and  child  seems  to  be  of  this 
opinion ;  for  at  all  hours  of  the  morning,  afternoon,  and 
evening  you  may  see  parties  drinking  in  the  shady  beer 
gardens  or  in  the  great  halls  of  the  breweries  and  beer 
shops.  Soldiers  drink  at  their  posts,  and  the  empty 
beer  mugs  collect  about  them ;  servants  carry  trays  of 
beer  tankards  through  the  streets ;  on  rainy  days,  men 
will  be  seen  holding  beer  mugs  in  one  hand  and  their 
umbrellas  in  the  other. 

At  noon,  the  crowd  entering  and  leaving  the  popular 
breweries  is  amazing.  Men  form  in  line,  and  advance 
slowly  to  the  counter.  There  they  present  their  mugs, 
which  are  filled  by  the  waiters.  There  are,  say,  six  men 
behind  the  counter.  Each  seizes  a  dozen  mugs  at  once, 
balances  them  on  his  hands  and  arms,  holds  them  undei 
the  spigot  of  the  barrel,  and  hurls  them  back  on  the 
counter,  only  to  seize  another  armful  of  mugs  and  repeat 
the  same  performance. 

The  drinkers  take  their  mugs  and  retreat  to  one 
of  several  dark  halls  which  adjoin  the  taproom.  Each 
hall  is  rudely  furnished  with  plain  wooden  tables  and 
benches.  If  the  newcomers  are  so  fortunate  as  to  find 
seats,  they  drink  and  smoke  their  pipes,  adding  to  the 
cloud  of  smoke,  which  gives  an  indistinct  air  to  the  hall 
and  its  inmates.  If  they  do  not  find  seats,  they  either 
wait  till  one  is  vacated,  or  retire  to  the  outside  court  of 
the  building  and  drink,  leaning  against  the  stone  wall. 

If  they  desire  more  beer,  they  wash  their  mugs  them- 
selves, and  take  their  places  again  at  the  foot  of  the 


202  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

line.  As  beer  is  only  six  cents  a  quart,  one  person  may 
drink  several  gallons  a  day  for  quite  a  small  sum. 

It  is  said  that  the  hogsheads  filled  with  beer  every 
year  in  Munich,  if  placed  side  by  side,  would  reach 
across  the  United  States  from  Boston  to  San  Francisco. 
Amazing ! 

What  story  does  the  Inn  murmur  to  the  Danube  as 
they  travel  on  together  ?  The  Inn  says :  "  I  rise  far 
away  in  the  lonely  mountains  of  the  Tyrol.  I  flow 
through  Innspruck,  'that  pearl  in  Austria's  beautiful 
crown  of  cities.'  In  that  city  is  a  wonderful  balcony  of 
gold,  built  by  Frederick  c  of  the  empty  pockets,'  who 
wished  to  show  his  people  that  his  pockets  were  not  so 
empty  after  all.  There  is  also,  in  a  dim  old  church  of 
the  city,  a  monument  to  Maximilian  I.  He  is  repre- 
sented kneeling,  while  about  him  are  grouped  his  rela- 
tives, friends,  and  favorite  heroes.  Among  the  latter  is 
a  noble  statue  of  King  Arthur  of  England,  a  very  young 
and  fair  knight. 

"  Next  I  flow  beneath  tall  crags  for  a  while.  Then 
Lombardy  poplars  draw  their  stiff  lines  around  my 
banks,  and  cornfields  and  shade  trees  dot  all  my  valley. 
So  I  flow  till  I  meet  with  you,  O  stately  Danube,  and 
henceforth  our  way  is  the  same." 

At  the  Austrian  frontier  the  mountains  draw  close  to 
the  Danube,  and  it  runs  through  a  narrow  gorge  for 
a  while.  Then  the  mountains  retreat,  and  the  river 
valley  opens  into  the  beautiful  wide  plain  on  which  is 
situated  Vienna. 

Vienna  has  been  called  the  "  Little  Paris "  and  the 
"Austrian  Paris,"  on  account  of  the  beauty  of  its  build- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  203 

ings  and  parks  and  the  gaiety  of  its  people.  The  Dan- 
ube itself  does  not  flow  through  Vienna.  It  sends  off 
a  small  branch  called  the  Danube  Canal,  which  divides 
the  city  into  two  unequal  parts.  The  smaller  section  to 
the  east  is  occupied  chiefly  by  Jews,  of  whom  there  are 
great  numbers  in  Vienna. 

Unlike  most  European  cities,  the  oldest  section  of 
Vienna  is  the  most  beautiful.  It  was  once  surrounded 
by  a  wall,  which  has  recently  been  removed.  The  space 
thus  gained  has  been  laid  out  in  a  grassy  road  two  miles 
long  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  wide,  called  the 
Ring  Strasse.  Nearly  all  the  fine  buildings  of  the  city 
—  the  palaces,  the  government  buildings,  and  the  muse- 
ums —  line  the  Ring  Strasse. 

On  each  side  of  the  palace  of  the  emperor  is  a  garden. 
One  is  used  chiefly  by  the  nobility,  the  other  by  the 
common  people.  The  latter,  which  is  known  as  the 
Volkesgarten,  is  a  very  gay  place  on  summer  evenings. 
It  is,  in  fact,  one  of  those  beer  gardens  with  which  we 
became  so  familiar  while  traveling  in  Germany. 

The  Austrians  are  Germans,  just  as  much  as  are  the 
Prussians  and  the  Bavarians.  It  only"  happened  that 
Austria  was  left  out  of  the  German  empire,  because 
Prussia  was  jealous  of  her  size  and  influence  over  the 
smaller  states.  So  you  must  not  be  surprised  at  meet- 
ing, in  the  Danube  valley,  customs  that  are  precisely 
like  those  of  the  Rhine,  the  Elbe,  and  the  Weser. 

In  the  Volkesgarten,  a  band  is  always  playing  bright 
airs  and  dance  music.  Strauss's  waltzes  are  very  popu- 
lar, among  them  being  "  Beautiful  Blue  Danube,"  which 
we  in  America  know  so  well  from  hearing  it  ground  out 


204  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

every  spring  by  the  street  organs.  Crowds  of  happy, 
well-behaved  people  sit  around  the  small  tables  with  the 
omnipresent  tankards  of  beer  before  them.  Here  is  a 
rustic  couple  having  a  cozy  little  supper  together.  They 
are  gazing  with  interest  at  a  large  cheese  which  has 
just  been  set  before  them.  The  cheese  is  flanked  with 
radishes  and  with  two  frothing  mugs  of  beer. 

Although  drinking  is  so  general,  the  traveler  rarely 
sees  any  one  intoxicated. 

During  the  summer  the  theaters  and  opera  houses 
are  open  every  night.  The  people  who  attend  the 
plays  nearly  always  have  supper  or  light  refreshments 
in  the  beer  gardens.  Every  one,  high  and  low  alike, 
frequents  them. 

There  is  no  city  in  Europe  in  which  there  is  more 
laughter  than  in  Vienna.  Life  seems  all  sparkle  and  fun. 
The  natures  of  the  Austrian  and  the  Frenchman  are 
very  much  alike.  Both  have  a  gay  temperament  and 
are  passionately  fond  of  music  and  dancing. 

The  Austrian  women  dress  with  nearly  as  much  taste 
as  the  French  women,  and  are  as  careful  housekeepers 
and  as  dainty  cooks. 

The  Austrian  women  are  very  beautiful.  They  are 
tall  and  slender,  and  form  a  marked  contrast  to  the 
Prussian  women,  who  are  short  and  stout.  The  ladies 
of  rank  are  quite  accomplished.  They  speak  several  of 
the  modern  languages,  and  are  very  skillful  with  the 
needle.  Whatever  they  learn  to  do,  from  music  or  lace 
work  to  making  a  pudding,  they  do  thoroughly  and 
well.  They  learn  to  swim,  as  a  matter  of  course  ;  it  is 
as  usual  as  to  learn  to  read. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  205 

One  of  the  interesting  places  in  Vienna  is  the  Prater. 
This  is  a  large  park  on  the  outskirts  of  the  city.  Here 
much  of  the  fashionable  driving  and  riding  takes  place. 
All  the  Austrian  women  are  fine  riders,  and  may  be 
seen  any  day  skillfully  guiding  their  horses  through  the 
crowded  driveways  of  the  Prater,  which  is  to  the  Aus- 
trians  what  Hyde  Park  is  to  the  English. 

Vienna  is  not  the  great  commercial  center  that  one 
would  suppose  it  to  be  from  its  position.  It  could  have 
become  the  chief  city  of  eastern  Europe,  if  it  had  only 
been  far-sighted  enough  to  have  opened  up  its  great 
river  to  trade.  Instead,  it  was  slow  and  dilatory ;  and 
the  result  is  that  other  cities  have  the  wealth  and 
power. 

Vienna  consoles  itself  with  the  grain  trade,  which  is 
large.  The  grain  raised  in  Hungary  is  sent  to  the 
Austrian  capital,  and  is  thence  exported  to  Russia  in 
the  east  and  Germany  in  the  northwest. 

Vienna  has  a  large  university,  and  its  medical  schools 
are  famous.  Students  flock  from  all  quarters  of  the 
globe  to  attend  the  medical  lectures  of  its  professors. 

The  apartment  system  prevails  here,  as  in  Berlin 
and  in  most  of  the  large  European  cities.  This  custom 
has  of  late  years  found  its  way  into  the  larger  cities  of 
the  United  States.  The  "  tenement  houses,"  as  they  are 
called  in  Vienna,  are  large  and  handsome,  and  are 
finely  decorated  with  painting  and  sculpture  both 
within  and  without.  Only  the  nobles  and  the  very 
wealthy  occupy  a  whole  house. 

Austria  is,  next  to  Russia,  the  largest  country  in 
Europe.  It  is  made  up  of  Austria,  Hungary,  Bohemia, 


206  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Transylvania,  Galicia,  and  several  minor  provinces. 
All  these  countries  are  ruled  by  the  emperor  of  Austria. 

His  empire  is  not  a  united  one,  as  all  the  states  hate 
and  despise  one  another.  The  dependent  states  agree, 
however,  in  hating  Austria  and  its  capital  most  bitterly. 
It  is  only  fear  of  the  mailed  hand  of  Austria  that  pre- 
vents this  patchwork  of  an  empire  from  falling  to  pieces. 
Hungary  has  its  own  money  and  its  own  postage  stamps. 
It  will  not  recognize  those  of  Austria.  Thus  it  cheats 
itself  into  thinking  it  is  free. 

A  steamer  makes  the  trip  from  Vienna  to  Buda-Pesth, 
the  capital  of  Hungary,  in  eleven  hours.  If  the  steamer 
runs  down  to  the  Black  Sea,  there  will  be  a  motley  crowd 
on  board.  There  will  be  Germans,  Hungarians,  Sclavs, 
Bulgarians,  Turks,  Greeks,  Jews,  and  perhaps  a  Russian 
or  two. 

When  it  is  remembered  that  each  person  wears  his 
own  national  dress  and  speaks  his  own  national  tongue, 
it  can  well  be  imagined  that  the  impression  made  upon 
the  traveler  is  overwhelming.  He  feels,  indeed,  that  he 
is  far  from  home.  It  seems  to  him  that  he  is  no  longer 
in  Europe,  for  all  his  surroundings  are  thoroughly  ori- 
ental. The  white  linen  robes,  the  brilliant  yellows  and 
scarlets,  the  fezzes,  the  swarthy  complexions,  the  wild 
gestures,  the  bursts  of  song,  even  the  inscriptions  in 
unknown  languages  upon  the  white  walls  of  the  steamer, 
—  all  these  increase  the  traveler's  sense  of  isolation. 

When  he  can  at  length  turn  his  attention  from  his 
immediate  surroundings  to  the  scenery,  he  finds  that  he 
is  passing  through  that  section  of  the  Danube  most  re- 
sembling the  Rhine.  There  are  the  same  bordering 


MODERN    EUROPE.  207 

mountains  and  hills,  their  slopes  decked  with  vineyards 
and  their  summits  dark  with  gray  ruins  and  ancient- 
looking  fortresses.  Monasteries  and  prisons  are  seen 
occasionally. 

Through  the  midst  of  all  this  beauty  runs  the  blue 
Danube,  about  whose  shores  so  many  charming  stories 
can  be  told.  This  ruined  wall  is  all  that  is  left  of  an 
old  Roman  fortification  that  stood  here  ages  ago.  Op- 
posite is  an  old  tower  that  has  been  besieged  and  taken 
by  the  Turks.  The  marks  of  their  cannon  balls  can  be 
plainly  seen  upon  its  ancient  walls. 

Here  we  are  at  Pressburg.  The  town  is  celebrated 
for  being  the  place  where  the  Hungarian  kings  were 
crowned.  It  was  to  Pressburg  that  Maria  Theresa  fled 
when  her  kingdom  was  being  invaded  on  all  sides. 

Her  dying  father  had  left  his  crown  to  her,  but  many 
of  the  neighboring  kings  resented  the  idea  of  Austria 
belonging  to  a  woman.  They  decided  that  her  terri- 
tory should  be  broken  up,  and  that  each  king  should 
have  some  coveted  province  for  his  own. 

Maria  Theresa  hastened  to  Pressburg  and  summoned 
a  diet,  or  parliament.  She  appeared  before  the  Hunga- 
rian nobles  with  her  infant  son  in  her  arms,  and  asked 
them  to  stand  by  her  against  the  nations  of  Europe  and 
help  her  maintain  the  rights  of  her  son.  Her  speech 
was  so  courageous  and  her  presence  so  dauntless  that 
the  rough  nobles  were  inspired.  With  one  accord,  they 
sprang  to  their  feet,  and,  drawing  their  swords,  shouted, 
"We* will  die  for  our  king,  Maria  Theresa."  You  will 
be  glad  to  know  that  the  brave  woman  succeeded  in 
maintaining  her  cause. 


208  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

As  we  approach  Buda-Pesth,  the  aspect  of  the  country 
becomes  more  ordinary.  Low  plains,  with  immense 
herds  of  cattle  feeding  upon  them,  stretch  away  to  the 
distant  mountains  011  the  horizon  line.  These  cattle  are 
the  pride  of  Hungary. 

Small  villages  dot  the  shores.  The  houses  are  painted 
yellow,  and  the  men  in  the  streets  wear  loose  white 
jackets  and  large,  white,  baggy  trousers  bordered  with 
fringe.  One  or  two  half-ruined  towns  on  the  eastern 
shore  seem  to  be  given  up  entirely  to  the  Jews.  Now 
and  then  a  bridge  of  boats  across  the  river  opens  slowly 
to  let  our  steamer  pass. 

Just  without  Buda-Pesth  are  a  cluster  of  little  water 
mills.  Each  mill  is  supported  upon  two  boats,  which 
are  fastened  together  and  moored  in  mid  stream,  so  that 
the  full  force  of  the  current  can  act  on  the  wheel.  The 
larger  boat  contains  the  mill  and  house  of  the  miller 
and  his  family.  The  second  boat  serves  as  a  support  to 
the  shaft  on  which  the  wheel  is  set.  Throughout  the 
remaining  course  of  the  Danube  these  groups  of  mills 
are  a  common  sight. 

There  were  once  two  cities  lying  on  opposite  sides  of 
the  Danube.  That  on  the  western  side  was  known  as 
Buda.  Its  neighbor  was  Pesth.  Now  the  cities  are 
united  and  are  known  as  Buda-Pesth. 

The  shores  are  joined  by  many  graceful  bridges, 
while  busy  steamboats  ply  to  and  fro  between  the  two 
towns.  The  most  noticeable  of  the  bridges  is  a  suspen- 
sion bridge  thirteen  hundred  feet  in  length.  At  each 
end  is  a  huge  stone  lion. 

A  young  sculptor  toiled  over  them  day  by  day.     He 


MODERN    EUROPE.  209 

hoped  to  make  a  name  for  himself  by  carving  them  per- 
fectly. At  last  the  work  was  done.  The  great  day 
came  when  they  were  to  be  presented  to  the  citizens. 
The  people  filled  the  streets  and  squares  near  the  bridge. 
The  young  sculptor  was  near  by.  The  coverings  were 
removed  and  the  wonderfully  life-like  animals  stood 
revealed.  The  citizens  uttered  a  great  cry  of  admira- 
tion. The  sculptor's  heart  seemed  lifted  up  to  heaven 
upon  their  voices.  Suddenly  some  one  said,  . "  They 
have  no  tongues  ! "  and  the  fickle  crowd  repeated  the 
words.  The  sculptor  was  heartbroken,  and  that  night, 
so  the  story  goes,  the  foolish  youth  drowned  himself  in 
the  Danube. 

Pesth  is  the  larger  of  the  twin  cities.  It  contains  the 
shops  and  the  government  buildings,  while  Buda  has 
the  palace  and  the  fortress. 

Pesth  has  a  most  beautiful  line  of  quays  extending 
for  three  miles  along  the  river.  Its  streets  are  wide 
and  well  paved  with  asphalt.  As  in  Berlin,  the  horses 
slip  and  rise  again  continually.  The  houses  are  square, 
solid,  and  substantial.  It  is,  a  surprise  to  find  such  a 
magnificent  city  in  a  country  that  has  often  been  repre- 
sented as  half  savage. 

The  shops  have  signs  written  in  both  Hungarian  and 
German.  They  also  have  pictures  painted  upon  them 
to  distinguish  them  from  one  another.  The  pictures, 
however,  never  seem  to  bear  any  relation  to  the  articles 
for  sale  within. 

Here  is  a  picture  of  a  peasant  girl  in  Hungarian  dress, 
with  staring  blue  eyes  and  gleaming  yellow  hair.  She 
carries  a  shepherd's  crook  in  her  hand.  The  dingy 


210  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

little  shop  beneath  the  gaudy  sign  is  known  as  the 
"Beautiful  Shepherdess,"  and  there  you  buy  candy. 
There  may  be  some  appropriateness  in  purchasing  gloves 
of  "  The  Bride,"  for  we  should  expect  her  to  have  laid 
in  a  good  supply  in  consideration  of  her  coming  wed- 
ding; but  why  the  "White  Cat"  should  furnish  us  with 
cigars,  or  the  "Huntsman"  with  tooth  powder  is  an 
unanswered  question. 

The  people  on  the  streets  are  as  varied  in  character 
as  were  those  we  saw  on  the  river  steamboat.  It  seems 
as  if  representatives  from  every  nation  in  eastern  Europe 
and  western  Asia  had  come  to  Buda-Pesth.  One  writer 
says:  "I  have  sat  in  a  Turkish  tavern  between  a  German 
and  a  Hungarian,  opposite  a  Sclav  and  a  Bohemian, 
with  a  Turk  at  the  head  of  the  table  and  a  Frenchman 
at  the  foot,  while  a  swarthy  Gypsy  played  the  cymbals 
near  by,  and  the  waiter  was  a  Russian." 

The  Gypsies  are  a  strange  people.  They  are  terribly 
dirty,  yet  even  their  rags  have  an  air  of  picturesque- 
ness  and  forlorn  dignity.  Although  great  rogues,  they 
often  appear  like  angels  of  light.  The  straight,  severe 
lines  of  their  dark,  thin  faces  are  most  attractive,  and 
their  large,  dark,  sad  eyes  rarely  fail  to  awaken  pity  in 
the  hearts  of  all  who  see  them. 

They  are  wonderful  musicians,  and  play  entirely  from 
ear.  When  a  party  of  Hungarians  can  engage  a  Gypsy 
to  play  dance  music  for  them,  they  are  perfectly  happy. 
The  music  alternately  wails,  and  rises  triumphantly. 
It  is  very  sad,  yet  beautiful.  The  Hungarian  acknowl- 
edges that,  even  when  he  is  dancing  to  this  music,  he 
feels  like  weeping. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  211 

Some  one  has  said  of  the  natives  of  Great  Britain, 
"  The  English  take  their  pleasures  soberly."  We  might 
add,  "  The  Hungarian  amuses  himself  weeping." 

Hungarians  are  acknowledged  to  be  the  handsomest 
men  in  Europe.  If  a  citizen  of  Buda-Pesth  appears  like 
a  poet  or  a  hero  in  his  ordinary  dress,  what  must  a  noble 
seem  when  dressed  in  his  silk  and  velvet  robes  of  state, 
with  rosettes,  girdle,  and  long  boots  decorated  with 
jewels ! 

There  are  one  or  two  pretty  customs  prevailing  in 
Hungary  that  we  cannot  fail  to  notice.  After  each 
meal,  the  gentlemen  of  the  household  kiss  their  wives 
and  mothers  upon  the  forehead  and  the  cheek.  If  any 
lady  guest  is  present,  they  kiss  her  hand. 

A  common  salutation  of  the  country  is,  "  I  kiss  your 
hand,  gracious  lady."  As  the  conductors  of  the  street 
cars  and  the  shopkeepers  say  this  on  all  occasions,  one 
may  be  glad  that  their  words  are  not  always  literally 
true.  But  very  often  it  happens  that  the  action  is 
suited  to  the  word. 

The  scenery  of  the  lower  Danube  is  somewhat  monot- 
onous. The  river,  flowing  now  through  a  vast  plain, 
has  shores  only  a  foot  or  so  above  its  surface.  Its 
waters  are  of  a  yellowish  color,  owing  to  its  having 
washed  away  much  soil  from  its  low  and  crumbly  banks. 
Thickets  of  willow  and  forests  of  dull  green  poplars 
line  the  shores,  and  stretch  away  over  the  vast  plain  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 

At  rare  intervals  a  village  appears.  The  background 
consists  of  white  and  yellow  houses,  and  a  blue,  red,  or 
dazzling  white  church.  The  foreground  is  generally  a 


212  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

forlorn  group  of  pigs,  geese,  oxen,  children,  and  washer- 
women, who  seem  to  have  assembled  to  look  at  the 
passing  steamer.  Such  is  the  scenery  till  Servia  is 
entered,  and  its  capital,  Belgrade,  is  passed. 

Then  there  is  a  marked  change.  For  a  short  distance 
the  river  runs  through  gorges  so  steep  and  so  varied  in 
position  that  again  and  again  it  seems  as  if  the  steamer 
were  going  to  run  aground.  In  this  region  are  the 
"  Iron  Gates."  The  name  sounds  very  grand,  and  as  if 
some  terrible  pass  on  the  river  were  to  be  approached. 
But  the  Iron  Gates  are  only  a  few  small  rocks  in  mid 
stream,  which  cause  some  insignificant  eddies  in  the  on- 
ward moving  Danube. 

Again  the  surroundings  become  uninteresting.  Pop- 
lars reappear,  and  the  few  towns  become  even  dirtier 
and  more  oriental  looking.  Minarets  and  mosques  ap- 
pear, and  the  people  in  the  streets  wear  fezzes.  We  are 
now  passing  through  the  freed  provinces,  where  only  a 
short  time  ago  the  Turk  reigned  supreme. 

The  Danube  enters  the  Black  Sea  through  three 
mouths.  The  northern  mouth  is  the  largest,  but  the 
southern  one  is  more  adapted  to  trade.  The  delta  con- 
sists of  desolate  marshes  and  fens.  Some  years  ago  a 
corporation  started  to  improve  the  Danube.  They  com- 
menced operations  on  the  delta  in  a  very  promising 
manner;  but  international  difficulties  delayed  and  at 
last  stopped  the  work. 

The  Danube  has  a  great  future  before  it ;  but  as  yet 
its  commercial  importance  is  far  inferior  to  that  of 
the  Rhine,  or  indeed  to  many  other  rivers  in  western 
Europe, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  213 

CHAPTER  XII. 

GERMAN  PEASANT  LIFE. 

We  have  wandered  through  several  of  the  German 
cities,  observing  many  sights  and  sounds  of  life  in  a 
crowd.  Now  shall  we  turn  into  the  country,  and  be- 
come acquainted  with  the  peasants  and  their  ways  ? 

Let  us  first  go  to  the  Tyrol.  That  is  an  Austrian 
province,  one-third  of  which  consists  of  mountain  peaks 
and  glaciers.  Many  mountain  chains  surround  the  val- 
leys and  separate  the  villages  one  from  another.  It 
happens,  therefore,  that  the  villagers  see  almost  nothing 
of  people  outside  their  own  small  circle.  Their  habits 
become  fixed,  and  remain  the  same  from  generation  to 
generation.  They  are,  on  that  account,  only  more  in- 
teresting, as  we  shall  see. 

We  are  now  entering  a  remote  little  village.  A  swift 
stream  chatters  down  the  mountain  valley,  turning  a 
rude  millwheel  halfway  up  the  hillside.  A  single  street 
runs  parallel  with  the  stream,  and  houses  are  scattered 
irregularly  along  its  sides.  These  houses  are  mostly  of 
wood,  though  here  and  there  is  one  built  of  stone. 

The  wooden  houses  are  brightly  painted,  and  often 
have  a  frieze  of  colored  plaster  running  around  the 
walls.  Virgins  or  other  religious  figures  are  painted  on 
each  side  of  the  door.  Quaint  little  balconies  jut  out 
on  all  sides,  sometimes  overhanging  the  brook.  Fish 
nets  are  often  spread  out  upon  them  to  dry,  and  plump 
feather  mattresses  are  left  here  throughout  the  whole 
day. 


214  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Perhaps  it  is  this  daily  sunning  which  makes  the  Ger- 
man beds  so  luxurious.  Dr.  Hale  has  said,  "  Sleeping 
in  a  German  bed  is  like  being  in  the  middle  of  a  char- 
lotte russe  with  white  of  egg  on  top." 

The  peasants  of  this  village  are  very  hard-working- 
people.  From  early  dawn  to  sunset  they  toil  persist- 
ently on  their  rough  hillside  farms.  The  women  work 
side  by  side  with  the  men,  doing  quite  as  rough  and 
heavy  tasks.  They  become  very  strong  and  muscular, 
and  their  faces,  only  partially  shaded  by  their  coarse 
straw  hats,  are  the  color  of  bronze. 

By  constant  toil  and  persistent  saving,  many  of  these 
peasants  have  become  well-to-do.  But  they  make  no 
change  in  their  style  of  living  or  working.  A  rich 
peasant  may  invest  his  savings  in  cattle  which,  during 
five  months  of  the  year,  feed  upon  his  alp,  or  mountain 
pasture. 

You  must  not  imagine  the  alp  as  a  level  plateau.  It 
is  just  the  steep  top  of  a  mountain,  sometimes  but 
sparsely  covered  with  grass. 

It  is  a  difficult  climb  up  the  alp.  Now  the  way  is  up 
steep  steps  cut  in  the  solid  rock,  now  over  slippery 
mud  and  moss,  and  now  up  rude  roads  of  logs,  which 
are  used  when  lumber  is  to  be  carted  down  the  moun- 
tain. With  weary  limbs  and  panting  breath  we  at  last 
reach  the  summit.  Oh  !  how  delicious  is  the  air !  And 
the  view,  how  wide  and  wonderful ! 

Billows  of  mountains  and  hills  surround  the  alp  on 
every  side.  Some  mountains  are  clear  and  sharply  blue. 
Others  are  partially  wrapped  in  mist,  which,  rising  from 
the  valleys,  floats  dreamily  about  the  bald  heads  of  the 


MODERN    EUROPE  215 

soaring  mountains.  Just  where  the  dark  green  forest 
that  clothes  the  nearest  hill  ceases  and  the  cold  gray 
rocks  begin,  stands  a  solitary  pine.  All  its  branches 
have  been  cut  away,  except  two  near  the  top,  which 
make  the  tree  into  a  dark  cross,  as  was  the  woodcutter's 
intention.  The  peasants  are  accustomed  to  make  such 
rude  crosses  in  wild  and  lonely  places  throughout  the 
Tyrol,  and  the  effect  is  nearly  always  very  striking  and 
grand.  Far  away  we  can  just  distinguish  a  herd  of 
chamois,  skipping  along  on  the  edge  of  a  precipice. 

A  tiny  chalet,  or  hut,  is  built  in  a  sheltered  nook  on 
the  summit  of  the  alp.  Its  lower  story  is  of  stone, 
while  the  upper  one  is  of  wood,  with  a  broad  roof  stretch- 
ing far  beyond  the  walls  at  the  side  and  also  covering 
the  cow  house  at  the  back.  Great  stones  are  placed 
upon  the  roof  to  prevent  its  being  carried  away  by  vio- 
lent storms. 

Here  the  daughter  of  the  house  passes  the  summer 
with  a  dairymaid  or  two  to  help  her  in  her  work.  This 
custom  is  the  same  in  Norway,  you  may  remember. 

The  cows  have  great  freedom.  They  are  allowed  to 
roam  all  over  the  hillside,  and  to  return  to  the  stable 
when  they  please.  Sometimes  in  the  very  hottest 
weather  they  return  to  the  shelter  of  the  cow  shed  by 
day ;  but  most  of  the  time  they  are  on  the  alp,  and  the 
far-away  noise  of  the  large  bells  hung  about  their  necks 
is  the  only  sound  of  life  on  the  hillside. 

At  dusk  the  dairymaid,  who  has  been  busy  with  her 
butter  and  cheeses  all  day,  steps  to  the  door  of  the  hut 
and  gives  her  call,  or  yodel.  Then  from  all  sides  comes 
the  musical  tinkle  of  the  copper  cow-bells.  Louder 


216  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

and  louder  it  grows,  until  the  gentle  creatures  enter  the 
shed  to  be  milked. 

Saturday  evening  the  village  youths  come  up  the  alps 
to  see  the  girls.  Then  there  is  generally  a  little  music 
and  dancing  to  close  the  hard  week's  work.  In  the 
early  twilight,  the  girls  hear  the  yodeling  of  the  young 
men  far  away  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain.  A  yodel  is 
deafening  close  at  hand.  It  is  merely  a  wild  shriek. 
But  at  a  distance  the  call  sounds  very  sweet  as  it 
echoes  and  re-echoes  among  the  lofty  hills. 

The  girls  are  looking  their  best  this  evening.  They 
wear  short,  bright  skirts,  velvet  bodices,  and  full  white 
sleeves.  Each  has  several  silver  necklaces  wound  about 
her  throat,  and  perhaps  a  few  delicate  alpine  flowers 
in  her  hair.  The  white,  star-like  edelweiss  and  the 
alpine  roses  grow  in  abundance  beneath  a  sheltering 
rock  not  far  from  the  chalet.  So  Rosel  and  Genevra 
can  select  what  they  please. 

Their  visitors  are  from  the  village  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill.  The  young  people  have  gone  to  school  together, 
and  have  known  one  another  all  their  lives ;  so  they  pass 
a  very  pleasant,  sociable  evening  in  the  open  air,  danc- 
ing on  the  short  grass  to  the  flute  or  the  zither,  or  per- 
haps listening  to  the  distant  sound  of  a  Tyrolese  horn. 

Most  of  the  Tyrolese  youths  are  hunters.  The  dress 
of  the  hunter  is  very  picturesque.  It  consists  of  a  dark 
green  jacket  with  silver  buttons,  tight  black  knicker- 
bockers bordered  with  green  cord,  coarse  gray  stockings 
which  are  without  feet,  and  rough  hobnailed  shoes. 
The  trousers  are  so  short  that  the  knees  are  left  bare, 
giving  the  hunter  a  little  the  appearance  of  a  Scotch 
Highlander, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  217 

The  hunter's  hat  is  of  black  felt  or  black  straw,  and 
there  is  always  a  bunch  of  feathers  from  the  black 
grouse,  or  a  chamois's  beard  fastened  jauntily  at  the 
back  of  the  high  crown.  Peasants  wear  bunches  of 
artificial  flowers  or  clusters  of  real  edelweiss  on  their 
hats,  but  the  hunter  despises  such  decoration.  With 
his  powderhorn  and  gun,  and  this  costume,  which  sets 
off  his  strong,  muscular  figure  to  great  advantage,  he  is 
a  person  to  be  much  admired. 

He  hunts  the  chamois  and  the  black  grouse,  game 
very  difficult  to  pursue.  The  forests  are  protected  by 
game  laws,  and  only  the  nobles  and  their  guests  are 
allowed  to  shoot  the  deer  which  range  through  them. 
It  is  hard  for  a  skillful  sportsman  to  let  a  deer  go  by  him. 
Sometimes  the  temptation  becomes  too  strong,  and  he 
breaks  the  law  by  killing  the  deer.  This  act  makes 
him  a  poacher,  or  "  wild  hunter,"  as  he  is  called  in  the 
Tyrol. 

Sometimes  several  wild  hunters  organize  a  moonlight 
hunt  into  the  forest  of  some  neighboring  count  or  baron. 
They  disguise  themselves  by  blacking  their  faces  and 
by  wearing  false  beards.  The  forests  are  in  charge  of 
foresters;  and  if  the  two  parties  meet,  a  fight  may  fol- 
low. Shots  are  fired,  and  often  wild  hunters  and  forest- 
ers are  killed.  If  a  wild  hunter  is  recognized,  he  may 
be  imprisoned  on  his  return  to  his  village  home.  There 
is  great  danger  in  these  hunts,  which  on  that  account 
are  most  attractive  to  a  certain  class  of  young  men. 

The  borderland  between  Bavaria  and  the  Tyrol  is 
especially  subject  to  such  poaching  expeditions,  as  deer 
can  be  hunted  from  one  province  into  the  other  and 


218  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

there  slain.  There  are  many  iron  crosses  on  the  hill- 
side, showing  where  foresters  or  wild  hunters  have  met 
their  death  in  the  darkness. 

These  German  peasants  are  devout  Catholics.  Every 
morning  they  spend  a  short  time  at  mass  before  going 
to  their  day's  work.  The  roads  throughout  Germany 
are  dotted  with  crosses,  shrines,  and  images  of  Christ  or 
the  Virgin.  The  shrines  to  the  Virgin  are  generally 
wreathed  with  fresh  flowers. 

One  development  of  their  religion  is  the  play  that  is 
acted  every  ten  years  at  the  small  Bavarian  village  of 
Ober  Ammergau.  The  village  was  once  smitten  with 
a  plague.  The  peasants  vowed  that  they  would  act  the 
suffering  and  death  of  our  Lord  every  ten  years,  if  only 
the  plague  might  be  taken  away.  Their  prayer  was 
granted,  and  the  villagers  have  kept  their  vow  to  this 
day. 

Strange  as  the  custom  may  seem  to  Americans,  the 
peasants  enter  into  it  with  the  utmost  devotion.  Those 
chosen  to  take  part,  for  years  before  they  act  in  the 
sacred  play,  try  to  live  as  holy  and  pure  lives  as  did  the 
characters  whom  they  are  to  represent.  The  play  has 
become  well  known  ;  and  when  the  time  for  its  repre- 
sentation comes  round,  the  peasants  find  in  their  audi- 
ence travelers  from  all  quarters  of  the  globe. 

Bavaria  adjoins  the  Tyrol  on  the  north.  The  dress 
of  the  Bavarians  and  their  manner  of  living  are  very 
nearly  the  same  as  those  of  the  Tyrolese.  But  the 
people  themselves  are  quite  different.  The  Bavarians 
are  a  richer,  merrier  set  of  people  than  the  Tyrolese, 
and  they  are  not  nearly  so  handsome. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  219 

There  are  two  other  regions  in  Germany  where  the 
rural  life  differs,  to  a  certain  extent,  from  what  has 
already  been  described.  They  are  the  regions  of  the 
Black  Forest  and  the  Hartz  Mountains. 

The  Black  Forest  stretches  for  many  miles  through 
Baden  and  Wurtemberg,  provinces  lying  to  the  west  of 
Bavaria.  A  portion  of  it  is  very  dark  and  gloomy. 
The  dull  green  pines  cast  dark  shadows  over  the 
ground  ;  there  is  no  sound  of  life,  —  not  even  the  cry  of 
a  bird  is  heard;  while  the  still  lakes  are  without  fish. 
The  loneliness  makes  one  shiver.  It  is  no  wonder 
that  many  weird  stories  of  goblins  and  giants  cluster 
around  this  part  of  the  Black  Forest. 

There  are  other  places  in  the  Forest  which  are  a  com- 
plete contrast  to  this,  —  places  where  the  sun  shines  all 
day  in  lovely  slanting  lines,  casting  dancing  shadows  on 
the  fine,  green,  velvety  turf.  The  birds  sing,  and  the 
fish  swim  around  in  the  beautiful  glassy  pools.  These 
are  the  haunts  of  the  fairies  and  all  the  lovely  and  del- 
icate sprites  of  the  water  and  the  wood. 

The  peasants  of  the  Black  Forest  are  like  all  Ger- 
mans in  being  hard-working  people  who;  through  their 
own  honest  efforts,  have  become  quite  prosperous.  In 
summer  both  men  and  women  are  employed  from  morn- 
ing to  night  in  farm  work.  In  the  winter  the  men  are 
engaged  in  lumbering. 

They  cut  down  the  immense  pines,  and  drag  them 
across  the  snow  on  rude  sledges  to  some  tributary  of  the 
Rhine.  They  are  left  until  the  spring,  when  a  dozen 
or  more  logs  are  lashed  into  a  raft,  which  floats  down 
the  Rhine,  as  we  have  seen. 


220  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

It  is  the  woodcutters  who  people  the  forest  shades 
with  uncanny  creatures.  There  is  one  gnome  named 
Michael  who  sets  his  mark  on  certain  trees.  Such  a  tree 
brings  misfortune,  they  say,  wherever  it  goes.  If  it  is 
used  as  the  mast  of  a  ship,  the  ship  is  lost  at  sea.  If  it 
forms  a  part  of  a  building,  the  building  is  burnt  or  de- 
stroyed in  some  way. 

The  leisure  of  the  peasants  throughout  Germany  and 
the  Tyrol  is  spent  in  wood-carving.  They  carve  sacred 
figures  and  other  decorations  for  the  churches,  and  toys. 
Often  they  acquire  considerable  skill.  The  Virgins 
and  Saviours  are  quite  well  done,  and  the  little  wooden 
animals  have  a  lifelike  air  that  is  charming. 

It  frequently  comes  to  pass  that  one  family  in  a  vil- 
lage carves  all  the  dogs.  The  great-grandfather  first 
learned  to  carve  them,  and  the  succeeding  generations 
have  carved  dogs  and  nothing  but  dogs.  Even  the 
small  urchin,  toddling  home  from  school,  on  his  arrival 
takes  a  soft  piece  of  wood  and  a  jackknife  and  falls 
to  work.  All  the  children  have  their  stints.  Another 
family  will  have  the  monopoly  of  sheep,  and  so  on. 

These  toys  are  famous  the  world  over.  Some  of 
the  large  Swiss  cities  have  started  toy  manufactories. 
Much  of  the  carving  is  now  done  by  machinery,  the 
peasants  putting  on  only  the  finishing  touches  with 
their  own  hands.  Huge  boxes  marked  Spain,  Brazil, 
and  perhaps  Sydney,  are  weekly  despatched  from  these 
regions.  The  peasants  are  poorly  paid  for  their  work, 
but  a  little  goes  a  great  way  with  them. 

The  women  earn  small  sums  by  plaiting  straw  bon- 
nets, the  straw  for  which  is  sent  them  from  Italy.  The 


MODERN    EUROPE.  221 

whole  family  unite  in  training  birds  to  sing  or  whistle. 
The  bulfinch  is  especially  teachable. 

A  number  of  little  cages  are  hung  in  a  sunny  window 
in  which  the  scarlet  and  black  birds  hop  gayly  about. 
Many  times  a  day  the  peasant  or  his  children  play  the 
same  tune  upon  the  violin.  Day  after  day  the  lesson  is 
given.  Weeks  pass,  and  at  last  the  birds  begin  to  show 
signs  of  intelligence  and  recognition  when  the  tune  is 
played.  Finally  they  begin  to  whistle  the  air  them- 
selves. When  they  have  thoroughly  learned  their 
lesson,  they  are  taken  to  the  neighboring  town  and  sold 
for  a  small  sum.  Thus  the  stocking,  which  serves  as 
the  family  bank,  grows  heavier. 

The  Hartz  Mountains  are  a  lofty,  lonely  range  of 
hills  situated  in  northern  Germany.  The  people  who 
live  among  them  are  mostly  miners,  turf  cutters,  and 
charcoal  burners.  The  women  make  fine  lace. 

In  the  long  winter  evenings  the  children,  clustering 
about  the  bright  fire,  beg  their  elders  to  tell  them  stories 
of  the  Hartz  Mountains.  Then,  if  the  elders  consent,  a 
number  of  most  curious  stories  are  told  concerning  the 
giants,  fairies,  and  goblins  that  haunt  the  magic  moun- 
tains. 

There  is  one  very  terrible  story  about  the  witches' 
ring  on  the  mountain  side.  'Tis  said  that  on  the  eve  of 
the  first  of  May,  just  as  the  clock  strikes  twelve,  there  is 
a  sound  of  hissing  and  whining,  and  all  the  witches  and 
wizards  of  Germany  —  of  whom  there  are  many  —  come 
riding  on  their  brooms  to  the  Hartz.  There  they  dis- 
mount and  dance  in  a  circle  by  the  light  of  the  moon. 
When  they  have  danced  to  their  hearts'  content,  they 


222  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

partake  of  the  generous  supper  which  their  black  cats 

have  been  preparing  meanwhile. 

"If  you  do  not  be- 
lieve this  story,"  the 
grandfather  concludes, 
"  you  may  go  to  the 
blasted  pine  in  the  for- 
est, and  there  you  will 
see  the  prints  of  the 
witches'  feet  in  stone." 
This  is  awful !  Flaxen- 
haired  Gretchen  draws 
nearer  to  her  stout 
brother  Karl,  and  even 
that  sturdy  ui'chin 
glances  uneasily  over 
his  shoulder  at  the 
shadowy  corners  of  the 
room.  The  dark  pines 
toss  their  branches  in 
a  ghostly  manner  be- 
yond the  tiny  window. 
Hear  them  sigh  !  It  is 
a  long  mile  to  the 
blasted  pine,  and  even 
though  it  is  December, 
and  the  mild  May  night 
of  their  revels  is  five 
months  away,  he  would 
not  dare  to  go  to-night. 
Not  he ! 


GRETCHEN    AND    KARL. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  223 

But  listen !  for  the  grandmother  has  begun  the  tale 
of  the  giant  of  the  mountain.  The  giant  appeal's  to 
have  been  thirty  or  forty  feet  high,  and  was  no 
phantom,  "like  those  of  your  grandfather's  stories, 
iny  dears,"  chirps  the  old  lady,  knitting  steadily  the 
while,  "  for  he  was  seen  of  the  whole  village,  including 
myself."  And  so  story  follows  story  the  long  evening 
through. 

There  is  real  truth  in  this  last  tale.  When  the  sun 
is  on  one  side  of  a  mountain,  and  a  cloud  of  mist  on  the 
other,  a  greatly  enlarged  shadow  of  any  one  on  the  sum- 
mit is  thrown  upon  the  mist.  The  sudden  appearance 
of  such  a  mighty  figure  darkening  the  sky  is  awful, 
especially  to  the  peasants  who  are  ignorant  of  the 
cause. 

The  Hungarian  peasants  do  not  seem  as  attractive  as 
those  whom  we  have  been  observing.  Their  great  fault 
is  that  they  are  not  clean.  In  this  respect  they  form  a 
marked  contrast  to  the  more  northern  Germans,  who  are 
delicately,  almost  religiously  clean. 

A  Hungarian  village  has  one  central  street,  which  is 
muddy  one  half  of  the  year,  and  dusty  the  other.  The 
street  is  usually  populated  by  herds  of  wandering  geese, 
droves  of  pigs  or  goats,  and  scantily  dressed  children. 

The  houses  bordering  the  way  have  their  gables  turned 
to  the  street.  The  door  is  narrow  and  the  windows 
tiny.  The  knot  holes  of  the  second  story  are  stuffed 
with  straw.  The  thatched  roof  overhangs  one  side  of 
the  house.  Beneath  this  projecting  roof  is  a  brick  wralk, 
where  rude  benches  are  placed,  looking  out  on  the  un- 
tidy yard,  with  its  jumble  of  mammoth  sunflowers  and 


224  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

• 

brilliant  poppies.  I  suppose  this  brick  walk  answers 
for  a  piazza. 

The  chief  room  has  brightly  painted  walls  and  an 
earthen  floor.  On  the  four  walls  of  the  room,  just  below 
the  ceiling,  hang  jars  of  coarse  pottery.  The  furniture 
comprises  a  stove,  a  pile  of  bedding  heaped  in  one  cor- 
ner, and  a  few  tables  and  stools,  painted  with  huge 
roses  and  poppies  on  a  striped  background. 

The  owner  of  this  mansion  we  find  seated  on  a  bench 
before  his  door.  He  is  smoking  a  long  slender  pipe 
with  its  bowl  decorated  with  bells.  His  dress  of  white 
cotton  is  at  its  best  on  Sundays  and  holidays.  Other 
days  of  the  week  it  appears  somewhat  grimy.  There 
are  two  garments,  —  the  shirt,  which  is  gathered  about 
the  neck  by  a  string,  and  the  trousers.  These  are  so 
full  and  baggy  as  to  seem  much  like  petticoats.  This 
effect  is  increased  by  their  trimming  of  fringe. 

Over  the  white  linen,  the  upper  class  of  peasants  wear 
a  suit  of  blue  cloth. 

The  dress  of  the  peasant  woman  resembles  that  of  her 
Tyrolese  sister.  It  consists  of  the  usual  bright  skirt, 
yoked  white  waist,  and  dark  bodice  ornamented  with 
many  buttons  and  much  silver  cord.  Her  boots  are  of 
stout  black  leather  trimmed  with  red  kid.  Her  hair  is 
gathered  into  one  long  braid,  fastened  with  bright  rib- 
bons which  reach  to  the  ankles.  If  married,  she  invari- 
ably wears  a  small  cap  upon  her  head. 

These  poor  women  are  the  great  burden  bearers  in 
Austria.  They  work  harder  even  than  the  horses  and 
donkeys,  and  consequently  their  lives  are  exceedingly 
wretched. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  225 

Although  the  majority  of  the  Hungarian  peasants  are 
farmers,  yet  many  of  them  are  employed  as  herdsmen 
to  tend  the  cattle  roaming  over  the  great  plains  of  cen- 
tral Hungary. 


CHAPTER   XIII. 
AMONG  MOUNTAIN  PEAKS   AND   GLACIERS. 

In  the  very  heart  of  Europe  lies  the  little  republic  of 
Switzerland.  It  is  no  larger  than  our  State  of  Illinois, 
yet  it  contains  the  finest  scenery  in  Europe.  The  tall- 
est mountains  and  the  most  beautiful  lakes  are  here. 
Here  rise  two  of  the  noblest  rivers  of  the  continent,  the 
Rhine  and  the  Rhone.  And  here  we  find  glorious  sun- 
rises and  sunsets,  which  make  mountain  life  so  beauti- 
ful, as  well  as  glaciers  and  avalanches  and  all  that  make 
it  terrible. 

I  used  to  think  the  map  of  Switzerland  a  confused 
tangle  of  mountains,  rivers,  lakes,  and  glaciers.  Do  you 
remember  the  old  Greek  labyrinth  on  the  island  of 
Crete  ?  It  was  a  most  curious  building,  consisting  of 
hundreds  of  rooms  and  passages,  that  led  from  one  an- 
other in  the  most  confusing  way.  As  soon  as  one 
passed  out  of  sight  of  daylight,  he  was  lost.  There  AMIS 
one  prince  who  made  his  way  safely  through  the  pas- 
sages of  the  labyrinth,  because  he  held  a  guiding  thread. 

Switzerland  is  just  such  a  labyrinth.  I  was  once  lost 
in  its  confusing  hills  and  valleys,  bat  I  have  found  the 
thread  of  the  labyrinth,  which  I  will  give  to  you. 


226  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Imagine  two  deep  trenches,  or  mountain  valleys,  one 
running  toward  the  southwest,  the  other  to  the  north- 
east. The  Rhone  drains  the  valley  at  the  southwest ; 
the  Rhine,  that  to  the  northeast.  Both  these  mountain 
valleys  are  bounded  on  the  north  and  south  by  two 
mountain  ranges.  The  more  lofty  range  is  on  the 
south ;  the  lower  range,  on  the  north.  Beyond  the 
northern  range  two  plains  stretch  away  to  the  northern 
boundary  of  Switzerland. 

Two  mountain  valleys,  two  ranges,  and  two  plains,  — r- 
that  is  the  clue  to  Switzerland.  The  many  small  spurs 
of  mountains  which  break  up  its  surface  will  all  be 
found  to  be  offshoots  of  these  two  main  ranges.  Most 
of  the  little  streams  and  all  the  innumerable  tiny  lakes 
will  be  found  to  be  connected  with  either  the  Rhine  or 
the  Rhone. 

There  are  four  noted  clusters  of  mountains  that  we 
must  visit  while  in  Switzerland.  They  are  the  peaks 
around  Zermatt,  the  mountains  of  the  Bernese  Ober- 
land,  the  mountains  of  Lake  Lucerne,  and  the  Mont 
Blanc  group.  And  first  we  will  go  to  Zermatt. 

One  of  the  tributaries  to  the  Rhone  from  the  south  is 
the  Visp.  Zermatt  is  situated  in  a  mountain  valley  on 
the  Visp,  some  twenty-five  miles  from  its  mouth.  The 
way  to  Zermatt  is  somewhat  difficult.  Part  of  the 
time  the  traveler  rides  muleback ;  the  remaining  dis- 
tance he  accomplishes  in  a  rough  mountain  wagon. 
When  once  Zermatt  is  reached,  the  traveler  is  perfectly 
content,  for  he  is  surrounded  on  all  sides  by  lofty  hills 
and  mountains. 

Let  us  begin  our  training  for  mountain  climbing  by 


MODERN    EUROPE.  227 

ascending  this  high  hill  to  the  east  of  Zermatt.  Its 
lower  slopes  are  covered  with  thrifty  vineyards  and 
farms.  Some  of  the  farms  raise  hay  alone ;  others  pro- 
duce fruits. 

There  is  very  little  level  land  in  Switzerland.  The 
peasants  are  obliged  to  make  the  most  of  every  hillside. 
The  result  is  that  each  little  rough  farm  is  as  green  as 
a  garden,  owing  to  the  devoted  care  of  its  owners. 

We  notice  women  in  the  fields  working  side  by  side 
with  the  men.  They  are  exceedingly  tall  and  muscular. 
Their  faces  are  deeply  sunburned  beneath  their  coarse 
straw  hats.  They  use  the  heavy,  old-fashioned  shovel 
and  pitchfork  with  as  much  ease  and  skill  as  the  men. 

Leaving  the  farms,  we  enter  a  forest  which  covers 
about  one-third  of  the  mountain.  Here  are  fine  large 
oaks,  beeches,  birches,  and  beautiful  spreading  chestnuts 
with  their  bright  leaves  and  clusters  of  fruit.  Beyond 
these  the  trees  are  evergreens.  We  walk  through  shady 
aisles  of  fir  and  pine,  while  here  and  there  the  swaying 
branches  of  a  graceful  larch  droop  beside  a  sturdy 
spruce. 

At  length  the  forest  trees  grow  less  dense,  and  we 
enter  the  breezy  uplands.  Here  are  the  mountain  past- 
ures. Several  black  and  white  cows  loiter  past,  gazing 
first  at  us  and  then  away  toward  the  distant  mountains, 
with  the  same  meditative  expression.  If  they  could 
speak,  they  would  say  that  these  months  on  the  moun- 
tain are  the  happiest  of  their  lives,  for  nowhere  else  is 
the  grass  so  short,  so  sweet,  or  so  nourishing. 

We  follow  a  rough  little  path  that  leads,  as  we  sup- 
pose, to  the  chalet,  or  hut,  of  the  cowherd.  All  around 


228  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

we  notice  flowers  remarkable  for  their  beauty  of  color- 
ing and  delicacy  of  shape.  Here  are  beds  of  alpine 
roses,  which  are  not  wild  roses,  as  you  might  suppose, 
but  a  kind  of  rhododendron  of  a  royal  red-purple. 
Beyond  grow  blue  gentians,  harebells,  purple  pansies, 
and  violets ;  and,  if  you  look  carefully,  you  may  per- 
haps find  the  exquisite  pink  forget-me-not.  Blossoms 
like  our  dandelions  and  buttercups  nod  their  heads 
daintily  in  the  fresh  breeze. 

The  chalet  is  a  low,  broad  building  with  a  roof  so 
wide  and  spreading  that  it  .looks  like  the  top  of  a  mush- 
room. Great  rocks  keep  the  roof  from  being  blown 
away  by  the  winter  gales.  There  are  many  broad,  low 
windows  in  the  house,  and  possibly  there  may  be  a  bit 
of  fancy  carving  or  rude  German  script  adorning  the 
front. 

Most  of  the  cottage  is  given  up  to  the  living  room, 
one  quarter  of  which  is  filled  with  hay.  Back  of  this 
room  is  the  stable. 

If  the  chalet  is  on  a  cheese  farm,  all  the  cheese  mak- 
ing takes  place  in  the  living  room.  There  is  the  heating 
of  the  milk  over  the  fire,  the  stirring  of  the  milk  until 
it  curdles  and  can  be  separated  into  curds  and  whey,  and 
lastly  the  molding  of  the  fair  round  cheese  itself.  The 
increasing  stock  of  cheeses  is  examined  daily,  for  they 
must  be  rubbed  with  salt  and  turned  regularly  in  order 
that  they  may  be  kept  sweet. 

Every  one  on  the  cheese  farm  is  busy.  The  little 
lassie  who  tends  the  cows,  holds  a  long  white  stocking 
that  grows  hourly  under  her  busy  fingers.  Her  mother, 
after  the  cheese  making  is  over  for  the  day  and  the 


MODERN    EUROPE.  229 

wooden  buckets  and  churns  are  placed  outdoors  to 
dry,  seizes  the  last  moments  of  waning  day  to  set  a 
few  stitches  in  her  bit  of  embroidery  or  intricate  lace 
work. 

Switzerland  is  noted  for  its  exquisite  embroideries, 
muslins,  and  laces.  They  are  the  work  of  the  common 
people  during  the  long  winter  evenings  and  the  long 
summer  gloamings.  The  men  and  boys  carve  in  wood 
and  ivory.  Everywhere  the  tourist  is  pressed  to  buy 
carved  vases,  paper  cutters,  boxes,  knives,  spoons,  figures 
of  chamois  hunters  and  cheese  makers,  as  well  as  ani- 
mals known  and  unknown  to  Switzerland. 

Above  the  alp  towers  the  summit  of  the  hill.  Here 
the  grass  ceases,  and  the  dull  gray  rock  appears.  There 
is  very  little  vegetation,  except  perhaps  the  delicate 
pink  moss  that  climbs  the  loftiest  heights  in  the  country 
as  far  as  the  snow  drifts. 

On  nearly  every  hill  and  low  mountain  there  are,  as 
we  have  seen,  four  regions.  They  are :  first,  the  farms 
and  vineyards;  second,  the  forests  ;  third,  the  mountain 
pastures ;  and,  lastly,  the  rocky  summits. 

The  mountain  pastures  constitute  the-  most  attractive 
region  of  the  four.  The  chalet  is  not  always  as  pretty 
as  the  one  just  described.  If  it  belongs  to  a  goatherd, 
it  is  usually  a  cave  among  the  rocks.  Often,  too,  the 
chalet  of  the  cowherd  is  far  from  clean.  But  nothing 
can  take  away  the  glory  of  the  outlook,  and  the  health- 
fulness  of  the  outdoor  life. 

How  the  Swiss  peasants  love  their  mountain  life  !  In 
the  spring  the  cows  are  driven  to  the  lower  pastures ; 
and,  as  the  summer  advances,  they  seek  "  fresh  fields 


230  THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

and  pastures  new  "  higher  and  higher  up  the  mountains. 
The  occasion  of  the  driving  of  the  cows  to  the  moun- 
tain has  become  a  village  fete.  A  local  holiday  is  de- 
clared, and  the  friends  of  the  herdsmen  accompany 
them  on  their  way,  shouting,  singing,  and  making 
merry. 

This  little  song  shows  the  feeling  of  regret  with  which 
they  leave  their  lofty  homes  in  the  autumn. 

"  Farewell  to  the  pastures 
So  sunny  and  bright ; 
The  herdsman  must  leave  you 
When  summer  takes  flight. 

"  We  shall  come  to  the  mountains  again,  when  the  voice 
Of  the  cuckoo  is  heard,  bidding  all  things  rejoice ; 
When  the  earth  dons  her  fairest  and  freshest  array, 
And  the  streamlets  are  flowing  in  beautiful  May. 

"  To  pastures  and  meadows 

Farewell,  then,  once  more ! 
The  herdsman  must  go, 
For  the  summer  is  o'er." 

Let  us  now  turn  to  a  real  mountain.  I  am  going  to 
show  you,  in  this  same  Zermatt  valley,  the  mountain 
which  has  been  called  the  most  impressive  in  Switzer- 
land. This  is  the  Matterhorn.  It  is  not  the  loftiest 
mountain.  Mont  Blanc  and  Mont  Rosa  are  both  higher. 
It  is  its  shape  that  makes  the  Matterhorn  so  grand. 

The  upper  part  of  the  mountain  consists  of  a  huge 
wedge,  tapering  sharply  to  a  point.  The  individuality 
and  the  aspiration  of  the  mountain  impress  themselves 
upon  every  one  who  ever  beholds  it.  There  it  towers 


MODERN    EUROPE.  231 

thousands  of  feet  into  the  deep  blue  sky,  with  the  stain- 
less snow  upon  its  summit  and  the  ice-cold  glaciers 
creeping  down  its  sides. 

Some  of  the  awe  which  the  Matterhorn  formerly  in- 
spired was  due  to  the  fact  that,  for  many  years,  no  one 
was  able  to  climb  it.  Bold  native  mountaineers  had 
tried  and  failed.  Just  as  hope  was  high  in  their  hearts 
and  they  felt  sure  of  gaining  their  end,  the  mountain 
would  seem  to  delight  in  placing  some  deep  gulf  or  im- 
passable snow  field  in  their  path.  So  they  were  obliged 
to  turn  back  defeated. 

The  people  in  the.  Zermatt  valley  told  many  legends 
about  the  summit  of  the  Matterhorn.  It  was  only  a 
step  from  there  to  heaven,  they  said.  All  the  good 
people  who  died  in  Zermatt  lived  on  the  top  of  the  Mat' 
terhorn,  that  they  might  still  look  down  on  their  beloved 
homes.  They  had  fairy  cows  who  lived  there,  and  also 
fairy  chamois. 

Once  a  hunter,  climbing  to  an  exceedingly  lofty 
height,  came  upon  a  chamois.  He  fired,  but  the  ball 
bounded  from  its  side.  Then  the  creature,  which  now 
appeared  to  him  of  marvelous  beauty,  spread  delicate, 
gauzy  wings  and  flew  to  the  summit.  Plainly  that  was 
its  home. 

So  the  legends  grew  and  multiplied,  until  they  were 
rudely  driven  away  by  some  Englishmen  in  rough  woolen 
suits  and  broad  hats  with  veils  tied  around  them,  who 
were  armed  with  ice  axes  and  alpenstocks.  An  alpen- 
stock is  a  pole  with  an  iron  point  in  the  base.  These 
men  were  members  of  the  Alpine  Club,  and  caine  to 
conquer  the  Matterhorn. 


232  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

This  Alpine  Club  consists  of  men  from  various  na- 
tions of  Europe  who  develop  muscle  and  hardihood  by 
climbing  mountains.  Members  of  the  club  had  climbed 
Mont  Blanc  and  Mont  Rosa,  and  now  they  came  to 
wrestle  with  .the  famous  mountain  that  lifted  its  un- 
sealed arrowhead  defiantly  in  air. 

They  tried  and  failed.  But  there  was  one  English- 
man among  them,  named  Whymper,  who  refused  to  be 


conquered.  Six  times 
he  tried  and  was  re- 
pulsed. Clouds  arose 
hiding  the  way  from 
sight,  storms  broke  over 
his  head,  crevasses  yawned  be- 
neath his  feet,  guides  grew  terri- 
fied and  refused  to  fulfill  their 
contracts.  These  were  some  of  the  obstacles  that  arose 
from  year  to  year.  But  always  he  was  learning  more 
and  more  of  the  paths  of  the  mountain,  and  discovering 
the  only  possible  way  of  ascent. 

Professor  Tyndall  and  others  were  making  their  ef- 
forts every  summer,  and  there  was  intense  rivalry  as  to 
who  should  first  stand  where  never  man  had  stood  be- 
fore. Whymper  at  last  succeeded;  and  I  am  glad, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  233 

because,  of  all  who  tried,  he  was  the  most  patient  and 
tireless  in  his  efforts. 

He  succeeded,  but  at  a  terrible  cost.  There  were 
seven  in  the  party.  Whymper  and  three  Englishmen, 
Hadow,  Hudson,  and  Lord  Frederick  Douglas,  had 
secured  the  services  of  a  famous  guide,  Michael  Croz, 
and  also  of  two  porters,  old  Peter  and  young  Peter. 
These  porters  were  to  carry  provisions  and  a  tent  and 
bedding. 

.  There  is  not  time  to  speak  of  the  rising  in  Zermatt 
long  before  it  was  light ;  of  the  patient  climb  over  the 
glacier  and  the  lower  slopes  of  the  mountain ;  and  of  the 
chill  night  passed  in  the  little  tent  pitched  two-thirds  of 
the  way  up  the  mountain.  We  have  not  space  to  tell 
of  the  fearful  work  the  next  day,  as  they  walked  over 
ridges  sharp  and  narrow  as  the  blade  of  a  knife,  with 
precipices  thousands  of  feet  deep  on  either  side,  and  as 
they  hung  by  ropes  on  the  faces  of  cliffs,  cutting  steps 
with  their  ice  axes. 

At  last  they  reached  the  top !  Proudly  they  hung 
out  their  little  flag  to  show  the  watchers  in  Zermatt  that 
the  Matterhorn  was  theirs. 

They  were  none  too  soon.  Looking  down  on  the 
Italian  side,  they  found  a  party  well  up  the  mountain, 
and  with  the  best  prospect  in  the  world  of  success.  The 
leader,  an  Italian,  had  tried  nearly  as  often  as  Whymper 
to  climb  this  mountain.  And  now,  when  victoiy  was 
within  his  grasp,  he  found  another  before  him.  An 
agonized  expression  crossed  his  face  as  he  saw  the 
Englishman's  flag,  and  without  a  word  he  turned  to 
descend. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  235 

Our  little  band  of  proud  and  happy  men  gazed  on  the 
wide  panorama  of  mountain  and  plain  spread  below 
them.  To  the  north  rose  the  misty  peaks  of  the  Ber- 
nese Alps,  while  on  each  side  appeared  the  well-known 
forms  of  Mont  Rosa  and  the  Dent  Blanche.  That 
strip  of  green  was  the  valley  of  the  Visp ;  and  that  doll 
village  of  pretty  little  cottages,  Zermatt. 

Descending  an  Alpine  mountain  is  always  more  diffi- 
cult than  ascending.  Facing  down  causes  more  giddi- 
ness than  looking  up. 

In  dangerous  climbing,  the  members  of  a  party  are 
attached  to  one  another  by  a  rope.  If  one  makes  a  mis- 
step, the  others  support  him.  In  dangerous  passes, 
only  one  man  moves  at  a  time.  The  rope  should 
always  be  kept  taut  between  the  men,  as  then  its  power 
of  resistance  is  greatest. 

Whymper's  little  party  were  fastened  in  this  way. 
Their  order  of  march  was  as  follows :  Croz,  Hadow, 
Hudson,  Lord  Frederick  Douglas,  Old  Peter,  Young 
Peter,  and  Whymper.  They  arrived  at  a  difficult  place 
in  their  homeward  progress.  Croz,  after  cutting  steps 
and  assisting  Hadow  in  placing  his'  feet,  turned  to 
descend  farther.  Hadow  lost  his  balance  and  fell  against 
Croz,  knocking  him  off  his  feet.  Croz  uttered  an  ex- 
clamation, as  he  felt  himself  falling.  This  Whymper 
and  Old  Peter  heard;  and,  bracing  themselves  firmly, 
they  resisted  the  shock.  Hudson  and  Douglas  had  been 
dragged  from  their  foothold  by  Croz  and  Hadow,  but 
they  might  have  been  upheld  by  the  others,  if  —  hor- 
ror of  horrors !  —  the  rope  had  not  broken  between 
Douglas  and  Old  Peter. 


236  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  four  men  went  to  their  fate  over  the  steep  preci- 
pice. The  mountain  was  so  abrupt  at  -this  place  that, 
without  exaggeration,  they  fell  four  thousand  feet  to 
the  glacier  below.  There  their  lifeless  bodies  wen. 
found  the  next  day. 

The  two  porters  were  completely  unnerved.  For  an 
hour  they  refused  to  move.  They  trembled  as  if  with 
the  ague,  and  declared  that  they  never  could  get  down 
alive.  How  could  they  reach  Zermatt  in  safety,  since 
Croz,  the  celebrated  Croz,  had  met  his  death  on  the 
Matterhorn  ? 

This  is  only  one  of  a  hundred  thrilling  tales  that 
could  be  told  of  the  Alpine  peaks. 

Mountain  scenery  is  rendered  doubly  beautiful  by  the 
presence  of  a  lake.  Lake  Lucerne  has  been  called  the 
Lake  of  the  Four  Cantons,  as  it  borders  on  four  of  the 
small  states  of  the  Swiss  republic.  Its  dark,  rocky  shores 
are  covered  with  waving  pines,  and  its  sparkling  blue 
waters  reflect  the  Rigi  on  the  east  and  Mt.  Pilatus  on 
the  west.  The  city  of  Lucerne  is  situated  on  the  north- 
ern arm  of  the  lake,  and  the  southern  arm  is  closely  asso- 
ciated with  William  Tell. 

Lucerne  is  a  quaint  and  interesting  city.  It  has  a 
stirring  past,  and  its  picturesque  old  streets  and  build- 
ings, its  richly  decorated  little  church,  and  its  odd  old 
bridge  seem  fitting  scenes  for  the  events  of  its  romantic 
history. 

Perhaps  the  most  celebrated  object  of  "Lucerne  is  its 
Lion.  This  is  one  of  the  most  famous  carvings  of  Thor- 
waldsen,  the  great  Danish  sculptor. 

The  Lion  occupies  a  niche  in  a  huge  mass  of  rock  by 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


237 


238  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

the  lake  side.  The  spot  is  a  secluded  one,  being  shaded 
by  pines  on  both  sides,  while  water  lilies  float  below  on 
the  calm  surface  of  the  lake.  The  Lion  seems  a  terri- 
bly tragic  figure  to  find  in  this  quiet  dell.  He  is  dying ; 
but  in  his  death  agony  lie  defends  with  one  mighty  paw 
his  sacred  charge,  the  lilies  of  France. 

Of  course  the  Lion  is  a  symbolic  figure.  It  represents 
the  bravery  of  the  Swiss  guards  who,  in  the  opening  of 
the  French  Revolution,  defended  the  French  king  and 
queen  against  the  Parisian  mob.  The  French  soldiers 
who  guarded  the  outer  palace  joined  the  mob,  but  noth- 
ing could  turn  the  Swiss  guards.  They  stood  by  their 
posts  and  died,  with  something  of  the  lofty  immobility 
and  calm  devotion  of  the  old  Romans.  So  the  Lion, 
"faithful  unto  death,"  is  here  to-day  to  remind  us  of 
their  noble  devotion  to  duty. 

The  Rigi  is  less  than  six  thousand  feet  high.  It  is  a 
dwarf  beside  other  mountains  we  shall  see ;  but  the 
view  from  its  summit  is  exceedingly  wide  and  beau- 
tiful. 

A  railroad  like  that  on  Mt.  Washington  has  been 
built  up  the  Rigi.  Every  hour  during  ten  hours  of  the 
day,  the  sturdy  little  engine  climbs  the  height,  push- 
ing the  car  before  it.  As  the  car  is  open  on  all  sides, 
and  moves  no  faster  than  the  pace  of  an  ordinary  walker, 
the  passengers  have  excellent  opportunities  for  seeing 
the  view.  It  grows  finer  and  finer.  The  four  cantons 
lie  spread  out  below  them,  while  bright  Lake  Lucerne 
sparkles  defiance  at  the  gloomy  brow  of  Mt.  Pilatus.  In 
the  far  distance,  the  snow-white  Jungfrau  sometimes 
appears. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  239 

Mt.  Pilatus  is  named  after  Pontius  Pilate.  It  is  said 
that  he  committed  suicide  in  Rome,  and  his  body  was 
thrown  into  the  Tiber.  That  river  refused  to  hide  the 
body  of  the  man  who  had  condemned  Christ  to  death, 
and  tossed  it  indignantly  upon  its  shores.  It  was  taken 
to  the  Rhine,  but  the  Rhine  also  refused  to  let  it  rest 
beneath  its  waters.  Finally  it  was  thrown  into  a  silent 
little  lake  on  the  top  of  a  dark  mountain  in  Switzer- 
land. The  mountain  from  that  time  was  given  the 
name  of  Pilatus. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  four  cantons  consider  Pilatus 
the  clerk  of  the  weather.  Instead  of  Old  Prob,  it  is 
Old  Pilate.  The  saying  is  : 

"  If  Pilatus  wears  his  hood, 
Then  the  weather's  always  good ; 
If  he  draws  his  dirk  again, 
We  shall  surely  then  have  rain." 

The  "  hood  "  is  a  rain  cloud  completely  hiding  the 
summit  of  the  mountain.  The  "  dirk  "  is  a  thin,  sharp 
cloud,  cutting  across  its  width.  Sometimes  it  is  hard 
to  tell  whether  a  given  cloud  is  a  dirk  •  or  a  hood ;  and 
discussions  of  this  subject  are  always  in  order  among 
the  tourists  sailing  on  Lake  Lucerne. 

Once  a  year  there  is  a  celebration  among  the  towns 
on  Lake  Lucerne,  in  honor  of  William  Tell,  the  Swiss 
patriot.  The  peasants  in  their  bright  costumes  crowd 
the  lake  and  its  shores,  as  they  proceed  on  their  yearly 
pilgrimage  from  the  birthplace  of  Tell  to  the  town  of 
Altdorf,  where  he  refused  to  bow  down  to  the  hat  of 
Austria,  and  also  shot  the  apple  placed  upon  his  son's 


240  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

head.  The  various  monuments  to  Tell  are  all  visited. 
One  of  the  most  remarkable  is  a  huge  rock  rising  in  the 
midst  of  the  lake.  This  natural  object  has  been  chosen 
as  a  monument  to  both  Tell  and  Schiller,  the  Swiss 
patriot,  and  the  German  poet  who  wrote  of  him. 

Far  back  in  the  Middle  Ages,  a  little  band  of  monks 
brought  soil  with  great  labor,  and  made  a  patch  of  land 
between  two  small  lakes  in  the  county  of  Berne.  This 
soil  was  exceedingly  fertile ;  grass,  vines,  and  flowers 
flourished  upon  it,  and  the  admiring  peasants  called  it 
"  the  lovely  little  plain." 

For  hundreds  of  years  it  was  a  lonely  little  plain 
as  well.  On  the  east  and  west  were  the  lakes,  and  on 
the  north  and  south  it  was  hemmed  in  by  ranges  so  per- 
pendicular that  stakes  had  to  be  driven  down  between 
rows  of  grains  and  vegetables  to  prevent  the  upper  lay- 
ers from  falling  down  upon  the  lower. 

There  was  one  break  in  the  wall,  and  through  this 
mountain  gorge  a  surpassingly  lovely  view  of  the  snowy 
Jungfrau,  or  Maiden,  was  obtained.  This  mountain  is 
the  most  beautiful  of  all  the  great  peaks  of  the  Bernese 
Oberland. 

It  was  this  view  which  first  attracted  tourists  to  the 
village  that  covered  the  lovely  little  plain.  This  village 
is  known  as  Inteiiaken,  which  means  "  between  the 
lakes." 

There  are  now  twenty-five  hotels  in  Inteiiaken,  with 
electric  bells  and  lights,  and  waiters  in  dress  suits. 
There  are  five  parks,  and  the  streets  are  thronged  with 
superb  carriages  and  horses,  bearing  elegantly-dressed 
people.  This  must  astonish  the  simple  peasants  ?  Oh, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  241 

no !  Some  of  them  are  beginning  to  be  elegantly-dressed, 
too ;  and  they  readily  adapt  themselves  to  the  march  of 
civilization. 

But  even  over  these  fashionable  tourists  the  Jungfrau 
has  laid  her  magic  charm.  Whether  lounging  in  the 
park  or  tennis  ground,  smoking  on  the  piazza,  or  riding 
through  the  streets,  the  eyes  of  all  turn,  as  if  under  a 
spell,  to  the  point  of  the  horizon  where  the  dazzling 
vision  appears.  There  is  one  peak  so  sharp  and  bright 
in  its  whiteness  that  it  is  known  as  the  silver  horn. 
The  sunset  light  upon  it  causes  it  to  blush  with  the 
color  of  a  deep  pink  rose. 

Pilatus  and  Rigi,  the  Jungfrau,  and  all  the  peaks  of 
the  Bernese  Oberland  belong  to  the  lesser  of  the  two 
mountain  ranges  spoken  of  at  the  beginning  of  this 
chapter.  The  loftiest  mountain  in  this  range  is  the 
Finster-Aarhorn,  which  is  over  fourteen  thousand  feet 
in  height.  It  seems  the  center  of  the  glacier  system  of 
the  Oberland,  for  down  its  sides  pour  four  noted  glaciers, 
or  rivers  of  ice. 

Here  is  the  place,  in  all  our  travels,  best  adapted  to 
the  study  of  glaciers.  A  great  man  has  been  here  before 
us,  for  the  celebrated  Agassiz  made  most  of  his  valuable 
glacial  discoveries  while  studying  the  Aar  glacier,,  one 
of  those  near  the  Finster-Aarhorn. 

Born  in  Neuchatel  situated  on  the  bright  little  lake 
of  the  same  name,  from  his  earliest  years  he  was  inter- 
ested in  fresh-water  fishes.  His  first  scientific  work  was 
to  study  and  write  of  the  fresh-water  fishes  of  Europe. 
He  only  stopped  in  this  labor  to  visit  the  Aar  glacier  in 
the  summer,  and  to  make  observations  concerning  it. 


242  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

In  his  later  life  he  made  America  his  home,  and  we 
are  proud  to  share  his  glory  with  the  Swiss.  A  bowlder 
from  the  Aar  glacier  marks  his  grave  at  Mount  Auburn, 
Cambridge,  Massachusetts.  Many  of  the  facts  that  I 
shall  now  give  you  concerning  glaciers  were  ascertained 
by  Agassiz. 

Each  fresh  fall  of  snow  upon  a  mountain  peak  presses, 
with  ever  increasing  force,  upon  the  layers  of  snow 
beneath  it.  This  great  pressure  and  the  melting  of  the 
snow  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  cause  it  to  change 
to  ice.  The  mass  of  ice  is  constantly  moving  downward 
an  almost  imperceptible  distance  each  year. 

In  its  icy  grip  it  clutches  rocks  that  lie  either  in.  its 
pathway  or  beside  its  course,  and  drags  them  on.  So  it 
has  come  to  pass  that  there  are  always  lines  of  stones 
on  the  surface  of  the  glacier,  parallel  with  its  course. 
These  lines  of  stones  are  called  moraines.  Those  at 
the  side  are  called  lateral  moraines. 

Sometimes  two  smaller  glaciers  unite  to  form  a  large 
glacier.  Can  you  see  that  a  lateral  moraine  of  each 
tributary  glacier  would  then  be  in  the  center  of  the  main 
glacier?  Such  a  moraine  is  called  a  medial  moraine. 

There  is  only  one  more  kind  of  moraine,  —  a  terminal 
one.  When  the  foot  of  the  glacier  reaches  the  warmer 
lower  valleys,  it  melts.  The  bowlders  and  rocks  which 
it  is  carrying  fall,  and  the  glacier  goes  on  its  way  as  a 
river.  The  Rhone  and  the  Rhine  arise  from  glaciers. 

To  cross  a  glacier  is  rather  more  interesting  than  easy. 
Looking  down  upon  it,  its  surface  appears  like  an  even 
floor,  but  one  finds  it  very  different  when  actually  upon 
it.  It  is  all  ups,  and  downs,  and  uneven  surfaces. 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


243 


Yawning  crevasses,  from  which  the  guide  pulls  you 
quickly  away,  reveal  the  blue  depth  of  the  glacier. 
Swift  little  streams  run  over  the  ice  in  all  directions. 


As  for  the  moraines,  this  definition,  by  a  member  of  the 
Alpine  club,  is  facetious  but  true.  He  says,  "  A  mo- 
raine consists  of  one  thousand  cartloads  of  stones  care- 


244  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

fully  piled  up  by  nature  on  scientific  principles,  with  a 
view  to  the  dislocation  of  the  human  ankle." 

Glaciers  frequently  add  to  the  beauty  of  the  landscape. 
It  is  true  that  they  are  sometimes  so  covered  with  rocks 
and  earth  that  no  one  would  imagine  a  glacier  was  there. 
But  often  they  are  of  a  clear  white  color ;  and  when 
surrounded  by  waving  fields  of  wheat  and  rye,  and 
bordered  with  blue  flax  flowers,  they  are  an  unusual  and 
beautiful  sight. 

We  must  now  hasten  to  a  group  of  mountains  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Rhone,  and' pay  our  respects  to  Mont 
Blanc,  the  loftiest  mountain  in  Europe.  There  is  a 
regal  look  to  its  broad  snowy  brow,  raised  fifteen  thou- 
sand feet  in  air,  that  recalls  these  lines  of  Byron :  — 

"  Mont  Blanc  is  the  monarch  of  mountains, 

We  crowned  him  long  ago, 
On  a  throne  of  rocks,  in  a  robe  of  cloud, 
With  a  diadem  of  snow." 

That  "diadem  of  snow"  can  be  seen  from  Lake  Geneva 
and  in  the  Bernese  Oberland,  appearing  more  and  more 
beautiful  with  every  added  mile  of  distance.  It  is 
indeed  true  of  Mont  Blanc  that  "distance  lends  enchant- 
ment to  the  view."  That  is  because  it  is  refined  to  the 
mere  ghost  of  a  mountain,  a  pale,  sharply  defined  cloud 
on  the  horizon,  shining  sometimes  with  an  almost 
heavenly  radiance.  In  a  nearer  view,  if  less  unearthly 
in  its  beauty,  its  great  bulk  is  moT>e  impressive  and 
overpowering. 

It  is  to  Chamouni  that  one  goes  to  obtain  this  near 
view  of  Mont  Blanc.  Chamouni,  like  Interlaken,  is 


MODERN    EUROPE.  245 

now  a  fashionable  resort.  The  once  simple,  charmingly 
rural  place  is  most  decidedly  changed. 

Tourists  sit  on  the  hotel  piazza,  and  watch  the 
changes  on  Mont  Blanc.  The  play  of  light  and  shade 
is  always  beautiful;  daily  there  are  bold  excursionists 
climbing  to.  the  summit,  who  appear  as  small  black  dots 
on  the  white  surface  of  Mont  Blanc's  immense  snow 
field,  and  at  rare  intervals  there  is  an  avalanche. 

A  huge  cake  of  ice  detaches  itself  from  the  mountain 
side,  and  goes  crashing  down  into  the  valley.  Woe  be 
to  the  hardy  mountaineer  whose  path  this  avalanche 
crosses !  He  is  certainly  lost.  An  avalanche  appears 
a  very  slight  thing  at  a  distance,  but  the  sound  that  it 
makes  is  tremendous.  It  seems  almost  as  if  the  heavens 
were  cracking.  Whole  villages  have  been  buried  in 
a  night  by  avalanches.  They  are  one  of  the  most  sud- 
den and  fatal  dangers  of  mountain  life. 

Not  far  from  Chamouni  is  a  pass  over  the  mountains, 
at  the  summit  of  which  is  situated  a  hospice.  A  hospice 
is  a  house  where  travelers  can  obtain  food  and  lodging 
for  the  night.  There  are  many  hospices  among  the 
Alps.  This  one  near  Mont  Blanc  is  the  most  famous. 
It  is  called  the  Grand  St.  Bernard,  and  is  kept  .by 
monks. 

The  monks  have  pledged  themselves  to  receive  every 
one  who  applies  to  them,  and  during  a  year  they  often 
shelter  twenty-five  thousand  people.  Most  of  the 
guests  are  poor  peasants  going  between  Italy  and  Switz- 
erland. They  of  course  pay  nothing,  and  it  is  only 
from  the  rich  summer  tourists  that  the  monastery 
receives  any  money  in  return  for  its  hospitality.  No 


246  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

definite  sum  is  charged,  but  there  is  a  box  into  which 
any  guest  may  slip  what  he  is  prompted  to  give. 

The  winter  is  the  hardest  season  of  the  year  for  the 
monks  of  St.  Bernard.  The  drifts  of  snow  are  forty 
feet  deep  on  the  mountain  path;  and  every  day  and 
often  in  the  night,  the  monks  go  out  to  look  for  travelers 
who  may  have  lost  their  way.  They  are  accompanied 
by  half  a  dozen  St.  Bernard  dogs,  who  aid  them  in  their 
work.  These  are  the  descendants  of  the  dog  which  St. 
Bernard,  the  founder  of  the  monastery,  brought  with 
him  to  this  remote  mountain  peak. 

Hundreds  of  years  have  developed  in  this  race  of 
dogs  a  marvelous  sagacity.  They  go  by  instinct  to  the 
snow-covered  mound  that  marks  the  spot  where  some 
wearied  traveler  has  sunk  down  for  a  moment's  rest  and 
has  lingered  only  too  long.  They  brush  the  snow  with 
their  paws  from  the  white  face  below,  and  try  with  all 
their  might  to  rouse  it.  Their  loud  barks  call  the 
monks  to  the  place.  The  little  wooden  barrels  that  the 
dogs  carry  on  their  necks  contain  brandy.  Their  mas- 
ters pour  some  between  the  pale  lips,  and  soon  the  man 
is  aroused  and  able  to  go  with  them  to  the  monastery. 

If  all  their  efforts  are  in  vain,  the  body  is  taken  to  an 
outbuilding  of  the  monastery.  There  it  is  preserved 
till  the  friends  of  the  dead  man  claim  it. 

The  air  011  this  high  mountain  is  so  clear  and  cold 
that  no  change  takes  place  in  the  unclaimed  bodies  of 
those  who  perish  in  the  storms.  They  will  remain  for 
years  with  the  cold  beauty  and  whiteness  of  marble. 

I  wish  there  were  time  to  speak  at  length  of  Geneva 
and  Berne.  Geneva  is  situated  at  the  western  end  of 


MODERN    EUROPE.  247 

Lake  Geneva,  the  only  lake  in  Switzerland  connected 
with  the  Rhone.  Lake  Geneva  has  been  said  "  to  com- 
bine the  rough  mountain  grandeur  of  Lucerne  with  all 
the  softness  of  atmosphere  of  an  Italian  lake." 

It  is  a  beautiful  sight,  as  the  golden  sunlight  falls 
upon  the*  green  vineyard  on  the  lake  side,  and  the  fresh 
breeze  ruffles  the  dancing  blue  waters.  Quaint  little 
fishing  boats  with  queer  sails  draw  pretty  white  lines 
over  the  level  lake.  All  is  gaiety  and  brightness,  as 
the  jaunty  little  steamers  take  travelers  on  their  round 
through  the  lake,  showing  them  Villeneuve,  Montreuze, 
Vevay,  Coppet,  and  perhaps,  most  interesting  of  all,  the 
white  walls  of  the  Castle  of  Chillon. 

Many  famous  people  have  lived  on  the  shore  of  Ge- 
neva. Some  of  them  are  Calvin,  Gibbon,  Madame  de 
Stael,  and  Voltaire.  These  names  will  become  more  in- 
teresting to  you  as  you  enter  the  older  world  of 
thought. 

Berne,  the  capital  of  Switzerland,  is  one  of  the 
quaintest  cities  in  the  world.  Its  houses  are  of  gray 
stone,  with  tiled  roofs  of  dark  red,  and  with  all  sorts  of 
curiously  curved  and  twisted  chimneys,  grayish  white 
in  color.  They  look  out  upon  wide  streets,  eacjtf  with 
a  covered  canal  from  the  Aar  River  passing  jlown  the 
middle.  Every  hundred  feet  or  so  there  is  a  fountain, 
where  crowds  of  women  wash  clothes  all  the  week. 

The  sidewalks  are  cloistered,  that  is,  they  pass  beneath 
low  stone  arches  connected  with  the  houses.  The  lower 
stories  of  many  of  the  houses  are  dark  little  shops.  In 
the  afternoon  the  mistresses  of  the  houses  sit  on  stone 
benches  by  their  doors,  busily  engaged  in  knitting  stock- 
ings. 


248  THE  WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Some  of  the  windows  on  the  front  have  quite  an 
oriental  look.  They  are  encircled  by  iron  railings,  and 
contain  seats  on  which  are  piled  red  cushions.  The 
daughters  of  the  family  sit  here ;  and  when  we  remember 
that  the  window  contains,  moreover,  a  host  of  blossoming 
flowers,  we  can  see  what  a  change  it  must  make  in  the 
somewhat  austere  low  houses.  The  bright  cushions,  the 
flowers,  and  the  pretty  girls,  give  an  almost  Eastern  bril- 
liancy to  the  demure,  pale  streets  of  Berne. 

Once  more,  before  leaving  Switzerland,  we  find  our- 
selves in  the  shadow  of  Mont  Blanc.  It  is  nearly  sun- 
down. The  light  is  leaving  the  valleys  and  passing 
upward  to  the  mountains.  Chamouni  is  dark;  the  white 
Mer  de  Glace  is  bathed  in  shadow ;  but  the  light  still 
lingers  on  Mont  Blanc  and  on  the  sharp  peaks  called 
The  Needles  which  form  his  court.  It  is  now  that  the 
Swiss  shepherd  and  cowherd  take  their  alpine  horns 
and,  seating  themselves  on  the  hillsides,  prepare  to  bid 
each  other  good-night. 

Presently  floating  down  from  the  highest  alp  comes 
a  deep  musical  call,  "  Praise  the  Lord !  Praise  the 
Lord!"  The  call  is  taken  up  on  all  sides,  and  in  a 
moment  the  words  are  sounding  through  all  the  hills 
and  re-echoing  from  the  valleys.  Again  the  deep  notes 
ring  out,  "  Praise  the  Lord  !  " 

Meanwhile  the  sun's  rays  have  been  mounting  higher 
and  higher.  Now  he  shines  upon  the  lofty  crown  of 
Mont  Blanc.  The  white  snow  is  changed  to  an  ex- 
quisite pink.  It  is  the  wonderful  alpine  glow  ! 

When  this  begins  to  fade,  there  is  a  solemn  hush  in 
the  evening  service  of  praise.  Then  once  more  a  single 


MODERN    EUROPE  249 

alpine  horn  sounds,  "  Good-night,  friend  and  brother ! 
good-night !  "  "  Good-night !  good-night ! "  comes  back 
in  lovely  clear  tones  from  all  sides,  and  then  a  deep 
silence  once  more  holds  the  hills.  Night  has  come  and 
the  Swiss  good-night  has  been  said. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 
A  STAY  IN  PARIS. 

It  is  about  four  o'clock  of  a  day  in  early  summer  that 
we  enter  Paris  and  drive  slowly  along  one  of  its  chief 
avenues,  the  Champs  Elyse'es.  Many  writers  have 
called  this  thoroughfare  the  finest  in  the  world.  The 
wide  street  is  divided  by  rows  of  elms,  horse-chestnuts, 
limes,  and  plane  trees,  into  several  avenues.  The  widest 
avenues  are  for  carriages;  while  the  narrower  ways, 
which  are  yet  as  wide  as  our  city  streets,  are  thronged 
with  pedestrians. 

The  long  street  is  lined  with  stately  buildings  of  a 
grayish  tint.  They  are  mostly  built  of  limestone,  ob- 
tained within  the  city  limits.  At  intervals  along  the 
way,  fountains  throw  their  spray  high  into  the  air ; 
bronze  or  marble  statues  stand  in  the  center  of  bright 
beds  of  flowers  ;  while  in  the  eastern  end  of  the  Champs 
Elyse'es  are  penny  shows  of  every  variety,  and  many 
tiny  outdoor  restaurants,  called  cafe's.  Here  crowds  of 
people  gather ;  and,  while  they  chat  over  the  news  and 
sip  their  coffee,  claret,  or  absinthe,  their  eyes  are  always 


250  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

fixed  upon  the  passing  throng.  It  is,  indeed,  worth 
notice. 

The  whole  city  is  taking  the  air,  as  it  does  daily. 
Superb  equipages,  with  coachmen  and  footmen  in  hand- 
some livery,  dash  past.  Within  are  seen  army  officers 
in  uniform,  cabinet  officers,  princes,  beautiful  ladies  of 
rank,  and  lovely  children.  This  is  the  fashionable 
drive,  and  nearly  all  the  carriages  are  going  to  or  return- 
ing from  the  park,  called  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  on  the 
western  side  of  Paris. 

The  walks  are  filled  with  the  humbler  classes  of 
people.  Tradesmen  and  their  wives  and  children  are 
enjoying  the  brightness  of  the  hour  and  the  beauty  of 
the  flowers  and  fountains.  With  interested  faces  they 
watch  the  passing  carriages. 

We  have  seen  dense  crowds  and  beautiful  streets  be- 
fore this  in  our  trip  through  Europe.  Why  does  it  seem 
as  if  this  sight  were  different  from  any  other,  and  more 
remarkable  ?  Is  it  the  bright  blue  sky,  that  bends  above 
us  in  such  an  arch  of  beauty  ?  No !  other  cities  have 
have  had  as  blue  a  sky,  and  other  cities  have  basked  in 
as  bright  a  flood  of  sunshine  as  does  Paris  to-day. 

Ah !  this  is  it.  Every  face  has  a  smile  upon  it. 
Every  one  appears  perfectly  happy.  This  joy  which  its 
people  take  in  mere  living  is  what  makes  Paris  different 
from  every  other  European  city,  and  what  constitutes 
its  greatest  charm.  Already  your  own  heart  has  found 
this  out,  and  is  beating  a  quick  measure  in  harmony 
with  the  gaiety  of  light  and  movement  all  about  you. 

This  joyousness  is  the  abiding  charm  of  Paris.  This 
is  the  spell  that  the  Circe  city  casts  over  all  who  have 


MODERN    EUROPE.  251 

spent  some  months  within  her  walls.  '  Wherever  they 
may  be  afterwards,  at  times  they  helir  her  well-nigh 
irresistible  call  to  return  to  the  one  happy  city  in  the 
world. 

Here  is  a  little  street  boy,  a  "  gamin,"  as  he  is  called. 
He  is  eight  years  old.  He  has  no  home,  no  parents  to 
43are  for  him,  no  brothers  and  sisters  to  love.  His  clothes 
are  rags,  and  at  night  he  sleeps  in  any  miserable  hole  he 
can  find.  Can  you  imagine  any  creature  more  wretched? 
Yet  he  is  as  happy  as  a  king.  He  wears  his  clothes  with 
a  certain  jaunty  grace ;  he  patters  gaily  along  the  pave- 
ment on  his  bare  feet;  his  saucy  brown  eyes  gaze 
sharply  and  intelligently  about  him ;  he  whistles  and  he 
sings. 

He  knows  no  more  than  the  sparrows  where  his 
breakfast  is  to  come  from.  It  may  be  that  for  days  he 
has  had  nothing  to  eat.  And  yet  his  heart  is  dancing 
for  joy.  Why?  Because  he  has  the  whole  of  great, 
beautiful  Paris  for  his  own.  The  parks,  the  churches, 
the  picture  galleries  are  free  to  all  the  poor ;  but  most 
of  all  he  prefers  the  streets.  There  nothing  escapes 
him;  he  watches  the  housewives  as  they  select  their 
provisions  and  groceries,  and  forgets  that  he  is  hungry; 
he  criticises  the  arrangement  of  the  pastry  cook's  window 
so  audibly  that  the  man's  anger  is  aroused  and  he  pur- 
sues him  a  little  way  down  the  street.  This  delights 
our  gamin ;  and  as  his  foe  retreats,  he  follows  him  with 
all  manner  of  jeers  and  gay  taunts. 

With  a  whoop  of  glee,  he  is  off  to  the  Tuileries  Gar- 
dens to  see  the  children  who  are  better  cared  for  feed 
the  swans.  Perhaps  he  gets  a  breakfast  by  diving  into 


252  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

one  of  the  basins,  and  robbing  a  great  white-winged  bird 
of  a  crust  of  bread.  He  then  amuses  himself  by  stand- 
ing on  the  marble  curb  of  the  fountain,  and  holding  out 
the  bread  to  the  swan.  As  she  stretches  out  her  head 
to  take  the  offered  morsel,  this  bad  little  boy  jerks  it 
away  Again  and  again  he  repeats  this  trick,  calling 
out  in  very  bad  French,  "  Did  you  think  you  were  going 
to  get  my  breakfast,  now  ?  " 

Back  again  to  the  city  he  hurries ;  and,  as  the  fashion- 
able people  are  going  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  he  goes 
also.  There  he  narrowly  escapes  being  run  over  by  a 
coachman,  whom  he  follows  for  a  long  distance,  with  his 
puny  threats  and  scoldings.  He  eyes  the  beautiful 
dresses  approvingly  and  the  spirited  horses  admiringly. 
It  is  all  a  show  arranged  for  his  especial  benefit.  If  he 
earns  a  penny,  instead  of  wisely  buying  food,  very  likely 
he  will  use  it  to  see  one  of  the  Cheap  Jack  entertain- 
ments in  the  Champs  Elyse*es. 

He  has  his  sharp  little  joke,  or  merry  jest  and  smile, 
for  all  who  pass.  They  good-naturedly  tolerate  him. 
He  would  not  leave  Paris  for  a  good  home  and  prospects 
in  America.  He  loves  his  native  city  too  well.  He 
would  rather  be  a  gamin  all  his  days  than  an  exile  from 
her  dear  streets.  Why,  Paris  is  the  first  city  in  the 
world !  All  other  places  are  merely  provinces ! 

This  feeling  is  not  confined  to  the  little  gamin  alone. 
Every  one  in  Paris  feels  her  hold  upon  him.  Many  a 
skillful  workman  has  refused  an  opening  to  fortune  be- 
cause it  would  take  him  from  his  native  city.  Many 
another  workman  '  has  been  driven  by  homesickness 
back  again  to  her  brightness. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  253 

Paris  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Seine, 
which  flows  in  large  easy  curves  across  a  level  plain,  shut 
in  on  three  sides  by  low  mountains.  Within  the  city 
walls,  the  river  is  spanned  by  numerous  bridges.  Two 
are  for  foot  passengers,  and  two  for  railroads,  while  the 
others  are  for  carriages.  Both  shores  are  bounded  by 
fine  stone  quays. 

The  finest  streets  are  the  boulevards.  From  time  to 
time,  as  Paris  has  grown,  the  old  walls  have  been  re- 
moved and  new  ones,  inclosing  a  larger  circle,  have 
been  built.  The  space  gained  when  the  old  walls  were 
taken  down  has  been  laid  out  in  fine  streets,  which  are 
called  boulevards. 

There  are,  in  all,  three  different  sets  of  boulevards, 
making  three  circles  through  the  city.  Sometimes  we 
find  a  street  called  a  boulevard,  cutting  across  one  of 
the  three  circles ;  but  in  that  case  the^  name  has  been 
incorrectly  applied. 

The  streets  of  Paris  are  most  delicately  clean.  At  a 
very  early  hour  each  morning  they  are  watered.  A 
slender  stream  washes  each  square  foot  of  the  side- 
walk ;  and,  at  the  same  early  hour,  men  in  the  employ 
of  the  city  go  around  to  remove  carefully  from  the 
pavements  every  atom  of  refuse  or  waste.  By  .seven 
o'clock  the  city  streets  appear  as  spotless  as  if  they  had 
been  swept  by  the  little  old  woman  of  the  song,  whose 
especial  charge  was  the  cobwebs  on  the  face  of  the 
moon. 

The  money  to  pay  for  the  street  cleaning  is  obtained 
by  taxing  balconies,  signs,  lanterns,  and  other  orna- 
mental additions  to  the  houses  throughout  the  city. 


254  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Telegraphs  and  telephones  do  not  mar  the  street  with 
their  unsightly  poles  and  wires.  All  such  machinery  is 
taken  care  of  underground. 

Perhaps  the  building  in  the  northern  half  of  the  city 
most  interesting  to  travelers  is  the  Louvre.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  celebrated  museums  in  the  world.  Here 
are  gathered  Egyptian  and  Grecian  antiquities,  Per- 
sian, French,  Italian,  and  Spanish  pottery,  and  ancient 
bronzes.  One  gallery  is  devoted  to  the  royal  gems  and 
jewels  no  longer  in  the  possession  of  any  member  of  the 
three  houses  who  claim  the  French  throne,  —  the  house 
of  Bourbon,  the  house  of  Orleans,  and  the  house  of  Bona- 
parte. In  another  room  is  an  interesting  collection  of 
furniture  and  tapestry. 

But  the  Louvre  is  most  famous  for  the  statues  and 
paintings  it  contains.  Its  most  noted  statue  is  the  beau- 
tiful Venus  of  Milo.  She  holds  her  court  in  a  separate 
room,  where  admiring  visitors  gather  daily. 

One  could  here  study  with  delight  the  progress  of 
painting  from  the  earliest  ages  down  to  modern  times, 
for  each  period  is  represented  by  the  work  of  its  noted 
artists.  The  collection  is  rich  in  paintings  by  Fra  An- 
gelico,  Raphael,  Rubens,  Vandyck,  and  others.  No 
painting  is  admitted  to  the  Louvre  until  ten  years  after 
the  death  of  its  artist.  In  this  respect  the  Louvre  dif- 
fers from  the  gallery  of  the  Luxembourg.  There,  only 
the  paintings  of  living  artists  are  exhibited. 

The  casket  that  contains  all  this  wealth  of  beauty 
and  antiquity,  the  building  of  the  Louvre  itself,  is  most 
magnificent.  It  adjoins  the  palace  of  the  Tuileries, 
and  the  two  buildings  together  occupy  twenty-four 


MODERN    EUROPE.  255 

acres  of  ground.  Each  fa9ade  of  the  Louvre  is  very 
beautiful  and  elaborately  decorated.  But  perhaps  those 
to  the  south  and  east  are  the  finest.  On  the  first  floor, 
at  the  east,  is  the  long  colonnade  by  Perrault ;  and  on 
the  south,  the  Pavilion  of  Flora. 

West  of  the  Louvre  are  the  gardens  of  the  Tuileries. 
They,  like  many  others  of  the  gardens  of  Paris,  are  laid 
out  in  truly  French  style.  The  arrangement  is  very 
set.  The  paths  are  at  right  angles  to  each  other,  and 
the  beds  are  perfect  squares,  circles,  or  ovals.  Mother 
Nature  is  a  gardener  who  has  not  been  called  in.  Even 
the  trees  are  clipped  or  trained  in  stiff  patterns. 

This  is  the  children's  paradise.  They  spend  many 
hours  of  every  day  here  in  the  sunshine.  The  rich 
children  are  attended  by  their  nurses,  who  are  dressed 
in  the  nurses'  uniform.  It  consists  of  a  long  white 
apron,  and  a  ruffled  cap  tied  with  white  ribbons  that 
reach  nearly  to  the  hem  of  the  dress  behind. 

Sometimes  their  little  charges  appear  in  all  the  baby 
finery  of  silks  and  satins,  ruffles  and  tucks.  But  gener- 
ally they  are  sensibly  clad  in  a  simple  dress  like  a  great 
apron,  which  covers  them  from  small  throat  to  toddling 
heels.  In  this  they  are  perfectly  free. 

They  tumble  about  on  the  lawns,  for  here  there  are 
no  disagreeable  signs  to  "  keep  off  the  grass."  They 
dig  up  the  paths,  and  build  forts  and  cities  with  the 
small  wooden  shovels  that  can  always  be  purchased 
from  some  near  booth.  Then  there  are  the  dancing 
fountains  to  watch,  the  swans  to  feed  with  bread 
crumbs,  and  the  fresh  blossoms  in  the  flower  beds  to 
count  and  name. 


256  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

On  some  fete  day  or  birthday  the  kind  father  bestows 
upon  Jacques  and  Marie  several  of  the  small  coins 
called  sous.  Such  joy!  After  counting  the  money, 
they  find  they  can  take  a  ride  in  one  of  the  tiny  car- 
riages, drawn  by  a  white  goat,  which  can  always  be 
hired  in  the  gardens. 

Now  they  are  seated.  Jacques,  with  his  hat  pushed 
back  on  his  curly  head,  braces  his  sturdy  feet  against 
the  dashboard  of  the  small  carriage.  Proudly  he  re- 
ceives the  blue  ribbons  from  the  boy  who  owns  the 
equipage.  Marie  is  a  little  timid.  She  fixes  her  black 
eyes  on  the  horned  head  of  the  goat,  and  clings  with 
both  hands  to  Jacques's  sleeve.  They  start  off.  Lisette, 
the  nurse,  walks  beside  them  to  see  that  no  harm  comes. 
But  she  does  not  walk  beside  them  all  the  way. 

They  discover  presently  that  Nannette,  the  goat,  has 
a  tnost  uncertain,  not  to  say  disagreeable,  temper. 
Sometimes  she  walks  so  slowly  that  Jacques  is  only 
kept  by  the  entreaties  of  Marie  from  using  the  neat 
little  whip  at  his  elbow.  Again,  she  stops  altogether 
and  begins  to  back.  Suddenly  she  starts  off  at  a  steam 
engine  pace,  leaving  poor  Lisette  far  in  the  rear.  Then 
she  turns  aside,  and  begins  to  butt  against  a  tree. 

When  Lisette  hurries  up,  red  and  panting,  with  her 
cap  ribbons  flying  in  the  breeze,  what  does  the  vicious 
Nannette  do  ?  She  seizes  on  one  of  those  same  float- 
ing ribbons,  and  begins  to  munch  it.  This  is  too  much 
for  Lisette.  Regardless  of  Jacques V  entreaties,  she 
lifts  both  children  out  of  the  tiny  carriage,  and  re- 
quests a  civil  policeman  to  take  back  the  cart  to  its 
owner. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  257 

Marie  is  pale  with  terror,  while  her  big  black  eyes 
seem  almost  starting  from  her  head.  uDo  you  know," 
she  says  to  Jacques,  as  hand  in  hand  they  trot  before 
Lisette  back  to  the  shady  seat  under  the  chestnut  where 
they  usually  spend  their  mornings,  "  do  you  know,  it 
would  have  been  better  if  we  had  bought  bonbons  with 
our  sous."  But  Jacques,  being  a  boy,  does  not  agree 
with  her. 

West  of  the  Tuileries  Gardens  is  a  large  square, 
called  the  Place  de  la  Concorde.  This  means  the 
peaceful  square.  It  appears  very  peaceful  as  we  look 
at  it  now.  Stately  buildings  inclose  it,  while  in  the 
center  is  an  Egyptian  obelisk,  looking  down  on  the 
splashing  fountains  with  the  calm  remoteness  of  ex- 
treme old  age. 

This  is  the  obelisk  of  Luxor,  from  the  ruins  of  the 
ancient  city  of  Thebes  in  Egypt.  It  was  presented  to 
France  in  1830;  but  transporting  and  erecting  it  was 
such  a  difficult  undertaking  that  it  was  fully  six  years 
before  it  was  set  up  in  the  Place  de  la  Concorde.  In 
those  six  years  it  cost  four  hundred  thousand  dollars. 
Now,  with  the  hieroglyphic  furrows  on  its  brow,  it 
looks  wisely  and  gravely  down  upon  the  gay  French 
world  below,  with  its  struggles  and  its  triumphs. 

In  the  square  are  eight  statues,  which  represent  the 
principal  French  cities.  The  figure  for  the  city  of 
Strasburg  is  draped  in  black,  to  show  the  mourning  of 
France  at  losing  that  city. 

The  Place  de  la  Concorde  was  not  always  so  peace- 
ful. If  we  could  look  back  one  hundred  years,  it 
would  seem  to  us  the  wickedest  spot  in  all  mad,  sinning 


258  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Paris.  It  was  here  that  the  guillotine  was  set  up,  and 
the  rivers  of  blood  flowed. 

Louis  XVI.,  Marie  Antoinette,  with  many  nobles  and 
people  of  rank,  laid  down  their  lives  in  this  place. 
Here  perished  Madame  Roland,  one  of  the  celebrated 
women  of  her  time,  and  Lavoisier,  the  famous  chemist, 
who  was  refused  his  request  for  a  few  more  days'  grace, 
that  he  might  finish  some  experiments  for  the  benefit 
of  the  world.  Some  one,  in  speaking  of  Lavoisier's  exe- 
cution, said,  "It  took  them  only  a  minute  to  cut  off 
that  head,  the  like  of  which  one  hundred  years  may  not 
be  able  to  produce  again."  Danton,  Robespierre,  and 
others  of  the  red  republicans  were  finally  beheaded  on 
this  very  spot  to  which  they  had  sent  their  victims 
before  them. 

There  are  several  other  columns  in  Paris,  erected  to 
the  memory  of  persons  or  events  connected  with  the 
French  Revolution  or  the  Empire. 

The  Vendome  column  has  an  interesting  history, 
because  it  has  seen  so  many  changes.  Napoleon  the 
First  built  it  in  memory  of  his  victories.  The  column 
was  crowned  with  a  statue  of  himself,  made  from  the 
metal  of  Russian  and  Austrian  cannon.  When  Napo- 
leon was  exiled  in  1814,  his  statue  was  melted,  and  the 
metal  employed  to  make  an  equestrian  statue  of  Henry 
IV.  In  the  next  revolution,  this  statue  also  was  re- 
moved, and  the  column  was  surmounted  by  a  huge 
fleur-de-lis. 

Twenty  years  rolled  by  and  then  another  figure  of 
Napoleon,  cast  from  the  metal  of  Algerian  guns,  was 
once  more  raised  on  high.  The  last  change  was  made 


MODERN    EUROPE.  259 

thirty  years  ago,  when  an  exact  copy  of  the  original 
statue,  representing  Napoleon  in  his  coronation  robes, 
was  placed  upon  it. 

The  Vendome  column  has  shown,  like  a  mirror,  the 
changes  that  have  taken  place  within  the  past  hundred 
years. 

The  Arch  of  Triumph  is  another  monument  of  Napo- 
leon's. He  intended  to  erect  four  of  these  arches 
throughout  Paris,  but  he  left  only  two.  The  Arch  of 
Triumph  is  a  beautiful  and  graceful  building.  Its 
summit  commands  a  fine  view  of  Paris. 

The  square  which  it  adorns  is  called  by  a  French 
name  meaning  the  "  star  place."  This  is  because  twelve 
grand  avenues  radiate  from  it,  as  the  points  of  a  star  all 
lead  from  its  center.  At  night,  when  the  electric  lights 
are  burning,  the  view  is  fine,  as  one  gazes  from  the 
Arch  of  Triumph  down  these  radiant  avenues  crowded 
with  life  and  gaiety. 

There  is  one  other  place  that  brings  the  mighty 
Napoleon  before  our  minds  most  vividly,  and  that  is 
the  H6tel  des  Invalides.  The  lofty,  gilded  dome  of  this 
building  grows  very  familiar  to  the  traveler  in  Paris. 
In  whatever  quarter  of  the  city  or  its  suburbs  he  may 
be,  the  glistening  landmark  appears. 

The  "  Hotel,"  as  it  is  called,  is  really  what  in  America 
we  should  call  a  soldiers'  home.  The  worn-out  or  dis- 
abled soldiers  spend  their  last  days  here,  tenderly  cared 
for  by  the  government,  to  whose  service  they  have  given 
the  best  years  of  their  lives.  The}r  creep  about  the 
pleasant  garden  before  their  door,  or  sit  smoking  in  the 
little  surnmerhouses  covered  with  honeysuckle.  With 


260 


THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


soldier-like  regularity,  they 
chapel  of  the  "  Hotel." 

To  this  place  the 
his  soldiers  loved  to 
brought,  after  his 
English  island  of  St. 
that  he  should  lie 
the  successors  of 
made  all  Europe  trem- 

His  tomb  is  in  the 
the  chapel,  beneath 


attend  service  in  the  small 


"  little  corporal,"  as 
call  Napoleon,  was 
death  on  the  lonely 
Helena.  It  is  fitting 
here  surrounded  by 
those  soldiers  who 
ble  when  led  by  him. 
crypt,  or  basement,  of 
the  high  altar.  It  is 


DOME    OF    THE     HOTEL     DE8     INVALIDES. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  261 

covered  by  a  simple  slab  of  Finland  granite.  All 
around  the  tomb  stand  huge  female  figures  on  pedes- 
tals, representing  the  different  battlefields  on  which 
he  was  victorious. 

Still  another  building  remains  unvisited.  It  is  Notre 
Dame,  one  of  the  finest  churches  in  Europe.  I  might 
give  the  dimensions  of  this  mighty  church,  but  that 
would  not  help  you  to  see  it.  I  might  sketch  the  changes 
of  history  that  have  taken  place  in  the  city  of  which  it 
stands  the  very  heart,  to  impress  you  with  its  age.  It 
is  large  and  beautiful  and  old,  and  has  been  the  center 
of  the  Catholic  faith  of  the  country,  from  the  darkness 
of  the  Middle  Ages  down  to  the  comparative  light  of 
to-day. 

The  front  is  most  impressive.  The  towers  of  equal 
height  and  beauty  rise  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet 
into  the  air.  To  all  the  country  round  they,  with  the 
dome  of  the  H6tel  des  Invalides,  are  the  landmarks 
of  Paris. 

They  are  noble  objects  at  a  distance,  but  it  is  only  to 
one  close  at  hand  that  they  reveal  their  true  beauty. 
For  "  from  turret  to  foundation  stone  "  they  are  one 
beauteous  mass  of  exquisite  carving.  Generations  of 
patient  workmen  have  spent  their  lives  adorning,  these 
"pillars  in  the  temple,"  and  the  result  is  wonderful. 
Every  scrap  of  stone  contributes  its  fine  lines  to  the 
whole.  Prophets,  priests,  disciples,  and  saints  rise  line 
upon  line,  about  these  lofty  twin  towers.  It  seems  as 
if  all  the  characters  depicted  in  the  whole  Bible  were 
wrought  out  in  stone. 

Besides  sacred  figures,  there  are  others  far  from  holy. 


262  THE   WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


NOTRE    DAME 


MODERN    EUROPE.  263 

They  are  gargoyles,  goblins,  and  imps.  These  are  in- 
terspersed with  delicate  borders,  designs,  and  traceries. 

The  interior  is  dark,  rich,  and  beautiful.  There  are 
five  naves  running  the  whole  length  of  the  church, 
while  at  the  far  end  of  the  vista  appear  a  brilliant 
altar  and  several  officiating  priests.  They  seem  so  far 
away  that,  from  one  point  of  view,  they  might  almost  be 
in  another  world.  The  organ  plays,  the  sweet-voiced 
choir  chants,  and  the  thousands  of  worshipers  prostrate 
themselves  upon  the  pavement  in  prayer.  Here  the 
French  sovereigns  have  been  crowned  and  married  for 
five  hundred  years. 

The  old  walls  have  looked  on  many  a  strange  sight ; 
but  certainly  the  strangest  pageant  that  ever  took  place 
within  the  sacred  inclosure  was  the  worship  of  Reason, 
held  here  when  the  French  revolutionists  had  renounced 
the  worship  of  God.  They  still  met  in  Notre  Dame ; 
but  the  service  consisted  of  the  announcement  of  the 
weekly  news,  and  the  singing  of  republican  hymns.  A 
young  woman  dressed  as  a  goddess  represented  Reason, 
the  only  object  they  now  professed  to  worship. 

Finest  of  all  the  many  parks  of  Par-is  is  the  Bois  de 
Boulogne.  The  English  for  this  French  name  would 
be  the  "  Woods  of  Boulogne."  But  the  park  has  no 
woods  such  as  one  sees  in  England.  Its  trees  are  very 
small  and  slender,  and  clumps  of  them  appear  more  like 
thickets  than  like  groves. 

The  grass,  however,  is  green,  and  is  beautifully  kept. 
Every  square  foot  of  turf  throughout  the  two  hundred 
and  fifty  acres  which  form  the  park  receives  two  gallons 
of  water  every  third  day.  Every  second  of  time  fifty 


264  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

gallons  of  water  are  drawn  from  the  Seine  for  use  in  the 
Bois  de  Boulogne. 

One  section  of  the  park  is  devoted  to  a  collection  of 
animals.  Here  we  see  leopards,  tigers,  and  other  fierce 
beasts,  living  in  the  same  circumstances  as  at  home. 
The  temperature  in  which  they  are  kept,  their  food,  and 
their  surroundings  are  arranged  so  that  they  shall  be 
exactly  what  the  creatures  are  accustomed  to  in  their 
native  wilds.  Here  are  birds  in  cages  so  large  that 
they  think  they  are  free.  In  aquariums  may  be  seen 
strange  foreign  animals  of  the  sea,  and  along  the  shores 
of  a  little  stream  that  runs  through  the  garden  are 
water-fowl  from  all  quarters  of  the  earth. 

A  tame  elephant  delights  the  children  with  a  ride ; 
and  hosts  of  little  wagons,  drawn  by  goats,  ponies,  Indian 
oxen,  and  ostriches,  add  to  the  attractions.  The  place 
is  a  perfect  paradise  to  children. 

There  are,  near  Paris,  many  palaces,  or  royal  chateaux, 
to  which  excursions  maybe  made.  There  are  Fontaine- 
bleau,  St.  Cloud,  St.  Germain,  and  Versailles.  The 
latter  place  is  most  popular,  perhaps.  It  contains  the 
palace  where  Louis  XIV.,  Louis  XV.,  and  Louis  XVI. 
lived. 

The  palace,  which  is  a  quarter  of  a  mile  in  length, 
was  built  by  Louis  XIV.  To  raise  the  toioney  for  this 
expensive  undertaking,  the  peasants  were  taxed  to  the 
verge  of  starvation. 

Oh,  the  elegance  of  the  halls,  the  salons,  the  chapel, 
and  the  theater  !  The  elegant  hangings  and  tapestries, 
the  carved  furniture,  the  gems  of  paintings  and  china 
were  collected  here  by  perhaps  the  most  luxurious  mon- 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


265 


archs  that  Europe  has  ever  known.  The  whole  cost  of 
Versailles  was  one  thousand  million  francs.  There  is 
one  salon  known  as  the  mirror  room,  because  opposite 
each  of  the  seventeen  windows  is  a  mirror,  which  re- 
flects the  beauty  of  the  outside  garden. 

We  are  shown  the  room  occupied  by  Marie  Antoi- 
nette, wife  of  Louis  XVI.,  and  also  the  hall  in  which 
William  I.,  the  grandfather  of  the  present  emperor  of 
Germany,  was  crowned.  The  many  states  of  Germany 

had  united  against 
Napoleon  under  the 
leadership  of  Wil- 
liam. After  they  had 
defeated  the  French, 
they  decided  to  re- 
main united,  and  so 
the  German  Empire 
was  formed.  It  was 
a  great  humiliation 
to  France  that  an 
act  so  momentous  as 
the  crowning  of  the 
German  emperor 
should  have  taken 
place  in  her  own  palace  of  Versailles. 

Now  that  France  is  a  republic,  no  one  occupies  Ver- 
sailles. The  empty  halls  are  used  as  picture  galleries. 
The  collections  are  mostly  portraits,  although  there  are 
one  thousand  fine  paintings  of  battles.  Here  may  be 
seen  the  portrait  of  every  French  sovereign  from  Clovis 
down  to  Napoleon  III.  Here  also  are  hung  the  portraits 


WILLIAM     I. 


266  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

of  French  admirals  and  marshals.  Some  one  has  esti- 
mated that  the  canvases  in  Versailles,  if  placed  side  by 
side,  would  extend  for  sixteen  miles. 

The  garden  before  the  palace  is  laid  out  in  set  designs, 
such  as  delighted  Louis  XIV.  There  is  one  beautiful 
lawn  called  the  "  green  carpet."  The  grass  is  so  ex- 
quisitely fine  and  soft,  as  to  seem  in  very  truth  like  a 
carpet. 

Among  the  many  fountains  there  is  one  that  repre- 
sents Neptune  surrounded  by  his  Tritons.  From  every 
shell  and  from  the  mouth  of  every  dolphin  and  sea 
horse  in  the  group,  streams  of  water  burst  forth  when 
the  fountain  plays.  As  it  costs  one  hundred  dollars 
per  minute  while  playing,  such  a  sight  is  not  com- 
mon. 

Once  every  month  the  water  is  turned  on  for  a  short 
time,  to  the  delight  of  hosts  of  people  who  have  come 
from  Paris  to  Versailles  to  witness  the  display.  Such 
eager  anticipation,  such  exulting  joy  in  realization,  can 
be  found  nowhere  outside  a  circle  of  fifty  miles,  whose 
center  is  the  towers  of  Notre  Dame. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

GLIMPSES   OF  PROVINCIAL   FRANCE. 

Paris  is  not  the  whole  of  France  by  any  means, 
although '  there  are  many  travelers  who  seem  to  think 
so.  To  the  north,  south,  east,  and  west  of  the  capital 


MODERN    EUROPE.  267 

are  attractive  towns  and  villages  where  the  people  are 
most  interesting  and  curious  in  their  dress  and  manner 
of  life. 

Let  us  first  seek  the  northern  coast,  and  study  the 
people  in  the  quaint  old  provinces  of  Brittany,  Normandy, 
and.Picardy.  The  chief  city  of  these  provinces  is  Havre, 
which  we  easily  reach  by  floating  down  the  Seine  from 
Paris. 

The  Emperor  Napoleon  once  declared  that  Paris, 
Rouen,  and  Havre  formed  but  one  city,  of  which  the 
Seine  was  the  principal  street.  Very  close  indeed  is 
the  connection  between  Paris  and  Havre,  for  what 
Paris  manufactures,  Havre  exports ;  and  what  Paris 
needs,  Havre  imports.  The  cities  are  dependent  upon 
each  other. 

Havre,  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Seine,  has  a 
naturally  good  harbor,  which  has  been  greatly  improved. 
Nine  huge  docks  have  been  built  at  a  great  expense  of 
time,  muscle,  and  money.  These  docks  are  inclosed 
basins,  in  which  vessels  are  kept  afloat  at  the  same  level 
while  loading  and  unloading.  The  water  in  the  docks 
of  Havre  is  about  thirty  feet  deep.  The  largest  dock 
has  an  area  of  fifty-three  acres,  and  the  fine  stone 
quays  that  form  its  shores  measure  over  a  mile  in 
length. 

Along  this  northern  coast  of  France  the  rising  and 
the  falling  of  the  tide  varies  considerably  with  different 
places.  In  some  towns  it  no  sooner  reaches  its  height 
than  it  begins  instantly  to  fall.  If  ships  do  not  seize 
that  favorable  moment  to  set  off,  they  remain  high  and 
dry  until  the  next  high  tide. 


268  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

At  Havre,  fortunately,  the  tide  does  not  perceptibly 
begin  to  retreat  for  two  hours.  During  that  time  large 
vessels  can  anchor  close  by  the  quays.  But  at  low  tide 
they  are  obliged  to  remain  a  mile  or  more  from  the 
shore,  while  puffing  little  tenders  carry  in  those  pas- 
sengers who  desire  to  land  at  Havre. 

When  we  behold  the  vast  docks,  the  forests  of  masts, 
the  tall  chimneys  of  the  manufactories,  and  the  dark 
cloud  of  smoke  which  envelops  the  city,  we  begin  to 
realize  the  present  importance  of  Havre.  Fifty  years 
ago  it  was  quite  a  second-rate  port;  to-day  it  stands 
next  to  Liverpool  in  its  trade  with  the  United  States. 
It  surpasses  both  London  and  Hamburg  in  the  amount 
of  cotton,  wheat,  and  corn  which  it  imports.  It  also 
imports  large  quantities  of  tobacco  from  the  United 
States,  and  cigars  from  Havana. 

The  exports  of  Havre  are  miscellaneous.  They  con- 
sist of  wines,  sardines,  silks,  millinery  goods,  perfumery, 
porcelain,  children's  toys,  balloons,  violins,  books,  and 
furniture. 

The  French  coast  northeast  of  Havre  is  exceedingly 
bold  and  rocky.  The  bare,  rough  land  descends  in 
terraces  to  the  sea.  The  rocks  show  the  white  gleam 
of  chalk  and  limestone,  and  look  dark  only  when  wet 
with  the  white  spray  of  the  rising  tide. 

Such  a  wild,  dangerous  coast  as  this  is !  There  are 
very  few  safe  harbors ;  and,  in  time  of  storm,  the  fisher- 
man's best  chance  for  his  life  is  to  face  the  stormy 
waters  of  the  English  channel,  rather  than  to  attempt 
to  reach  the  little  village,  which  looks  near  but  is  sur- 
rounded by  pitiless  rocks. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  269 

In  pleasant  weather,  how  lovely  the  beach  is  !  Dark, 
mossy,  and  weather-stained  boats  are  pulled  high  up  on 
the  shore.  Tanned  babies  and  their  elder  brothers  and 
sisters,  who  are  still  mere  toddlers,  romp  and  play  in 
the  safe  nursery  of  the  old  boats.  The  mothers  are 
either  washing  clothes  in  the  sunshine,  or  mending 
tarry  and  tattered  fish  nets  in  the  cool  shadow  of  the 
cliffs.  Among  them  may  often  be  seen  the  aged  grand- 
mothers, with  dark  brown  wrinkled  faces,  framed  in 
close-fitting,  snowy  caps. 

Now  and  then  a  troop  of  barefooted  children  come 
racing  across  the  beach,  scarcely  excelled  in  speed  by  the 
beach  birds  which  fly  swiftly  above  their  heads.  A 
pretty  fisher  maiden  occasionally  saunters  down  from 
the  tiny  gray  village  on  the  cliff.  She  wears  a  brown 
dress  and  a  blue  apron,  and  has  a  blue  handkerchief 
crossed  over  her  chest.  Like  all  the  women,  young 
and  old,  she  wears  a  white  cap  with  a  deep  frill  stand- 
ing out  around  her  face. 

A  vague  expectation  shows  itself  from  time  to  time 
in  the  little  group.  At  length  its  cause  is  explained.  A 
fleet  of  dark  boats  round  a  lofty  promontory,  and  steer 
toward  the  beach. 

The  women  and  children  troop  down  to  meet  the 
boats.  The  keels  grate  on  the  pebbles,  the  sea '  coat 
of  each  father  is  clutched  by  the  eager  little  hands 
of  his  children,  while  bright  faces  are  raised  for  the 
welcoming  kiss.  The  elders  are  busy  inspecting  the 
catch  of  fish.  It  is  an  excellent  one,  and  the  women 
and  girls  fill  large,  flat  baskets,  and  hasten  away  to  the 
neighboring  villages  and  towns. 


270  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Sometimes  the  fish  dealers  and  housewives  assemble 
to  meet  the  returning  fleet.  Then  an  auction  takes 
place  around  the  boats  and  nets. 

After  all  the  fish  are  disposed  of,  the  men  harness 
themselves  to  a  windlass,  which,  by  winding  up  a  rope, 
pulls  the  boat  high  and  dry  on  the  sand. 

The  peaceful  groups  on  the  beach  are  changed  en- 
tirely when  one  of  those  sudden,  swift  storms  comes 
sweeping  down  the  channel.  On  the  cliffs  are  several 
women,  with  perhaps  a  rude  telescope  among  them, 
trying  to  pierce  the  gloom  and  discover  what  lies 
beyond  that  near  line  of  tossing  breakers,  which  has 
become  the  limit  of  their  suddenly  limited  horizon. 
Those  who  have  husbands  and  sons  at  sea  have 
gathered  about  a  rude  image  of  the  Savior  on  the 
cross.  They  kneel  on  the  steps  of  this  little  shrine, 
and  cry  and  try  to  pray.  One  poor  girl,  who  has  a 
lover  out  at  sea,  has  mounted  the  steps  and  is  clinging 
desperately  to  the  carved  cross.  She  says  nothing,  but 
there  is  the  very  passion  of  petition  in  her  frantic 
clasp. 

If  the  boats  come  safely  in,  there  is  as  wild  joy  as 
before  there  was  wild  despair.  But  often,  alas  !  the  sea 
returns  to  the  watchers  only  lifeless  bodies  wrapped  in 
seaweed. 

The  French  coast  southwest  of  Havre  is  very  different. 
The  slope  of  the  shore  is  gradual,  and  there  is  a 
beautiful,  wide,  sandy  beach  at  low  tide.  Here  is  the 
harvest  ground  of  the  mussel  gatherer.  This  occupa- 
tion and  that  of  the  shrimper  are  filled  by  the  women 
of  the  villages. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  271 

As  the  tide  goes  out,  they  follow  it  and  fill  their 
coarse,  deep  baskets  with  the  small  blue  and  white 
shells  which  they  find  clinging  to  the  seaweed  left  by 
the  retreating  tide.  With  their  skirts  well  tucked  up, 
and  their  heads  covered  with  handkerchiefs,  they  are 
quaint  figures,  as  they  step  briskly  over  the  sand  in 
their  large  wooden  sabots.  They  cluster  together,  chat- 
tering and  gossiping  in  high  tones,  but  all  the  time  they 
nimbly  wield  the  sharp  knives  that  detach  the  mussels 
from  the  weed.  When  their  baskets  are  filled,  they 
empty  them  into  a  cart  on  the  beach  and  return  again 
to  their  task. 

The  mussel  gatherer  must,  at  times,  be  exceedingly 
wary.  Some  of  the  rocks  covered  with  seaweed  are 
slippery,  and  there  are  other  places  of  dark  slime,  where 
one  might  sink  to  unknown  depths. 

The  shrimper  is  barefooted  and  carries  a  conical  net. 
Her  work  is  engrossing,  and  thus  she  is  always  alone. 
She  wades  knee-deep  in  the  water,  and  with  wide 
sweeps  of  her  skillful  arm,  casts  her  net  and  draws  it  in, 
at  times  bringing  with  it  quantities  of  the  little  silvery 
fish,  and  then  again  failing  utterly.  The  work  is  fas- 
cinating, but  very  laborious. 

The  Norman  fish  women  render  one  very  amusing 
service  to  the  men  of  their  families.  The  beach  slopes 
so  gradually  that  the  landing  can  never  be  made  on  the 
dry  sand.  The  boat  always  grounds  in  shallow  water. 
The  women  then  wade  out  to  the  boats  and  carry  their 
husbands  to  land,  in  order  that  they  may  not  wet  their 
feet. 

The  western  coast  of  France  is  washed  by  the  wild 


272  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

waters  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  The  shore  is  as  wild  in 
its  way  as  the  sea.  It  consists  of  bold  cliffs,  which 
frown  and  tower  in  the  face  of  the  blinding  billows  that 
the  sea  hurls  against  them  daily.  These  crags,  or 
"  stone  monsters,"  as  they  have  been  called,  have  jaws 
sharp  enough  to  crunch  any  unwary  vessels  that  may 
drift  against  them. 

In  some  places,  instead  of  rocks  there  are  wide 
stretches  of  sandy  beach,  over  which  the  waves  roll 
and  break,  and  from  which  they  recede  with  a  long- 
drawn  moan  that  is  unutterably  plaintive  and  mournful. 
One  seems  to  hear,  in  the  wail  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay, 
the  drowning  cries  of  all  who  have  ever  sunk  beneath 
its  waters.  The  sound  haunts  one  long  after  he  has 
left  its  tossing  waves  behind. 

Many  of  the  small  towns  and  villages  are  actively 
engaged  in  the  fishing  trade.  Once  a  species  of  whale 
swarmed  in  the  bay,  but  now  whales  never  come  so  far 
south. 

The  fishermen  are,  as  we  should  suppose,  well 
browned.  Some  of  them  are  remarkably  handsome, 
with  beautiful  golden-brown  complexions  and  beards. 

The  life  of  the  fishing  people  here  on  the  bay  is 
very  much  as  it  is  on  the  channel.  There  is  the  same 
hard  toil  of  both  men  and  women,  and  the  same  linger- 
ing on  the  beach  at  sundown  till  the  boats  come  in. 
The  women  knit  while  waiting,  some  pacing  restlessly 
up  and  down  the  sands,  others  half  lying  on  the  beach. 

Many  of  these  people  are  Basques,  or  descendants  of  the 
early  Spanish  Celts.  In  the  Middle  Ages,  the  wandering 
singers  and  minstrels,  known  as  troubadours,  came  from 


MODERN    EUROPE.  273 

southern  France.  The  troubadours  were  accustomed  to 
recite  songs  and  ballads,  and  to  illustrate  them  by 
appropriate  gestures.  As  they  sang,  they  acted  these 
songs,  many  of  which  were  of  their  own  composition. 
Their  descendants  to-day  have  a  wonderful  flow  of 
language,  and  a  power  and  quickness  of  gesture  that  is 
remarkable. 

There  is  considerable  uncertainty  about  much  of  the 
coast  of  the  Bay  of  Biscay.  The  sea  is  eating  up  some 
of  the  towns  bit  by  bit.  The  natives  interpose  sea 
walls  in  vain.  The  sand  dunes  of  the  shore  also  have 
been  moving.  They  were  traveling  eastward,  but  the 
people  hit  upon  the  remedy  of  planting  trees  and  grass 
upon  them,  and  the  network  of  roots  has  held  the  grains 
of  sand  in  place. 

There  is  one  province  of  France  called  the  Landes, 
which  is  very  peculiar.  Below  the  surface  layer  of  soil 
is  a  layer  of  clay,  which  allows  no  water  to  pass  through 
it.  Thus  all  the  water  is  kept  upon  the  surface.  At 
certain  seasons  of  the  year,  the  rivers  and  lakes  over- 
flow, and  then  indeed  the  country  becomes  a  vast  morass 
or  swamp.  The  ground  shifts  and  moves  in  the  most 
treacherous  manner. 

In  some  regions  shepherds  are  obliged  to  follow  and 
tend  their  flocks,  mounted  upon  stilts.  I  should  think 
the  poor  sheep  would  envy  their  keepers  their  high  and 
dry  perch.  But  the  record  says  nothing  as  to  whether 
the  sheep  ^Iso  are  provided  with  stilts. 

Turning  from  the  Bay  of  Biscay  with  its  strong  salt 
breath,  we  come  to  the  balmy  country  at  the  foot  of  the 
Pyrenees.  Oh,  those  Pyrenees !  They  have  been 


274  THE  WORLD  -AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

painted  and  sung  for  generations.  They  seem  to  have 
a  consciousness  of  their  beauty  and  majesty,  which  is 
entirely  simple  and  right. 

The  loftier  peaks  are  clear  and  radiant  in  the  upper 
air;  the  lower  slopes  change  color  with  the  changing 
lights  of  the  clouds  above.  They  appear  by  turns  dull 
brown,  deep  purple,  and  delicate  rose. 

The  climate  here  is  delightful,  and  the  trees  and  flow- 
ers are  consequently  flourishing  and  beautiful.  There 
are  plenty  of  vineyards,  groves  of  silvery  olive  trees,  and 
almond  trees  that  are  transfigured  in  blossoming  time. 

The  roses  are  exquisite.  The  varieties  that  are  only 
raised  in  hothouses  in  America  grow  here  as  hardy 
plants.  They  cover  garden  walls  and  trellises  with  their 
large  red,  pink,  white,  and  yellow  flowers. 

They  are  -very  cheap  also.  Old  women  in  the  market 
hold  out  their  withered  hands,  overflowing  with  the 
lovely,  heavy  blossoms.  "  Ah,  madam,  do  buy !  Quite 
all  these  for  ten  sous."  A  sou  is  but  one  cent,  and  we 
bear  home  to  our  tidy  little  foreign  inn  a  bouquet  that 
would  be  priceless  in  America  during  the  winter. 

The  chief  events  in  the  towns  in  southern  France  are 
market  day  and  the  day  of  the  fair.  Flowers,  fruits, 
eggs,  vegetables,  and  fowls  are  the  chief  articles  offered 
for  sale  to  the  curious  and  excited  purchasers.  Such  a 
clatter  of  French,  Spanish,  Basque,  and  English  tongues 
as  takes  place  in  the  demure  little  market  square,  while 
bargains  are  offered,  derided,  pressed,  refused,  and 
finally  accepted ! 

The  villagers  become  almost  wildly  merry  in  fair  time. 
They  re,  vel  in  the  cheap  entertainments,  —  in  the  peep 


MODERN    EUROPE.  275 

shows,  shooting  galleries,  lotteries,  merry-go-rounds,  me- 
nageries, Punch-and-Judys,  fortune  tellers,  and  jugglers. 
Peasants  come  from  the  surrounding  hamlets  in  quaint 
carts  covered  with  canvas,  and  drawn  by  yellow  cows  in 
coats  of  white  cotton.  The  babies  are  members  of  every 
party,  and  their  round  eyes,  beneath  their  close  little 
caps,  stare  with  wonder  at  red  and  yellow  jugglers  and 
squeaky-voiced  Punch. 

The  Mediterranean  coast  of  France  consists  of  a  series 
of  lagoons,  marshes,  and  sand  dunes,  running  along  to 
Marseilles.  The  persistence  with  which  the  vine  growers 
make  use  of  every  bit  of  solid  ground  for  their  vineyards 
is  praiseworthy.  Vines  flourish  on  every  little  sandy 
point  and  spit,  protected  from  the  salt  breezes  of  the 
Mediterranean  by  high  palisades  of  straw. 

The  vineyards  are  not  so  pretty  to  look  at  as  those  of 
Italy.  The  vines  here  climb  by  short  stakes  that  are  far 
from  picturesque.  The  olive  orchards  are  a  more  beau- 
tiful sight,  either  when  the  tender  green  of  their  leaves 
is  ruffled  by  the  breeze  to  silver,  or  when  it  is  darkened 
by  the  presence  of  the  ripening  fruit.  Flowers  bloom 
out  of  doors  all  the  year  round. 

Provence,  one  of  the  Mediterranean  provinces,  is  fa- 
mous for  its  roses  and  strawberries,  which  are  always 
abundant.  Figs,  grapes,  and  almonds  are  also  plenti- 
ful. 

The  valley  of  the  Rhone  River  has  not  quite  the  per- 
fect climate  of  the  Pyrenees.  The  upper  half  of  this  val- 
ley is  in  Switzerland,  you  remember ;  and  a  bitter  cold 
wind,  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year,  rushes  from  the 
mountains,  down  the  valley  to  the  sea.  Lyons,  Mar- 


276  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

seilles,  and  other  towns  in  its  course,  receive  the  full 
effect  of  this  biting  blast. 

And  what  shall  we  say  of  central  France,  around 
which  we  have  been  circling?  It  is,  on  the  whole,  a 
peaceful  landscape,  painted  in  subdued  shades  of  gray 
and  brown.  There  are  vast  stretches  of  level  country, 
crossed  by  fine  roads  which  gleam  white  in  the  sunlight. 
These  roads  and  the  curving  rivers  are  bordered  by  lines 
of  poplars  which  stretch  away  to  the  horizon. 

The  country  appears  cut  up  into  small  farms,  which 
are  carefully  tilled  by  the  lower  class.  One  frequently 
sees  a  lonely  peasant  in  faded  blue  blouse  and  rough 
sabots,  either  cutting  grass  by  the  roadside  or  at  work  in 
a  field  with  his  clumsy  shovel  and  hoe.  He  turns  a  pa- 
tient, kindly  face  toward  the  traveler. 

Again  we  notice  an  old  woman,  seated  beneath  a 
hedge  and  engaged  in  knitting.  She  is  watching  a  long- 
eared  donkey,  which  is  cropping  a  scanty  dinner  from 
the  roadside.  Here  are  a  group  of  hard-handed,  elderly 
men  sweeping  the  highway  with  great  brooms.  There 
a  pretty  girl  comes  singing  through  the  cornfield.  The 
poppies  in  the  field  and  her  scarlet  cloak  are  precisely 
the  same  color. 

It  was  such  pictures  as  these  that  the  French  artist, 
Millet,  loved  to  paint.  He  shows  us  the  common 
French  peasants  at  their  daily  tasks,  as  no  one  has  ever 
done  before  or  since.  Perhaps  the  last  picture  of  the 
girl  in  the  scarlet  cloak  may  have  been  a  little  too 
bright  for  his  choice.  He  preferred  the  dull  blue  of 
homespun  and  the  dull  brown  of  sacking  placed  against 
a  cloudy  sky,  or  the  faint  ashes  of  color  left  by  a  fading 
sunset. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  277 

Scattered  over  the  plains  and  valleys  of  France  are 
innumerable  towns  and  villages.  They  appear  gray  in 
color,  as  nearly  all  the  buildings  are  of  limestone 

The  houses  are  of  all  shapes.  Some  are  tiny,  with 
very  few  windows  and  an  overshadowing  roof;  others 
are  tall  and  narrow,  with  their  roofs  set  with  dormer 
windows.  The  houses  are  either  thatched  or  covered 
with  dark  red  tiles.  Sometimes  there  is  a  most  pictur- 
esque stack  of  clustered  chimneys. 

Many  of  the  old  towns  have  the  quaintest  streets. 
We  should  not  honor  them  with  the  name  of  street  in 
America.  We  should  call  them  alleys.  Often  they  are 
less  than  ten  feet  wide.  Far  from  being  on  a  level, 
they  ascend  and  descend  most  abruptly.  They  are  so 
narrow  and  steep  as  to  be  more  like  ladders  than 
streets.  Their  arrangement  in  some  of  these  towns  is 
like  a  cobweb,  and  they  form  a  fascinating  study. 

In  the  center  of  the  town  or  village  is  generally  a 
cathedral  or  church,  to  which  the  chief  streets  converge, 
and  about  which  the  houses  mass  themselves.  The 
cathedrals  are  rich  in  exquisite  stained  glass,  which 
gleams  like  jewels  in  the  sunlight  and  fills  the  dark 
interiors  with  shifting  rainbows  of  dancing  light.  The 
lofty  pillars  and  arches  rise  in  beautiful  lines  to  the 
glorified  roof. 

Some  of  the  finest  cathedrals  of  France  are  at  Amiens, 
Rouen,  and  Orleans.  The  cathedral  of  Amiens  is  the 
third  in  size  in  Europe.  It  is  only  excelled  by  Cologne 
Cathedral  and  St.  Peter's  in  Rome. 

Chateaux,  or  residences  of  the  nobility,  are  plentiful 
in  France.  The  stately  mansions  stand  in  wide  parks, 


278  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

amid  avenues  of  hoary  trees,  trim  gardens,  and  orna- 
mental fish  ponds.  The  traditions  that  cluster  round 
many  of  these  old  buildings  concern  historic  men  and 
women,  and  also  stirring  events  in  the  past  of  fail 
France. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 
IN   SUNNY   SPAIN  AND   PORTUGAL. 

The  moment  we  descend  the  southern  side  of  the 
Pyrenees  Mountains  and  enter  Spain,  we  realize  in- 
stantly that  we  are  in  a  country  very  unlike  any  other 
in  Europe.  France  resembles  Switzerland  somewhat  in 
its  style  of  buildings  and  in  the  manner  of  life  of  its 
people.  The  more  northern  nations  have  certain  resem- 
blances each  to  the  rest.  But  Spain  differs  most  decid- 
edly from  them  all. 

It  is  like  a  bit  of  Africa  added  by  mistake  to  Europe. 
Its  dry  and  desolate  plains  remind  one  of  the  Sahara ; 
its  grand  and  lonely  chains  of  mountains  resemble  the 
nameless  desert  ranges;  while  the  architecture  of  its 
houses,  and  the  customs  and  dispositions  of  its  people 
have  a  strong  African  stamp. 

Over  one  thousand  years  ago,  armies  of  Moors,  or 
Saracens,  crossed  from  Morocco  into  Spain  at  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar.  They  had  conquered  the  Christians 
in  Spain,  and  had  pushed  their  way  victoriously  into 
central  France,  when  a  great  French  leader  met  and 
stopped  them  in  their  advance. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  279 

Driven  back  from  the  conquest  of  Europe,  they 
intrenched  themselves  strongly  in  Spain.  They  built 
cities  in  the  Eastern  style  of  architecture,  raised  aque- 
ducts to  bring  cool  water  from  the  hills,  and  erected 
mosques  to  Allah,  the  god  of  the  Mohammedans,  that 
are  still  wonders  of  grace  and  beauty. 

These  Moors  were  the  learned  people  of  Europe  in 
their  day.  During  the  dark  ages,  when  the  light  of 
learning  was,  if  not  dying,  at  least  flickering  faintly  in 
Europe,  it  burned  brightly  in  this  remote  corner.  The 
first  steps  in  many  sciences  were  .taken  here.  Whether 
she  acknowledges  it  or  not,  modern  Europe  owes  much 
to  the  Moors. 

The  northern  sections  of  Spain  were  inhabited  by 
Christians,  who  gained  power  and  territory  as  the  cen- 
turies rolled  on.  At  last,  in  the  time  of  Columbus,  just 
before  the  discovery  of  America,  the  Christian  power 
was  strong  enough  to  throw  down  the  gauntlet  to  the 
Moorish  nation. 

Then  began  a  desperate  war  for  the  possession  of  the 
Spanish  peninsula.  The  Moors  lost  castle  after  castle, 
town  after  towi ,  until  at  last  there  was  only  Granada 
left.  That  city  was  the  flower  of  them  all,  for  it  con- 
tained the  choicest  Moorish  possession,  —  the  royal  pal- 
ace of  the  Alhambra. 

For  years  the  siege  lasted,  first  one  party  gaining  and 
then  the  other.  But  the  Christians  were  the  more 
united  party,  and  consequently  the  stronger.  Granada 
was  captured.  Boabdil,  the  Moorish  king,  and  his  few 
subjects  sadly  bade  farewell  to  their  beautiful  home  and 
turned  southward  on  their  way  into  Africa.  Ferdinand 


280  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

and  Isabella,  sovereigns  of  Castile  and  Aragon,  rode 
into  Granada,  king  and  queen  of  Spain. 

The  next  two  hundred  years  were  the  palmy  days  of 
Spain.  She  was  then  rich  and  powerful.  But  in  the 
seventeenth  century  her  decline  began  to  be  apparent, 
and  she  sank  far  below  the  nations  of  first  importance 
in  Europe. 

The  Moors,  for  several  hundred  years,  impressed 
themselves  upon  the  country  of  Spain.  The  Spaniards 
were  at  first  absorbed  in  European  and  American  affairs, 
and  later  were  too  lazy  and  indifferent  to  change  the 
Moorish  architecture  or  the  Moorish  customs.  So, 
though  the  foreign  air  about  the  cities  and  buildings 
to-day  is  really  Moorish,  out  of  compliment  to  the 
present  holders  of  the  country  we  call  it  Spanish. 

Northern  Spain  is  made  up  of  broad,  level  plains 
and  low  mountain  ranges.  As  we  come  farther  south, 
the  mountain  ranges  become  more  numerous  and  increase 
in  height.  Nothing  drier  and  more  sterile  than  this 
prospect  can  be  imagined.  There  are  no  trees,  no 
grass,  and,  saddest  of  all,  no  water.  The  water  courses 
of  the  streams  are  apparent,  but  ther3  is  not  a  drop 
of  water  to  be  seen.  No  cool  ripple  is  heard  to  refresh 
the  hotness  and  dry  ness  of  the  air. 

The  train  which  is  carrying  us  southward  creeps  on 
its  way.  The  passengers  fan  themselves  continually. 
While  the  train  is  moving,  they  doze  ;  at  the  stations, 
they  descend  for  a  drink.  The  amount  of  cold  water 
they  consume  is  remarkable.  At  similar  stations  in 
France  every  one  would  be  asking  for  wine ;  but 
in  Spain  it  is  cold  water.  Then  they  take  their 


MODERN    EUROPE.  281 

seats,  and  wait  patiently  until  the  train  continues  its 
way. 

They  may  wait  fifteen  minutes,  thirty,  a  whole  hour. 
No  one  knows  when  the  train  will  start  again.  It  has 
no  settled  time  for  waiting.  It  stops  and  goes  on  just 
when  the  engineer  and  conductor  please.  That  is  the 
way  in  Spain. 

Here  is  a  valley  of  red  brown  soil,  extending  as  far 
as  the  eye  can  reach  and  dotted  thickly  with  great 
bowlders.  The  next  valley  we  enter  has  perhaps  a 
little  sparse  grass,  enough  to  pasture  a  few  flocks  of 
sheep.  The  sheep  are  reddish  brown,  very  much  the 
color  of  the  soil,  and  are  carefully  tended  by  a 
shepherd  dog  as  large  as  a  small  donkey.  Does  the  dog 
have  the  whole  care  of  the  sheep?  you  ask  in  astonish- 
ment. Certainly.  I  believe  there  is,  for  form's  sake,  a 
man  lying  on  his  back  somewhere  in  the  scene.  He 
sleeps  most  of  the  day.  At  times  he  wakes,  lights  a 
cigarette,  and  practices  on  his  guitar. 

At  intervals,  one  sees  small  crosses  planted  along  the 
way.  They  mark  the  spot  where  travelers  have  been 
killed.  Only  fifty  years  ago  banditti  thronged  in  these 
lonely  valleys,  and  hid  in  hillside  caves.  Coaches  were 
commonly  stopped,  and  their  owners  robbed  of  all  their 
goods  by  tall,  muscular  men  in  slouch  hats  and  shroud- 
ing cloaks  drawn  up  so  as  to  conceal  the  lower  part  of 
the  face.  The  proud  faces  of  Spanish  grandees  paled 
at  every  sudden  sound  as  they  crossed  these  hills  and 
valleys,  and  much  of  the  blue  blood  of  Spain  was  spilled 
on  these  lonely  moors. 

We  are  at  the  gates  of  Madrid,  but  I  do  not  think  we 


282  THE   WORLD-  AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

will  enter  them  now.  The  capital  is  the  least  Spanish 
of  all  the  cities  in  Spain.  And  I  want  first  to  show  you 
a  real,  true,  Spanish  city. 

Any  city  would  be  typical  in  sunny  Andalusia,  the 
bright  southern  province  of  Spain.  Let  us  go  to 
Seville. 

On  our  way  we  notice  that  some  parts  of  central  and 
southern  Spain  form  an  agreeable  contrast  to  northern 
Spain.  Occasionally  there  are  stretches  of  green  grass 
and  clover;  orchards  of  oranges,  lemons,  figs,  and  olives 
brighten  the  scene ;  vineyards-  appear,  together  with 
species  of  palms  and  banana  trees.  The  lower  slopes  of 
the  mountains  and  hills  are  covered  with  coarse  growths 
of  cacti  and  prickly  pear. 

All  the  fertile  regions  are  due  to  irrigation.  Water 
is  carefully  collected  and  distributed  through  these  gar- 
dens and  farms.  The  old  Moorish  basins  and  aqueducts 
are  used  by  the  people  for  this  purpose. 

It  is  not  because  too  little  rain  falls  over  the  country 
that  the  soil  of  Spain  is  so  dry.  If  every  drop  of  water 
were  used  for  irrigation,  the  country  might  be  made 
quite  fertile.  The  Spaniards  do  not  take  the  trouble 
to  study  their  country's  needs  for  its  better  develop- 
ment, and  the  means  for  supplying  such  needs.  The 
rainfall  has  been  lessened  by  the  foolish  cutting  down 
of  trees  ;  for  forests,  as  well  as  mountains,  influence  the 
rainfall  of  a  region. 

Travelers  have  declared  Seville  to  be  the  most  Spanish 
of  all  the  Spanish  towns.  The  popular  saying  is :  "  See 
Seville  and  die."  But  the  more  likely  effect  is  that  the 
visitor,  charmed  by  thje  quaint  old  city,  will  long  to  live 


MODERN    EUROPE.  283 

there.  He  will  ask  no  more  than  to  spend  the  rest  of 
his  days  in  its  sleepy,  lazy,  old-world  atmosphere. 

To  begin  with,  Seville  has  one  advantage  over  other 
places.  The  river  upon  which  it  is  situated,  the  Gua- 
dalquivir, contains  water.  It  is  not  merely  a  dry  water- 
course. Its  winding  surface  is  bright  with  sails  and 
masts,  for  Seville  has  some  commerce  to  boast  of.  It 
supplies  the  rest  of  Spain  with  pottery  and  oranges. 

The  streets  are  narrow  and  crooked.  In  many  of 
them  two  donkeys  cannot  pass  each  other.  When  the 
donkey  has  his  panniers  laden  with  fruit  or  vegetables, 
he  must  avoid  the  narrowest  ways.  Some  of  them, 
however,  have  hollows  in  the  walls,  scooped  out  of  the 
stone  at  the  height  of  the  pannier.  Thus  the  donkey 
and  his  load  scrape  through. 

Foot  passengers  would  be  crushed  as  flat  as  a  pancake 
against  the  high  wall  of  the  street,  if  there  were  not 
many  little  shops  along  the  way  to  serve  as  havens  of 
refuge.  The  astonished  American  bolts  into  a  cobbler's 
tiny  den  or  a  pottery  shop,  on  finding  a  burro's  gentle 
brown  nose  laid  upon  his  shoulder. 

The  houses  are  as  the  Moors  built,  and  left  them. 
They  are  square,  substantial  buildings  with  flat  roofs, 
and  are  built  around  courtyards.  They  are  painted 
white,  light  pink,  blue,  or  green.  These  light  colors 
glare  intensely  in  the  sunlight. 

The  windows  facing  the  street  are  small,  with  iron 
gratings  and  tiny  balconies.  The  door  of  the  house  is 
sometimes  of  heavy  wood,  studded  with  huge  brass 
nails.  Within  this  large  door  a  smaller  door  is  cut. 
This  latter  door  is  the  one  in  general  use.  Some  one 


284  '    THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

knocks ;  a  servant  comes  to  a  small  grating  command- 
ing a  view  of  the  knocker,  inquires  his  business,  and 
then,  if  he  wishes  to  admit  him,  the  latch  is  raised  and 
the  smaller  door  swings  open. 

The  entrance  to  the  courtyard  is  protected  by  an  iron 
gateway,  through  which  many  charming  glimpses  are 
obtained  of  the  trees,  fountains,  and  walks  of  the  court- 
yard. 

The  family  lives  in  the  courtyard  in  summer.  The 
court,  though  open  to  the  sky,  is  protected  from  the  sun 
by  an  awning,  on  a  level  with  the  top  of  the  house. 
When  the  street  is  a  fiery  furnace  at  noon,  it  is  often 
cool  in  this  sheltered  retreat. 

If  there  are  no  deep  wells  in  the  courtyard,  there  is 
an  abundance  of  water  in  the  small  cellar  close  at  hand, 
where  the  tall  red  jars  of  pottery  stand.  They  are  filled 
each  morning  by  the  water  carrier,  and  the  shady  spot 
with  its  dripping  stone  floor  is  always  a  cool  retreat. 

The  members  of  the  family  lounge  under  the  trees 
and  dream  away  the  time.  The  gentlemen  smoke  cig- 
arettes, or  sip  lemonade  and  effervescing  drinks  through 
tubes.  Sometimes  they  glance  at  a  newspaper  describ- 
ing the  last  bull  fight,  or  discuss  the  prospects  of  a  fall 
of  the  thermometer. 

In  the  cool  of  the  evening  the  streets,  which  have 
been  nearly  empty  all  day,  become  more  lively.  There 
is  a  charming  walk  by  the  Guadalquivir,  and  there  the 
fashionable  ladies  and  gentlemen  promenade. 

The  men  are  tall  and  dark,  and  are  usually  dressed  in 
high  silk  hats  and  great  cloaks.  These  cloaks  are  of 
fine  broadcloth,  lined  with  rich  blue  or  red  velvet. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  285 

They  are  arranged  so  that  the  velvet  lining  shows  as  a 
ruffled  collar  round  the  throat,  and  as  a  border  along 
the  front  edge  of  the  cloak,  which  is  thrown  back  for 
its  further  display. 

The  Spanish  ladies  are  remarkably  pretty.  They  are 
always  dark.  There  are  no  blondes  or  brown-haired 
girls  in  all  Spain.  They  have,  without  exception,  jet 
black  hair,  brilliant  dark  eyes,  and  a  dark  complexion. 

They  dress  in  black  satin,  with  trimmings  of  black 
ball  fringe.  Bonnets  and  hats  are  rarely  seen.  The 
usual  head  covering  is  black  lace,  which  is  arranged 
about  the  head  and  shoulders.  So  far,  you  see,  the 
dress  is  entirely  somber.  There  are  just  three  spots  of 
brightness  in  the  whole  costume.  The  dainty  little 
slippers  have  high  heels  of  scarlet,  the  fan  is  always  of 
a  brilliant  color,  and  in  the  dark  tresses  over  the  little 
ear  is  usually  fastened  a  deep  red  rose.  Such  is  the 
pretty  custom  of  the  country. 

There  are  many  romances  going  on  all  the  time  in 
Seville  and  other  Spanish  cities.  Late  in  the  evening 
the  cloaked  cavaliers  bring  their  guitars  and  serenade 
their  lady  friends.  Perhaps  the  ladies  answer  on  their 
guitars  also.  Perhaps  they  throw  down  flowers  from 
the  narrow  balcony  above.  Meanwhile  the  moonlight 
floods  the  winding  street,  and  turns  the  ancient  Moorish 
carving  to  the  color  of  silver  or  old  ivory.  The  night 
breeze  wafts  an  odor  of  orange  blossoms  from  the  grove 
in  the  court,  while  nothing  is  heard  but  the  soft  splash 
of  a  fountain  and  the  musical  tinkle  of  the  guitar. 

In  winter  time  the  Spanish  homes  are  less  attractive 
than  in  summer.  This  is  because  they  are  exceedingly 


286  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

cold.  There  are  no  furnaces  as  in  our  country.  All 
the  heat  comes  from  burning  charcoal  in  a  brazier. 

The  brazier  is  made  of  valuable  metal,  and  is  quite 
costly.  The  servant  lights  the  charcoal  in  the  outer 
court.  With  his  fan  he  drives  away  all  the  noxious 
gases,  and  then  carries  the  brazier  into  the  room  that  is 
to  be  heated.  A  small  brass  cage  is  placed  over  the 
blazing  charcoal  to  serve  as  a  fender.  A  family  can 
rarely  afford  more  than  one  brazier,  and  so  the  whole 
household  gathers  about  it  to  keep  warm.  The  cat  is 
the  most  privileged  person,  as  he  is  allowed  to  curl  up 
on  its  very  rim. 

All  Spanish  cities  are  thronged  with  beggars,  and 
Seville  is  no  exception  to  the  rule.  Strong  men  are 
licensed  by  government  to  beg.  They  usually  stand  by 
the  cathedral  doors,  or  before  hotels. 

Early  in  the  morning  they  make  the  round  of  the 
town.  They  stop  at  each  of  the  principal  houses,  shake 
the  iron  gate,  and  call  loudly.  Perhaps  the  lady  of  the 
house  appears.  Immediately  they  begin  to  whine  out 
some  pitiful  tale.  Instantly  she  says:  "Pardon,  for 
God's  sake,  brother,"  and  disappears.  The  beggar  goes 
on  his  way,  for  that  charmed  sentence  seals  his  lips. 

Beggars  are  out  in  full  force  every  morning,  and 
again  and  again  the  poor  ladies  have  to  appear  and 
utter  the  sentence  that  starts  them  on  their  way  again. 

Between  the  houses  which  he  besieges,  the  beggar 
prays  in  a  very  ostentatious  manner,  or  else  draws  out 
from  his  shoulder  bag  the  rude  pot  containing  his 
breakfast.  This  consists  of  "  green  pudding,"  a  kind  of 
batter  pudding  of  coarse  flour,  water,  and  garlic. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  287 

After  his  morning  round,  he  takes  his  stand  by  the 
cathedral  door,  and  waylays  and  torments  the  passers- 
by.  He  may  follow  some  foreigner  who  is  ignorant  of 
the  only  words  that  will  silence  him,  for  half  a  mile, 
yelling,  whining,  and  cursing  all  the  time. 

The  beggars  are  the  most  disagreeable  objects  in 
Spain.  It  is  a  disgrace  to  the  country  that  they  manage 
to  secure  enough  money  to  supply  them  with  their  daily 
pudding  and  wine,  with  perhaps  the  addition  of  a  ciga- 
rette and  an  orange  by  way  of  luxury. 

Fortunately  all  the  beggars  are  not  as  energetic  and 
pugnacious  as  the  one  just  described.  Some  spend  their 
days  in  sleep,  while  their  faithful  little  curs  guard  their 
masters'  hats  and  any  small  coins  that  may  fall  therein. 

Another  well-known  figure  in  Spanish  streets  is  that 
of  the  water  carrier.  Every  house  in  our  own  cities  is 
supplied  with  water  by  means  of  pipes.  But  it  is  not 
so  in  Spain.  Water  is  brought  from  the  open  country 
to  the  city  fountains  by  means  of  aqueducts.  The  poor- 
er people  carry  their  jugs  to  the  public  fountains,  and 
obtain  their  own  supply  of  water.  But  the  richer  people 
pay  a  man  a  franc  a  month  to  supply  them  with  water. 

The  water  carrier  usually  has  a  donkey  upon  which 
he  straps  his  jars.  If  he  is  too  poor  to  own  a  donkey, 
he  uses  a  queer-looking  wheelbarrow.  He  fills  the 
large  jars  of  the  house  from  the  many  smaller  jars  which 
he  carries  about  with  him. 

After  he  has  gone  his  usual  rounds,  he  remains  in 
the  public  squares,  looking  for  a  chance  customer.  His 
shrill  call  echoes  down  the  vault-like  street :  "  Who 
wants  water?" 


288  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  daily  supply  of  milk  is  obtained  in  a  curious 
way.  The  little  goats  are  driven  through  the  streets, 
and  are  milked  by  the  servants  of  the  households  which 
they  supply.  It  is  not  an  unusual  occurrence  for  a  goat 
to  go  from  street  to  street,  knocking  on  the  doors  of  its 
customers'  houses  w.ith  its  horns,  and  waiting  at  each 
place  to  be  milked. 

Peasants  from  the  country  load  their  donkeys  with 
panniers  of  fruits  and  vegetables,  and  drive  through  the 
city  streets  looking  for  purchasers.  Samples  of  food 
are  handed  through  the  grated  windows  of  the  houses, 
and  the  bargains  are  completed  in  that  way. 

The  poor  little  burroes  are  most  shamefully  abused. 
They  are  always  overloaded.  Sometimes  they  are 
hidden  under  mounds  of  hay ;  again,  they  stagger 
under  the  weight  of  a  lazy  peasant  and  his  indolent 
family  of  five.  The  "  Get  up "  of  the  farmer  is  a 
smart  blow  of  the  whip  between  the  donkey's  eyes. 

His  stable  is  under  a  tree,  among  the  rocks,  or  in  any 
poor  and  wretched  place  that  it  may  please  his  master  to 
leave  him.  His  food  is  scanty  and  poor.  When  he 
most  needs  his  thick  coat  to  protect  him  from  the  sun, 
his  master  has  him  clipped.  Not  only  his  hair,  but  often 
his  flesh  as  well,  is  cut  in  circles,  half-moons,  or  other 
ligures  to  gratify  his  owner's  taste. 

Sometimes  Burro's  burdens  are  more  than  he  can  bear, 
and  he  lies  down  in  the  road  and  dies,  mourned  by 
none,  not  even  by  his  master's  children. 

Seville,  like  all  Spanish  cities,  has  a  central  square, 
or  plaza.  The  cathedral  occupies  one  side.  Why  are 
cathedrals  built,  anyway?  Why  do  we  find  them  all 


MODERN    EUROPE.  289 

over  Europe?  When  churches  would  serve  to  hold  the 
congregations,  why  have  cities  persisted  in  erecting  these 
mammoth  buildings  ?  Edward  Everett  Hale  says  they 
were  built  "  to  create  and  to  preserve  a  sense  of  wonder, 
awe,  and  satisfied  rest." 

The  Seville  Cathedral  does  this.  It  is  unlike  most 
Spanish  cathedrals,  which  are  so  elaborate  and  full  of 
detail  as  to  distract  the  mind  from  the  contemplation  of 
the  whole  to  the  study  of  individual  sections. 

Seville  Cathedral  is  remarkable  for  its  size  and  its 
beauty.  Next  to  St.  Peter's,  it  is  the  largest  cathedral 
in  Europe.  "  York  Minster  could  walk  up  the  aisle." 
The  columns  that  support  the  roof  are  stout  towers; 
and  yet,  so  lofty  and  massive  is  the  roof,  they  appear 
too  frail  for  the  weight  that  they  sustain.  The  candles 
at  the  altars  are  as  tall  as  masts. 

There  are  eighty  chapels,  in  which  five  hundred 
masses  are  said  daily.  Each  of  the  chapels  is  a  small 
museum  in  its  way,  and  contains  many  rare  and  precious 
works  of  art  and  relics. 

In  the  shadow  of  the  cathedral  is  always  assembled  a 
curious  crowd.  The  fruit  dealers  have  spread  down 
their  cloaks  to  serve  as  counters  ;  and  there,  on  the  rough 
woolen,  are  displayed  luscious  melons  encased  in  straw, 
lemons,  pomegranates,  and  oranges.  The  finest  kind  of 
oranges  may  be  purchased  for  a  cent  apiece,  while  the 
same  money  will  obtain  four  of  ordinary  quality. 

The  venders  are  either  old  men,  who  have  failed  to 
obtain  a  beggar's*  license,  or  young  girls.  The  girls 
never  wear  any  hats,  and  never  appear  to  mind  the  blaz- 
ing sun  pouring  down  upon  their  unprotected  heads. 


290  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Shoemakers  ply  their  trade  here ;  while  all  the  idlers 
of  Seville  drift,  of  one  accord,  into  the  plaza.  By  the 
cathedral  they  lounge  and  sleep  the  day  away,  waking 
sometimes  to  buy  an  orange  from  the  fruit  stall  close  at 
hand.  Regular  meals  are  unknown  to  them.  They 
buy  what  they  please,  when  they  happen  to  think  of 
it. 

At  Christmas  time  the  usual  crowd  in  the  plaza  is 
increased  by  turkey  dealers,  and  gipsy  girls  who  sell 
roast  chestnuts.  The  Spaniards  are  fond  of  turkey  on 
their  Christmas  tables,  as  we  are.  The  turkeys  are 
driven  alive  into  the  market,  and  are  kept  in  a  flock  and 
in  order  by  the  whip  of  the  owner.  Oftentimes,  just  as 
a  dignified  Spanish  gentleman  has  bought  a  fine  turkey 
and  it  is  about  to  be  delivered  to  him,  it  escapes,  and,  with 
loud  squeaks,  half  flies  and  half  runs  over  the  whole 
plaza.  Children,  idlers,  and  everybody  join  in  the  pur- 
suit, and  there  is  a  lively  time  until  the  daring  fowl  has 
been  captured. 

The  place  in  Spain  of  world-wide  renown  is  Granada. 
It  is  celebrated  for  containing  the  Alhambra,  the  palace 
of  the  Moors. 

It  was  the  custom  of  those  people  to  build  their  cities 
in  the  valleys,  trusting  to  the  surrounding  hills  as  a  de- 
fence. Granada  is,  therefore,  situated  in  a  low  river 
valley.  The  Sierra  Nevada  stretches  eastward,  with  its 
lofty  heights  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  The  great 
plain  of  Granada,  the  vega  as  it  is  called,  extends  west- 
ward seventy  miles  or  more.  The  neighboring  hills  are 
clothed  with  gardens  and  forests,  and  indeed  the  whole 
outlook  is  beautiful. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  291 

Perched  high  on  a  ledge  of  the  mountains,  three 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  is  the  Alham- 
bra.  To  reach  the  real  palace  is  like  getting  at  the 
innermost  box  in  a  nest  of  boxes.  There  are  many 
intermediate  stages  in  the  form  of  courts,  gardens, 
walls,  and  gateways. 

Leaving  Granada,  we  climb  an  almost  perpendicular 
street,  enter  a  gateway,  pass  through  fine  grounds 
arranged  like  a  pleasure  park  and  containing  two  hotels, 
and  reach  at  length  a  high,  white  wall.  This  wall  has 
several  gateways,  through  one  of  which  we  pass  and 
find  ourselves  in  a  large  courtyard  containing  several 
fine  buildings.  The  largest  and  most  magnificent  of 
them  is  the  Alhambra. 

This  palace  is  worth  studying  for  months.  The  more 
one  sees  it,  the  lovelier  it  appears.  The  Moorish  work- 
men were  skillful,  and  the  Moorish  kings  were  wealthy. 
Between  them  they  spared  no  trouble  nor  expense  in 
making  this  palace  the  wonder  and  the  beauty  of  all 
time. 

The  double  horseshoe  arch  is  used  everywhere  in  the 
lines  of  door  and  window.  This  arch  is  peculiar  to  the 
Moors,  and  is  one  of  unusual  beauty.  The  fine  carv- 
ing of  the  walls  has  changed  them  from  blocks  of  marble 
to  squares  of  delicate  and  exquisite  lace.  Ancient 
Arabic  inscriptions  remind  one  of  the  great  age  of  the 
building. 

There  are  several  large  inner  courts.  There  is  the 
court  of  oranges,  and  the  court  of  the  lions. 

Within  the  charmed  walls  of  the  Alhambra  are  shady 
squares  to  read  in,  sunny  gardens  to  bask  in,  fountains 


292  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

to  break  the  magic  silence,  and  long  corridors  and 
galleried  halls  to  recall  the  days  of  its  past  magnifi- 
cence. 

New  and  charming  haunts  are  continually  discovered. 
Here  it  is  a  lost  little  nook  among  the  rambling  old 
walls,  containing  a  blossoming  clump  of  orange  trees,  a 
mass  of  rosebushes,  and  a  ripple  of  water  flowing  through 
a  slender,  decorated  marble  pipe ;  there  it  is  a  lofty, 
twisted  balcony,  commanding  a  wide  view,  where  one 
may  sit,  and  dream  back  the  time  when  the  widespread 
vega  below  was  the  scene  of  many  conflicts  between  the 
Christians  and  the  Moors. 

Granada  was  the  last  stronghold  of  the  Moors,  and 
valiantly  did  they  defend  their  all.  Granade  means 
pomegranate.  When  King  Ferdinand  heard  the  name 
of  the  last  city  that  held  out  against  him,  he  said  :  "  I 
will  pluck  out  the  seeds  of  this  Granade  one  by  one." 
He  meant  that  by  attacking  and  capturing  the  forts  one 
by  one,  he  would  in  the  end  succeed  in  taking  the 
city. 

The  presence  of  Queen  Isabella  and  her  court  in  the 
siege  changed  the  aspect  of  the  conquest  entirely.  In- 
stead of  becoming  a  mere  battle  ground,  the  vega  was 
the  field  whereon  knights  in  armor  fought  a  stern  tourna- 
ment. The  contest  was  a  battle,  in  that  it  was  for  life 
or  death ;  it  was  a  tournament,  in  that  the  warrior  was 
conscious  that  his  queen's  eyes  were  upon  him,  and  that 
his  victory  would  be  an  added  glory  to  the  crown  of 
Spain. 

It  is  strange  to  think  that  the  wide  brown  plain  before 
us  is  the  vega  of  which  the  old  ballad  sings : 


MODERN    EUROPE.  293 

"  Yet  of  the  vega  not  a  rood 
But  hath  been  drenched  with  Moorish  blood." 

Its  surface  has  been  pressed  by  the  proud,  spurred 
heels  of  the  cavaliers  of  Spain,  and  the  weary  and 
discouraged  steps  of  Christopher  Columbus  measured 
across  it  many  a  weary,  dusty  rood,  before  they  were 
directed  again  toward  the  city  by  the  hurried  messenger 
from  Isabella. 

The  sun  sets,  tingeing  the  slender  marble  pillars  to 
rose  pink  ;  the  moon  rises,  and  her  pale  light  gleams 
on  the  carved  arches,  changing  them  to  silver  tracery 
and  carved  ivory.  She  shines  through  the  arched  win- 
dows, and  pools  of  light  flow  over  the  white  stone 
floors.  Nightingales  sing  in  the  courts  and  gardens, 
while  as  a  running  and  rippling  accompaniment  comes 
the  continuous  sound  of  water  from  the  many  fountains, 
springs,  and  hillside  brooks.  The  sound  of  running 
water  is  always  heard  at  Granada.  The  people  call  it 
"  the  last  sigh  of  the  Moor." 

There  are  several  other  cities  in  Andalusia  which 
must  not  be  passed  over.  Cordova  was,  in  its  day,  a 
finer  city  than  either  Rome  or  Constantinople.  It  had 
one  million  inhabitants,  and  over  one  hundred  mosques. 

It  was  the  strongest  Mohammedan  city,  and  the 
caliphs  and  other  princes  were  accustomed  to  send 
beautiful  marble  pillars  to  Cordova,  after  gaining  a 
victory.  These  pillars  were  set  up  and  made  into  a 
glorious  cathedral,  which  was  one  hundred  years  in 
building. 

The  idea  of  the  founder  was  to  make  the  cathedral 
suggest  a  grove  of  palms  or  orange  trees.  The  marble, 


294  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

jasper,  and  porphyry  pillars,  arching  overhead  in  horse- 
shoe curves,  represented  the  trunks  and  main  branches. 
The  overshadowing  roof  of  carved  cedar  and  larch 
represented  the  foliage.  The  vistas  seemed  endless, 
and  the  nine  hundred  pillars  gleamed  like  the  white 
boles  of  birch  trees. 

The  idea  was  a  beautiful  one,  and  it  is  most  unfortu- 
nate that  the  vista  has  been  somewhat  broken  by  the 
building  of  a  choir  in  the  center. 

Olive  orchards  cluster  thickly  around  Cordova.  The 
trunks  of  the  trees  are  gnarled  and  twisted.  The 
leaves  are  slender,  and  like  those  of  the  willow  in 
shape.  The  fruit  is  green  at  first ;  then,  as  it  ripens,  it 
changes  from  deep  red  to  purple,  and  then  to  black.  A 
watchman  guards  the  orchard  night  and  day,  through 
summer  and  winter.  As  the  olives  ripen  he  redoubles 
his  care,  for  a  thief  could  easily  shake  down  the  ripe 
fruit  and,  loading  his  donkey,  make  off  with  the  booty. 

In  harvest  time  the  orchard  is  gay  with  the  bright 
dresses  and  merry  voices  of  the  peasant  girls.  They 
gather  the  olives,  and  pack  them  upon  donkeys.  The 
owner  of  the  orchard  lies  smoking  under  a  patriarch  of 
an  olive  tree,  and  smiles  approvingly  on  the  toiling 
damsels  and  donkeys. 

On  the  way  to  the  coast  and  the  seaport  cities  we 
pass  through  vineyards  where  the  grapes  grow  from 
which  sherry  wine  is  made.  The  vines  are  poor,  stunted 
plants,  supported  by  stakes  about  four  feet  high. 

Cadiz  is  a  snow-white  city  built  on  a  narrow  point  of 
land  running  out  into  the  sea.  There  are  marshes  near 
at  hand,  where  the  water  is  evaporating  and  the  salt  is 


MODERN    EUROPE.  295 

left.  The»salt  is  then  piled  up  in  great  white  pyra- 
mids. Wines  are  exported  from  Cadiz,  as  also  from 
Malaga. 

That  seaport  is  situated  about  as  far  within  the 
Straits  of  Gibraltar,  as  Cadiz  is  outside.  The  rock  of 
Gibraltar,  vast  and  gaunt,  is  occupied  by  the  English. 
They  have  a  fort  and  a  military  station  there,  and  thus 
command  that  important  point,  the  entrance  to  the 
Mediterranean  Sea. 

But  now  we  must  turn  northward,  to  pay  our  respects 
to  the  capital.  Madrid  has  a  fine  park,  with  carriage 
drive,  promenade,  and  gardens.  It  has  an  interesting 
collection  of  Christian  and  Moorish  weapons,  used  at 
the  siege  of  Granada.  The  hotels  are  good,  and  supply 
most  of  the  conveniences  and  luxuries  of  other  European 
capitals. 

Madrid  is  most  celebrated  for  its  art  gallery  which, 
almost  unknown  till  of  late  years,  is  now  admitted  to  be 
equal  to  the  Louvre,  if  not  superior  to  it.  It  contains 
more  masterpieces  than  any  other  gallery  on  the  conti- 
nent. It  is  the  only  place  where  works  of  the  Spanish 
artists  are  found  in  any  great  number.  It  also  contains 
many  choice  paintings  by  Dutch  arid  Italian  artists. 
Titian,  Tintoretto,  Paul  Veronese,  Raphael,  Da  Vinci, 
Vandyke,  Rubens,  Rembrandt,  Velasquez,  and  Murillo 
have  masterpieces  here.  Artists  returning  from  Madrid 
to  Paris  have  owned  that  even  the  glories  of  the  Louvre 
seemed  dim  and  pale  after  a  sight  of  the  Madrid 
gallery. 

We  must  not  leave  Spain  without  .speaking  of  the 
bullfights.  Cockfights  and  bullfights  are  the  chief 


296  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

recreation  of  this  bloodthirsty  people.  From  time  td 
time  the  cultivated  Spaniards  declare  that  the  nation  is 
outgrowing  them.  But  the  visitor  to  Spain  finds  their 
occurrence  only  too  frequent. 

They  appear  to  be  as  popular  as  ever,  for  ladies  and 
gentlemen  of  station  attend  them  and  take  their  little 
children ;  papers  devoted  to  the  art  of  bullfighting  are 
published  regularly,  and  read  eagerly ;  while  the  actual 
homage  paid  to  the  popular  bullfighter,  or  matador,  as 
he  is  called,  is  amazing. 

If  you  have  ever  read  of  the  contests  of  gladiators  at 
Rome,  I  want  you  to  recall  them  now.  A  Spanish  bull- 
fight is  the  outgrowth  of  the  Roman  contest.  In  both 
cases  the  exhibition  is  given  in  an  amphitheater.  There 
is  the  central  ring,  the  circular  benches  rising  tier  on 
tier,  the  more  costly  seats  shaded  with  awning,  and  the 
place  of  honor  reserved  for  the  governor. 

He  enters  and  takes  his  seat,  amid  the  applause  of 
the  vast  audience  of  men,  women,  and  children.  All 
have  eager  anticipation  shining  in  their  dark  faces. 
Two  men  mounted  on  horseback  ride  into  the  ring,  and 
receive  the  keys  of  the  bull  pen,  which  the  governor 
throws  them. 

The  bullfighters  enter.  Some  of  them  are  mounted 
upon  horses  and  armed  with  spears,  while  others  are  on 
foot  and  carry  large  scarlet  cloaks. 

Presently  the  bull  bounds  into  the  ring.  He  charges 
upon  the  horsemen,  and  immediately  runs  two  of  the 
horses  through  the  body.  He  is  about  to  seize  the 
riders  and  toss  them  high  in  the  air,  when  one  of  the  red 
cloaks  is  waved  in  his  face.  He  turns  to  trample  upon 


MODERN    EUROPE.  297 

it.  Ah  !  there  is  another  gleam  of  hateful  scarlet  in 
another  quarter  of  the  field  !  And  there,  still  another ! 
His  attention  is  thus  distracted,  and  the  two  horsemen 
escape.  Fresh  horses  are  brought  to  them,  for  the 
"  fun  "  is  to  see  the  horses  killed  as  fast  as  possible. 

At  a  given  signal  these  two  classes  of  bullfighters 
withdraw  and  another  class  enters.  These  men  are 
armed  with  darts,  which  they  proceed  to  stick  into  the 
bull's  head  at  a  sensitive  spot  near  the  ear.  It  requires 
a  keen  eye  and  an  adroit  hand  to  push  in  the  dart  and 
retire  in  safety.  After  ten  minutes  of  such  sport,  a 
signal  is  given  and  the  men  withdraw,  leaving  the  field 
to  the  hero  of  the  hour,  the  matador. 

The  suit  of  the  matador  is  of  bright  silk  trimmed 
with  silver.  He  carries  a  sword  and  cloak.  After 
playing  with  the  bull  for  awhile,  he  despatches  him  with 
a  well-aimed  thrust  of  the  sword.  The  applause  is 
furious.  Bouquets,  fans,  cigars,  and  hats  fall  at  the 
feet  of  the  adored  matador,  who  struts  proudly  about. 
He  tosses  back  the  hats,  but  retains  the  other  tributes. 

Then  the  programme  is  repeated  with  another  bull. 
The  most  shocking  sight  of  all  is  the  glee  of  these 
Christian  people  over  the  deaths  of  poor  dumb  crea- 
tures. Bulls  and  horses  alike  are  the  victims  served  up 
to  gratify  the  atrocious  Spanish  love  of  excitement. 

The  Portuguese  bullfights  are  milder  affairs.  Their 
bull  has  his  horns  tipped  with  metal  balls  to  render  him 
harmless.  Thus  no  horses  are  killed ;  and  the  bull  him- 
self, when  exhausted,  is  led  away  to  give  place  to  an- 
other. The  interest  is  in  the  quickness  and  skill  shown 
by  the  bullfighters. 


298  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Portugal  is  the  sister  country  of  Spain.  The  cities 
of  Portugal  closely  resemble  those  of  Spain,  while  in 
dress,  customs,  and  industries  the  people  of  both  coun- 
tries are  much  alike. 

Portugal  has  been  called  the  garden  of  Europe.  It 
has  a  mild  climate,  and  the  vegetation  in  certain  regions 
is  of  tropical  luxuriance.  The  northern  half  of  the  tiny 
kingdom  appears  to  consist  of  orchards  and  vineyards. 
Sometimes  one  sees  fruit  trees  with  vines  that  grow 
against  the  trunks  and  shade  the  waving  grain.  The 
cork  trees  of  Portugal  are  always  noticeable. 

Oporto  is  a  thriving  town.  Its  commerce  is  good, 
and  would  be  better  if  it  were  not  for  a  wretched  sand 
bar  in  the  river.  Port  wine  is  the  export  for  which 
this  town  is  noted.  The  grapes  are  raised  and  pressed 
in  the  vineyards  on  the  southern  side  of  the  Douro 
River.  The  casks  of  new  wine  are  brought  to  the  city 
on  ox  carts.  The  wine  is  then  put  up  in  casks  and 
stamped  with  the  port  wine  brand. 

Most  of  the  vehicles  in  Oporto  are  drawn  by  great 
mild  oxen.  They  have  most  formidable  branching  horns, 
which  often  measure  from  six  to  eight  feet  from  tip  to 
tip.  A  yoke  of  oxen  with  such  horns  serve  to  clear  the 
narrow  streets.  The  passers-by  escape  annihilation  by 
springing  into  the  shops  on  either  hand.  It  is  fortunate 
that  the  movements  of  the  oxen  are  slow. 

Lisbon,  the  capital  of  Portugal,  is  built  upon  several 
low  hills,  twelve  miles  from  the  sea.  It  is  a  beautiful 
city,  and  is  rendered  more  attractive  by  the  use  of  snow- 
white  tiles  upon  the  roofs.  It  has  its  narrow,  winding 
streets  and  its  broad  and  handsome  avenues.  Its 


MODERN    EUROPE.  299 

churches  and  chapels  are  as  numerous  and  beautiful  as 
one  might  expect  in  a  capital  city. 

Southern  Portugal  is  not  as  fertile  as  northern  Port- 
ugal. The  northern  peasant  is  more  energetic  than  his 
southern  brother.  He  has  his  olive  orchard  and  his 
vineyard.  He  also  raises  silkworms. 

The  southern  peasant  lives  upon  chestnuts,  and 
spends  his  days  herding  his  pigs  and  goats. 


CHAPTER  XVII. 
THE   TREASURE-HOUSE   OF  EUROPE. 

There  was  once  an  old  mansion  in  Salem.  It  was 
a  beautiful  old  house  with  sunny  wainscoted  parlors 
and  wide  and  rambling  halls.  In  a  cheerful  corner  of 
the  upper  hall  stood  an  old  cabinet.  It  was  of  dark 
carved  wood,  with  claw  feet  and  heavy  brass  ornaments. 
It  was  usually  kept  locked;  but  on  rainy  afternoons 
the  mother  called  her  fair-haired  children  about  her, 
and  the  cabinet  was  opened  by  her  careful  hands. 

The  grandfathers  of  the  children  for  generations  had 
been  sea  captains.  They  had  cruised  in  the  eastern  and 
southern  seas,  and  one  daring  sailor  had  penetrated  far 
into  the  polar  regions.  On  the  shelves  were  treasured 
many  strange  and  interesting  objects,  which  they  had 
found  in  distant  lands  and  brought  home  to  those  they 
loved. 

The  three  fair-haired  children  delighted  to  have  the 
cabinet  opened.  They  were  allowed  to  examine  the 


300  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

curiosities,  and  their  mother  answered  their  questions, 
and  sometimes  told  very  long  and  interesting  stories 
about  the  lands  on  the  other  side  of  the  world,  whence 
the  queer  things  came. 

The  girls  loved  to  try  on  the  bright  soft  caps  and 
scarfs,  the  boy  was  fond  of  handling  the  jeweled  dag- 
gers and  the  oriental  swords.  There  was  a  scimiter  kept 
on  the  highest  shelf,  because  it  was  sharper  than  the 
other  weapons.  The  children  regarded  it  with  a  cer- 
tain awe.  They  were  sure  it  had  figured  in  one  of  the 
beheading  scenes  of  "  The  Arabian  Nights." 

There  were  lovely  stories  about  the  sandalwood  fan 
and  the  set  of  ivory  chessmen,  that  the  mother  repeated 
over  and  over  again,  until  they  knew  them  by  heart. 
There  was  a  small  pink  shell  from  one  of  the  Caroline 
Islands.  As  they  listened  to  its  soft  murmur,  they  could 
plainly  see  its  old  home,  the  coral  island,  with  its  white 
beach  of  sand  and  its  waving  crest  of  palms.  Another 
shell  actually  roared  in  their  ears.  That  shell,  forever 
holding  the  angry  voice  of  the  sea,  always  reminded  the 
children  of  the  shipwreck  story. 

Whenever  the  cabinet  was  opened,  some  new  treasure 
was  found.  Simply  because  it  held  those  treasures,  it 
was  dearly  revered  and  loved. 

There  is  a  cabinet,  or  treasure-house,  in  Europe. 
There  is  one  country  which,  more  than  any  other,  seems 
to  hold  the  most  precious  things  the  world  contains. 
These  things  are  many  of  them  large,  — far  larger  than 
the  tiny  treasures  in  the  Salem  cabinet.  They  are 
pictures,  statues,  churches,  tombs,  palaces,  and  even 
cities. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  301 

Many  of  these  things  are  precious,  because  they  repre- 
sent the  great  ideas  which  have  been  given  to  man.  The 
pictures,  the  statues,  and  the  churches  show  in  oil  and 
in  marble  the  highest  thoughts  of  beauty  to  which  man 
has  attained.  The  palaces  and  the  tombs  are  precious, 
because  the  men  of  strongest  character,  men  who  most 
influenced  their  times,  lived  in  the  one,  and  were  laid 
to  rest  in  the  other.  The  cities  are  almost  sacred 
ground,  because  in  them  were  settled,  through  blood  and 
anguish,  questions  of  the  relations  of  man  to  man,  which 
have  become  stepping-stones  in  the  world's  progress, 
and  of  which  we  are  reaping  the  benefit  to-day. 

Italy  has  always  been  noted  for  its  bright  blue  skies, 
and  the  pure  gold  of  its  sunshine.  Hawthorne  says, 
41  There  lay  the  broad  sunny  smile  of  God  spread  over 
that  favored  land  more  abundantly  than  on  other 
regions." 

Italy  may  be  roughly  divided  into  three  sections,  — 
northern,  central,  and  southern  Italy.  The  southern 
border  of  northern  Italy  is  the  range  of  the  Apennines, 
which  runs  across  the  country  from  Genoa  nearly  to 
the  Adriatic  Sea.  The  boundary  between  central  and 
southern  Italy  is  not  so  clearly  marked ;  but  Naples  is 
usually  assigned  to  southern,  and  Rome  to  central  Italy. 

Northern  Italy  consists  of  a  remarkably  flat  plain. 
The  mountains  which  form  the  boundaries,  the  Alps  on 
the  north  and  west  and  the  Apennines  on  the  south, 
rise  abruptly  from  the  plain.  There  are  almost  no  foot- 
hills to  mark  the  approach  to  mountains. 

The  Alps  are  old  Swiss  friends,  and  we  find  ourselves 
familiar  with  their  bold,  rugged  outlines  and  bald, 


302  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

snowy  summits.  The  Apennines  are  a  much  lower 
range.  Their  slopes  are  covered  with  a  thick,  strong 
growth  of  oaks,  chestnuts,  and  beeches. 

On  the  northern  side  of  the  plain,  at  the  foot  of  the 
Alps,  lie  several  blue  lakes,  which  give  life  and  beauty 
to  the  landscape.  The  larger  ones  are  Lake  Maggiore, 
Lake  Como,  and  Lake  Garda.  They  are  fed  by  streams 
which  force  their  way  through  the  chain  of  the  Alps, 
making  passes  into  Italy. 

Under  the  fair  sky  and  in  the  balmy  climate,  vegeta- 
tion becomes  rich  and  luxuriant.  Fig  trees,  mulberries, 
and  fields  of  grain  flourish  throughout  Italy. 

The  vines  grow  wild  along  the  roadside.  Supporting 
themselves  by  one  tree,  they  fling  their  tendrils  over  to 
the  trees  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road,  which,  in 
time,  becomes  delightfully  shaded  from  the  sun.  The 
vines  form  a  thick  canopy  and  turn  the  road  to  an 
arbor  walk.  From  above,  they  dangle  tempting  bunches 
of  purple  fruit  within  reach  of  the  rider's  hand.  Every 
one  is  allowed  to  eat  all  he  desires,  but  he  must  not 
carry  any  fruit  away  with  him. 

Very  beautiful  flowers  are  found  in  northern  Italy. 
Some  are  large  and  brilliant,  while  others  are  as  pale 
and  delicate  as  those  of  more  northern  climes.  Narcis- 
sus, asphodel,  columbines,  and  tall  silvery  lilies  grow  by 
the  roadsides.  The  fields  along  the  way  are  sweet  with 
clover. 

This  is  not  a  lonely  plain,  like  many  we  have  gazed 
upon  in  more  northern  countries.  The  dwellings  of 
man  are  everywhere,  for  this  region  has  been  historic 
ground  for  nearly  three  thousand  years.  Gray  convents, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  303 

white  villas,  and  ruined  strongholds  which  once  be- 
longed to  fierce  robbers  stand  on  the  lower  hills  of  the 
Apennines.  Ancient  cities  and  small  towns  stud  the 
plain. 

Each  town,  however  humble,  has  its  moldering  wall 
and  battlements.  Each  has  its  gateway  with  turrets 
and  towers.  Each  has  a  mournful  renown,  by  reason  of 
having  been  the  birthplace  of  some  great  man  or  the 
scene  of  some  historical  event. 

The  houses  in  the  smallest  towns  are  huge  buildings 
of  crumbling  stone,  set  close  together  along  the  narrow 
streets.  They  are  usually  six  or  seven  stories  high,  and 
plaster  is  peeling  from  their  walls.  The  streets  are  nar- 
row and  roughly  paved.  The  battlements  are  covered 
with  grass,  weeds,  and  wild  flowers,  that  wave  gayly  in 
the  passing  breeze. 

Everywhere  throughout  Italy,  by  the  roadsides,  on 
the  bridges,  in  niches  cleft  in  the  city  walls  or  the  sides 
of  houses,  may  be  seen  the  cross.  The  roadside  crosses 
are  of  black  wood,  and  usually  have  some  symbol  of 
Christ's  suffering,  such  as  the  sponge,  the  spear,  the 
nails,  and  the  crown  of  thorns.  Sometimes  a  represen- 
tation of  the  cock  whose  crowing  served  as  a  warning 
to  Peter,  is  perched  upon  the  head  of  the  cross.  Many 
of  the  crosses  are  protected  from  the  weather  by  sloping 
wooden  roofs.  Offerings  of  flowers  are  daily  left  before 
the  shrines. 

The  peasants  that  the  traveler  sees  by  the  way  are 
exceedingly  picturesque.  The  very  old  and  the  very 
young  seem  to  be  the  most  industrious.  It  is  the  strong 
men  that  have  the  leisure  to  sleep  in  the  sun. 


304  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE, 

Here  is  an  aged  grandmother,  who  tends  a  wandering 
herd  of  sheep  or  pigs,  following  them  mechanically  in 
their  wanderings.  She  carries  a  distaff  and,  as  she  walks, 
spins  the  gray  yarn  with  a  deft  swiftness  that  lifelong 
practice  has  given  her.  Her  little  granddaughter 
watches  the  few  goats.  The  pretty  little  lassie  plays 
with  them  fearlessly.  She  leads  them  about  by  their 
horns,  and  is  not  afraid  to  tweak  the  old  goat  by  his 
shaggy  beard. 

These  two  are  enjoying  the  freedom  of  the  plain  ;  but 
within  that  gray  wall  at  the  far  end  of  the  winding 
road  is  the  small  village  where  they  dwell. 

There,  on  the  doorsteps,  women  are  spinning,  embroid- 
ering, or  braiding  hats  of  Tuscan  straw.  The  tailors 
and  the  cobblers  are  also  working  before  their  doors. 
Idlers  are  either  moving  from  group  to  group  and  talk- 
ing and  laughing  with  the  busy  workers,  or  are  sleeping 
in  the  narrow  patch  of  shade  cast  by  the  lofty  dwell- 
ings. 

The  city  is  like  a  huge  beehive.  It  has  its  workers 
and  its  drones.  They  all  know  one  another's  affairs, 
and  are  interested.  The  labor,  the  eating,  the  lounging 
of  the  day  all  go  on  in  the  street,  so  that  the  people 
seem  like  one  great  family. 

The  three  most  interesting  cities  of  northern  Italy 
are  Milan,  Venice,  and  Genoa.  The  traveler  descend- 
ing from  Switzerland  into  Italy  by  the  St.  Gothard 
Pass,  shortly  after  leaving  the  two  lovely  lakes,  Como 
and  Maggiore  behind  him,  comes  to  Milan.  That 
city  is  celebrated  for  two  things,  —  a  picture  and  a 
cathedral. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  305 

First,  let  us  see  the  picture.  It  is  the  painting  of 
•'The  Last  Supper"  by  Leonardo  da  Vinci.  It  occupies 
no  commanding  place  in  picture  gallery,  church,  or 
palace.  Its  surroundings  are  of  the  poorest  and  least 
picturesque  character.  It  was  painted  on  the  plaster 
wall  of  a  monastery  dining  room. 

The  room  is  unusually  plain,  not  to  say  ugly.  It  is 
poorly  lighted  by  windows  set  near  the  ceiling.  The 
floor  is  of  red  brick,  while  the  wall,  forming  the  back- 
ground of  the  painting,  is  colored  an  ugly  yellow. 

The  famous  picture  shows  Christ  and  his  disciples 
seated  at  a  table.  Christ  is  between  John  and  Judas, 
while  the  other  disciples  are  grouped  effectively  on 
either  hand.  Christ  has  just  said,  "  One  of  you  shall 
betray  me,"  and  the  dramatic  action  of  the  supreme 
moment  in  the  lives  of  the  twelve  apostles  has  been 
wonderfully  well  portrayed  by  Da  Vinci.  The  face  of 
Judas  seems  almost  to  speak  his  denial. 

You  must  be  very  careful  not  to  chime  in  with  the 
tourists  visiting  the  masterpiece,  who  one  and  all  cry 
out :  "  What  exquisite  coloring !  Plainly  there  is  the 
touch  of  a  master !  "  You  must  know  that  nearly  all 
the  painting  of  Da  Vinci  is  gone.  The  crude  blues 
and  reds  that  now  appear  are  the  work  of  second-rate 
artists. 

When  the  monks  thought  the  painting  was  fading, 
they  secured  an  artist  to  retouch  the  picture,  who 
boasted  that  he  could  exactly  reproduce  Da  Vinci's 
delicate  tints.  He  set  up  a  screen,  behind  which  he 
had  the  audacity  to  paint  all  the  figures  with  his  own 
crude  colors.  The  ignorant  monks  complimented  him 


306  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

highly  on  the  wonderful  way  in  which  he  could  bring 
back  the  work  of  the  great  master. 

The  only  coloring  that  is  Da  Vinci's  is  that  of  the 
landscape,  seen  through  the  narrow  window,  back  of  the 
heads  of  the  three  central  figures.  The  bold  artist  who 
repainted  the  rest  of  the  picture  dared  not  touch  the 
exquisite  pale  blues  and  greens  of  the  landscape  ;  and 
that  remains  Leonardo's  own.  A  door,  which  the  monks 
cut  through  the  lower  part  of  the  picture,  has  been 
recently  blocked  up. 

It  is  a  wonder  that  any  trace  of  "  The  Last  Supper  " 
remains.  The  room  has  been  flooded,  and  exposed  to 
damp  in  many  ways.  A  company  of  French  soldiers 
who  once  used  this  room  as  a  barrack,  occasionally 
amused  themselves  with  throwing  brickbats  at  the  fig- 
ures of  the  disciples. 

Milan  Cathedral  is  built  entirely  of  marble,  both  in- 
side and  out.  The  marble  is  carved  and  wrought  into 
innumerable  patterns  over  the  walls  and  roof,  until  it 
resembles  a  snowy  lace  of  the  utmost  delicacy.  The 
roof  is  fretted  with  pinnacles,  turrets,  and  pointed  shafts. 
Upon  the  summit  of  each  is  set  a  carved  marble  statue. 
There  are  nearly  seven  thousand  of  these  statues, 
enough  to  people  a  town  of  moderate  size. 

Beds  of  flowers  are  carved  at  intervals  on  the  roofs 
and  walls  of  the  cathedral.  They  are  so  perfectly  true 
to  life  that  it  seems  as  if  the  snow-white  building  had 
been  hung  with  garlands.  It  is  said  that  fifteen  hun- 
dred different  varieties  of  flowers  have  been  portrayed 
in  the  carving. 

The   interior   is   equally   lovely.      Its    windows    are 


MODERN    EUROPE.  307 

marvels.  They  actually  burn  with  the  glory  of  color 
that  has  been  wrought  into  them. 

The  view  from  the  roof  of  the  cathedral  is  extensive. 
One  climbs  a  hundred  and  eighty-two  steps,  gains  the 
lofty  lookout,  struggles  for  his  balance  against  the 
rushing  wind,  and  beholds  all  Lombardy,  with  its  lights 
and  shadows,  its  rivers  and  lakes  and  historic  cities, 
spread  out  like  a  map  before  him.  But  it  is  not  Lom- 
bardy alone  that  is  seen.  No ;  for  gazing  toward  the 
north,  over  the  lofty  barrier  of  the  Alps,  one  sees  into 
Switzerland.  Surely  those  far  away  shining  peaks  are 
our  old  friends,  Mont  Blanc  and  the  Matterhorn. 
Mont  Blanc  appears  no  less  a  king  when  seen  from 
the  Italian  side. 

Milan  Cathedral  has  cost  one  hundred  million  dollars, 
and  is  not  yet  complete.  If  it  is  finished  according  to 
the  present  plan,  it  will  cost  many  millions  more. 

The  large  amount  necessary  to  begin  the  cathedral 
was  raised  by  Pope  Boniface  IX.  He  promised  all 
the  Lombards  who  should  make  a  pilgrimage  to  Milan, 
instead  of  to  Rome,  the  same  indulgences  they  could 
obtain  at  the  latter  city,  on  one  condition.  Traveling 
to  Milan  was  a  much  shorter  journey  than  traveling  to 
Rome.  The  Lombards  would  save  in  this  way  quite  a 
sum.  One-third  of  the  sum  saved  he  asked  them  to 
give  toward  building  the  cathedral.  In  this  way  a 
goodly  amount  was  raised. 

A  recent  traveler  says  that,  considered  architectu- 
rally, Milan  Cathedral  is  a  failure.  This  is  because  it 
cannot  stand  alone,  so  to  speak,  but  must  be  held  up 
by  iron  clamps  and  rods.  That  may  be  true  ;  but,  in 


308  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

any  case,  it  is  more  satisfactory  to  forget  the  iron  rods, 
and  gaze  only  at  the  marble  dream,  which  is  "  in  sun- 
light a  glory,  in  moonlight  a  charm." 

In  the  Middle  Ages,  Milan  was  the  seat  of  many 
manufactures,  especially  those  of  armor  and  dress  mate- 
rials. Milliner  and  millinery  are  words  which  come 
from' the  name  of  the  city. 

Venice,  at  the  head  of  the  Adriatic  Sea,  is  a  most 
curious  place.  You  must  know  that  the  mouths  of  the 
rivers  that  flow  into  this  northern  bend  of  the  Adriatic 
are  deltas.  They  consist  of  marshy  land  through  which 
wander  narrow,  sluggish  streams.  This  character  of 
the  land  is  continued  to  the  northward,  where  the  coast 
line  becomes  merely  chains  of  islands  or  narrow  necks 
of  land  which  separate  lagoons  from  the  sea. 

Venice  is  built  on  a  cluster  of  islands  in  one  of  these 
lagoons.  The  islands  are  connected  by  bridges,  and 
there  are  a  few  narrow  streets  upon  the  islands,  but 
most  of  the  roads  are  water.  The  people  go  from  one 
section  of  their  beautiful  city  to  another  by  means  of 
boats.  There  are  no  carts  nor  carriages  in  Venice,  nor 
any  fourfooted  animal  larger  than  a  dog  or  cat. 

How  was  it  that  this  singular  situation  was  chosen 
for  a  city  as  great  and  prosperous  as  Venice  has  been  ? 
Surely  there  is  plenty  of  dry  land,  so  that  people  need 
not  build  in  the  water. 

You  must  know  that  Venice  was  settled  by  Italian 
refugees,  who  were  flying  from  bands  of  German  invad- 
ers. They  found  these  islands  capital  hiding  places. 
More  and  more  people  joined  the  first  little  colony; 
and,  in  time,  quite  a  city  arose  from  the  water. 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


309 


The  boat  most  used  in  Venice  is  the  gondola.  This 
is  a  long,  slender,  black  boat  of  a  very  graceful  shape. 
The  man  who  propels  it  is  called  a  gondolier.  The 
gondoliers  formerly  wore  suits  of  the  most  brilliant 
colors,  but  the  government  has  made  a  law  to  the  effect 
that  they  must  dress  in  black.  The  change  was  not  a 
happy  one,  for  now  both  gondola  and  gondolier  suggest 
a  funeral. 

You  step  into  one  of  several  gondolas  floating  by  a 

k 


small  wharf.  Your 
grim  and  silent  gon- 
dolier unfastens  the 
rcfpe  which  binds  it  to 
a  gaily  painted  post, 

and  you  are  off.     The 

motion    of    the    boat 

appears  singular  at  first,  but  very  soon  you  accustom 
yourself  to  the  easy,  swaying  movement,  and  find  it 
agreeable. 

The  narrow  canal  twists  and  turns  and  doubles  under 
crooked  little  bridges.  On  each  side  lofty  marble  pal- 
aces rise  so  high  that  the  sky  appears  a  mere  slit  of 
blue.  It  is  as  if  we  were  looking  up  from  the  bottom 
of  a  well. 

The   palaces   are   very   yellow   and   weather-beaten; 


310  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

some  are  really  ruins.  You  might  almost  expect  that 
the  rising  tide  would  rock  them  over.  But  they  are 
firmly  settled  on  costly  cedar  piles  that  rarely  decay. 
Some  of  these  stately  buildings  are  still  used  as  homes ; 
others  have  become  places  of  business ;  while  still  others 
are  vacant,  waiting  for  some  foreigner,  who  for  a  mere 
trifle  can  hire  them  for  three  months,  six  months,  or  a 
year. 

The  tenantless  houses  are  most  forlorn.  Green  mold 
and  yellow  stains  dim  the  whiteness  of  the  mournful 
marble  walls.  Forlorn  little  balconies,  once  bright  with 
flowers,  draperies,  and  laughing  faces,  gaze  at  their 
uncertain  reflection  in  the  water  below.  Some  of  the 
windows  are  broken,  and  the  bright  paint  on  the  gon- 
dola posts  before  the  doors  is  surely  darkening.  Shall 
we  hire  one  of  these  deserted  homes,  and  spend  a 
month  in  this  city,  which,  in  spite  of  its  present  ruin 
and  decay,  is  still  charming  ? 

On  we  go,  and  now  we  meet  a  bevy  of  vegetable 
boats.  They  are  blunt  and  heavy  in  build,  but  appear 
quite  pretty  because  of  the  bright  pyramids  of  vege- 
tables and  fruit  that  they  contain.  They  are  rowed 
quite  skillfully  by  boys.  In  the  basement  window 
of  that  old  palace,  a  boy  is  fishing  with  a  hook  and  line 
of  his  own  construction.  He  is  a  beautiful  boy.  His 
slender,  oval  face  is  of  a  clear,  olive  tint;  dark  hair 
falls  over  his  forehead  most  artistically;  and  his  eyes 
are  large  and  wistful.  He  looks  as  dreamy  and  pensive 
as  an  angel  painted  by  one  of  the  old  masters. 

But  now  he  sees  the  fishing  boats  approaching,  and 
a  grin  of  a  fiendish  nature  contracts  his  angel-like  face. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  311 

Here  are  fishes  of  more  positive  character  than  any 
of  those  which  nibble  at  the  end  of  his  line. 

The  boats  sweep  along.  As  the  last  one  comes 
opposite  him,  he  tosses  his  line  and  secures  a  huge 
green  cabbage,  which  he  drags  home.  The  owner 
gives  a  piercing  yell  of  surprise,  indignation,  and  re- 
venge. It  is  a  coranach  and  war  whoop  combined. 
He  seizes  a  huge  melon,  and  launches  it  full  at  the 
head  of  the  thief,  while  with  his  other  hand  he  reaches 
for  a  large  red  carrot. 

Did  the  melon  hit  ?  Oh !  why,  just  at  this  warlike 
moment,  does  that  provoking  bridge  cut  off  my  view? 
I  try  to  make  the  gondolier  understand  that  I  feel  it 
my  duty  to  return,  and  act  either  as  peacemaker  or  as 
stakeholder.  But  he  does  not  understand  sign  lan- 
guage, and  all  the  Italian  I  know  is  "yes,  sir,"  which 
for  my  purpose  is  unmeaning.  Certainly  the  vege- 
table boy  had  the  most  ammunition.  But  then  the  fisher 
boy  was  in  a  fort,  and  could  easily  retreat  behind  the 
old  palace  wall. 

We  are  approaching  the  Rialto.  This  bridge  consists 
of  a  single  arch  with  a  pointed  apex,  and,  though  sup- 
ported on  piles,  it  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  structures 
of  its  kind  in  the  world.  You  draw  a  deep  breath,  as 
you  approach  the  Grand  Canal,  which  is  spanned  by 
the  Rialto,  for  here  in  the  air  is  the  true  salt  whiff  of 
the  sea ;  and,  though  you  have  not  owned  it  before,  the 
odors  of  the  narrow  canals  have  certainly  been  strong 
and  far  from  sweet. 

It  may  as  well  be  said  once  for  all  that  the  highways 
of  Italian  cities,  whether  on  land  or  water,  are  filled 


312  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

with  most  disagreeable  smells.  Sometimes  you  scent 
the  odor  of  garlic,  sometimes  that  of  the  cooking  in 
oil,  and  again  the  odor  of  decaying  vegetable  matter. 
Then,  too,  the  homes  and  persons  of  the  poorer  class 
of  Italians  are  not  so  clean  as  they  should  be.  Venice 
seems,  to  an  American,  bad  enough  in  this  respect ;  but 
"  Venice  is  to  Naples  as  gray  is  to  black." 

The  fishmarket  is  near  one  end  of  the  bridge,  and 
here  are  moored  many  quaint  vessels.  They  have 
orange,  yellow,  and  red  sails  of  indescribably  rich  and 
beautiful  tints.  They  have  won  their  way  to  many 
an  artist's  heart,  and  into  his  sketchbook.  Each  boat 
would  be  incomplete  without  its  cross  or  virgin,  and 
the  fantastic  garlands  that  wreathe  the  top  of  its  masts. 

Interesting  as  is  a  daylight  row  in  a  gondola,  a  trip 
by  moonlight  is  more  delightful  still.  The  sunset  has 
been  a  truly  Venetian  one.  You  have  seen,  in  the  sky, 
colors  more  intense  and  vivid  than  ever  before.  The 
moon  has  risen,  and  you  push  silently  off.  Now  her  sil- 
very light  illuminates  the  watery  path  before  you,  and 
now  she  is  hidden  by  the  bulk  of  some  old  church. 
The  effect  of  the  moonlight  upon  the  old  palaces  is 
indescribably  lovely.  "It  is  like  blue  silver  on  old 
ivory."  So  it  gleams  along  our  way,  now  on  a  weird 
old  gargoyle  or  on  a  rusted  balcony ;  now  on  the  dark 
arch  of  a  bridge  or  on  a  black  gondola  tugging  rest- 
lessly at  its  moorings. 

The  squares  and  canals  are  illuminated,  and  the  lights 
are  doubled  by  the  reflection  of  the  water.  Another 
lighted  Venice  lies  beneath  the  Adriatic,  only  less  bril- 
liant than  the  one  above.  Each  gondola  has  a  light,  and 


MODERN    EUROPE.  313 

the  effect  of  the  swiftly  darting  boats  suggests  a  host  of 
fireflies. 

It  needs  only  music  to  complete  the  charm.  And 
listen  !  A  chorus  of  untrained  but  rich  voices  are  ris- 
ing together  in  an  old  boat  song.  It  is  3  number  of 
gondoliers  singing. 

The  most  interesting  group  of  buildings  in  Venice 
is  massed  at  the  square  of  St.  Mark's.  St.  Mark's 
Cathedral  and  the  Doge's  Palace  are  situated  at  one 
end  of  the  square. 

St.  Mark's  is  a  beautiful  building,  richly  ornamented. 
It  has  five  domes  covered  with  lead,  which  has,  however, 
all  the  appearance  of  gleaming  silver.  The  five  en- 
trances are  adorned  with  elegant  mosaics  on  a  ground 
of  gold.  Golden  statues  and  marble  carvings  of  flowers 
decorate  the  outside.  The  pillars  are  magnificent.  They 
are  of  various  materials,  including  marble,  granite,  and 
serpentine.  The  most  noticeable  adornment  of  all  is  four 
bronze  horses  over  the  entrances.  These  horses,  though 
lifeless,  have  traveled  many  a  long  journey  before  rest- 
ing in  Venice.  Cities  that  were  proud  to  own  them 
were  conquered,  and  the  conquerors  carried  the  horses 
away  to  their  own  capitals.  Thus  they  have  gone  from 
Alexandria  to  Constantinople,  from  Constantinople  to 
Rome,  and  from  Rome  to  Venice.  In  this  very  century 
Napoleon  Bonaparte  took  them  away  to  Paris;  but 
when  he  fell  from  power,  the  bronze  horses  were  re- 
turned to  St.  Mark's,  where  they  prance  and  arch  their 
glossy  metal  necks  as  proudly  as  of  yore. 

There  are  many  shops  around  the  square  of  St. 
Mark's,  in  which  the  traveler  buys,  for  a  mere  song, 


314  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

trifling  articles  of  jewelry  and  other  little  souvenirs  of 
the  country. 

There  are  four  cafe's  here.  In  the  afternoon  the  pro- 
prietors cover  two-thirds  of  the  square  with  small  chairs 
and  tables,  leaving  a  narrow  lane  across  for  the  passers-by. 
In  the  evening  nearly  all  the  city  may  be  found  here, 
drinking  coffee  and  listening  to  the  band.  Flower 
girls,  newsboys,  and  fruit  and  candy  sellers  move 
briskly  about  disposing  of  their  wares.  Nearly  every 
one  in  Venice  seems  to  have  an  open  purse  and  a  ready 
hand. 

Close  by  St.  Mark's  is  a  palace  of  rose  and  white 
marble.  This  is  the  Doge's  Palace.  For  over  one  thou- 
sand years  the  chief  rulers  of  Venice  were  called  doges. 
We  enter  the  palace  by  passing  through  a  golden  vesti- 
bule, and  come  to  a  most  elegant  staircase,  at  the  head 
of  which  the  doge  was  crowned. 

In  the  great  hall  at  the  top  of  this  staircase  may  be 
seen  the  portraits  of  seventy  doges.  They  were  grim 
old  men,  judging  from  their  likenesses.  There  is  one 
space  on  the  wall  draped  in  black.  The  doge  whose 
portrait  once  occupied  this  space  was  a  traitor  to  the 
government.  His  portrait  was  removed  at  the  time 
when  he  himself  was  killed  at  the  top  of  the  palace 
stairway. 

There  is  a  cavity  called  the  lion's  mouth  on  the  out- 
side of  the  doge's  palace.  In  this,  any  citizen  of  Venice 
might  place  charges  against  any  person  whom  he  hated. 
The  charges  were  examined  by  a  council  of  three,  of 
whom  the  doge  was  one.  These  meetings  were  in 
secret,  and  the  officials  all  wore  red  robes. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  315 

If  they  approved  the  charges,  the  unfortunate  man  or 
woman  was  seized  and  borne  through  the  palace  and 
over  a  small  bridge  to  the  prison  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  canal.  This  bridge  was  most  appropriately  called 
the  Bridge  of  Sighs. 

They  who  entered  the  dungeons  never  saw  the  light 
of  day  again.  They  were  either  starved,  or  flung  into 
the  canal,  or  thrown  down  through  trapdoors  to  their 
death.  When  any  one  disappeared,  his  friends  dared 
not  ask  the  how  or  why.  Their  too  great  curiosity 
might  be  punished  by  the  tyrannous  doge.  This  was 
the  state  of  affairs  in  the  later  days  of  the  republic :  for, 
in  its  palmy  days,  the  government  of  Venice  was  not  so 
severe  and  lawless. 

Genoa  occupies,  on  the  western  coast  of  Italy,  a 
position  corresponding  to  that  of  Venice  on  the  eastern. 
It  was  the  great  rival  of  Venice  in  the  Middle  Ages, 
and  time  and  again  planned  to  capture  Venice  and  carry 
away  her  bronze  horses.  A  favorite  threat  of  the  mer- 
chants of  Genoa  was  to  bridle  and  curb  the  horses  of 
St.  Mark's. 

Once  Genoa  whitened  the  Mediterranean  Sea  with 
her  fleets.  Once  treasures  were  brought  home  to  adorn 
the  palaces  of  her  merchant  princes. 

These  palaces  can  be  visited  to-day;  and,  as  one 
passes  through  the  lofty  halls  lined  with  mirrors  doub- 
ling the  rich  interior  and  reflecting  furniture  of  the 
most  elegant  types,  it  is  not  hard  to  believe  the  old  story 
of  the  famous  banquet,  given  by  a  wealthy  merchant. 
The  distinguished  guests  ate  from  golden  plate  ;  and, 
at  the  close  of  the  feast,  their  host  threw  the  plate 


316  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

into  the  sea,  that  it  might  never  be  used  again  on  a 
more  ordinary  occasion. 

Genoa  has  its  moldering  old  cathedral,  with  its  chapel 
of  St.  John  the  Baptist.  In  the  chapel  are  treasured 
the  remains  of  the  saint,  and  a  glass  dish  said  to  have 
been  presented  by  the  Queen  of  Sheba  to  Solomon,  and 
used  at  the  Last  Supper. 

There  has  recently  been  added  to  the  town  a  statue 
of  Christopher  Columbus,  the  greatest  son  of  Genoa. 
The  figure  is  well  executed,  and  there  are  many  inter- 
esting bas-reliefs,  the  work  of  native  artists. 

Now  we  enter  central  Italy.  The  two  most  noted 
cities  in  this  division  of  the  country  are  Florence  and 
Rome.  Florence  is  the  birthplace  of  Dante,  the  poet ; 
Michael  Angelo,  the  artist ;  and  Savonarola,  the  priest 
and  reformer.  They  are  three  of  the  most  illustrious 
men,  not  only  of  the  Middle  Ages,  but  of  all  time. 

The  Arno  River  runs  through  the  city.  It  is  a  strong 
stream,  which  rushes  and  roars  beneath  its  spanning 
bridges.  The  chief  attractions  of  Florence  are  its  art 
galleries  and  its  cathedrals.  The  works  of  art  are  con- 
tained in  the  Pitti  palace  and  the  Uffizi  palace.  "There 
are  literally  miles  of  art  galleries  in  Florence.  The 
Uffizi  palace  contains  the  finer  collection  of  sculpture 
and  paintings.  The  lines  of  emperors,  princes,  madon- 
nas, angels,  and  vestals,  appear  almost  endless.  The 
Pitti  palace  contains,  in  addition  to  pictures  and  statues, 
cabinets  filled  with  rare  and  precious  objects. 

Just  back  of  the  Pitti  palace  lie  the  Boboli  gardens. 
They  are  beautifully  diversified  by  hill  and  dale.  Orna- 
mental trees  shade  the  winding  walks,  rose?  and  gera- 


MODERN    EUROPE.  317 

niums  brighten  the  greensward,  birds  sing,  and  marble 
fountains  dash  their  crystal  waters  now  in  the  sunshine, 
now  in  the  shade. 

The  cathedral  and  the  baptistry  of  Florence  stand 
side  by  side.  The  baptistry  is  the  older  building.  In- 
deed, it  was  used  as  a  cathedral  until  this  one  was 
erected. 

The  baptistry  is  an  eight-sided  building,  with  three 
bronze  doors  so  exquisitely  wrought  that  Michael  Angelo 
said  they  were  worthy  to  be  the  gates  of  Paradise.  All 
the  babies  born  in  Florence  are  baptized  in  this  building. 
It  is  estimated  that  twelve  hundred  are  brought  here 
every  year. 

At  four  o'clock  they  begin  to  arrive,  and  there  are 
usually  a  dozen  in  the  building  at  one  time.  The  tiny 
creatures  have  their  clothing  wound  about  their  little 
legs  and  feet  so  that,  though  very  young,  they  can, 
owing  to  this  arrangement  of  stiff  clothing,  stand  upon 
the  edge  of  the  font.  This  standing  on  the  font  by  the 
baby  appears  to  be  necessary  in  the  ceremony. 

The  cathedral  of  Florence  is  famous  for  its  beautifully 
proportioned  dome.  It  is  said  to  have  furnished  Michael 
Angelo  with  a  model  for  the  dome  of  St.  Peter's.  When 
he  left  Florence  for  Rome,  he  gazed  back  admiringly 
on  the  sheltering  dome  of  his  native  city.  "  Yes,"  he 
said,  "I  may  make  one  larger,  but  never  one  more 
beautiful." 

And  now  we  are  approaching  Rome,  the  imperial  city. 
More  than  any  other  city  Rome  may  be  called  the  capital 
of  the  world.  She  once  held  the  corners  of  the  known 
world  in  her  hands,  and  barbarians,  thousands  of  miles 


. 

318  THE   WORLD  AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

away,  trembled  at  her  frown.  All  the  wealth  and  beauty 
of  the  east  and  the  west  was  poured  at  her  feet.  The 
city  was  adorned,  until  it  actually  glittered  and  gleamed 
from  its  seven  hills. 

As  was  the  height  to  which  Rome  climbed,  so  was 
its  fall.  It  is  now  the  one  magnificent  ruin  of  air  time. 

Rome  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a  barren  plain  called 
the  Campagna.  This  plain  consists  chiefly  of  miserable, 
un tilled  fields,  crossed  here  and  there  by  an  old  Roman 
road. 

The  road  along  which  we  are  walking  is  the  famous 
Appian  Way.  It  is  a  rough  thoroughfare,  with  here 
and  there  a  grimy-looking  inn,  which  has  a  bush  over 
the  door  to  signify  that  wine  is  for  sale.  Occasionally 
we  pass  a  row  of  stone  houses  with  barred  windows, 
which  give  a  most  forbidding  look  to  the  wall  border- 
ing the  Appian  Way. 

At  intervals  huge  mounds  appear.  They  are  the 
tombs  of  the  ancient  Romans,  and  are  built  solidly  of 
brick  and  stone.  Grass  and  sometimes  trees  grow  in 
the  soil  which  has,  in  the  course  of  ages,  settled  upon 
the  top  of  the  tomb.  One  tomb  serves  as  the  founda- 
tion of  a  house.  Another  is  used' as  a  playground  by 
merry  children. 

In  the  plain  beyond  the  road  one  catches  glimpses  of 
old  aqueducts,  built  by  the  Roman  emperors.  Here  is 
a  gnarled  olive  tree,  looking  somewhat  like  one  of  the 
crabbed  old  apple  trees  in  a  New  England  orchard. 
Beneath  it  stands  a  shepherd  in  a  woolly  sheepskin 
coat,  sheltering  his  face  with  his  arm  from  the  blinding 
dust  that  whirls  across  the  Campagna.  The  swift  cold 


MODERN   EUROPE.  319 

wind  leaves  his  lean  flock  a  little  grayer  in  color  than 
before. 

As  we  near  the  city,  the  Appian  Way  is  shut  in  by 
high  walls  of  brick  and  plaster.  Also  it  is  now  paved 
with  small  stones,  sharp  and  uncomfortable  to  step 
upon.  And  now,  while  the  sun  is  still  high  in  the 
heavens,  we  enter  Rome.  It  is  well  for  us  that  it  is 
not  near  sundown,  for  towards  night  a  deadly  miasma 
rises  from  the  Campagna.  Many  persons  who  have 
been  careless  about  their  evening  walks,  have  died  of 
the  fatal  Roman  fever. 

Ancient  Rome  stood  on  seven  hills ;  but  the  hills 
have  been  leveled  by  the  passing  centuries,  and  modern 
Rome  stands  on  a  plain.  The  yellow  Tiber  River  runs 
through  the  city,  separating  it  into  two  unequal  divi- 
sions. The  smaller  section  is  on  the  right  bank,  and 
the  larger  on  the  left.  As  the  church  of  St.  Peter's 
and  the  Vatican,  the  palace  of  the  pope,  are  in  the 
smaller  section,  that  might  be  called  the  papal  section 
of  the  town. 

The  streets  of  Rome  are  narrow,  dark,  and  crooked. 
They  are  paved  with  blocks  of  lava,  and  are  never 
flooded  with  sunlight.  This  is  because,  on  each  side, 
rise  buildings  seven  stories  in  height. 

Each  of  the  seven  stories  is  occupied  by  a  little  dif- 
ferent set  of  people.  The  lower  stories  are  given  over 
to  the  very  poor.  Princes,  dukes,  and  ambassadors 
live  on  the  middle  floors,  with  cobblers,  beggars,  and 
horses  housed  beneath  them,  and  artists  over  their 
heads. 

The  houses  were  nearly  all  built  in  the  Middle  Ages. 


320  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

Fine  old  buildings  of  the  Empire,  like  the  Coliseum,  and 
the  baths  of  Diocletian  and  of  Caracalla,  were  robbed  of 
stone  and  brick,  to  build  these  commonplace  tenement 
houses.  The  mortar  was  made  by  grinding  up  in- 
numerable precious  and  beautiful  statues. 

Blades  of  grass  and  mosses  attempt  to  adorn  the 
walls  of  the  yellow  houses,  and  to  push  their  way  up 
between  the  paving-stones ;  but  they  receive  very  little 
encouragement.  The  sun  never  beams  upon  them,  and 
a  chill  clammy  wind  frequently  sweeps  through  the 
narrow  vault-like  alleys. 

Modern  Rome  has  no  connection  with  ancient  Rome, 
except  that  it  is  built  over  its  grave.  Thirty  feet  below 
it  lie  the  remains  of  old  Rome.  The  tides  of  time  have 
heaped  the  soil  high  above  them ;  and  only  a  few 
mournful  relics  still  rise  to  testify,  with  sad  dignity,  to 
the  splendor  of  the  past. 

The  few  remains  that  we  shall  visit  are  the  Coliseum, 
the  Roman  Forum,  the  Arch  of  Titus,  the  baths  of 
Caracalla,  and  the  Castle  of  St.  Angelo.  There  are 
very  many  baths,  arches,  and  tombs  in  Rome,  but  in 
each  case  the  one  selected  is  that  which  will  probably 
prove  most  interesting. 

The  Coliseum  is  undoubtedly  the  greatest  ruin  in 
the  world.  Imagine  a  huge  oval  ring  surrounded  by 
tiers  of  seats,  rising  to  a  lofty  height.  Imagine  this 
roofless  building  partially  covered  with  awnings,  worked 
most  ingeniously  by  pulleys.  The  place  accommodates 
eighty  thousand  persons.  Imagine  all  the  seats  filled  by 
eager,  gazing  men  and  women.  All  the  spectators,  from 
the  emperor  on  his  throne  to  the  women  seated  in  the 


MODERN    EUROPE.  321 

highest  range  of  seats,  fix  their  eyes  intently  upon  the 
ring. 

There  a  fight  is  going  on  between  two  men.  One 
has  a  net  and  a  trident,  the  other  has  a  shield  and  a 
short  sword.  The  one  with  the  net  has  just  succeeded 
in  so  entangling  his  adversary  that  he  cannot  move. 
With  one  thrust  of  his  spear  he  can  end  the  other's  life. 
Shall  he  do  so?  He  looks  up  to  the  emperor.  The 
people  murmur  furiously.  They  are  thirsting  for  the 
sight  of  the  man's  blood.  The  emperor  points  his 
thumbs  upward,  and  the  people  shout  with  joy  as  the 
death  stroke  is  given. 

Such  were  the  scenes  that  the  grim  walls  of  the 
Coliseum  witnessed  ages  ago.  The  contests  were  be- 
tween animals,  between  men  and  animals,  and  between 
men  alone. 

If  the  emperor  had  wished  to  spare  the  poor  gladi- 
ator, he  would  have  pointed  downward  with  his  thumbs. 
But  mercy  was  the  exception,  not  the  rule. 

In  later  times,  Christians  who  refused  to  give  up 
their  religion  when  so  commanded  by  the  Roman  em- 
perors, were  brought  into  the  arena  and  -slain  in  various 
ways  amusing  to  the  Roman  people.  The  Spanish  bull- 
fight is  the  direct  outgrowth  of  the  old  shows  in .  the 
Coliseum. 

The  Coliseum  is  a  ruin  to-day.  Its  grim  old  walls 
rise  up  four  stories.  The  arches  of  the  lower  story  are 
supported  by  Doric  pillars  ;  the  arches  of  the  second,  by 
Ionic  pillars  ;  and  the  Arches  of  the  third  and  fourth,  by 
Corinthian  pillars.  There  are  great  gaps  in  the  enclos- 
ing wall,  where  stones  have  fallen  down.  Many  of  the 


322 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


stones  have  been  carried  away  to  be  wrought  into  build- 
ings elsewhere. 

One  can  see  the  different  parts  of  the  building  and 
picture  the  scenes  of  the  past  very  readily.  Once  ivy 
and  moss  mantled  the  walls,  and  young  trees  shot  their 
roots  down  into  the  spaces  between  the  stones.  Of 


THE     COLISEUM. 


late  years 
the  fall  of 
A  great 
Christians 
centre  of 
scattered 
blocks  of 
desolation 


it  was  feared  that  this  growth  might  hasten 
the  ruin,  and  so  it  has  all  been  removed, 
black  cross,  marking  the  spot  where  the  early 

suffered  martyrdom,  formerly*  stood  in  the 
the  arena.  There  are.  several  small  shrines 
about,  and  shattered  columns  and  broken 

stone   lie    all    around,  adding   to    the    utter 

of  the  place. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  323 

The  Coliseum  by  moonlight  is  wonderfully  beautiful. 
The  moon  throws  almost  a  purple  or  crimson  light 
through  the  deep  arches  of  the  wall,  and  faintly  gleams 
upon  the  ruined  columns. 

The  Roman  Forum  is  at  the  foot  of  the  low  mound 
that  was  once  the  Capitoline  Hill.  Here,  in  the  days  of 
the  Republic,  the  tribes  were  accustomed  to  assemble, 
and  orators  addressed  them  on  matters  of  public  impor- 
tance. Now,  the  square  is  a  mass  of  ruins,  a  mere  jum- 
ble of  columns,  arches,  pavements,  and  blocks.  One 
can  scarcely  tell  which  columns  belonged  to  the  dif- 
ferent temples,  or  where  was  the  former  site  of  many 
an  ancient  landmark. 

Not  far  from  the  Forum  stands  the  Arch  of  Titus. 
Titus  was  a  Roman  emperor,  who  conquered  Jerusalem. 
It  was  the  custom  of  the  emperors  to  celebrate  their 
victories  by  raising  arches  of  triumph.  So  the  Arch  of 
Titus  was  his  arch  of  triumph  over  the  conquest  of 
Jerusalem.  To  this  day,  the  Jews  of  Rome  refuse  to 
pass  beneath  it.  They  slink  past  it,  and  avoid  it  in 
all  possible  ways. 

It  has  bas-reliefs  carved  upon  it,  showing  the  trophies 
taken  from  the  Holy  City.  On  the  inner  side  of  one 
of  the  pillars  is  carved  the  golden  candlestick  of  the 
temple,  which  was  taken  by  the  Romans  and  subse- 
quently lost  in  the  river  Tiber. 

The  Romans  were  a  strong  and  vigorous  race.  They 
obeyed  the  laws  of  health  with  great  strictness.  In  the 
days  of  the  Republic  a  morning  bath  was  perhaps  a 
plunge  into  an  ice-cold  stream.  But  in  the  time  of  the 
Empire  their  habits  changed.  They  became  weaker  in 


324  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE 

every  way.  They  cared  no  longer  for  cold  and  sudden 
plunges ;  tepid  and  warm  baths  suited  them  better. 

Elaborate  bath  houses  were  built  by  the  emperors. 
They  were  like  club  houses.  They  contained  libraries 
and  gymnasiums,  in  addition  to  most  elegant  arrange- 
ments for  all  kinds  of  baths.  The  Roman  dandy  in  the 
time  of  Augustus  used  to  spend  most  of  his  day  in  one 
of  these  places,  and  hours  were  devoted  to  elaborate 
series  of  baths. 

Though  the  baths  of  the  emperors  Caracalla  and 
Diocletian  have  served  as  quarries  to  the  modern  build- 
ers, they  still  indicate  to  us  to-day  their  former  size 
and  magnificence. 

All  the  buildings  visited  thus  far  have  been  on  the 
left  bank  of  the  Tiber.  To  reach  the  Castle  of  St. 
Angelo,  we  must  cross  the  muddy  river.  The  Emperor 
Hadrian  erected  this  huge  round  building  to  serve  as  a 
tomb  for  himself  and  his  descendants.  Urns  of  por- 
phyry containing  their  ashes  stood  in  the  principal 
room  of  the  northern  fortress  for  many  years. 

When  the  northern  barbarians  conquered  Rome,  they 
had  no  respect  for  the  tomb  of  the  ancient  emperors, 
and  changed  it  to  a  fortress.  It  has  remained  a  fortress 
ever  since. 

St.  Peter's  and  the  Vatican  may  be  considered  as 
representing,  not  only  the  Middle  Ages,  but  also  the 
present  time. 

St.  Peter's,  the  principal  church  in  the  wide  world, 
is  now  before  us.  The  building  is  in  the  shape  of  a 
cross.  The  dimensions,  roughly  stated,  are  seven  hun- 
dred feet  long  by  four  hundred  and  fifty  feet  broad. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  325 

Just  above  the  place  where  the  four  lines  of  the  cross 
meet  is  the  dome.  Tremendous  and  vast  as  it  is,  it 
does  not  quite  come  up  to  the  huge,  vague  bubble  we 
had  shaped  in  our  minds.  There  are,  besides,  two 
lesser  domes  and  six  very  small  ones. 

The  front  of  St.  Peter's  is  somewhat  like  the  fagade 
of  a  Roman  palace.  It  has  many  pillars,  and  arching 
entrance  ways  that  are  approached  by  a  wide  flight  of 
shallow  steps.  From  each  end  of  the  front  of  St. 
Peter's  extends  a  long  colonnade,  or  covered  archway 
supported  by  pillars.  At  some  little  distance  from  the 
church,  this  archway  curves  outward  and  then  inward 
again.  Viewed  from  the  church  roof,  the  colonnades 
appear  like  huge  sickles,  with  their  handles  joining  the 
church  and  their  blades  enclosing  the  square,  or  piazza, 
before  the  church. 

On  feast  days  throngs  of  people  crowd  the  piazza  and 
the  colonnades.  In  the  center  of  the  square  stands  an 
Egyptian  obelisk. 

Entering  St.  Peter's,  we  find  ourselves  in  a  glory  of 
purple  and  crimson  and  gold.  The  vast  dome  rounds 
itself  four  hundred  feet  above  us.  The-  cupola  is  deco- 
rated with  paintings  of  the  evangelists.  They  seem 
life  size ;  but  the  pen  alone,  in  the  hand  of  Luke,  is 
seven  feet  long.  Wonderful  indeed  must  have  been 
the  art  that  could  calculate  so  accurately  the  propor- 
tions of  these  figures ! 

The  four  columns  supporting  the  dome  are  seventy 
feet  in  circumference.  A  church  has  been  erected  in 
Rome  the  exact  size  of  one  of  them. 

The   windows   are    imprisoned    rainbows;    and    the 


326  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

carvings  on  pillar,  wall,  and  shrine,  are  exquisitely 
executed,  and  richly  adorned  with  gems.  The  pave- 
ment is  a  mosaic  of  marble  of  many  colors.  The 
chapels,  shrines,  and  confessionals  along  the  wall  of 
the  vast  interior  are  themselves  the  size  of  churches. 

We  also  notice  the  tombs  of  the  popes  with  the 
carved  figure  of  the  occupant  seated  upon  each,  its 
hands  extended  in  blessing.  Here  is  a  statue  of  St. 
Peter,  twelve  feet  high. 

The  people  in  the  church  appear  like  mere  dolls. 
Ten  thousand  people  could  easily  be  lost  sight  of 
in  the  vast  interior.  Let  one  hundred  thousand 
people  enter,  and  still  the  church  would  not  appear 
crowded. 

It  is  when  one  gazes  and  thinks,  and  compares  the 
size  of  known  objects  with  unknown,  that  he  begins  to 
comprehend  the  immensity  of  St.  Peter's.  Then  the 
latent  feeling  of  disappointment  passes  away  forever ; 
and,  in  its  place,  remains  a  profound  satisfaction  and  a 
strong  admiration  for  Michael  Angelo  and  all  the  great 
men  of  his  time  who  were  concerned  in  building  this 
eighth  wonder  of  the  world. 

In  England  the  minister's  house  is  generally  placed 
near  the  church.  The  Vatican,  or  palace  of  the  pope, 
stands  close  beside  St.  Peter's.  It  is  reached  by  a  pas- 
sage leading  from  the  colonnade  on  the  right.  It  is  a 
vast,  rambling  building,  with  two  hundred  staircases 
and  several  thousand  rooms. 

The  Vatican  contains  some  of  the  choicest  treasures 
of  art.  The  original  statues  of  Apollo  Belvidere  and 
Ariadne  are  here. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  327 

Apollo  is  represented  standing  and  drawing  a  bow. 
The  face  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  There  is  a  dauntless 
poise  of  the  head,  a  fearless  look  in  the  eyes,  and  a 
brave,  free  curl  to  the  lip.  He  is  a  god,  a  man  to  whom 
has  been  given  the  lordship  over  the  beasts  of  the 
forest.  He  looks,  and  is,  their  master. 

Ariadne  was  a  lovely  woman  of  long  ago.  She  is 
represented  sleeping  upon  a  rock,  in  a  graceful  attitude. 
The  fall  of  the  drapery  has  been  the  wonder  and  admi- 
ration of  artists  for  centuries. 

Naples  is,  as  one  of  its  poets  has  said,  "  a  little  piece 
of  heaven  on  earth."  Its  climate  is  mild  and  delight- 
ful, and  its  bay  is  famed  for  beauty.  The  water  is 
a  dazzling  blue,  and  so  clear  that  silvery  weeds  and 
delicate  sea  anemones  and  branching  coral  may  be 
seen  waving  on  the  ocean  floor,  in  water  one  hun- 
dred feet  deep.  The  curve  of  the  bay  is  a  perfect 
crescent.  Several  rocky  islands  stud  the  mouth  of  the 
bay. 

Naples  lies  in  the  center  of  the  curve,  with  one  long 
tongue  of  land  to  the  left  and  one  to  the  right.  The 
view  of  the  whole  locality  from  the  sea  is  striking.  To 
the  left  are  high  hills  covered  with  green  trees;  then 
comes  the  white  uphill  town  of  Naples  ;  then  the  coal- 
black  sugar  loaf  of  Mount  Vesuvius,  with  white,  yel- 
low, rose,  and  blue  houses  scattered  over  its  dark  sides. 
Following  the  curve  farther  to  the  west,  we  come  to 
Sorrento  and  the  sharp  headland  looking  off  toward 
the  rocky  island  of  Capri.  Over  all  bends  the  bluest 
Italian  sky,  seeming  to  lend  a  softness  to  objects  beneath 
it  that  is  never  seen  elsewhere. 


328  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Nature  smiles  warmly  here  on  every  growing  plant. 
Though  there  are  months  when  it  never  rains,  yet  the 
vegetation  does  not  fade  and  droop.  The  soil  is  of  a 
volcanic  nature,  and  so  light  that  the  plants  send  their 
roots  forty  feet  below  the  surface  of  the  earth,  where 
they  find  nourishment. 

The  orange  and  lemon  trees  are  laden  with  golden 
fruit ;  the  fig  trees  are  black  with  figs ;  the  olive  and 
mulberry  trees  are  equally  generous  to  man.  The 
grapevines  run  from  tree  to  tree ;  they  embower  the 
roads,  and  drop  tempting  offerings  at  the  feet  of 
travelers. 

Each  lovely  little  cottage  in  the  neighborhood  of 
Naples  is  covered  with  climbing  roses  or  with  jessa- 
mine. The  heliotropes  and  geraniums  before  its  door 
are  loaded  with  blossoms. 

In  the  heart  of  all  this  beauty  is  Naples.  And  her 
people,  as  one  might  expect,  are  happy.  They  glory 
in  the  sky,  the  bay,  the  sunshine.  They  laugh,  they 
chatter,  they  go  on  picnics.  It  doesn't  matter  if  they 
are  poor,  and  are  penned  by  the  dozen  into  damp  cel- 
lars. The  day  is  warm  and  bright ;  it  has  twelve 
hours ;  and  each  of  these  hours  is  a  blessing  to  man- 
kind. 

So  the  Neapolitan  gestures  and  laughs  as  gayly  as 
the  day  is  long.  He  exults  in  the  glory  of  color  all 
about  him,  and  in  the  music  of  the  mandolin  and  the 
bagpipe,  played  by  wandering  minstrels  for  his  enter- 
tainment, as  he  lies  with  eyes  half  shut  on  the  sunny 
side  of  a  wall.  Asleep  ?  O  no  !  His  appreciation  of  his 
ease  would  not  be  so  indolently  perfect  in  that  case. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  329 

Naples  has  been  changed  by  the  influence  of  for- 
eigners less  than  any  Italian  city.  The  Neapolitans 
are  a  very  conservative  people,  and  have  made  no  ad- 
vance in  business  methods  for  the  last  hundred  years. 
Their  dress  is  exactly  as  picturesque  and  as  brilliantly 
quaint  as  it  was  in  1800. 

The  children  and  young  girls  are  remarkably  beauti- 
ful. Their  eyes  are  black  and  very  soft.  Their  feat- 
ures are  good,  and  their  delicate  oval  faces  are  of  a  clear 
olive  tint. 

The  streets  of  Naples  are  very  much  like  those  of 
other  Italian  cities.  They  are  narrow  passages  paved 
with  lava  and  shaded  by  lofty  houses,  in  which  the 
richer  people  live  at  the  top,  and  the  poorer  people  at 
the  bottom.  A  family  of  a  dozen  will  occupy  a  room 
of  moderate  size  on  the  ground  floor,  and  perhaps  take 
boarders. 

As  their  single  room  is  filled  with  beds,  their  cooking 
stove  with  its  pots  and  pans,  and  any  other  articles  of 
furniture  they  may  possess,  stand  on  the  pavement. 
The  cooking,  eating,  gossiping,  and  card  playing  all 
take  place  in  the  street. 

In  and  out  among  these  household  goods  wander  the 
peddlers  of  vegetables  and  fruits.  Each  is  followed  by 
his  donkey,  carrying  panniers  heavily  loaded  with  red 
tomatoes,  dark  plums,  or  green  figs.  The  contents  of 
the  panniers  are  protected  from  the  severe  heat  of  the 
sun  by  evergreen  boughs. 

A  housewife  leans  from  a  window  that  is  draped  with 
the  family  washing.  She  wishes  to  look  at  figs.  She 
lowers  a  basket  in  which  the  fruit  dealer  places  samples. 


330  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Up  goes  the  basket  among  the  flapping  garments  of  linen. 
The  contents  seem  to  satisfy  her,  for  she  returns  the  bas- 
ket to  be  filled  with  the  luscious  fruit.  All  the  bargaining 
and  the  raising  and  the  lowering  of  the  basket  have  been 
accompanied  by  enthusiastic  gestures  and  shrill  cries. 

Rude  carts  drawn  by  mules,  donkeys,  or  bullocks,  and, 
in  some  cases,  by  all  three  animals  together,  bump  their 
way  through  the  narrow  street. 

A  tinkle  of  bells  is  heard,  and  the  milkmen  appear. 
They  stop  at  the  little  counter  of  the  water  seller,  and 
have  him  prepare  them  a  cooling  drink  from  his  little 
bottles  of  essences  and  his  small  barrels  Of  ferruginous 
and  sulphurous  waters. 

One  man  has  charge  of  several  goats  linked  in  pairs. 
The  other  is  driving  cows.  The  animals  go  the  rounds 
of  the  town,  and  are  milked  in  the  presence  of  their 
master's  customers. 

It  is  a  wonder  that,  among  so  many  passing  animals, 
the  tiny,  toddling  children,  running  about  with  scarcely 
a  rag.  on  their  shapely  little  bodies,  are  not  crushed. 
But  no  accident  seems  to  happen.  The  tailor  father 
rarely  lifts  his  eyes  from  his  work ;  and  the  mother 
takes  her  stock  of  potatoes  and  goes  down  the  street  to 
join  a  group  of  equally  serene  mothers,  all  preparing 
their  dinners  together. 

In  the  cool  of  the  afternoon,  the  people  of  Naples 
•usually  ride  along  the  shore.  Every  one  rides  in  Naples, 
even  the  very  poorest.  We  take  our  landlady's  coach 
and  set  off. 

Perhaps  never  before  have  you  ridden  in  such  a  gor- 
geous equipage.  The  harness  is  gilded  and  decorated 


MODERN    EUROPE.  331 

with  bright  pompons.  The  coachman  is  dressed  in 
gray  with  a  blue  cockade  fastened  to  the  side  of  his 
gray  felt  hat.  We  dash  on  past  houses  of  yellow  and 
pink  with  blue  and  green  blinds,  that  in  any  other  city 
but  Naples  would  be  glaringly  out  of  taste.  Here  they 
seem  perfectly  in  harmony  with  the  vivid  colors  of 
nature  surrounding  them. 

Earlier  in  the  day  we  might  have  beheld  sixteen  or 
eighteen  people  upon  a  rickety  old  coach  drawn  by  one 
feeble  donkey.  This  curious  company,  made  up  of 
monks,  priests,  tradesmen,  porters,  women,  and  children, 
were  setting  off  to  picnic  either  by  the  tomb  of  Virgil 
or  in  the  neighborhood  of  Lake  Avernus. 

The  drive  along  the  shore  to  Sorrento  is  charming. 
One  passes  through  the  quarter  of  the  town  where 
macaroni  is  manufactured.  Macaroni  is  simply  a  mixt- 
ure of  meal  and  water,  prepared  for  the  market  by  the 
action  of  machinery. 

First  the  moistened  meal  is  beaten  by  a  great  wooden 
beam.  Then  it  is  transferred  to  a  press,  the  floor  of 
which  consists  of  a  plate  riddled  with  small  holes, 
through  which  the  material  is  forced  by  the  action  of  a 
lever.  After  passing  through  the  holes,  it  is  in  the 
form  in  which  it  comes  to  us. 

The  ribbons  of  macaroni  are  at  first  moist  and  limp, 
and,  in  order  that  they  may  dry,  they  are  thrown  across 
large  poles.  After  remaining  exposed  for  a  while  to 
the  action  of  the  air,  they  become  brittle,  as  we  are 
accustomed  to  see  them.  The  size  and  shape  of  the 
holes  in  the  plate  through  which  the  macaroni  is  passed 
determine  the  kind  of  macaroni. 


332  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Mount  Vesuvius  adds  impressiveness  to  the  view  of 
Naples.  Its  cone  forms  a  dark  and  threatening  back- 
ground, serving  as  a  strong  contrast  to  the  joyous  beauty 
of  most  of  the  picture. 

The  slopes  of  the  volcano  are  covered  with  ashes  and 
pumice ;  rivers  of  hot  lava  run  down  its  sides,  and  the 
path  up  the  mountain  is  rendered  rugged  by  the  great 
knots,  and  loops,  and  congealed  falls  of  lava,  which  were 
once  red  hot  but  have  now  cooled.  From  the  crater  are 
always  rising  steam  and  ashes,  which  appear  as  a  pillar  of 
smoke  by  day  and  a  pillar  of  fire  by  night.  Imagine  the 
beauty  the  fiery  cloud  lends  to  the  sunset  over  the  bay. 

It  seems  to  the  traveler  strange  that  people  dare  to 
locate  their  houses  on  the  very  sides  of  this  great  chim- 
ney of  the  earth.  It  is  as  if  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum 
had  never  been.  Eighteen  hundred  years  ago  they  were 
prosperous  and  flourishing  cities.  Pompeii  especially 
was  a  courtly  city,  and  nobles  from  Rome  used  to  enjoy 
months  in  this  bright  haunt  by  the  Bay  of  Naples,  beau- 
tiful then  as  now. 

The  great  eruption  came  when  Pompeii  was  enjoying 
a  holiday,  and  all  the  world  had  gone  to  the  amphithea- 
ter to  behold  a  gladiatorial  fight.  The  day  was  warm, 
but  perfect ;  the  sky  was  blue,  flecked  here  and  there 
with  fleecy  clouds,  one  of  which  rested  on  Vesuvius. 
In  the  afternoon,  just  as  interest  in  the  combats  was  at 
its  height,  a  huge  column  of  water,  like  a  pine  tree  in 
shape,  sprang  aloft  from  the  volcano. 

Then  a  scorching  shower  of  ashes  began  to  fall ;  and 
the  ground  trembled  with  earthquake  shocks.  Showers 
of  burning  stones  followed,  and  many  portions  of  the 


MODERN    EUROPE.  333 

city  took  fire.  Next,  and  most  frightful  of  all,  thick 
darkness  fell  upon  the  doomed  cities. 

People  hurried  through  the  streets  by  the  dim  light. 
Presently  they  were  obliged  to  grope  their  way,  then 
they  lost  their  way,  and  fell  down  in  despair,  to  be 
quickly  covered  with  the  storm  of  ashes.  Some  fled 
into  the  open  country ;  others  embarked  upon  the  bay. 
These  people  were  saved. 

They  who  had  lingered  in  the  city,  either  to  rescue 
their  dear  ones  or  to  secure  their  wealth,  were  lost. 
Those  who  decided  to  wait  the  passing  of  the  storm  in 
their  homes,  either  were  buried  alive  or  perished  from 
the  gases  that  rose  from  the  yawning  crevices  made  by 
the  earthquake.  Pompeii  and  Herculaneum  became 
tombs  sealed  with  lava,  and  after  a  while  the  world  for- 
got their  very  existence. 

But  in  this  century  an  Italian,  digging  a  well  in  his 
garden,  found  himself  suddenly  in  the  midst  of  an  old 
Pompeian  dwelling.  The  government  was  told  and 
excavations  were  made,  opening  two-thirds  of  the  city  to 
the  day. 

The  light  these  excavations  have  shed  on  our  knowl- 
edge of  the  Romans  and  their  manner  of  life  is  marvel- 
ous. The  houses,  the  furniture,  the  jewelry,  all  serve 
as  most  interesting  studies.  The  colors  of  the  newly 
discovered  frescoes  were  as  perfect  as  they  were  eigh- 
teen hundred  years  ago.  Loaves  of  baked  bread  were 
found  in  the  bakeries. 

From  the  attitudes  of  the  skeletons  found  in  the  cel- 
lars and  in  the  streets  one  can  make  up  the  sad  story  of 
their  deaths.  A  miser  was  found  lying  in  the  street, 


334  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

still  clutching  his  casket  of  jewels  and  his  keys.  A 
woman  covered  with  glittering  gems  was  discovered 
trying  to  hold  up  the  ceiling  that  was  falling  upon  her. 
Parents  and  their  children  were  found  in  the  cellars 
with  'their  arms  about  each  other's  necks.  Perhaps  the 
noblest  figure  of  all  was  that  of  the  Roman  soldier  at 
the  city  gate,  standing  erect,  with  one  arm  over  his 
mouth  to  prevent  himself  from  breathing  the  deadly 
gases.  The  Roman  law  forbade  him  to  flee,  even  in 
such  a  crisis  as  this,  and  he  remained  to  die  at  his  post. 

The  museum  at  Naples  contains  interesting  relics  of 
Pompeii,  and  is  well  worth  a  visit. 

We  must  not  leave  Naples  without  devoting  an  hour 
or  two  to  the  queer  little  rocky  island  of  Capri.  There 
are  very  few  men  on  the  island,  as  they  are  chiefly 
sailors  who  make  voyages  to  Africa  of  several  years' 
duration.  The  work  of  the  island  is  consequently  done 
by  the  women  and  the  girls.  The  girls  are  very  beau- 
tiful, and  their  hard  work  as  farmers  and  housebuilders 
has  given  them  a  firm  walk  and  the  poise  of  a  princess. 

It  is  a  pretty  picture  to  see  a  group  of  them  climb  the 
steep  steps  of  rock  that  lead  from  the  shore  to  the  high- 
lands of  the  island.  Each  carries  a  jar,  a  bucket,  or  a 
huge  block  of  stone  upon  her  head.  Half  way  up  they 
pause  and  look  out  over  the  glittering  bay,  shading  their 
eyes  with  their  sunburned  hands.  Or  perhaps  their 
timid,  shy  glance  rests  upon  the  small  rocking  boat  that 
is  landing  us  curious  tourists  upon  their  island  home, 
Capri. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  335 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 
THE  LAND  OF  THE  GLORIOUS  PAST. 

A  steamer  from  Sicily  is  moving  rapidly  over  the 
Mediterranean  Sea.  She  is  sailing  eastward.  The  pas- 
sengers are  assembled  on  deck,  because  they  have  been 
told  that  land  will  soon  be  in  sight.  Most  of  them  seem 
particularly  anxious  for  a  first  glimpse  of  this  bit  of  the 
mainland  of  Europe. 

Presently  there  appears  a  line  of  rocky  headland. 
The  gazers  draw  long  breaths,  and  some  one  says, 
"  There  is  Greece  !  "  The  sea  is  a  deep  emerald  green, 
flecked  with  whitecaps  ;  the  sky  is  a  beautiful  serene 
blue;  while  between  the  sea  and  sky  stand  the  head- 
lands, of  an  exquisite  purple  haze,  the  color  of  an 
amethyst.  This  haze  is  continually  changing.  Now  it 
is  a  light  pink,  and  then  again  a  deep  rich  purple. 

Have  you  ever  spent  a  day  in  Plymouth,  Massachu- 
setts ?  I  think,  if  you  have,  you  will  remember  that  you 
hardly  noticed  the  present  dwellers  in  the  town,  because 
your  thoughts  were  with  the  Pilgrim  Fathers.  You  were 
thinking  of  Brewster  and  Carver,  Standish  and  Alden ; 
arid  not  the  misty  ghosts  of  those  old  worthies,  but  their 
substantial  selves  seemed  to  move  through  the  quaint 
old  streets. 

That  is  exactly  the  state  of  mind  the  traveler  has  on 
visiting  Greece. 

Greece  is  a  great  museum  of  the  past.  It  was  the  home 
of  brave  soldiers,  just  statesmen,  and  skillful  artists ;  and 
here  one  may  still  see  the  battlefields  where  they  died 


336  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

gloriously,  the  cities  that  they  governed  wisely,  and  the 
temples  and  palaces  that  they  adorned  with  the  most 
perfect  statues  the  world  has  ever  known. 

The  whole  land  is  crowded  with  mementos  of  the 
past.  So  it  is  hardly  strange  that  the  traveler  should 
prefer  to  visit  the  places  celebrated  long  ago,  rather 
than  to  devote  his  time  to  modern  little  cities  which  are 
just  beginning  to  prosper,  now  that  Greece  is  free.  It  is 
not  strange  that  he  should  see  Miltiades,  Pericles,  and 
Phidias  in  the  streets  of  Athens,  rather  than  the  ragged, 
if  picturesque,  Greek  of  to-day. 

Greece  is  only  one-half  the  size  of  Portugal,  yet  its 
coast  line  is  equal  to  that  of  both  Spain  and  Portugal. 
There  is  no  country  in  Europe  that  has  such  an  irregu- 
lar coast  line,  varied  as  it  is  with  gulfs,  bays,  promon- 
tories, and  capes. 

The  Gulf  of  Corinth  nearly  divides  Greece.  If  it 
only  gnawed  its  way  a  few  miles  farther  through  the 
land,  it  would  make  southern  Greece,  the  Morea,  as  it 
is  often  called,  an  island.  The  Morea  would  then 
occupy  the  same  position  toward  Greece  that  Sicily  does 
toward  Italy. 

Greece  has  almost  as  many  mountains  and  hills  as 
gulfs  and  bays.  The  mountains  are  not  so  very  lofty, 
but  they  are  all  of  a  most  beautiful  shape.  The  ranges 
separate  the  country  into  many  isolated  valleys  and 
plains. 

Each  lonely  mountain-bounded  district  formed  a  state, 
in  the  bright  days  of  Greece  two  thousand  years  ago. 
Each  state  was  independent  of  the  others,  and  had  its 
own  rulers.  Only  in  times  of  special  danger  did  they 


MODERN    EUROPE.  337 

unite  against  a  common  foe,  as  for  instance  when  the 
Persians  from  Asia  invaded  Greece. 

Down  the  mountain  valleys  flow  many  swift  little 
streams.  Many  of  them  are  turbid  with  the  soil  which 
they  carry  down  from  the  hills.  The  streams  flowing 
into  the  Gulf  of  Corinth,  in  particular,  bear  along  a 
dark  red  soil  which  stains  the  gulf  at  their  mouths  a 
deep  red.  Its  natural  color  is  a  brilliant  green  blue. 
When  the  sand  banks  mirror  their  yellow  sides  in  the 
water,  the  gulf  appears  gorgeous  in  the  sunshine,  with 
its  three  shades  of  red,  green,  and  yellow. 

Springs  are  abundant  even  in  the  highest  hills.  There 
are  also  several  rivers  which  run  for  a  long  distance 
underground. 

The  climate  is  more  trying  here  than  in  either  the 
Spanish  or  Italian  peninsulas.  There  are  cold  winds 
from  the  north  and  frequent  siroccos,  or  hot  winds, 
from  the  African  coast. 

The  most  interesting  place  in  Greece  is  the  capital, 
Athens.  This  city  is  situated  on  a  wide  plain  sur- 
rounded by  mountains  and  hills.  There  is  a  pass  be- 
tween two  mountains  on  the  north,  which  leads  away 
to  a  famous  battlefield  called  Marathon.  The  western 
of  these  two  mountains  contains  quarries  of  marble, 
from  which  many  of  the  celebrated  buildings  in  Athens 
were  made.  The  eastern  mountain  is  famous  for  its 
bees.  They  make,  from  the  flowers  that  grow  upon  its 
sides,  most  delicious  honey. 

The  hills  to  the  south  of  Athens  are  well  cultivated. 
Sometimes  they  are  green  with  tall  standing  rows  of 
corn,  and  then  again  they  are  yellow  with  stubble. 


338  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

The  plain  of  Athens  is  dry  and  brown,  so  sterile  in 
fact  that  it  is  a  pleasure  to  the  eye  to  turn  to  the  west, 
and  behold  a  dark  green  line  of  trees.  This  is  an  olive 
grove,  ten  miles  long  and  two  miles  wide.  It  is  watered 
by  a  river,  and  so  it  is  always  of  an  unfading  green. 

The  situation  of  Athens  has  often  been  compared  to 
that  of  Edinburgh.  Both  cities  stand  upon  a  plain, 
with  mountains  near  by.  Both  cities  command  a  view 
of  the  sea ;  and  both  consist  of  two  parts,  —  a  lofty 
citadel  and  a  lower  town. 

The  lower  town,  which  makes  up  modern  Athens,  is  a 
curious  medley  of  poor  hovels  and  elegant  residences. 
It  is  unfortunate  that  these  buildings  should  stand  upon 
the  site  of  old  Athens.  Otherwise  the  streets  and 
buildings  of  the  ancient  capital  might  be  unearthed  and 
brought  to  light  for  the  instruction  of  the  world. 

In  the  center  of  the  plain  of  Athens  rises  a  hill  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height.  On  this  hill  was  built 
the  Acropolis,  the  citadel  of  Athens.  A  large  platform 
was  raised  above  the  rock,  on  which  were  erected 
several  buildings.  The  top  is  reached  by  a  flight  of 
steps. 

On  the  way  up,  we  notice  on  a  projecting  buttress  at 
the  right,  the  ruins  of  a  most  perfect  little  temple.  It  is 
the  Temple  of  the  Wingless  Victory.  After  any  great 
success  in  battle,  the  Greeks  were  accustomed  to  build 
a  temple  or  statue  to  Victory.  She  was  usually  repre- 
sented with  wings,  to  show  that  she  flew  from  one  na- 
tion to  another,  rarely  staying  long  with  any  one  people. 
When  the  Athenians  built  this  temple,  they  made  the 
carvings  of  Victory  on  the  walls  without  wings.  Vic- 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


339 


tory  would  always  be  theirs,  they  said.     So  this  temple 
is  called  the  Temple  of  the  Wingless  Victory. 


340  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

You  must  know  that  in  Grecian  art  there  are  three 
different  columns.  The  first  has  corrugations,  or 
grooves,  running  up  and  down  its  surface.  It  is  very 
massive  and  stately,  and  is  known  as  the  Doric  pillar. 

The  second  pillar  is  lighter  and  more  graceful.  The 
top  of  the  column,  the  cap  or  capital  as  it  is  called,  is 
ornamented  by  the  curling  horn  of  a  ram.  This  is  an 
Ionic  pillar. 

The  Corinthian  pillar  is  distinguished  from  the  others 
by  having  its  capital  decorated  with  acanthus  leaves. 
These  leaves  are  very  pointed,  and  are  bent  backward 
upon  themselves  in  most  graceful  curves.  It  is  said 
that  an  artist  designed  this  capital  from  seeing  the 
leaves  of  a  real  acanthus  plant,  growing  in  a  basket,  so 
bent  when  a  tile  was  placed  over  the  basket  for  a  cover. 
As  this  artist  lived  in  Corinth,  a  city  situated  on  the 
eastern  end  of  the  Corinthian  Gulf,  the  pillar  he  origi- 
nated was  known  as  a  Corinthian  pillar. 

The  Temple  of  Victory  is  a  square  building  of  marble, 
which  receives  lightness  and  grace  from  the  Ionic  pillars 
adorning  two  of  its  faces.  These  columns  were  once 
lying  upon  the  ground ;  but  they  have  recently  been 
set  up  in  their  former  places,  and  now  travelers  can 
imagine  the  appearance  of  the  temple  as  it  was  in 
ancient  times. 

Passing  through  a  ruined  entrance  hall,  in  which 
shattered  and  weatherworn  pillars  appear  in  all  direc- 
tions, either  standing  or  lying  prostrate,  we  come  out 
upon  the  broad  Acropolis  and  see  before  us  two  temples. 
The  one  at  the  right  is  the  Parthenon ;  that  at  the  left 
is  the  Erechtheum,  It  has  been  truly  said  that  the. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  341 

Parthenon  represents  the  Greek  idea  of  majesty;  the 
Erechtheum,  their  idea  of  grace. 

The  Parthenon  was  the  temple  where  Athena,  or 
Minerva,  the  patron  goddess  of  the  Athenians,  was  wor- 
shiped. Within  was  a  huge  statue  of  the  goddess, 
made  of  ivory  and  gold.  Incense  was  burned  before 
her  shrine,  and  offerings  were  frequently  presented  to 
her. 

The  interior  of  the  temple  is  simple  and  severe  in  its 
lines.  The  shallow  roof  is  supported  by  large  Doric 
columns,  and  the  simple  yet  impressive  effect  produced 
by  these  many  pillars  gives  the  building  a  world-wide 
renown.  Greek  art  represents  the  highest  point  to 
which  art  has  attained.  The  Parthenon  is  the  acme  of 
Greek  art. 

There  are  many  ornaments  to  the  Parthenon,  but  they 
are  rarely  noticed  in  detail  by  one  who  stands  before 
the  building  itself.  There  are  finely  carved  groups  so 
enclosed  by  lines  as  to  form  triangular  and  circular 
designs.  There  is  also  a  frieze  running  around  the 
building,  representing,  in  a  masterly  way,  the  procession 
which,  once  a  year,  brought  to  Minerva  her  newly 
woven  robe. 

The  Erechtheum  is  chiefly  remarkable  for  the  sup- 
ports of  its  roof.  These  supports  are  statues  of  women 
who  stand  beneath  their  burden  with  a  noble  grace 
which  is  sublime. 

The  whole  platform  of  the  Acropolis  was  once  decked 
with  ornamental  statues  and  shrines.  But  these  have 
either  been  destroyed  or  removed.  Ruins  cover  and 
surround  this  famous  hill.  The  marble  of  the  buildings 


342  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

was  once  colored  brightly;  but  the  rolling  ages  have 
worn  away  the  red,  green,  and  blue,  and  now  the 
cracked  marble  is  of  a  sad  light  brown,  owing  to  the 
dust  which  continually  sweeps  over  the  Acropolis  from 
the  dry  plain  below. 

One  excursion  that  is  usually  made  from  Athens  is 
that  to  the  battlefield  of  Marathon.  Lord  Byron,  who 
wrote  much  concerning  Greece,  is  the  author  of  these 

lines :  — 

"  The  mountains  look  on  Marathon 

And  Marathon  looks  on  the  sea." 

This  exactly  describes  the  situation.  The  plain  is  a 
crescent,  the  outer  curve  of  which  is  a  range  of  moun- 
tains, and  the  inner  curve,  the  seashore.  The  center  of 
the  battlefield  is  marked  by  a  mound  of  earth,  thirty 
feet  high.  The  mound  was  once  ornamented  with  a 
lion,  but  it  has  disappeared,  no  one  knows  where.  From 
the  top  of  the  mound,  a  charming  view  is  obtained  of 
finely  cut  hills  and  patches  of  bright  blue  sea.  The 
utter  silence  and  solitude  of  the  place  is  appalling. 

Marathon  is  as  famous  in  Europe  as  Lexington  is  in 
America.  Both  battlefields  represent  the  refusal  of  a 
brave  people  to  bow  their  necks  to  the  yoke  that  a 
distant  nation  saw  fit  to  lay  upon  them.  Both  battles 
were  won  by  the  weaker  force,  to  their  great  surprise 
and  also  to  the  amazement  of  their  enemy. 

Marathon  was  the  great  battle  of  the  Athenians. 
They  were  the  literary  nation  of  Greece ;  and  their 
poets  sang  of  this  battle,  and  their  historians  told  of  it 
until  the  glories  of  Marathon  became  known  throughout 
Europe.  The  Thebans  and  the  Spartans  won  battles 


MODERN    EUROPE.  343 

that  were  as  great  as  this  of  Marathon  ;  but  as  they 
had  not  the  Athenians'  ease  and  grace  of  speech,  their 
battles  have  been  forgotten,  while  Marathon  will  live 
forever. 

To  one  who  knows  and  loves  Greek  history  and  le- 
gends, there  is  much  sadness  in  visiting  the  famous  old 
places.  Everything  speaks  of  the  dead  past.  Thebes 
has  been  overthrown  recently  by  an  earthquake,  and 
the  site  of  the  city  is  covered  now  by  ruins  overgrown 
with  roses.  These  rosebushes  are  the  only  life  that 
seems  to  thrive  here,  for  the  plain  of  Thebes  is 
malarious. 

Mount  Parnassus  is  veiy  little  changed.  Its  steep, 
snowy  heights  rise  upward  into  the  clear  sky  with  as 
radiant  a  gleam  as  ever,  but  the  temple  of  Apollo  on 
the  southern  side  is  in  ruins  and  deserted.  This  was 
where  the  famous  oracle  of  Delphi  once  uttered,  through 
the  lips  of  its  priestess,  responses  which  puzzled  the 
brains  of  the  wisest  people  of  ancient  times. 

The  long,  narrow  island  of  Eubcea  stretches  along 
the  eastern  coast  of  Greece."  It  is  so  near  the  mainland 
that  it  has  always  been  considered  more  as  a  part  of 
Greece  itself  than  as  an  island  of  the  JEgean  Sea.  The 
current  in  the  channel  between  Euboea  and  Greece 
changes  eight  or  ten  times  a  day ;  and,  as  it  runs  very 
swiftly,  there  is  need  of  careful  sailing  in  these  narrow 
seas.  Euboea  is  connected  with  the  continent  by  a 
bridge  whose  central  supports  rest  upon  a  small  rocky 
island. 

Southern  Greece  is  quite  as  picturesque  as  northern 
Greece.  There  are  the  same  beautifully  molded  hills, 


344  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

the  same  sudden  glimpses  of  wide  blue  sea,  the  same 
melting  tones  of  atmosphere,  softening  every  sharp  out- 
line and  making  all  appear  like  dreamland.  The  slopes 
are  sometimes  covered  with  old  forests,  where  the  ground 
is  muffled  to  the  step  by  a  thousand  layers  of  leaves. 
Each  year,  throughout  the  centuries,  the  dark  brown 
leaves  have  been  falling  and  making  this  wonderful 
springy  carpet  many  feet  in  thickness. 

If  the  old  forest  is  of  oaks,  the  gnarled  branches, 
crippled  by  the  storms  of  ages,  will  be  covered  with  the 
loveliest  growths.  Here  are  silver  gray  lichens .  yellow- 
ish green  moss,  and  tufts  of  mistletoe  of  a  still  brighter 
green.  Below  the  old  trees  grow  many  fair  and  delicate 
flowers.  The  delighted  traveler  gathers  hyacinths, 
orchids,  stars  of  Bethlehem,  scarlet  anemones,  and  irises. 
Oleanders  brighten  the  river  beds,  and  olive  trees,  pome- 
granate trees,  and  myrtles  abound. 

The  roads  are  very  poor.  In  some  places  attempts 
have  been  made  by  the  Turkish  government  to  pave  a. 
road.  The  result  can  hardly  be  pronounced  a  success, 
as  small  sharp  stones  were  used,  that  hurt  the  feet  at 
every  step. 

The  roughest  roads  are  traversed  on  donkeys.  These 
little  animals  are  very  sure-footed.  They  carry  their 
precious  burdens  safely  along  the  edge  of  steep  gorges, 
and  ascend  and  descend  most  fearful  slopes  with  per- 
fect confidence. 

The  country  is  wild  but,  on  the  whole,  safe.  Pirates 
and  brigands  now  belong  to  the  past.  The  places  one 
sees  are  either  ruins  of  ancient  cities,  with  shattered 
columns,  statues,  and  buildings,  or  else  modern  villages. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  345 

The  dwellings  of  these  villages  are  either  wooden  sheds 
or  mud  huts.  Frequently  the  mud  huts  are  embowered 
in  gardens.  Orange  and  lemon  trees  shade  the  houses, 
while  oleanders  and  rosebushes  lean  over  the  low  mud 
fences. 

The  people  seem  very  idle,  so  lazy,  in  fact,  that  the 
trotting  of  your  little  donkey  into  their  street  is  a  real 
blessing  to  them.  It  gives  them  a  subject  for  their 
wandering  thoughts. 

The  modern  Greeks  are  tall,  well-made  men.  They 
are,  as  a  rule,  somewhat  thin,  and  their  figures  remain 
thin  and  erect  all  their  lives.  They  have  oval  faces, 
eyes  bright  with  intelligence,  beautiful  straight  noses, 
and  fine  teeth. 

The  Greeks  in  the  seaport  cities  are  not  the  best  of 
their  race.  They  are  treacherous  and  deceitful,  and 
given  up  to  many  vices.  But  the  mountaineers,  among 
whom  we  have  come,  are  sincere  and  upright  in  their 
dealings.  They  wear  the  national  dress,  which  is  quite 
pretty  and  interesting. 

Its  most  remarkable  garment  is  a  kind  of  kilt,  or 
skirt,  made  of  twenty  or  thirty  yards  of  -white  linen  or 
calico,  which  is  pleated  so  that  it  stands  out  almost 
straight  from  the  figure.  About  the  waist  is  a  broad 
leather  belt,  holding  pistols,  knives,  and  tobacco.  The 
jacket  is  sometimes  of  linen,  and  then  again  of  wool. 
It  is  usually  embroidered  heavily  with  gold.  The  cap 
is  red,  with  a  blue  tassel  falling  upon  the  shoulder. 
Richly  decorated  gaiters  and  shoes  that  turn  up  at  the 
toes  complete  the  costume.  This  national  dress  is  the 
uniform  of  the  Greek  soldiers. 


ami 


346  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

The  women  wear  a  woolen  skirt  and  a  baggy  woolen 
overcoat,  or  jacket,  coming  to  the  knees,  either  fringed 
or  embroidered  in  red.  A  necklace  of  gold  or  silver 
coin  is  always  a  part  of  their  costume.  They  are  gen- 
tle-looking, and  wear  their  hair  in  a  single  braid,  falling 
to  their  waists. 

The  Greeks  are  very  hospitable  in  their  homes,  but 
the  village  innkeepers  are  dishonest.  They  set  an 
enormous  price  upon  the  simplest  meal  or  service. 

The  Greeks  are  a  remarkably  intelligent  race.  Their 
love  of  learning  is  great.  Even  the  servants  spend 
their  leisure  in  study.  They  are,  as  a  nation,  unusu- 
ally temperate.  The  poor  people  have  only  one  meal 
a  day,  while  the  rich  people  have  but  two.  The  food 
that  an  English  laborer  eats  for  his  dinner  would  last  a 
Greek  family  of  six  persons  a  day.  Their  one  meal 
generally  consists  of  a  few  vegetables  steeped  in  oil. 

The  most  serious  failing  of  the  Greeks  is  vanity. 
They  think  themselves  the  finest  and  wisest  nation  in 
Europe,  which  they  are  far  from  being.  They  are 
ambitious,  and  love  money  with  all  their  hearts.  The 
industry  in  which  they  have  made  most  money  is  com- 
merce. The  country  is  well  adapted  to  this,  owing  to 
the  many  inlets. 

The  Greeks  are  not  very  successful  farmers.  They 
are  far  behind  the  age  in  that  pursuit.  Their  tools  are 
rude,  and  they  do  not  understand  the  principle  of  get- 
ting as  much  as  possible  from  a  given- lot  of  ground  by 
frequently  changing  the  crops.  The  soil  of  Greece  is 
quite  light  and  dry.  Only  in  the  river  valleys  is  it 
very  fertile. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  347 

Mulberry  trees  are  grown  in  the  Morea,  and  silk 
worms  are  raised  by  the  peasants.  The  wine  made  in 
Greece  is  not  palatable  to  Europeans.  This  is  because 
it  is  always  mixed  with  resin.  The  native  Greeks  enjoy 
its  peculiar  taste,  but  the  people  of  other  nations  make 
wry  faces  at  the  mere  thought  of  it. 

Near  the  Gulf  of  Corinth  live  colonies  of  fishermen, 
while  sheep  are  tended  among  the  mountains  by  dreamy- 
eyed  children  or  rough  shepherds.  The  coats  of  these 
shepherds  are  made  of  sheepskin,  with  the  wool  turned 
inward. 

The  center  of  southern  Greece  is  occupied  by  a  state 
known  as  Arcadia.  People  have  for  many  years  pict- 
ured Arcadia  as  a  land  of  flocks  and  shepherds.  The 
sheep  are  always  pure  white,  and  have  musical  bells 
tied  about  their  plump  necks.  The  shepherds  have 
broad  hats  trimmed  with  flowers ;  and  they  spend  their 
time  either  in  playing  sweetly  upon  reed  pipes  deco- 
rated with  ribbons,  or  in  talking  to  little  shepherdesses, 
all  of  whom  are  charmingly  pretty. 

Now  this  is  a  very  pleasant  state  of  society,  but  it  is 
quite  unlike  what  exists  in  the  real  Arcadia.  That  is 
a  wild,  rough  country,  with  lofty  mountain  peaks  and 
deep  valleys.  The  mountaineers  are  a  very  brave, 
independent  race.  Many  of  them  earn  their  living  by 
giving  paid  service  abroad  as  soldiers. 

Greece  is  surrounded  by  several  groups  of  islands. 
The  Ionian  Islands  lie  to  the  west,  and  the  Cyclades 
and  the  Sporades  to  the  east. 

The  Ionian  Islands  were  once  under  the  rule  of  Great 
Britain.  On  that  account  the  roads  are  excellent;  there 


348  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

*  *  *  • 

are  good  hotels,  and  other  signs  of  civilization  are  evi- 
dent. Corfu,  the  most  northern  island,  has  always  held 
the  first  place  among  the  group.  The  king  of  Greece 
has  a  summer  residence  there. 

The  more  southern  of  the  Ionian  Islands  have  a  warm 
and  pleasant  climate.  Oranges,  lemons,  apricots,  pome- 
granates, and  citrons  are  raised,  together  with  the  tiny 
grape  which  is  known,  in  commerce,  as  the  black  currant. 

The  word  Cyclades  means  circling.  The  islands  of 
this  group  received  this  name,  because  they  circle  about 
the  island  of  Delos.  The  islands  of  the  third  group  are 
called  the  Sporades,  because  they  are  scattered  far  and 
wide  over  the  sea. 

Delos  is  famous  for  having  been  the  birthplace  of  the 
twin  gods,  Apollo  and  Diana.  In  olden  times  there  was 
an  oracle  here  that  the  Greeks  were  accustomed  to 
consult. 

One  of  the  Cyclades  Islands  is  named  Milo.  Surely 
we  have  heard  that  name  before  !  The  Venus  in  the 
Louvre  is  called  the  Venus  of  Milo.  Did  she  come 
from  Milo  ?  Yes.  Long  years  after  the  downfall  of 
Greece,  she  was  found  buried  in  the  earth  at  the  foot 
of  a  hill.  She  had  once  graced  the  pleasure  garden  of  a 
wealthy  Greek  ;  but  the  garden  had  fallen  to  ruins,  and 
soil  washing  down  from  the  hillsides  had  hidden  Venus 
and  the  other  statues  from  sight. 

A  man  on  the  island  of  Milo  was  preparing  a  vine- 
yard in  1825.  His  shovel  struck  against  something 
hard,  and  the  Venus  of  Milo  was  unearthed.  A  French- 
man bought  her  for  five  hundred  dollars,  and  she  was 
placed  in  the  Louvre.  There  she  has  remained  as  its 


MODERN    EUROPE.  349 

chief  attraction  ever  since,  except  during  the  months 
when  she  was  hidden  carefully  in  a  cellar,  at  the  time 
of  the  Franco-Prussian  war.  The  French  were  afraid 
that  the  Germans  might  bear  her  away  to  Berlin,  if 
Paris  fell. 

This  statue  might  stand  for  ancient  Greece,  which, 
though  overthrown  and  marred,  still  holds  its  power 
and  influence  over  the  nations,  by  reason  of  the  perfect 
types  of  beauty  which  it  has  left  the  civilized  world  as  a 
heritage. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 
THE  STRANGER  IN  EUROPE. 

In  southeastern  Europe  live  a  strange  people.  Their 
faces  are  sallow  and  calmly  sullen ;  they  wear  long 
robes,  and  upon  their  heads  are  either  fezzes  or  bright- 
colored  arrangements  of  cloth  called  turbans.  Until 
late  years  their  houses  have  contained  no  chairs  and 
tables.  They  have  sat  upon  gorgeous,  oriental  rugs, 
and  smoked  in  tranquil  silence.  Five  times  a  day  these 
people  wash  themselves  carefully,  and,  kneeling  on 
their  prayer  rugs,  turn  their  faces  to  the  southeast  and 
call  upon  Allah,  the  God  of  the  Mohammedans. 

Who  are  these  people,  so  unlike  other  Europeans  in 
appearance  and  religion?  They  are  the  Turks,  and 
theirs  is  the  only  nation  in  Europe  not  a  Christian  one. 

What  are  they  doing  in  Christian  Europe  ?  And  why 
flo  they  not  return  to  Asia,  the  land  of  the  Moham- 


350  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

medans  ?  These  are  just  the  questions  that  have  been 
asked  in  Europe  for  hundreds  and  hundreds  of  years, 
in  fact,  ever  since  the  Turks  first  swarmed  over  the 
narrow  seas  between  Europe  and  Asia  and  captured  the 
Greek  city  of  Constantinople.  Many  efforts  have  been 
made  to  dislodge  them,  but  they  have  held  their  fair 
corner  of  Europe  with  a  tenacious  grip. 

But  the  grip  is  growing  feebler  year  by  year.  Russia 
longs  to  possess  Constantinople,  but  England  and  the 
other  great  powers  are  determined  to  prevent  her.  .  So 
they  bolster  up  Turkey,  and  stand  by  her  in  the  wars 
begun  by  Russia  under  various  pretexts. 

Notwithstanding  foreign  aid,  the  Turkish  empire  is 
falling  to  pieces.  Beside  her  present  possessions,  Tur- 
.key  once  owned  Greece,  Roumania,  Servia,  and  Monte- 
negro. All  these  provinces  have  become  independent 
of  the  Turkish  empire  during  this  century,  and  the 
large  province  of  Bulgaria  is  now  only  nominally  sub- 
ject to  Turkey. 

But  the  empire  is  still  strong,  because  of  its  hold  on 
the  Bosphorus.  The  strarfc  of  Dardanelles,  which  is  only 
a  mile  wide  at  its  narrowest  point,  the  Sea  of  Marmora, 
and  the  Bosphorus,  together  form  the  narrow  passage 
between  the  Black  Sea  and  the  Mediterranean.  Turkish 
fortresses  command  these  narrow  seas,  and  the  Turkish 
cannon  may,  at  any  time,  destroy  a  passing  fleet.  Here 
the  Turk  is  the  master  of  all  the  navies  in  the  world, 
and  here,  and  only  here,  can  he  make  proud  Russia  and 
England  tremble. 

Constantinople,  situated  at  the  southern  end  of  the 
Bosphorus,  has  the  finest  position  of  any  city  in  the 


MODERN    EUROPE.  351 

world.  It  stands  upon  two  continents.  Two  sections 
of  the  city,  Stamboul  and  Pera,  are  in  Europe,  and 
one  section  is  in  Asia.  The  Asiatic  section  is  called 
Scutari. 

The  Bosphorus  has  many  tributary  bays,  and  one  of 
the  most  celebrated  is  the  Golden  Horn.  Some  one 
has  said  that  this  bay  must  represent  the  horn  of  a  stag, 
because  its  outlines  are  very  wavy. 

Constantinople,  viewed  from  the  deck  of  a  steamer, 
is  a  wondrously  beautiful  sight.  The  city  proper, 
known  as  Stamboul,  is  built  on  seven  hills. 

Each  hill  is  crowned  with  white  buildings  of  marble 
or  stone.  Many  of  them  are  mosques,  or  Mohammedan 
churches,  which  always  are  marked  by  domes  and  min- 
arets. Minarets  are  tall  and  slender  towers,  that  shoot 
up  into  the  blue  sky  like  shafts  of  light.  Some  mosques 
have  four  minarets,  some  six,  and  so  on,  the  number 
varying  with  every  different  mosque. 

Between  the  hills  are  valleys;  and  there  may  be  seen 
groves  of  cypresses,  their  dark  gloom  contrasting  effec- 
tively with  the  brightness  of  the  buildings. 

Pera  is  opposite  Stamboul,  on  the  northern  side  of  the 
Golden  Horn.  The  two  districts  are  connected  by  two 
bridges,  across  which  swarm  crowds  of  people  of  every 
nation  on  the  face  of  the  earth.  Each  one  wears  his 
own  style  of  dress,  so  that  the  scene  appears  almost  like 
a  masquerade. 

Below  the  bridges  shoot  small  boats,  of  a  shape  so 
delicate  as  to  suggest  the  graceful  gondola  of  Venice. 
These  are  like  city  cabs,  and  are  used  to  transport  peo- 
ple from  one  section  of  the  city  to  another.  Everywhere 


362  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

on  the  Bosphorus  and  the  Golden  Horn  are  throngs  of 
steamers,  darkening  the  sky  with  smoke  from  their 
many  funnels.  All  this  strange  scene,  with  its  min- 
gling of  the  East  and  of  the  West,  is  reflected  perfectly 
in  the  glassy  water. 

In  .the  yellow  glory  of  sunrise,  in  the  red  glow  of  sun- 
set, in  the  silvery  gleam  of  moonlight,  Constantinople 
appears  a  fairy  city.  It  is  so  magically  beautiful  that 
it  suggests  the  scenes  of  "  The  Arabian  Nights."  It  is 


DOGS     OF    CONSTANTINOPLE. 


fit  to  stand  for  Bagdad,  the  home  of  so  many  vvild  ro- 
mances. 

But,  by  sober  daylight,  the  streets  of  Constantinople 
appear  far  from  romantic.  Must  we  tell  the  truth  and 
say  that  they  are  dirty,  narrow,  and  wretchedly  paved  ? 
Up  and  down  they  tilt,  between  tumble-down,  brown 
wooden  houses  with  red  tiled  roofs. 

The  number  of  dogs  that  one  meets  is  amazing. 
They  are  all  huge,  half-starved  curs,  most  of  whom  bear 


MODERN    EUROPE.  353 

the  scars  of  many  battles,  received  in  the  fights  for  the 
scanty  food  which  they  find  in  the  street. 

Beggars  are  well-nigh  as  numerous  as  dogs.  The 
tattered  rags  in  which  they  are  clad  are  gorgeous  with 
color.  With  their  royal  purples  and  scarlets  and  their 
air  of  unruffled  dignity,  they  might  almost  be  the  de- 
posed monarchs  of  some  second-rate  principality. 

The  bazaar  is  a  most  fascinating  place  to  visit.  Imag- 
ine a  great  building  of  a  brownish  gray  color,  perched 
upon  a  low  hill.  Up  the  hillside  to  the  very  walls  of 
the  bazaar  stretch  hosts  of  tiny  booths  and  mean  little 
shops,  each  of  which  offers  for  sale  some  special  article. 

The  bazaar  itself  is  like  a  small  city.  It  has  its 
streets  and  its  different  wards  and  districts.  Each  aisle 
is  devoted  to  the  sale  of  some  special  article,  or  occupied 
by  the  members  of  the  same  trade.  The  streets  are 
somewhat  dark,  and  in  nearly  every  quarter  a  strange, 
dreamy  quiet  prevails. 

The  East  and  the  West  here  meet.  Oriental  carpets, 
rugs,  and  embroideries  are  strongly  contrasted  with  Eng- 
lish cottons,  woven  in  bustling  Manchester.  Jasper, 
amber,  and  stones  of  priceless  value  are  sheltered  in 
the  recesses  of  dark  little  booths.  The  merchants  sit 
cross-legged  on  their  rugs,  smoking  cigarettes,  with  the 
air  of  the  utmost  contempt  for  the  foreigner  who  stops 
to  examine  their  wares  or  to  inquire  the  price. 

Avenues  of  drugs,  spices,  porcelains,  pottery,  em- 
broideries, and  gold  and  silver  threads,  still  tempt  the 
curious  visitor  onward.  Enterprising  Jews,  shrewd  Ar- 
menians, fur-capped  Persians,  and  picturesque  Greeks 
are  among  the  buyers.  Women  also  frequent  the 


354  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

bazaar.  Several  of  them  come  together,  and  delight 
themselves  with  the  sight  of  the  rich  goods,  and  with 
beating  down  the  exorbitant  prices  of  the  merchants. 

The  most  celebrated  building  in  Constantinople  is  the 
mosque  of  St.  Sophia.  This  was  once  a  Christian  church. 
It  was  built  by  the  Emperor  Justinian,  who  employed 
ten  thousand  workmen  for  six  years.  Every  night,  each 
workman  was  paid  in  new  silver  coins.  In  order  to 
avoid  the  possibility  of  fire,  the  building  was  of  brick 
and  stone.  It  was  capped  by  a  huge  dome  supported 
by  smaller  domes. 

When  the  Turks  took  Constantinople,  a  most  fearful 
massacre  of  Christians  took  place  in  the  sacred  building 
itself.  In  the  midst  of  the  slaughter,  the  sultan  rode 
up  the  aisle  and,  springing  upon  the  altar,  uttered  these 
words,  which  changed  St.  Sophia  from  a  Christian  cathe- 
dral to  a  Mohammedan  mosque :  "  There  is  no  God  but 
our  God,  and  Mohammed  is  his  prophet." 

Then  four  minarets  were  built  surrounding  the  dome. 
The  sacred  paintings  upon  the  walls  were  partially 
hidden  beneath  a  coat  of  whitewash ;  the  stand  for  the 
Koran  was  set  up;  and  a  mark  was  made,  indicating 
the  direction  of  the  holy  city  of  Mecca,  toward  which 
all  good  Mussulmans  face  when  they  pray. 

St.  Sophia  was  once  in  the  East  what  St.  Peter's  is  still 
in  the  West.  It  was  the  head  of  the  Eastern  Church,  its 
banner,  its  figure  head.  Its  desecration  to  a  mosque 
was  a  great  blow  to  Christendom.  The  Russians  espe- 
cially long  for  the  day  to  come  when  St.  Sophia  may  be- 
come once  more  a  church  of  the  Christian  faith.  There 
is  one  of  their  army  songs  which  runs  as  follows  :  — 


MODERN    EUROPE.  355 

"  Hail  to  the  glorious  morning, 

When  the  cross  again  shall  shine 
On  the  summit  of  St.  Sophia, 
O  city  of  Constantine  1 " 

There  are  hundreds  of  mosques  in  Constantinople,  but 
we  can  only  look  at  one  more.  This  is  the  pigeon 
mosque.  It  is  so  called  because  one  of  the  sultans 
made  a  request  that  no  pigeon  living  on  or  about  the 
walls  and  roofs  of  this  mosque  should  be  molested.  He 
left  a  sum  of  money  to  be  expended  in  grain  to  be 
thrown  to  the  pigeons  daily. 

So  the  tame  white  birds  grow  more  and  more  numer- 
ous yearly,  and  the  gentle  sound  of  their  fluttering  wings 
and  their  mild  cooings  confer  a  nameless  grace  and 
peace  upon  the  courtyard  of  the  old  mosque.  Orange 
trees  shade  the  ancient  well  which  stands  in  the  midst 
of  the  yard ;  scribes  with  long  white  beards  sit  writing 
at  their  little  tables  ;  and  priests  in  purple,  green,  and 
white  robes  pace  thoughtfully  to  and  fro. 

Aside  from  the  churches,  a  ruined  circus  and  several 
shattered  columns  are  all  that  is  left  of  old  Constanti- 
nople. Buried  underground  are  ruined-  buildings  and 
streets,  which  were  once  the  pride  of  the  Eastern  world. 

So  far  we  have  been  wandering  in  Stamboul.  But 
before  leaving  the  sultan's  city  we  must  glance  at  Pera 
and  Scutari.  Pera  is  the  European  quarter  of  Con- 
stantinople. Here  are  the  hotels  to  which  tourists 
usually  resort,  and  various  European  embassies. 

Scutari  is  in  Asia  and  has  many  of  the  characteristics 
of  an  Asiatic  town.  Dirty  and  chaotic  as  are  the  streets 
of  Stamboul,  the  streets  of  Scutari  are  even  worse. 


356 


THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 


The  largest  graveyard  in  Constantinople  is  at  Scutari. 
The  Turks  prefer  to  be  buried  in  Asia.  They  feel  that 
they  belong  there  more  than  in  Europe.  They  have  a 
silent  belief  that  they  may  not  always  remain  in  Europe, 

and  prefer  that  their  bodies 
should  be  laid  in  an  Asiatic 
rather  than  in  a  European 
burying  ground,  in  order 
that  their  graves  may  not  be 
desecrated  by  the  feet  of 
Christians  at  no  distant  day. 
Perhaps  the  strongest  at- 
traction in  Scutari  is  the 
howling  dervishes.  These 
are  a  company  of  priests 
who,  once  a  week,  howl  and 
sway  their  bodies  about  for 
an  hour  or  more  in  a  kind 
of  religious  frenzy.  Under 
the  lead  of  an  old  priest, 
they  work  themselves  up  to 
such  excitement  of  motion 
that  bystanders  are  some- 
times moved  to  join  the 
swaying,  howling  line. 

The  territory  of  the  sultan 
is  rich  in  natural  resources. 

The  slopes  of  the  Balkan  Mountains  in  central  Tur- 
key form  a  most  delightful  region.  Vineyards  and 
forests  of  fruit  trees  adorn  the  hillsides.  Jasmine, 
lilacs,  and,  above  all,  roses  blossom  in  abundance.  A 


MODERN    EUROPE.  357 

celebrated  Turkish  perfume  is  made  here  called  attar  of 
roses. 

The  farms  of  Turkey  are  almost  too  large  to  be  well 
cultivated  by  their  owners.  Attempts  have  been  made 
to  introduce  new  and  modern  farming  tools,  but  they 
have  failed.  The  ploughing  is  still  rudely  done  by  old 
wooden  ploughs  drawn  by  oxen. 

There  are  few  railroads  in  Turkey,  compared  with  the 
rest  of  Europe.  Its  alien  position  is  singular.  It  is 
said  that  the  Turks  rarely  consider  themselves  as  living 
in  Europe.  They  are  accustomed  to  speak  of  Europe  as 
lying  to  the  north  of  the  Balkan  Mountains. 

Adrianople  and  Philippopolis  are  important  cities  in 
Turkey.  American  missionaries  have  established  schools 
and  churches  at  Monastir,  Samokov,  and  Esca  Zagra. 


CHAPTER  XX. 
FREE   FROM  THE   TURKISH  YOKE. 

The  three  little  provinces  of  Servia, -Roumania,  and 
Montenegro  became  independent  of  Turkish  rule  in  18T8. 
They  were  Christian  provinces,  and  were  much  oppressed 
by  the  sultan,  who  burdened  them  with  heavy  taxes. 
They  were  of  the  same  church  as  Russia,  and  availed 
themselves  of  her  powerful  and  ready  aid,  when  they 
rose  against  the  cruel  abuses  of  Turkey. 

They  are  small  principalities  which  have,  as  yet, 
scarcely  recovered  from  the  recent  wars  in  which  they 
have  been  concerned. 


358  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Servia  is  made  up  of  hills  and  valleys.  Vineyards 
and  fields  of  grain  abound.  Indian  corn  is  harvested, 
and  brought  down  to  the  Danube  River  upon  curious 
ox  carts.  These  carts  are  heavy,  unwieldy  affairs  with 
sides  of  basket  work. 

Herds  of  swine  and  flocks  of  sheep  are  raised.  The 
swine  run  wild  in  the  forest,  and  live  upon  the  fallen 
nuts  of  the  beech,  oak,  and  chestnut. 

The  dress  of  the  Servian  peasant  consists  of  a  white 
blouse  and  short  white  trousers.  Over  this  he  draws  a 
jacket  of  untanned  sheepskin,  made  up  with  the  wool 
inside.  On  his  head  he  wears  a  conical  Astrachan 
cap. 

Roumania,  the  largest  of  the  freed  provinces,  is  sepa- 
rated from  Turkey  by  the  Danube  River.  Its  southern 
and  eastern  sections  are  marshy,  and  are  flooded  by  the 
waters  of  the  Danube  in  the  springtime.  Beyond  the 
marshy  districts  are  regions  covered  with  coarse  grass, 
with  nothing  to  break  the  dull  and  uninteresting  plain 
except,  perhaps,  an  ancient  and  solitary  well. 

To  the  northwest,  the  character  of  Roumania  changes. 
Vineyards,  forests,  and  orchards  of  peach  and  plum  trees 
appear.'  Grains  form  the  chief  article  of  traffic,  and 
already  Roumania  has  become  one  of  the  chief  grain 
exporting  countries  in  Europe. 

Bucharest,  the  capital,  is  a  neat,  bright,  lively  little 
place,  which  is  far  from  suggesting  a  Turkish  city.  The 
Roumanians  are  very  ready  to  receive  impressions  from 
the  rest  of  Europe.  The  citizens  travel,  and  return  to 
their  country  full  of  ideas  which  they  are  ready  and 
anxious  to  introduce.  They  are  a  gay,  lively  people, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  359 

fond  of  theaters,  circuses,  fast  horses,  and  elegant  car- 
riages. 

Their  queen  is  a  lovely  and  talented  woman.  She  is 
well  known  in  both  Europe  and  America  as  the  charm- 
ing writer,  Carmen  Sylva. 

Montenegro  is  a  mere  dot  of  a  country,  being  only 
about  one-half  the  size  of  Wales.  Its  surface  consists 
of  a  jumble  of  mountains,  many  of  whose  summits 
are  white  with  snow  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
year. 

The  people  make  the  most  of  every  small  patch  of 
land.  Crops  not  more  than  a  yard  square  are  seen 
growing  in  hollows  on  the  mountain  sides. 

The  women  perform  most  of  the  work  of  the  farm 
and  vineyard.  They  are  patient  and  hard-working,  and 
have  a  great  admiration  for  their  indolent  husbands. 
When  they  are  not  toiling  in  the  fields,  they  occupy  their 
time  in  embroidering  and  decorating  clothes  for  them. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

THE   LAND   OF  THE    CZAR. 

We  are  now  to  visit  the  largest  country  on  the  face 
of  the  globe,  —  the  empire  of  Russia.  It  includes  more 
than  one-half  of  Europe  and  fully  one-half  of  Asia. 
Russia  is  a  large  continent  in  itself,  as  it  occupies  one- 
sixth  of  all  the  land  surface  of  the  earth.  The  czar 
rules  over  one  hundred  different  peoples  and  tribes,  and 


360  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

within  the  boundaries  of  his  immense  empire  no  less 
than  forty  different  languages  are  spoken. 

Everything  in  Russia  is  on  a  vast  scale.  Think  of 
traveling  seven  thousand  miles  in  a  straight  line  and 
remaining  all  the  time  in  the  same  country !  And  this 
one  can  easily  do ;  for  Russia  stretches  from  the  cold 
gray  waters  of  the  Baltic  Sea  eastward  to  the  sunny 
Pacific,  and  southward  from  the  frozen  bays  of  the 
Arctic  Ocean  to  the  salt  deserts  around  the  Caspian 
and  Aral  Seas. 

Within  her  immense  territory  are  included  lofty 
mountain  ranges,  vast  lonely  plains,  and  several  of  the 
largest  rivers  of  the  world.  The  Volga,  Don,  and  Dnie- 
per are  all  Russian  rivers.  Here,  too,  are  pathless  des- 
erts of  sand  and  salt,  leagues  and  leagues  of  fine  wheat 
land,  and  wide  rolling  prairies  known  as  steppes. 

But  Russia  is  still  unsatisfied.  No  one  can  tell  where 
her  ambition  will  stop.  "  Land  !  more  land !  "  is  ever 
her  cry.  Within  this  century  Finland  and  much  of 
eastern  and  central  Asia  have  come  under  her  rule ;  and 
she  has  occupied  land  on  the  Black  Sea  that  before 
she  had  possessed  in  name  only. 

The  Russian  coat  of  arms  is  a  double-headed  eagle. 
This  symbolizes  the  union  of  the  West  and  the  East, 
the  empire  in  Europe  and  that  in  Asia. 

One  of  the  most  enlightened  czars  that  Russia  ever 
had  was  Peter  the  Great.  A  fine  trait  in  his  character 
was  his  willingness  to  be  taught. 

He  was  not  foolishly  proud  of  his  country.  He  did 
not  believe,  as  did  some  kings  of  his  time,  that  his  king- 
dom could  learn  nothing  of  the  nations  around  her. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  361 

He  traveled  among  them ;  and,  finding  that  the  great 
need  of  Russia  was  a  navy,  he  disguised  himself  and 
served  as  an  apprentice  in  various  shipyards  in  Holland. 
When  he  had  mastered  the  art  of  shipbuilding,  he  re- 
turned to  Russia.  He  had  also  learned  many  other  arts, 
which  he  proceeded  to  introduce  at  home. 

Peter  resolved  that  Russia  should  become  a  commer- 
cial country,  and  have  intercourse  with  the  other  na- 
tions of  Europe.  At  that  time  she  was  very  much 
isolated,  as  she  had  no  egress  except  on  the  Arctic 
Ocean.  Peter  soon  gained  a  foothold  on  the  Black  and 
Caspian  Seas ;  and  then  he  made  war  on  the  Swedes, 
who  ceded  to  him  land  on  the  Baltic  Sea.  His  wish 
was  accomplished.  Russia  now  had  a  seaboard  that 
would  bring  her  into  the  heart  of  European  affairs. 

On  this  coast,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neva  River,  Peter 
resolved  to  found  his  capital  city.  The  old  capital, 
Moscow,  was  an  inland  city,  and  henceforth  would  be 
of  second-rate  importance. 

The  land  by  the  Neva  hardly  offered  a  foundation 
firm  enough  for  a  city.  It  was  a  marsh,  a  swamp. 
Never  mind !  Peter,  the  czar,  had  decreed  that  there  a 
city  was  to  be  built ;  and,  in  course  of  time,  St.  Peters- 
burg arose.  Its  foundations  rested  upon  millions  of 
piles  driven  into  the  swampy  ground.  Hundreds  of 
workmen,  smitten  with  malarial  fever,  laid  down  their 
lives  to  enable  the  czar  to  carry  out  his  iron  will. 

The  city  has  been  aptly  called  "the  czar's  window 
looking  out  into  Europe." 

Peter's  desire  for  an  outlet  to  the  sea  has  passed  down 
through  his  race.  The  Black  Sea  flows  into  the  Medi- 


362  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

terranean  through  the  Bosphorus.  That  is  in  the  hancU 
of  the  Turks,  who  can  at  will  bar  the  Russian  ships 
from  entering  the  Mediterranean.  Russia  chafes  at 
this  power  of  the  Turks,  and  fixes  longing  eyes  on 
Constantinople. 

The  rich  nation  of  England,  Russia's  great  rival,  is 
unwilling  for  Russia  to  get  this  port  on  the  Bosphorus. 
Russia  would  then  be  the  most  powerful  nation  in 
Europe,  while  now  she  is  only  one  of  several.  Wars 
have  been  made  on  Turkey  by  Russia  under  various 
pretexts,  but  the  purpose  of  them  all  has  been  to  gain 
Constantinople.  England  and  the  other  powers  stand 
by  Turkey  and  protect  her  rights,  not  so  much  through 
love  of  Turkey  as  through  fear  of  Russia. 

This  equality  of  power,  or  balance  of  power,  as  it  is 
called  by  the  wise  politicians  and  statesmen,  is  a  very 
delicate  balance  indeed.  It  is  this  that  keeps  up  the 
great  standing  armies  of  the  nations,  and  turns  all 
Europe  into  a  vast  camping  ground. 

You  see  each  nation  is  afraid  of  being  swallowed  by 
one  of  the  others.  It  reminds  me  of  a  story  I  once 
heard  that  is  so  terrible  I  scarcely  like  to  speak  of  it. 
It  seems  that  a  half  dozen  sailors  had  escaped  from 
their  sinking  ship  in  a  rowboat.  Their  small  stock 
of  provisions  was  soon  exhausted,  and  fierce  hunger 
came  upon  them.  After  suffering  intensely  for  several 
days,  they  fell  upon  the  youngest  and  weakest  of  their 
number,  killed  him,  and  divided  his  body  among  them. 
And,  from  that  time  on,  each  came  to  look  upon  the 
others  with  distrust ;  each  feared  his  comrades  might 
single  him  out  for  the  next  victim.  No  one  dared  to 


MODERN    EUROPE.  363 

sleep,  and  every  one  sat  ready  with  his  hand  upon  his 
weapons. 

This  is  much  the  attitude  of  the  nations  of  Europe 
toward  one  another.  Let  us  be  thankful  that  we  live 
so  far  away,  and  that  there  is  no  dark  shadow  of  com- 
ing war  about  us. 

St.  Petersburg,  with  its  straight  broad  streets  and 
square  blocks  of  handsome  buildings,  resembles  Chicago 
and  Washington.  If  we  could  spirit  away  the  queerly 
dressed  people,  the  foreign-looking  domes  and  crosses, 
and  the  puzzling  lettering  on  the  signs,  we  might  almost 
fancy  ourselves  in  America. 

This  city,  which  is  called  by  the  Russians  Petersburg, 
is  situated  on  the  Neva.  From  November  to  May  the 
river  is  frozen ;  and  during  that  time,  while  the  ships 
are  icebound  in  the  harbors,  much  of  the  gay  city  life 
centers  here.  There  are  sleighing  parties  by  night  and 
by  day,  horse  races  on  the  ice,  and  a  little  skating  and 
coasting. 

The  Russians  are  not  fond  of  active  exercise.  They 
prefer  passive  exercise.  Sleighing  is,  therefore,  more 
popular  than  skating,  for  in  that  case  it  is  the  horse 
alone  that  exerts  himself. 

There  are  two  ceremonies  connected  with  the  Neva 
that  are  exceedingly  interesting.  On  the  sixth  of  Janu- 
ary, the  czar,  his  officials,  and  the  city  go  out  to  witness 
the  baptizing  of  the  Neva  by  the  chief  priest.  A  square 
opening  is  cut  in  the  ice,  into  which  the  priest  dips  a 
cross.  He  blesses  the  water,  and  bids  it  be  profitable 
to  man  and  fruitful  to  the  soil  during  the  coming 
year. 


364  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

In  the  spring  there  is  great  rejoicing  when  the  ice 
breaks  up  on  the  river.  Cannon  are  fired  from  the 
fortress  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul  on  the  north  side  of 
the  Neva;  and  the  commander  sets  out  in  a  boat  to 
cross  to  the  Winter  Palace  of  the  czar  on  the  south 
shore. 

No  matter  at  what  hour  of  the  day  or  night  he  comes, 
he  is  shown  at  once  into  the  presence  of  the  czar,  to 
whom  he  presents  a  goblet  filled  with  the  ice-cold  water 
of  the  Neva.  This  is  the  way  of  informing  him  that 
the  river  is  open  to  commerce  once  more.  The  czar 
drinks  to  the  prosperity  of  the  city,  and  then  returns  the 
goblet  filled  with  silver  coin. 

The  goblets  grew  larger  and  larger  from  year  to  year, 
until  they  reached  the  size  of  floor  vases.  The  annual 
opening  of  the  Neva  bade  fair  to  cost  the  czar  a  pretty 
sum,  so  at  last  the  amount  to  be  given  the  commander 
was  set  at  an  invariable  figure. 

The  islands  to  the  west,  at  the  mouth  of  the  Neva, 
contain  the  beautiful  summer  residences  of  the  nobles 
of  St.  Petersburg.  A  favorite  summer  drive  is  to  these 
island,,  which  command  a  charming  view  over  the  Gulf 
of  Finland  to  the  western  sunset. 

St.  Petersburg  is  situated  far  in  the  north.  On  the 
longest  days  of  the  year  the  sun  is  below  the  horizon 
only  four  hours.  If  you  should  mount  to  the  top  of  a 
tall  building,  you  could  see  it  at  any  time. 

The  finest  street  in  the  capital  is  the  Nevskoi  Pros- 
pekt,  which  runs  parallel  with  the  Neva.  It  is  three 
miles  long  and  one  hundred  feet  wide.  Along  this 
street  the  finest  buildings  of  the  city  stand.  Among 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


365 


366  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

them  are  the  Winter  Palace,  and  its  sister  palace,  the 
Hermitage.  At  the  end  of  the  Nevskoi  Prospekt  rises  a 
slender,  lofty,  gilt  spire,  crowned  with  a  golden  ship  as 
a  weathervane.  This  is  the  spire  of  the  Admiralty 
building. 

The  streets  are  thronged  at  all  hours  with  droskies,  — 
curious  Russian  sleighs.  The  drosky  is  a  low  vehicle 
with  a  seat  for  two  persons  and  a  higher  perch  for  the 
driver.  The  seat  for  passengers  seems  to  a  foreigner 
somewhat  insecure,  as  the  back  is  only  an  inch  or  two 
high.  It  sometimes  happens  that  persons  are  thrown 
backward  out  of  the  sleigh,  while  the  coachman  proceeds 
unconsciously  on  his  way. 

Droskies  are  drawn  by  one,  two,  or  three  horses. 
The  harness  is  always  exceedingly  simple,  and  it  seems 
as  if  the  horse  were  running  nearly  free.  The  hand- 
somest horses  look  remarkably  spirited  and  graceful 
under  the  light  harness. 

The  horse  -of  the  one-horse  team  has  over  his  head  a 
wooden  arch,  or  bow,  to  which  most  of  the  harness  is 
attached.  When  another  horse  is  added  to  the  team, 
he  is  harnessed  by  but  a  single  rein.  He  gallops  along 
with  his  head  curving  outward,  and  is  called  a  "mad- 
man." When  a  sleigh  is  drawn  by  three  horses,  they  are 
arranged  so  that  the  central  one  trots  beneath  the 
wooden  arch,  and  those  on  the  sides  are  "madmen." 

The  horses  always  go  at  a  furious  pace,  yet  the  riders 
call  out  to  the  coachman,  "  Faster,  faster ! "  So  they 
fly  like  arrows  through  the  keen  frosty  air  beneath  the 
leaden  sky.  The  coachman  holds  the  slender  ribbon- 
like  reins  with  both  hands.  Sometimes  he  snaps  a  whip 


MODERN    EUROPE.  367 

above  the  horses'  heads,  but  it  almost  never  descends  on 
their  shining  flanks.  He  encourages  them  by  a  kind  of 
clucking  noise,  that  reminds  one  of  the  call  of  an  old 
hen. 

The  Russian  coachman  wears  a  long  coat  of  dark  blue 
or  green  cloth,  coming  well  down  to  his  heels.  The 
skirt  of  the  coat  is  plaited.  Around  the  waist  is  a  leather 
belt.  The  hat  resembles  a  battered  stovepipe.  It  has 
a  curling  brim,  and  the  upper  part  of  the  crown  is 
broader  than  the  lower. 

Peasants  from  the  country  bring  in  their  poor  equi- 
pages, and  stand  by  the  sidewalks  ready  to  be  employed 
by  the  common  people.  The  hire  of  these  vehicles 
is  so  cheap  that  even  the  very  poor  may  be  seen  in 
sleighs. 

Although  the  street  is  crowded  and  nearly  every 
vehicle  is  driven  furiously,  accidents  rarely  occur.  This 
is,  perhaps,  because  the  responsibility  is  laid  on  the  coach- 
men. There  are  no  sleigh  bells  in  Russian  cities.  Their 
jingle  is  confusing,  and  the  shout  of  the  coachman  is  the 
warning  on  the  near  approach  of  two  sleighs.  In  the 
country,  bells  are  allowed. 

St.  Isaac's  Cathedral  is  perhaps  the  most  noted  build- 
ing in  the  city,  as  its  gilded  dome  is  the  first  landmark 
of  St.  Petersburg  visible  to  a  ship  entering  the  Gulf  of 
Finland.  The  site  chosen  was  far  from  being  an  excel- 
lent one,  on  account  of  the  unstable  nature  of  the  land. 
However,  a  whole  forest  of  piles  was  driven  into  the 
marshy  ground  to  support  the  immense  structure. 
Granite  and  gold,  marble  and  bronze,  were  brought 
from  afar,  and  the  work  was  begun. 


368  THE  WORLD  AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

Even  now  the  foundations  seem  insecure.  One  side 
of  the  church  is  braced  with  wooden  poles.  It  would 
be  a  great  loss  if  it  should  fall,  and  all  the  rich  paint- 
ings, statues,  windows,  and  carvings  should  be  de- 
stroyed. 

The  cathedral  is  in  the  shape  of  a  Greek  cross.  The 
great  dome  of  the  roof  is  of  copper,  covered  thickly  with 
gold.  Some  one  has  compared  this  dome  to  a  "  golden 
^  mitre  crowning  the  silhouette  of  the  capital." 

Three  steps  of  Finland  granite  lead  to  the  bronze 
doors  of  the  entrance.  We  pass  into  the  dark,  magnifi- 
cent interior.  Service  is  going  on.  The  worshipers 
are  standing,  for  there  are  no  seats.  Occasionally  one 
kneels,  and  bows  his  head  to  the  marble  floor. 

There  is  no  pealing  organ,  nor  sound  of  any  instru- 
ment. The  only  music  is  that  furnished  by  the  deep 
bass  voices  of  a  hidden  choir  of  men  chanting  responses, 
to  which  the  people  answer  now  and  then. 

Much  incense  fills  the  church  ;  but,  through  the  wav- 
ing blue  smoke,  one  sees  plainly  the  rich  and  jeweled 
dresses  of  the  priests,  and  the  holy  pictures.  The 
Greek  Church,  to  which  most  of  the  Russians  belong, 
forbids  the  worship  of  images  and  statues,  but  allows 
the  worship  of  pictures. 

Along  the  sides  of  the  cathedral  are  shrines,  where 
the  holy  pictures  are  displayed.  Only  the  painted 
face,  hands,  and  feet  of  the  madonna  or  saint  can  be 
seen,  for  its  dress  is  covered  entirely  with  gold,  silver, 
and  jewels.  These  have  been  presented  to  the  picture 
from  time  to  time  by  its  worshipers.  Sometimes  the 
wealth  lavished  on  such  a  picture  amounts  to  seventy- 
five  thousand  dollars. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  369 

While  the  service  is  going  on  in  the  cathedral,  each 
side  shrine  has  its  scores  of  worshipers.  One  by  one 
they  ascend  the  steps,  kiss  the  picture,  cross  themselves, 
mutter  a  prayer,  bow,  and  touch  their  foreheads  to  the 
floor,  and  then  yield  place  to  the  next  eager  worshiper. 
The  paintings  are  covered  with  glass  or  they  soon  would 
be  worn  away. 

One  important  feature  of  the  service  is  the  burning 
of  candles.  Before  every  picture  is  a  silver  stand  with 
places  for  hundreds  of  candles.  They  can  be  bought 
for  a  small  sum  on  entering  the  cathedral,  and  at  any 
time  during  the  service. 

The  worshiper  lights  his  candle,  and  passes  it  up  by 
the  willing  hands  of  the  crowd  to  the  priest,  who  places 
it  in  the  stand  before  the  holy  picture.  One  candle 
rarely  burns  more  than  a  minute,  as  other  candles  come 
up  so  rapidly  that  it  must  be  moved  to  make  room  for 
them.  The  priests  gain  quite  a  revenue  for  the  cathe- 
dral by  selling  candles. 

The  Russians  are  very  devout.  The  church  always 
shows  a  good  proportion  of  men  in  rough  brown  clothes 
and  heavy  high  boots,  worshiping  as  earnestly  as  the 
women.  This  is  a  rather  unusual  sight  in  continental 
Europe. 

Outside  the  churches  in  Russia,  we  see  nuns  and 
wretched  old  men  standing  with  a  book  marked  with 
a  cross  in  their  outstretched  hands.  They  are  beggars 
and  are  asking  alms,  in  some  cases  for  themselves, 
in  others  for  the  institution  to  which  they  belong. 
If  a  passer-by  bestows  a  small  sum  upon  them,  they 
bow  and  mutter  a  prayer  for  him. 


370  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Across  the  river,  within  the  fortress  of  St.  Peter  and 
St.  Paul,  is  a  small  chapel.  It  is  not  so  richly  deco- 
rated as  the  other  churches  of  St.  Petersburg,  and  yet  it 
is  situated  in  the  very  safest  place  of  all,  —  within  the 
citadel.  This  is  because  it  contains  the  dust  of  the 
czars. 

From  Peter  the  Great  down,  all  the  rulers  have  been 
buried  here.  They  are  laid  beneath  the  floor  of  the 
chapel,  and  their  resting  places  are  marked  with  simple 
tombs. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  tomb  is  that  of  the 
late  czar,  Alexander  II.  He  was  one  of  the  most 
enlightened  monarchs  Russia  ever  had.  His  greatest 
act  was  the  freeing  of  the  serfs  throughout  the  empire. 
Although  there  are  many  puzzling  questions  as  to  how 
the  serfs  are'  to  live  and  what  their  exact  relation  to 
the  government  is  to  be,  yet  the  great  step  has  been 
taken.  The  serfs  are  free  ! 

A  few  years  ago  Alexander  II.  was  killed  by  a 
bomb  thrown  by  Nihilists.  Nihilists  form  a  secret  party 
in  Russia,  who  are  opposed  to  things  as  they  are.  They 
rather  vaguely  desire  more  freedom,  and  they  wish  at 
least  change,  in  which  they  may  perhaps  be  bettered. 
They  do  not  propose  any  definite  reform,  but  constitute 
the  element  of  discontent  in  the  empire.  Their  actions 
are  chiefly  directed  against  the  life  of  the  Czar.  They 
hope  that  his  death  may  produce  a  revolution. 

Alexander  III.'s  life  is  made  wretched  by  his  constant 
fear  of  the  Nihilists.  He  lives  in  seclusion  much  of  the 
time.  He  and  his  family  occupy  but  six  rooms,  that 
they  may  be  more  securely  protected  by  the  royal 


MODERN    EUROPE.  371 

guards.  When  he  drives  through  St.  Petersburg, 
several  roads  are  prepared,  as  no  one  must  know  until 
he  passes  just  which  way  he  is  to  come. 

To  be  suspected  of  Nihilism  is  one  of  the  worst  mis- 
fortunes that  can  come  to  a  man.  He  is  certain  to  be 
exiled  to  Siberia,  that  place  which  is  most  terrible  to  all 
Russians.  It  represents  in  their  minds  cold,  privation, 
chains,  hard  labor,  a  lingering  death,  or,  what  is  worse, 
an  endless  death  in  life.  The  friends  of  the  exiles  are 
thousands  of  miles  away,  and  they  are  never  to  see 
them  again. 

Still  Alexander  III.  must  protect  himself ;  and,  with 
his  father's  death  fresh  in  his  mind,  one  can  scarcely 
blame  him  for  his  caution. 

Alexander  II.'s  tomb  resembles  the  others  in  being 
of  white  marble,  with  gold  corners  and  a  gold  cross 
resting  upon  it.  Wreaths  of  flowers  are  daily  laid  upon 
it  by  common  peasants  or  dashing  generals,  who  come  to 
kiss  the  cross  and  fall  on  their  knees  to  utter  a  briei 
prayer.  Many  palm  trees  and  plants  are  growing  neai 
the  tombs,  while  the  walls  of  the  church  are  ornamented 
with  banners,  keys  of  captured  fortresses,  shields,  battle- 
axes,  and  other  trophies  of  war. 

With  the  exception  of  Rome  and  Constantinople,  no 
capital  in  Europe  has  so  many  palaces  as  St.  Peters- 
burg. We  shall  look  only  at  the  Winter  Palace  and 
the  Hermitage. 

The  Winter  Palace  is  the  most  enormous  residence  in 
the  world.  It  is  a  small  town  in  itself,  for  it  houses  six 
thousand  persons.  This  story  may  give  an  idea  of  the 
vastness  of  the  establishment.  An  old  servant  kept  sev- 


372 


THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  373 

eral  cows  for  his  own  use  for  some  time  in  a  garret,  and 
their  presence  was  only  discovered  when  the  palace 
officials  were  instituting  reforms. 

The  building  material  of  the  palace  is  unfortu- 
nately somewhat  flimsy.  Instead  of  using  the  beauti- 
ful Finland  granite  that  can  be  obtained  near  at 
hand,  they  have  used  stucco  which  is  painted  a  brown- 
ish red  and  yellow.  The  exterior  is  much  ornamented 
with  griffins,  angels,  flowerpots,  and  decorated  water- 
spouts. 

The  Winter  Palace,  seen  as  one  among  a  long  line  of 
imposing  buildings,  appears  quite  elegant.  But,  studied 
by  itself,  it  dwindles.  It  is,  like  many  of  the  other  edi- 
fices in  Peter's  city,  a  copy  of  buildings  in  western 
Europe.  As  is  often  the  case  with  copies,  it  is  inferior 
to  the  original. 

The  interior  has  many  great  halls  rich  in  white  paint 
and  gilding,  with  handsome  chairs,  malachite  tables,  and 
huge  ornamental  jars.  The  throne  room  of  Peter  the 
Great  is  hung  with  red  velvet,  embroidered  with  golden 
eagles.  The  several  picture  galleries  contain  pictures  of 
the  czars,  the  great  generals,  and  the  great  Russian 
battlefields. 

The  crown  jewels  form  an  elegant  collection.  -The 
display  of  diamonds  is  exceedingly  fine.  The  Orloff 
diamond  is  the  largest  Russian  diamond.  It  weighs 
more  than  the  Kohinoor,  the  finest  English  diamond,  but 
is  not  so  perfect  a  stone. 

The  Hermitage  is  a  smaller  palace,  adjoining  the 
Winter  Palace  and  connected  with  it  by  a  covered 
bridge.  It  was  called  the  Hermitage,  because  Cathe- 


374  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

rine  II.,  one  of  the  rulers  of  Russia,  was  accustomed  to 
retire  to  it  when  weary  of  the  cares  of  state. 

The  palace  is  now  a  museum,  and  here  may  be  seen 
interesting  relics  of  Peter  the  Great,  such  as  his  turning 
lathe,  cane,  saddle,  and  carvings  in  wood.  His  horse 
and  dogs  have  been  stuffed  and  are  exhibited  with  the 
other  mementos. 

Before  the  Winter  Palace  is  a  noble  statue  of  Peter 
the  Great.  The  czar  is  riding  on  a  rearing  horse.  He 
grasps  the  bridle  with  one  hand ;  the  other  is  raised,  as 
if  calling  into  existence  the  city  that  bears  his  name. 
The  brazen  hoofs  of  his  horse  are  crushing  a  serpent, 
which  represents  the  difficulties  with  which  he  had  to 
contend  in  erecting  St.  Petersburg.  The  base  of  the 
statue  is  a  rough  block  of  granite. 

St.  Petersburg  is  crowded  with  vast  and  elegant 
churches,  palaces,  and  public  buildings.  They  seem  to 
be  drawn  to  the  Neva  as  to  a  magnet,  and  by  moonlight 
the  view  of  both  shores  from  one  of  the  bridges  is 
glorious. 

Next  to  Madrid,  St.  Petersburg  is  the  most  expensive 
European  city  to  live  in.  In  addition  to  the  enormous 
outlay  of  a  fashionable  establishment,  there  are  apt  to 
be  doctor's  bills.  For  the  capital  is  still  an  unhealthy 
city;  indeed,  some  persons  are  never  able  to  enter  its 
limits. 

No  one  in  St.  Petersburg  thinks  of  going  to  bed  before 
three  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Palaces  and  the  homes 
of  generals  are  Open  till  after  two ;  and  dances  and  other 
festivities  are  taking,  place  in  the  warm,  brilliantly 
lighted  rooms,  sweet  with  the  scent  of  blossoming  plants, 


MODERN    EUROPE.  375 

and  gay  with  the  brilliant  uniforms  of  the  men  and  the 
silks  and  diamonds  of  the  women. 

City  stores  are  not  open  till  ten  in  the  morning. 
Then  we  may  see  the  dignified  Russian  merchants  sit- 
ting amid  their  goods  of  tea,  fur,  and  grain.  While 
awaiting  customers  they  count  up  their  profits  by  means 
of  the  abacus.  This  is  a  little  machine  of  balls  strung 
on  wire,  with  which  you  were  doubtless  familiar  not  so 
very  long  ago. 

The  evening  is  passed  by  the  merchant  in  the  draw- 
ing room  with  his  wife  and  friends.  It  is  an  immense 
room  with  a  ceiling  so  lofty  that  one  almost  needs  a 
telescope  to  see  the  design  of  the  cornice.  The  win- 
dows are  double  and  sometimes  triple.  One  pane  fur- 
nishes all  the  ventilation  that  the  Russians  ever  require. 

To  us  Americans  the  room  appears  close,  and  the  heat 
is  intensified  by  a  fire  blazing  within  the  huge  porcelain 
stove. 

On  the  wall  hangs  a  religious  picture,  before  which 
burns  a  lamp.  A  similar  picture  hangs  in  every  prin- 
cipal room  of  the  house  and  in  the  shop  of  the  merchant. 
Every  one  on  entering  the  room  removes  his  hat  or 
crosses  himself.  To  neglect  to  do  this  is  quite  an 
offense  to  the  host. 

The  awe  with  which  every  true  Russian  regards  a 
religious  picture  is  shown  by  this  fact.  When  thieves 
enter  a  room  to  rob  it,  they  cover  the  painting  with  a 
cloth. 

On  the  table  in  the  drawing  room  is  a  samovar.  This 
is  a  bright  silver  urn  used  in  making  tea,  which  is  the 
national  drink  of  Russia.  At  all  hours  of  the  day  the 


376  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

family  gather  informally  about  it ;  in  fact,  it  stands  for 
the  Russian  hearthstone. 

The  tea,  which  is  quite  strong,  is  usually  drunk  from 
glasses.  No  milk  is  used,  only  sugar  or,  perhaps,  a  bit 
of  lemon.  The  tea  drinker  holds  a  lump  of  sugar  in 
his  mouth  and  drinks  the  tea,  which  is  sweetened  by  the 
sugar.  He  thinks  nothing  of  drinking  ten  or  twelve 
glasses  at  a  sitting. 

Our  friend  the  merchant  sometimes  whiles  away  the 
evening  by  reading  the  papers.  The  Russian  sheet  is 
very  small  and  very  general  in  its  news.  If  he  reads 
any  foreign  paper,  he  is  likely  to  find  places  in  some  of 
the  columns  either  cut  out  or  blackened  until  they  are 
illegible.  The  inspector  of  foreign  mail  has  seen  some- 
thing against  the  Russian  government  in  that  English 
or  German  paper,  and  has  exercised  his  right  of  blotting 
it  out. 

Saturday  our  merchant  takes  his  steam  bath  like  a 
good  Russian ;  and  on  Sunday  he  dresses  himself  in  his 
best  and  drives  to  his  club.  There  he  spends  the  time 
in  card  playing.  Cards  are  a  perfectly  safe  resort  to 
those  who  dare  not  discuss  public  mtters,  for  fear 
that  any  of  the  men  around  them  may  be  government 
spies.  Men  have  been  sent  to  Siberia  on  the  merest 
whisper  of  disapproval  in  the  ears  of  two  or  three  con- 
fidential friends.  Sometimes  it  seems  as  if  the  walls 
themselves  had  ears. 

The  Russians  are  ravenous  eaters.  When  one  sees 
them  dining,  he  says  to  himself,  "This  is  the  race 
that  will  devour  the  others." 

Before  the  regular  meal,  the  diners  are  served  from 


MODERN    EUROPE.  377 

side  tables  with  appetizers.  These  take  the  place  of 
the  raw  oysters  of  the  American  table  d'h6te,  and  con- 
sist of  caviare  made  of  sturgeon's  roe ;  herrings,  rad- 
ishes, cheese,  and,  queerest  of  all,  pancakes  stuffed  with 
caviare. 

Cabbage  soup  is  the  national  dish,  and  of  course  ap- 
pears at  the  table.  Other  queer  dishes  are  fish  pie 
stuffed  with  raisins,  and  soup  of  cold  beer  with  bits  of 
meat,  herring,  and  cucumber  floating  in  it,  and  with 
small  pieces  of  ice  to  keep  the  dish  cool. 

Moscow,  the  ancient  capital  of  Russia,  is  situated 
about  four  hundred  miles  to  the  southeast  of  St.  Peters- 
burg. On  approaching  the  city  over  the  undulating 
plain,  we  see,  far  away  on  the  horizon,  what  appears  to 
be  a  dark  green  sea.  It  is  really  the  mass  of  green  roofs 
of  Moscow.  As  we  come  nearer,  we  begin  to  distin- 
guish countless  spires  and  domes. 

The  spires  form  a  delicate  golden  lace  work.  The 
domes  are  either  gilded  or  are  painted  a  bright  blue, 
studded  with  golden  stars.  Sometimes  a  dome  is  cov- 
ered with  bright  green  tiles,  that  glisten  in  the  sunlight 
with  a  silvery  sheen. 

The  appearance  of  the  ancient  city,  "  Mother  Mos- 
cow," as  she  is  affectionately  called,  is  oriental  rather 
than  occidental.  The  architecture  is  truly  Russian, 
and,  unlike  St.  Petersburg,  she  has  copied  almost 
nothing  from  the  west. 

The  city  is  full  of  sharp  contrasts.  Beautiful  churches 
raise  their  lovely  heights  beside  low  and  wretched  hovels. 
Fine  stone  residences  stand  in  the  poorest  and  most 
undesirable  neighborhoods.  The  reason  for  this  incon- 


378  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

gruity  is  that  Moscow  was  burned  in  the  beginning  of 
the  century,  and  has  been  only  partially  rebuilt.  What 
has  been  done  has,  in  many  casps,  been  done  most 
hastily.  Those  citizens  who  could  rebuild  did  so ; 
while  others  let  their  ruined  buildings  remain  or  put  up 
wretched  makeshifts. 

The  citizens  burned  Moscow  to  prevent  its  being 
made  the  winter  quarters  of  the  French  army.  Napo- 
leon had  invaded  Kussia,  and  had  reached  Moscow  just 
at  the  beginning  of  winter.  His  men  from  the  Sparrow 
hills,  a  low  range  on  the  horizon,  had  seen  the  glittering 
spires  and  domes,  and  uttering  the  cry,  "  Moscow  !  Mos- 
cow !  "  they  rushed  down  the  slopes  and  over  the  plain 
to  its  gates.  They  rested  there  but  two  days,  for  the 
departing  Russians  had  fired  their  beloved  city,  rather 
than  have  it  serve  the  ends  of  Napoleon. 

Then  began  the  terrible  retreat  of  the  French.  The 
Russian  skies  poured  snow  upon  them,  the  keen  wind  from 
the  Russian  steppes  chilled  them,  the  Russian  ground 
refused  them  food.  League  after  league  stretched  out 
the  weary  way,  and  the  Cossacks  were  continually  har- 
assing them  by  raids.  Of  nearly  half  a  million  men 
that  Napoleon  led  into  Russia,  only  twelve  thousand 
ever  saw  Paris  again. 

The  Kremlin  is  the  most  celebrated  part  of  Moscow. 
"  Kremlin "  means  citadel,  and  many  other  Russian 
cities. have  Kremlins  besides  Moscow. 

The  Moscow  Kremlin  consists  of  a  most  striking  col- 
lection of  cathedrals,  palaces,  chapels,  and  towers,  sur- 
rounded by  a  lofty  gray  wall.  The  Kremlin  is  entered 
by  five  gates,  each  one  of  which  has  its  own  story.  The 

X 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


379 


380  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

Nicholas  Gate  is  so  called  from  the  picture  of  St.  Nich- 
olas that  hangs  above  it.  The  French  fired  at  the  gate, 
and  the  solid  stonework  was  split  up  to  the  frame  of 
the  picture.  There  the  rent  stopped,  by  miracle  the 
people  think. 

A  picture  of  the  Virgin  hangs  over  another  gate. 
The  French  tried  in  vain  to  get  possession  of  this  paint- 
ing. Their  scaling  ladders  broke  short  off,  and  their 
cannon  shots  curved  aside.  Because  of  this  miracle 
every  one,  whether  native  or  foreigner,  is  obliged  to  lift 
his  hat  on  passing  through  the  gate. 

To  describe  every  building  within  the  Kremlin  would 
fill  a  book  much  larger  than  this  little  one  of  ours.  The 
odd  shapes  of  the  domes  suggest  curious  creations  of 
the  vegetable  and  animal  world.  We  see  green  and 
gold  and  purple  carrots,  turnips,  beets,  and  radishes. 
Some  of  the  domes  are  like  huge  pineapples ;  others 
exactly  resemble  sea  urchins.  The  carving  of  this  near 
tower  reminds  us  of  that  branching  coral,  the  Madre- 
pore ;  and  the  glistening  green  tiling  on  that  pyramidal 
dome  certainly  does  suggest  fish  scales.  That  low 
cupola  resembles  a  Turkish  turban  with  its  spiral  folds. 

Then  the  colors  !  They  are  sky  blue,  bright  red,  deep 
green,  and  yellow,  and  are  so  vivid  that,  with  the  odd 
shapes  of  the  buildings,  we  might  almost  fancy  our- 
selves in  Bagdad,  Damascus,  or  Benares  in  India. 

The  traveler  spending  the  summer  in  Russia  usually 
plans  to  visit  Nijni-Novgorod  during  the  six  weeks  of 
summer  when  a  great  fair  is  held  there.  It  is  the  meet- 
ing place  of  Europe  and  Asia,  and  the  unusual  sights 
of  the  place  will  well  reward  him. 


MODERN    EUROPE.  381 

Several  hundred  years  ago  national  and  city  fairs 
were  held  in  France,  Germany,  and  Russia.  The  two 
former  countries  have  ceased  to  hold  them,  and  this 
renders  the  Russian  fair  more  important. 

Nijui-Novgorod  is  situated  on  the  Volga  River,  at  the 
spot  where  it  is  joined  by  the  Oka  River.  The  Volga 
and  its  tributaries,  stretching  far  to  the  east  and  west, 
form  an  excellent  highway  for  visitors  to  the  fair.  The 
town  consists  of  two  parts,  —  the  permanent  section 
with  its  Kremlin  and  churches,  like  any  other  Russian 
city,  and  the  fair  grounds. 

The  fair  grounds  occupy  a  triangular  strip  of  barren 
ground  between  the  Volga  and  the  Oka.  A  bridge  of 
boats  connects  the  two  divisions. 

The  view  is  remarkably  wide  and  beautiful.  A  bright 
green  rolling  plain  stretches  to  the  far  horizon  beneath 
a  brilliant  blue  sky.  In  the  foreground  are  the  two 
rivers,  crowded  with  vessels  that  have  brought  here 
merchants  and  goods.  The  patch  of  land  devoted  to 
the  fair  is  crowded  thickly  with  two-story  wooden  shops 
with  white  walls  and  red  roofs. 

Although  the  shops  are  thickly  packed  in  the  square 
mile  of  the  fair,  there  is  the  utmost  order  in  all  the 
arrangements.  Each  trade  has  a  street  allotted  to  it, 
according  to  an  old  Eastern  custom.  The  iron  is  near 
the  river ;  the  Persian  carpets  and  rugs  are  all  found 
on  this  street ;  the  cotton  goods  fill  this  next  avenue ; 
and  so  on. 

The  streets  are  sometimes  dusty,  and  at  other  times 
deep  with  mud.  They  run  parallel  and  at  right  angles 
with  one  another,  like  the  lines  on  a  checkerboard. 


382  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

Many  of  the  shops  form  one  side  of  a  covered  arcade. 
A  bench  stands  beside  the  door,  011  which  the  store- 
keeper, a  dignified  Persian,  may  be  seated,  smoking  his 
amber  pipe.  His  dress  consists  of  a  tall  astrachan  cap 
and  an  ample,  flowing  robe,  which  gives  great  majesty  to 
his  movements,  as  he  leads  the  way  into  his  shop  and 
proceeds  to  show  you  his  silken  stuffs  or  amethysts. 

Some  of  the  shops  have  signs  with  the  articles  for 
sale  painted  upon  them.  Other  signs  covered  with 
curious  Russian  letters  swing  across  the  sidewalks  over 
the  heads  of  the  wondering  passers-by. 

Nearly  every  variety  of  goods  may  be  seen  here,  from 
the  sheepskin  overcoat  of  the  peasant  to  religious  books 
and  pictures,  and  brightly  colored  trunks  made  to  hold 
the  modest  trousseau  of  the  Russian  bride.  Siberian 
wood,  boots,  brasses,  samovars,  knives,  lanterns,  and  tiny 
lamps  are  displayed  in  some  windows,  while  others  ex- 
hibit the  choicest  samples  of  the  silversmith's  and  jewel- 
er's art.  Here  are  gems,  cut  and  uncut.  Diamonds, 
sapphires,  and  amethysts  are  heaped  up  with  trinkets 
of  malachite,  lapis  lazuli,  and  amber.  There  are  also, 
articles  of  food,  —  salted  fish,  tea,  and  many  varieties  of 
dried  fruits. 

More  striking,  perhaps,  than  the  variety  of  objects  for 
sale  is  the  wide  difference  in  the  people  that  throng  the 
straight  streets.  Nearly  every  European  and  Asiatic 
country  has  sent  its  representatives. 

Chinamen  with  long  pigtails  jostle  Turks,  East 
Indians,  Germans,  and  Frenchmen  on  the  narrow  side- 
walks. Here  are  Persians,  natives  of  Turkestan,  and 
Circassians,  who  have  come  by  way  of  the  steamers 


MODERN    EUROPE.  383 

on  the  Caspian  Sea.  One  sees  also  every  variety  of 
Russians,  from  the  white,  flat-faced  fisherman  of  Arch- 
angel and  the  mounted  Cossack  policeman  to  the  poor 
peasant. 

There  are  many  buildings  besides  stores  within  the 
limits  of  the  fair.  We  see  a  Roman  Catholic  church,  a 
Greek  church,  and  a  mosque,  besides  several  Chinese 
pagodas.  The  restaurants  are  very  numerous,  and 
nearly  every  hour  they  entertain  parties  of  merchants, 
who  transact  business  to  the  amount  of  thousands  of 
roubles  over  a  dish  of  tea. 

The  waiters  are  Tartars.  They  have  small  slanting 
eyes,  flat  noses,  large  mouths,  and  shaven  heads.  They 
are  dressed  in  coarse  white  linen  shirts  and  trousers. 
They  rarely  wear  boots.  They  have  pieces  of  cotton 
cloth  tied  about  their  ankles  for  stockings,  and  rough 
sandals  on  their  feet. 

The  places  of  amusement  are  collected  in  another 
quarter  of  the  grounds.  Here  are  theaters  and  halls 
where  jugglers,  singers,  and  dancers  entertain  the 
motley  crowd.  There  is  much  dissipation  and  extrava- 
gance going  on.  It  is  said  that  in  these  few  weeks  "  a 
Russian  merchant  will  drink  more  champagne  than  a 
whole  provincial  town  in  France  consumes  in  a  year." 

The  signal  for  the  closing  of  the  fair  is  the  hauling 
down  of  two  white  flags  from  the  stone  posts  before  the 
house  occupied  by  the  governor  of  the  fair.  Then 
the  four  or  five  hundred  thousand  people  disperse  to 
the  four  quarters  of  the  earth. 

The  business  prosperity  of  Russia  and,  to  some  ex- 
tent, of  the  other  countries,  depends  on  the  prices  set 


384  THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 

upon  goods  and  the  orders  that  have  been  given  at  the 
fair. 

In  going  from  Moscow  to  ISTijni-Novgorod,  we  have 
had  glimpses  from  the  train  windows  that  have  enabled 
us  to  form  some  idea  of  central  Russia.  Much  of  the 
interior  of  Russia  consists  of  dense  forests.  The  more 
northern  forests  are  of  pine ;  the  southern  are  of  oak 
and  other  hard  wood  trees.  Some  of  these  forests  grow 
on  swampy  land,  and  stretch  away  for  miles  and  miles 
without  the  least  break  in  the  ranks  of  trees. 

Aside  from  the  railroads,  the  Volga  River  is  the  great 
central  highway  of  the  country.  It  has  been  called  the 
Russian  Mississippi  and,  like  its  American  namesake, 
its  tributaries  reach  to  the  remote  boundaries  of  the 
empire. 

Its  valley  is  three  times  as  large  as  France.  Canals 
unite  the  Volga  with  the  Neva  and  the  Don.  So  the 
Caspian  Sea,  the  Black  Sea,  the  Gulf  of  Finland,  and 
even  the  far  away  White  Sea  are  connected  by  the  net- 
work of  canals. 

Let  us  join  a  party  of  merchants  departing  from 
Nijni-Novgorod,  and  descend  the  Volga  as  far  as  Astra- 
chan.  Our  steamer  is  built  on  an  American  model,  and 
is  crowded  with  the  oddly  dressed  Turks,  Persians, 
Armenians,  and  Circassians  that  have  lately  been  giving 
the  streets  of  Nijni-Novgorod  their  quaintly  picturesque 
look. 

The  left  bank  of  the  Volga  is  low  and  sandy ;  the 
right  is  high  and  covered  with  wood.  The  sunset  light, 
turning  the  waters  of  the  wide  river  to  purple  and 
gold,  is  most  beautiful.  Little  boats  are  being  drawn 


MODERN    EUROPE.  385 

along  with  ropes  by  women  in  scarlet  skirts,  who  hasten 
lightly  along  the  shore  beneath  the  tall  dark  cliffs. 

Here  come  several  barges  laden  with  iron,  each  of 
which  is  towed  by  a  band  of  savage-looking  laborers. 
They  do  not  appear  much  more  innocent  than  the  con- 
victs who  formerly  were  employed  in  this  work. 

Autumn  is  the  time  when  the  Volga  is  at  its  lowest. 
Then  steamers  frequently  run  aground,  although  they 
are  built  so  as  to  sink  only  about  four  or  five  feet  in  the 
water.  Captains  sometimes  take  a  third  class  of  pas- 
sengers on  board  and  give  them  a  free  passage,  on  con- 
dition that  they  agree  to  jump  into  the  water  and  push 
off  the  steamer  whenever  she  runs  aground. 

There  is  a  difference  of  forty-five  feet  in  the  height  of 
the  Volga  in  the  spring  and  fall.  Because  its  spring 
rise  is  so  great,  very  few  towns  and  villages  are  built  on 
the  river  shore.  Most  of  them  are  situated  a  great 
distance  away  on  the  plain. 

The  most  important  tributary  of  the  Volga  on  the 
east  is  the  Kara.  Up  this  river  go  the  bands  of  work- 
men for  the  Ural  Mountains  ;  and,  at  the  head  waters 
of  the  Kara,  begins  the  desolate  pathway  into  Siberia 
which  has  been  trod  by  so  many  despairing  men.  It  is 
often  six  months,  and  sometimes  a  year,  before  they 
reach  the  desolate  place  that  is  henceforth  to  be  their 
home. 

There  are  several  large  cities  near  the  Volga,  but  we 
must  not  linger  on  our  way  to  Astrachan.  This  city  is 
the  most  important  commercial  port  on  the  Caspian 
Sea.  There  are  two  articles  which  form  the  staple  of 
its  trade.  Can  you  guess  one  of  them  ?  The  name  of 
the  town  tells  you. 


•386  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

I  used  to  think  that  astrachan  was  a  fur,  and  it 
seemed  very  singular  to  think  that  furs  could  be  ob- 
tained so  far  south.  But  astrachan  is  not  a  fur.  It  is 
the  wool  of  a  little  newborn  lamb.  The  sooner  the 
lamb  is  killed  after  its  birth,  the  silkier  and  more  valu- 
able is  its  fleece. 

The  preparation  of  astrachan  is  one  of  the  indus- 
tries of  Persia  and  other  countries  of  central  Asia. 
The  black,  gray,  and  white  fleeces  are  sent  across 
the  Caspian  Sea  to  Astrachan.  Thence  they  are  ex- 
ported to  the  countries  of  western  Europe  and  to 
America. 

The  other  great  article  of  export  is  oil.  In  Europe 
oil  is  largely  used  instead  of  coal.  A  vast  quantity  of 
oil  has  been  imported  from  the  United  States,  but  now 
this  prosperous  trade  is  threatened  by  the  profitable 
yield  of  oil  wells  in  Russia.  These  oil  wells  were  dis- 
covered at  Baku,  on  the  western  side  of  the  Caspian 
Sea.  Steamers  have  been  built  containing  large  oil 
tanks,  in  which  the  crude  oil  is  taken  to  Astrachan. 
From  there  it  is  sent  up  the  Volga,  and  distributed 
throughout  Russia  and  thence  to  the  rest  of  Europe. 

As  the  cost  of  transportation  from  Russia  to  western 
Europe  is  less  than  the  cost  of  transportation  from  our 
country,  the  United  States  will,  sooner  or  later,  be 
obliged  to  yield  the  field  to  Russia  in  all  countries  but 
England. 

The  wheat  fields  of  Russia  cover  an  enormous  amount 
of  territory.  They  reach  from  the  Baltic  to  the  Black 
Sea,  and  from  the  borders  of  Austria  to  the  Ural  Moun- 
tains. In  the  wheat  land  are  included  those  plains 


MODERN    EUROPE.  387 

known  as  the  steppes.  They  have  a  fine  black  soil,  on 
which  is  raised  the  finest  and  whitest  wheat. 

One  might  traverse  the  wheat  region  in  a  railroad 
train  for  weeks,  and  still  the  same  level  acres  of  ground 
would  stretch  away  in  unlimited  extent  to  the  horizon. 
There  are  no  trees,  fences,  nor  houses  to  break  the 
monotony. 

At  last  comes  a  sign  of  life,  for  here  is  a  rude  carriage 
road  or,  perhaps  I  should  say,  a  cart  track.  Now  the 
plains  are  dotted  here  and  there  with  villages,  where 
the  houses  are  miserably  wretched,  and  the  people 
utterly  ignorant  and  desperately  poor.  How  serious 
they  are !  The  line  describing  an  old  English  king, 
"  He  never  smiled  again,"  might  be  used  for  them,  only 
that  implies  that  one  has  smiled,  while  these  wooden- 
faced  peasants  appear  never  to  have  done  so  from  in- 
fancy. 

In  some  sections  of  the  country  the  tall,  silky,  yellow 
grass  grows  that  is  known  as  pampas  grass. 

The  extreme  south  of  Russia  produces  delicious 
fruits,  such  as  peaches,  plums,  apricots,  cherries,  and 
strawberries.  This  latter  fruit  is  so  abundant  in  some 
parts  of  Russia  that  it  is  served  in  soup  plates.  The 
peninsula  of  Crimea,  on  the  northern  shore  of  the 
Black  Sea,  has  a  climate  resembling  that  of  France  and 
Italy.  Delicious  wines  are  made  from  the  luscious  grapes 
that  are  raised  here. 

But  the  Crimea  is  also  noted  as  being  the  scene  of 
one  of  those  wars  between  Turkey  and  Russia  that  we 
have  mentioned  before.  France  and  England  supported 
the  Turks.  The  Crimean  war  is  celebrated  for  two 


388 


THE   WORLD   AND   ITS   PEOPLE. 


facts,   showing  the  bravery  of  English   men   and   the 
bravery  of  English  women. 

In  the  battle  of  Balaclava,  the  order  came  for  a  lighi 
brigade  of  cavalry  to  charge  upon  a  body  of  artillery. 


THE     HEIGHTS    OF    ALMA. 


This  order  was  a  mistake,  for  it  is  one  of  the  first  laws 
of  military  tactics  that  artillery  are  to  be  met  by  in- 
fantry, never  by  cavalry.  But  the  order  had  come,  and 


MODERN    EUROPE.  389 

obedience  is  the  highest  law  in  the  army.  This  the 
light  brigade  showed  to  the  world;  for,  with  cannon 
blazing  all  about  them,  they  rode  swiftly  for  a  mile 
and  a  half  across  the  plain.  Such  was  the  daring,  swift- 
ness, and  unexpectedness  of  their  charge  that  they 
actually  reached  the  battery  and  captured  some  of  the 
guns. 

However,  it  was  impossible  to  hold  their  position,  and 
they  rode  back.  But  the  cruel  guns  had  done  their 
work,  and  two-thirds  of  the  gallant  red-coat  soldiers  lay 
bleeding  and  dying  on  that  wide  plain. 

The  English  women  ranked  with  the  men  in  bravery. 
Led  by  Florence  Nightingale,  they  nursed  the  sick  in 
the  hospitals  during  the  years  made  memorable  by  ter- 
rible battlefields,  such  as  Alma  and  Iiikerman,  and  by 
the  wearisome  seige  of  Sevastopol. 

All  through  southern  Russia  are  immense  wheat 
farms  owned  by  wealthy  men.  Thirty  thousand  acres 
of  wheat  are  cultivated  yearly  by  one  of  these  large 
proprietors,  and  he  owns  a  flock  of  a  million  sheep  be- 
sides. 

Two  wealthy  Germans  were  once  quarreling  as  to 
which  was  the  richer.  They  were  estimating  the  num- 
ber of  their  sheep,  when  a  Russian  gentleman  broke  into 
the  discussion.  "  I  will  bet,"  said  he,  "  that  the  dogs  of 
my  flocks  are  more  numerous  than  all  of  your  sheep  put 
together."  The  Russian  won  the  bet. 

The  buildings  of  the  farm  make  a  small  village  in 
themselves.  There  are  houses,  cottages  for  laborers, 
stables  for  the  five  hundred  horses  and  the  thousands 
of  sheep,  orangeries,  and  mills. 


390  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS    PEOPLE. 

In  harvesting,  the  American  threshing  machine  is  used, 
which  is  propelled  by  the  English  steam  engine.  It  is 
a  fascinating  sight  to  see  these  perfect  instruments  at 
work,  and  proves  plainly  that  the  educated  Russians  are 
a  practical,  enterprising  people,  fully  alive  to  the  ad- 
vances of  the  times. 

The  villages  of  the  peasants  form  a  sad  contrast. 
The  houses  are  small  and  wooden.  The  floors  are  of 
earth.  Around  the  walls  are  small  bunks  where  the 
children  sleep. 

Their  parents  sleep  on  the  flat  top  of  the  great  stove. 
This  sounds  rather  dangerous,  but  it  is  not  so.  The 
fire  only  smoulders ;  and  a  feather  bed  is  placed  on  the 
stove,  so  thick  as  to  be  a  sufficient  protection  against  a 
much  hotter  fire  than  ever  burns  in  the  stove  by  night. 
The  hens  seem  as  much  at  home  as  the  children,  and 
roost  on  the  backs  of  chairs. 

In  winter  the  windows  are  tightly  closed;  there  is 
very  little  ventilation,  and  the  atmosphere  seems  very 
close  to  a  foreigner.  The  Russians  dress  almost  too 
warmly.  They  are  more  afraid  of  draughts  than  any 
other  people  of  Europe. 

Before  every  little  house  is  an  acre  of  land.  It  is 
rarely  cultivated  as  it  should  be.  There  are  always 
cabbages  to  make  the  favorite  soup ;  but,  aside  from  that 
crop,  there  is  very  little  else. 

The  slovenliness  of  the  peasant  is  largely  due  to  the 
laws  under  which  he  lives.  They  are  such  as  to  quench 
all  ambition  of  rising  in  life.  When  the  peasants  were 
freed,  each  community  formed  itself  into  a  society 
known  as  the  mur.  The  mur  borrowed  money  from 


MODERN    EUROPE.  391 

the  government  to  purchase  land  with,  which  was 
divided  almost  equally  among  the  families  of  the  mur. 

Each  head  of  a  family  is  obliged  to  pay  a  certain 
amount  yearly  toward  paying  off  this  borrowed  money. 
If  a  man  improves  his  land  and  makes  it  of  more  value, 
he  has  to  pay  a  larger  tax.  So  he  really  does  not  gain 
much  in  the  end  by  this  exertion. 

Then,  again,  the  lots  are  frequently  changed.  As  a 
peasant  rarely  holds  his  acre  more  than  three  years, 
he  cares  very  little  how  he  improves  it.  The  frequent 
fires  are  another  enemy.  There  are  no  fire  engines ; 
and,  as  the  houses  are  made  of  wood,  a  whole  village  is 
often  consumed  like  tinder.  After  saving  their  scanty 
stock  of  furniture,  the  peasants  stand  looking  on  in 
resigned  despair. 

In  the  north  of  Russia  the  "red  cook,"  a  Russian 
name  for  fire,  sweeps  away  many  villages  every  summer 
and  fall.  Instead  of  seeking  some  means  to  stop  the 
fury  of  the  fire,  the  peasant  merely  stares  and  murmurs, 
"  Dear  me  !  those  fires  have  begun  again  !  " 

The  village  that  we  have  been  visiting  has  almost  no 
trees.  The  peasants  sometimes  plant-  them ;  but,  as 
they  almost  invariably  forget  to  water  them,  they  die. 

In  the  center  of  the  village  is  the  well.  The  water  is 
raised  in  a  bucket  by  means  of  a  great  well  sweep  that 
reminds  us  of  the  wells  in  New  England  fifty  years  ago. 
But  the  holy  picture  near  at  hand  with  a  lamp  burning 
before  it,  to  which  the  daughters  of  the  tiny  hamlet 
pray  while  waiting  their  turn  at  the  well,  is  a  gentle 
reminder  that  we  are  thousands  of  miles  from  home. 

On  Saturday  every  Russian  throughout  the  empire 


392  THE   WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

takes  his  vapor  bath.  This  is  the  custom  in  the  cities 
and  in  the  villages.  There  are  public  baths  in  the 
large  cities.  In  the  country  some  outbuilding  is  gen- 
erally used  as  a  bathroom. 

In  one  corner  of  the  room  is  either  a  stove  with  a 
blazing  fire  or  a  couple  of  red-hot  stones.  Cold  water 
is  poured  upon  them,  and  a  great  steam  arises.  In  this 
hot  air  the  bathers  swelter ;  often  they  climb  to  shelves 
on  the  wall  near  the  ceiling,  where  the  temperature  is 
still  hotter.  There  they  lie,  fanning  themselves  with 
branches  of  birch  twigs  to  bring  the  hot  air  closer 
around  them. 

When  they  have  steamed  enough,  they  cool  down 
gradually  by  having  first  hot  and  then  cold  water 
poured  over  them.  Sometimes,  directly  after  leaving 
this  bath,  they  throw  themselves  into  a  snowbank  or 
plunge  into  an  ice  cold  stream.  This,  they  assert, 
makes  them  wonderfully  vigorous.  And,  strange  to 
say,  it  rarely  seems  to  do  them  any  harm. 

Before  we  leave  Russia,  I  want  to  tell  you  something 
of  two  different  classes  of  people  included  in  the  great 
empire.  They  are  the  Finns  on  the  northwest  and  the 
Cossacks  on  the  southeast  and  east. 

Finland  is  a  country  about  the  size  of  England  and 
Scotland.  Its  population  is  half  that  of  London.  Much 
of  its  surface  is  covered  with  forests,  marshes,  lakes,  and 
rivers. 

Finland  belonged  for  many  years  to  Sweden,  but 
Russia  had  always  wanted  to  possess  it.  There  were 
many  wars  between  the  two  nations,  and  at  last  Sweden 
ceded  it  to  Russia. 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


393 


GROUP     OF    FINNS, 


394  THE  WORLD   AND   ITS  PEOPLE. 

Finland  is  united  to  Russia  very  much  as  Norway  is 
united  to  Sweden.  The  smaller  country  has  its  own 
laws  and  currency.  Its  parliament  meets  at  Helsingfors, 
the  capital.  Helsingfors  is  quite  a  grand  city,  though 
the  dazzling  white  houses  are  curiously  painted  to  look 
as  if  covered  with  a  deep,  soft  fall  of  snow0 

The  chief  crops  are  corn  and  potatoes.  When  the 
corn  crop  fails,  the  poor  laborers  and  their  families  are 
obliged  to  beg  their  bread  from  door  to  door.  The 
owners  of  the  farm,  who  aid  their  poorer  friends  all 
they  can,  are  supported  by  the  products  of  the  potato 
field  and  the  dairy.  They  also  go  to  the  forests  and 
become  lumbermen  and  charcoal-burners. 

Charcoal  is  simply  burned  wood,  but  great  care  must 
be  exercised  in  the  process  of  burning.  A  rude  chimney 
is  built,  and  about  this  are  leaned  the  trunks  of  trees  so 
as  to  form  a  kind  of  conical  mound.  The  timber  is  then 
covered  over  with  earth.  Openings  are  bored  through 
the  heap  to  admit  a  little  air.  A  fire  is  kindled  in  the 
chimney,  which,  rushing  out  through  the  holes,  finally 
chars  the  whole  mound  of  timber  and  leaves  it  charcoal. 

The  Cossacks  are  an  odd,  roving  kind  of  people. 
They  are  looked  upon  more  as  allies  than  as  subjects  of 
the  czar.  They  were  once  at  war  with  the  Russians 
and  resisted  their  advances  southward  and  eastward, 
but  they  finally  submitted  to  the  czar  and  have  become 
his  useful  servants. 

You  must  know  that  the  Cossacks  are  among  the 
finest  horsemen  in  the  world.  When  mounted,  they 
seem  like  centaurs,  so  perfect  is  the  understanding 
between  horse  and  man.  The  Cossacks,  instead  of  pay- 


MODERN    EUROPE. 


395 


ing  taxes,  furnish  the  czar  with  a  definite  number  of 
men  to  serve  in  the  army  for  a  certain  term  of  years. 

There  are  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  Cossacks  in 
the  Russian  army.  They  form  a  part  of  the  cavalry,  but 
have  different  duties  from  the  regular  cavalry.  They 
are  the  scouts,  the  outposts,  the  orderlies  who  carry 
secret  messages  and  dispatches.  If  any  peculiar  and 
difficult  service  is  to  be  done,  a  Cossack  is  sent  for. 


COSSACKS. 


They  have  been  called  the  living  ramparts  of  Russia 
from  the  sea  of  Okhotsk  to  the  river  Don. 

These  irregular  troops  are  the  eye  and  ear  of  the 
army.  At  night  they  mount  guard,  while  the  army 
sleeps  in  perfect  peace.  It  trusts  the  Cossacks,  who 
seem  to  scent  the  enemy  from  afar.  They  move  with 
great  swiftness  and  silence.  Their  advent  is  sure  to  be 
unexpected  and  unprepared  for  by  the  enemy.  A  squad 


396  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

of  one  hundred  Cossacks  makes  less  noise  than  does  one 
cavalry  officer. 

The  dress  of  the  Cossack  is  very  simple,  but  it  is 
worn  with  a  certain  jaunty  air.  A  dark  blue  frock  coat 
hooked  in  front,  and  dark  blue  trousers  stuffed  into 
cavalry  boots,  with  a  flat  visor  cap,  complete  his  costume. 
His  arms  are  a  short  gun  strapped  on  his  back  and  a 
saber.  A  lance  some  ten  feet  long  is  fastened  to  the 
right  arm,  and  is  further  supported  by  a  socket  in  the 
right  stirrup  in  which  its  sharp  point  rests. 

The  Cossack  also  carries  a  whip,  with  which  he  con- 
tinually strikes  his  horse.  There  is  no  cruelty  in  this 
frequent  use  of  the  whip,  for  the  horse  would  forget  to 
move  if  he  were  not  thus  reminded.  The  horses  are 
somewhat  heavy  looking  animals  with  large  heads.  But 
they  are  under  perfect  control ;  and  the  Cossack  is  able 
to  stand  upright  in  the  saddle,  to  lie  down  in  the  saddle, 
to  drop  his  whip,  and,  leaning  down  to  the  ground,  to 
raise  it  again,  without  taking  his  feet  from  the  stirrups. 

One  tactic  for  which  they  are  famous  is  this.  They 
dismount  just  before  action  and  make  their  horses  lie 
down  ;  then,  sheltering  themselves  behind  the  novel 
breastwork,  they  rest  their  guns  upon  it  and  fire. 

Cossacks  show  great  consideration  for  their  horses. 
They  are  shod  only  on  the  forefeet.  In  a  steady  march 
the  men  dismount  every  hour  and  walk  by  their  horses' 
sides  for  a  few  moments  to  relieve  them.  When  they 
camp,  they  attend  first  to  the  wants  of  the  horses.  The 
saddles  are  removed,  and  the  animals  are  carefully  fed. 

Then  it  is  that  we  discover  some  of  the  uses  of  those 
strange  lances.  Some  are  driven  into  the  ground,  arid 


MODERN    EUROPE.  397 

to  them  the  horses  are  tethered.  Others  are  used  to 
make  tripods  from  which  the  camp  kettles  are  swung. 
Later  in  the  day  they  serve  as  tent  poles. 

Now  a  foraging  party  returns  to  the  camp.  They  sing 
ringing  songs  as  they  approach,  and  all  their  comrades 
come  out  to  meet  them.  Every  one  rejoices  in  the 
squealing  pigs  and  the  squeaking  ducks,  geese,  and  hens, 
that  hang  at  the  saddlebow.  There  is  no  pity  for  the 
meek  sheep  which,  almost  before  they  are  aware  of  the 
fact,  are  cooking  in  the  kettles.  The  horses  are  not 
forgotten,  for  two  men  in  the  rear  of  the  returning  party 
are  almost  invisible,  owing  to  the  mountains  of  hay  that 
are  suspended  from  their  lances. 

Before  the  Cossacks  eat,  they  wash  their  faces  and  oil 
their  hair.  Then,  with  cap  raised,  they  cross  themselves 
and  say  a  short  prayer  over  their  food.  Half  a  dozen 
eat  from  the  same  dish  with  wooden  spoons,  or  hack 
away  with  their  daggers  at  huge  joints  of  meat.  The 
meal  generally  ends  with  scalding  hot  tea  from  the 
samovar. 

This  drink  is  so  popular  throughout  Russia  that  fees 
paid  by  travelers,  which  in  France  are  known  as  "pour- 
boire,"  which  means  "  for  drink,"  are  here  called  "  tea 
money." 

After  this  refreshment,  the  Cossacks  swing  themselves 
upon  their  saddles  by  means  of  the  lances ;  and,  break- 
ing into  one  of  their  wild  songs,  are  off  across  the  plain 
like  lightning. 

Before  battle  the  Cossack  always  makes  as  careful  a 
toilet  as  if  he  were  going  to  a  ball.  It  is  his  belief  that 
he  will  enter  heaven  more  easily  if  he  is  perfectly  clean 


398  THE  WORLD   AND    ITS   PEOPLE. 

at  the  time  of  his  death.  This  strange  belief  is  fixed  in 
his  mind  most  strongly. 

After  the  battle  the  bands  of  Cossacks  stand  in  order 
and  sing  mournful  hymns  in  memory  of  their  fallen 
comrades.  Many  gaps  in  the  line  are  purposely  left,  to 
show  where  friends  stood  that  morning.  Tears  fill  the 
eyes  of  the  rough  soldiers  as  they  gaze  at  the  empty 
places  beside  them. 

The  Cossacks  are  a  wonderfully  interesting  people, 
but  they  are  only  one  among  many  such  peoples  through- 
out the  broad  empire  of  Russia.  Russia  is  the  widest 
empire,  and  one  of  the  strongest,  under  the  sun.  The 
people  are  bound  together  by  their  affection  and  rever- 
ence for  the  czar.  They  look  upon  him  as  their  father. 
Even  on  the  frontiers  of  Siberia  the  poor  peasants  return 
thanks  to  God  for  giving  them  such  a  good  czar. 

It  seems  as  if  it  might  be  possible  for  the  czar  to  give 
them  more  comfort  and  happiness,  but  no  doubt  he  gives 
them  all  the  benefits  he  can.  After  all,  people  cannot 
be  raised ;  they  must  raise  themselves, 


INDEX. 


Abbotsford,  66,  67. 
Acropolis,  The,  338-342. 
•  Agassiz,  Louis,  241,  242. 
Alexander  II.,  370,  371. 
Alexander  III.,  370,  371. 
Alhambra,  The,  279,  290-293. 
Alps,  The,  15,  301,  302. 
Alsace,  170-172. 
Amsterdam,  143,  144,  151,  153. 
Andersen,  Hans,  119,  120,  122, 

129. 

Anglesea  Island,  18. 
Antwerp,  15(5,  1(53-165. 
Antwerp  Cathedral,  164. 
Apennines,  301-303. 
Appian  Way,  318,  319. 
Arcadia,  347. 

Arch  of  Titus,  The,  320,  323. 
Arch  of  Triumph,  Paris,  259. 
Athens,  336-342. 
Austria,  17,  198,  202-211. 
Ayreshire,  73-75. 

Bacharach,  178,  179. 
Balmoral  Castle,  70. 
Baltic  Sea,  15. 
Bank  of  England,  24. 
Baths  of  Caracalla,  320,  324. 
Bavaria,  198,  202,  217,  218. 
Belfast,  90. 

Belgium,  16,  17,  154-167. 
Bergen,  102,  104,  105. 
Berlin,  180-193. 
Berne,  246,  247. 

Bernese  Oberland,  226,  235,  240, 
244. 


125, 


241, 


Beveland,  North,  135. 

Beveland,  South,  135. 

Bideford,  58. 

Billingsgate,  24. 

Bingen,  177,  178. 

Biscay,  Bay  of,  272,  273. 

Black  Forest,  The,  198,  219,  220. 

Black  Sea,  15,  198,  212,  384,  387. 

Blarney  Castle,  84. 

Bois  de  Boulogne,  250,  252,  263,  264. 

Bonaparte,  Napoleon,  188,  190,  258- 

L'M.  L'I57,  2(58,313,378. 
Bosch,  The,  151,  152. 
Bosphorus,  The,  350-352. 
Brandenburg  Gate,  Berlin,  188. 
British  Isles,  14. 
British  Museum,  38. 
Broek,  144,  145. 
Bruges,  156,  158-162. 
Bruges,  Belfry  of,  161. 
Brussels,  1(55-167. 
Buckingham  Palace,  29. 
Buda-Pesth,  206-,  208-211. 
Bulgaria,  198,  350. 
Burns,  Robert,  73-75. 

Caledonian  Canal,  70,  71. 
Cambridge  University,  54,  55. 
Canterbury,  49. 
Capri,  327,  334. 
Castle  of  St.  Angelo,  320,  324. 
Chamouni,  244,  245,  248. 
Champs  ^lysees,  249,  250. 
Channel  Islands,  18. 
Charterhouse  School,  25. 


Cheviot  Hills,  59.'' 
399 


400 


INDEX. 


Christ's  Hospital,  25. 

Christiania,  94,  100-102,  105. 

Christiansborg  Palace,  123,  125. 

Coblenz,  180-182. 

Coliseum,  The,  320-323. 

Cologne,  182-185. 

Cologne     Cathedral,   165,   183,   185, 

277. 

Constance,  Lake,  170. 
Constantinople,  293,  350-356,  362,  371. 
Copenhagen,  120-124. 
Cordova,  293,  294. 
Cork,  83,  84. 

Cossacks,  378,  383,  394-398. 
Coveut  Garden,  24. 
Crimea,  387-389. 
Crystal  Palace,  38,  39. 

Danube,  River,  15,  197-212,  358. 
Denmark,  17,  117,  119-132. 
Derby  races,  42,  43. 
Derwentwater,  47. 
Devonshire,  56,  59. 
Dneiper  River,  360. 
Doge's  Palace,  Venice,  313,  314. 
Don  River,  360,  384. 
Drachenfels,  181, 182. 
Dresden,  193-195. 
Dryburgh  Abbey,  66. 
Dublin,  79,  87-89. 
Dublin  University,  88. 

East  End,  London,  27-29. 
Eddystone  Light,  57,  58. 
Edinburgh,  62-66,  338. 
Edinburgh  Castle,  63,  64. 
Elbe  River,  192,  193,  196,  197. 
Elsinore,  131. 
England,  16, 17,  19,59. 
Europe,  13-18,  225. 
Exchange,  The,  Copenhagen,  123. 

Falun,  114. 
Fingal's  Cave,  76,  77. 
Finland,  360,  392-394. 
Florence,  316,  317. 
Forum,  Roman,  320,  323. 


France,  16,  17,  266-278. 
Frederick  the  Great,  188-191. 

Galway,  86,  87. 

Geneva,  Lake,  244,  247. 

Genoa,  301,  304,  315,  316. 

Germany,  16,  17,  170,  186,  187,  198, 

205,  213-225. 

Ghent,  156,  158,  159,  161-163.. 
Giant's  Causeway,  90,  91. 
Glasgow,  60,  72,  73. 
Goldsmith,  25. 
Gotha  Canal,  114,  116-119. 
Gothenburg,  114. 
Grand  St.  Bernard,  245,  246. 
Granada,  279,  290-293,  295. 
Great  Britain,  18,  19. 
Greece,  16,  335-350. 
Green  Vault,  Dresden,  195. 
Greenwich,  39. 
Gutenberg,  147,  148,  177. 

Haarlem,  145-148. 
Haarlem  Lake,  149. 
Hague,  The,  151-153. 
Hamburg,  195-197,  268. 
Hammerfest,  109,  110. 
Hartz  Mountains,  219,  221-223. 
Havre,  186,  267,  268. 
Hebrides,  18,  75-77. 
Heidelberg,  173-177. 
Heidelberg  Castle,  174-176. 
Henry  VII.'s  Chapel,  35. 
Highlands,  60,  69-72. 
Holland,  17,  133-154. 
Holyrood  Palace,  64,  65. 
Hotel  de  Ville,  l(i(i. 
Hotel  des  Invalides,  259-261. 
Houses  of  Parliament,  36,  37. 
Hungary,  198,  205-211,  223-225. 
Hyde  Park,  29,  30. 

Inn  River,  199,  202. 
Interlaken,  240,  241. 
lona,  76. 

Ionian  Islands,  347,  348. 
Ireland,  18,  78-91. 


INDEX. 


401 


Isar  River,  198,  199. 
Isle  of  Man,  18. 
Isle  of  Wight,  18,  56. 
Italy,  16,  17,  301-334. 

Jungfrau,  238,  240,  241. 

Katrine,  Loch,  69. 
Kenilworth  Castle,  53,  54. 
Kensington  Gardens,  30,  31. 
Kensington  Palace,  31. 
Killarney,  Lakes  of,  85. 
Kremlin,  The,  378-380. 
Kronberg,  Castle  of,  131,  132. 

Ladoga,  Lake,  118. 

Lamb,  Charles,  25. 

Lambeth  Palace,  37. 

Landes,  The,  273. 

Lapland,  111-113. 

Ley  den,  148-151. 

Limerick,  79,  86,  87. 

Linnaeus,  115. 

Lion  of  Lucerne,  236-238. 

Liverpool,  19,  20,  268. 

Lofoden  Islands,  107-109. 

Lomond,  Loch,  69. 

London,  19,  22-41,  44,  268. 

London  Bridge,  23. 

London,  Tower  of,  25-27. 

Lorelei,  179. 

Louvre,  The,  254,  255,  295. 

Lowlands,  60. 

Lucerne,  Lake,  226,  236,  239,  247. 

Ludwig  Strasse,  200. 

Madrid,  193,  281,  282,  295-297,  374. 
Maelar  Lake,  115. 
Magdalen  College,  55. 
Manchester,  48. 
Marathon,  337,  342,  343. 
Maria  Theresa,  207. 
Marseilles,  186,  275. 
Matterhorn,  230-236,  307. 
Melrose  Abbey,  66. 
Mersey  River,  19,  20. 
Michael  Angelo,  125. 


Milan,  304-308. 

Milan  Cathedral,  306-308. 

Mont  Blanc,  226,  230,  244-246,  248, 

249,  307. 

Montenegro,  17,  350,  357,  359. 
Moore,  Thomas,  88. 
Moscow,  361,  377-380. 
Munich,  186,  199-202. 
Museum  of  Northern  Antiquities,  127. 

Naples,  301,  327-334. 

Napoleon  Bonaparte,  188,  190,  258- 

261,  267,  268,  313,  378. 
Neckar  River,  173,  174. 
Neva  River,  361,  363,  364,  374,  384. 
Nevskoi  Prospekt,  364-367. 
Newgate  Prison,  25. 
Nijni  Novgorod,  380-384. 
North  Cape,  106,  109-111. 
Norway,  17,  92-113. 
Notre  Dame,  Paris,  261-263. 

Ober  Ammergau,  218. 
Odense,  120. 
Onega,  Lake,  118. 
Orange,  Prince  of,  150,  151. 
Orkney  Islands,  16,  18. 
Ostend,  156-158. 
Oxford,  54,  55. 

Paris,  186,  193,  249-267. 

Parthenon,  62,  63,  340,  341. 

Peter  the  Great,  144,  360,  361,  370, 

373,  374. 

Phoenix  Park,  Dublin,  89. 
Pilatus,  Mount,  236,  239,  241. 
Place  de  la  Concorde,  257,  258. 
Poet's  Corner,  34. 
Pompeii,  332-334. 
Portugal,  17,  298,  299,  336. 
Pressburg,  207. 
Pyrenees,  The,  273,  274. 

Queenstown,  83. 

Regent's  Park,  29,  30. 
Rhine  River,  149,  167-186,  197,  219, 
226,  239. 


402 


INDEX. 


Rhinefels,  179,  180. 

Rhone  River,  225,  226,  242,  275. 

Rigi,  236,  238,  241. 

Roland,  163,  181. 

Rolandseck,  181. 

Rome,  293,  301,  316-327,  332,  371. 

Rosenberg  Palace,  123,  127-129. 

Rosetta  Stone,  38. 

Rotten  Row,  London,  30,  31. 

Rotterdam,  153,  183. 

Roumania,  17,  198,  350,  357,  358. 

Rubens,  163,  165. 

Russia,  15-17,  205,  359-398. 

St.  Angelo,  Castle  of,  320,  324. 

St.  Bavon's,  Church  of,  Ghent,  146, 

147,  162. 

St.  Gothard,  170. 
St.  Isaac's  Cathedral,  367-369. 
St.  James'  Park,  29. 
St.  Mark's  Cathedral,  Venice,  313- 

315. 

St.  Paul's  Church,  25,  26,  171. 
St.  Peter's,  Rome,  277,  289,  317,  319, 

324-326,  354. 

St.  Petersburg,  361,  363-377. 
St.  Sophia,  354,  355. 
Scandinavia,  92. 

Schloss,  The,  Berlin,  188,  190-192. 
Scilly  Islands,  18. 
Scotland,  59-78. 
Scott,  Sir  Walter,  59,  60,  66,  67. 
Scott,  Sir  Walter,  Monument  of,  65, 

66. 

Scutari,  351,  355,  356. 
Seine,  River,  253,  267. 
Servia,  17,  198,  350,  357,  358. 
Seville,  282-290. 
Shakespeare,  25,  50-53. 
Sheffield,  48. 
Shetland  Islands,  16,  18. 
Sistine  Madonna,  194,  195. 
Smithfield,  25. 
Spain,  16,  17,  145,  278-297. 
Staffa,  76,  78,  91. 
Stirling  Castle,  67. 
Stockholm,  114-117,  121. 


Stonehenge,  56. 
Stornaway,  76. 
Strasburg,  171-173,  182. 
Strasburg  Cathedral,  171. 
Stratford-upon-Avon,  50-53. 
Stuart,  Mary,  63-65, 
Sweden,  17,  92,  113-119,  392. 
Swedenborg,  116. 
Switzerland,  17,  170,  225-249,  278. 

Tarn  O'Shanter,  74,  75. 
Tell,  William,  236,  239,  240. 
Temple,  The,  25. 
Thames  River,  22-24. 
Thorwaldsen,  122,  124,  127,  236. 
Thorwaldsen  Museum,  125,  126. 
Tivoli,  129-131. 
Tower  of  London,  25-27. 
Trafalgar  Square,  38. 
Trinity      Church,      Stratford-upon- 
Avon,  52,  53. 

Trollhatten  Falls,  117,  118. 
Tromsoe,  109,  110,  113. 
Trondhjem,  94,  102,  105-107. 
Tuileries  Gardens,  251,  255,  257. 
Turkey,  18,  349-357,  362. 
Tyrol,  The,  202,  213-218,  220. 

Unter  den  Linden,  188,  190. 
Upsala,  115. 
Utrecht,  135,  136. 

Vatican,  The,  319,  324-326. 
Vendome  Column,  258,  259. 
Venice,  304,  308-315. 
Versailles,  264-266. 
Vesuvius,  Mount,  327,  332. 
Vienna,  202-206. 
Volga  River,  360,  381,  384-386. 
Volksgarten,  Vienna,  203. 

Walcheren,  135. 
Warwickshire,  50. 
Waterloo,  63,  164,  167. 
Wellington,  Duke  of,  26,  89. 
Wener,  Lake,  118. 


INDEX. 


403 


West  End,  London,  27-38. 
Westminster  Abbey,  26,  32-36. 
Wetter,  Lake,  118. 
Whymper,  232-236. 
Windsor,  39. 
Winstanley,  57,  58. 
Winter  Palace,  364,  366,  371-374. 
Wordsworth,  48. 


York  Cathedral,  49,  289. 
Yorkshire,  49. 

Zaandam,  144,  145. 
Zealand,  Island  of,  120,  121,  1> 
Zealand,  Province  of,  134. 
Zermatt,  226-236. 
Zuyder  Zee,  143,  144. 
Zwinger,  The,  193,  194. 


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